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Upgrading a Batten Headed 455 originally built by Joe Mondello 20+ years ago

Upgrading a Batten Headed 455 originally built by Joe Mondello 20+ years ago

Old June 24th, 2018, 08:57 AM
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So, adding up the costs.....

looks like around $560
more cost to the build to stroke the crank .200 longer

this includes:
Additional crank grinding work $350


$25 more for eagle BBC 6.635 rods and pin bushings

$35 for Big Block Chevrolet sized Rod Bearings

Rod machine work on pin bushings and narrow small ends $150

$525 additional cost over other repairs and upgrades





Last edited by Battenrunner; June 24th, 2018 at 01:59 PM.
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Old June 24th, 2018, 09:08 AM
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The costs I am estimating for the stock stroke upgrades:



Crank grinding work to correct current tight clearances $150

New speed pro Cam bearings $20

Mill heads $200

Flow test heads and intake on heads on both runner types $160

Polydyne coat rod and main bearings $150

Ati balancer $400

Speedmaster sfi flexplate 2561226012 $130

Eagle 6.735 Oldsmobile rods $480

Clean and hone block ~$250-300

Balance assembly $250

Canton oil pan 15-502 and pickup 15-503 $430

Head gaskets .027 $180

$2800 total cost est.




Are the corteco .028 Head gaskets still available?? I canít find them for sale? 55661HG ?

Last edited by Battenrunner; June 24th, 2018 at 09:13 AM.
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Old June 24th, 2018, 03:00 PM
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Are the corteco .028 Head gaskets still available?? I can’t find them for sale? 55661HG ?
No as Corteco no longer exists, bought out by ROL who were bought out by Felpro. The Rocket Racing .028" head gaskets are also on back order, I must have bought the last pair.
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Old June 24th, 2018, 05:24 PM
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Cometic has a .027 and .030 head gasket.
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Old June 24th, 2018, 08:57 PM
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well.... crud. I was hoping to spend $60 on Corteco headgaskets instead of $190 on cometics......


Thank You both, yes, I knew that cometic has them, and I like Cometic gaskets, but they are $$$....


to get to my desired quench of .040, and the target compression ratio target of 10.5:1, would require the use of .027/.028 head gaskets

Looking closer at the possibility of the stroker setup now..... Since milling the heads might actually be $250 + to mill the sealing surface and the intake side of the heads and I have to make sure everything lines up with the Batten intake spacers and rail adapters as well. The proper amount of stroking the crank would get us the same 10.5:1 compression ratio that I am hoping for, without any head milling at all, and possibly a little extra stroke to get the piston to deck height at zero so I can run typical .040 gasket thickness.

Also, I am looking seriously at the PRW 2445541 SFI elastomer damper because it will accept factory 4 bolt pulley setups, where the ATI requires precision machine work to redrill the pulley for a 3 bolt pattern , and I also hope to use one of the serpentine belt setups that are made for the 4 bolt pattern on the damper.

I am also considering the PRW Platinum SFI flexplate, as it looks like a substantial upgrade over the pioneer/stock unit that we have. I also still like the all billet 4340 Speedmaster SFI flexplate, so that is up in the air for now.

Last edited by Battenrunner; June 24th, 2018 at 09:44 PM.
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Old June 25th, 2018, 10:17 PM
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Does anyone know approximately how much mallory "heavy metal" is usually required to internally balance one of these 455 Steel cranks?
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Old June 26th, 2018, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Does anyone know approximately how much mallory "heavy metal" is usually required to internally balance one of these 455 Steel cranks?
8-10 slugs, do yourself a favor and buy some pistons and set your bearing clearance and get this thing done while your still young enough to enjoy it.

Last edited by VORTECPRO; June 26th, 2018 at 04:28 AM.
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Old June 26th, 2018, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Also, I am looking seriously at the PRW 2445541 SFI elastomer damper because it will accept factory 4 bolt pulley setups, where the ATI requires precision machine work to redrill the pulley for a 3 bolt pattern , and I also hope to use one of the serpentine belt setups that are made for the 4 bolt pattern on the damper.
The "precision" part is ensuring the pulley pilots on the balancer (which it will). The bolt holes aren't that precise.

If you want a nice balancer that does have a stock 4 bolt pattern, the Pro-Race balancers have good feedback; they also can be adjusted for internal vs external balance:
https://shop.rocketracingshop.com/OL...FI-RR64276.htm
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Old June 26th, 2018, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 83hurstguy View Post
The "precision" part is ensuring the pulley pilots on the balancer (which it will). The bolt holes aren't that precise.

If you want a nice balancer that does have a stock 4 bolt pattern, the Pro-Race balancers have good feedback; they also can be adjusted for internal vs external balance:
https://shop.rocketracingshop.com/OL...FI-RR64276.htm
Is that the Australian made balancer?
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Old June 26th, 2018, 07:11 AM
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If it were my engine I would double check all machine work that was done. Did the block get main studs and a align hone or align bore?
Good luck with the build.
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Old June 26th, 2018, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by VORTECPRO View Post
8-10 slugs
Thats most likely because you cut .500 off the counterweights. They normally take 3-4 slugs total.
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Old June 26th, 2018, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi View Post

Thats most likely because you cut .500 off the counterweights. They normally take 3-4 slugs total.

What is the cost per slug in today's market?
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Old June 26th, 2018, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bernhard View Post
What is the cost per slug in today's market?
About $75.00 installed.
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Old June 26th, 2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi View Post

About $75.00 installed.
$75 is not cheep but its not over the top when talking performance engine costs.

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Old June 26th, 2018, 03:33 PM
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Odd cam bearing wear
Originally Posted by Bernhard View Post
If it were my engine I would double check all machine work that was done. Did the block get main studs and a align hone or align bore?
Good luck with the build.

Thank you all for the tips so far on the balance weights.

Still mulling this all over....



The block has main studs and straps on 2,3,and 4 and oil restrictors installed as well. Yes, I have built very precise engines before and I know how to use the measuring tools, so I have that going for us luckily....

now, I have to figure out what clearances to run for a street/strip engine. I am thinking .0025 rods/ .0035 mains, thoughts?

I need to read the build sheet when I can later, but I believe it was align bored and honed and the deck was squared as well as the cam journals honed.

also, the cam bearings have a very weird wear/burnishing pattern on them all from 7 oíclock to 4 oíclock .....

Maybe someone rotated the cam while it was dry, but it seems more like they degreed the cam while it was dry or assembled the engine and turned the cam over dry with valvespring forces on it dry.

We are going to replace these, but not quite sure with what yet...


We are going to have polydyne coat the rods and main bearings no matter whether we go stroker or not.

I personally met with Dave at Mile High and he seems very sharp and willing to do whatever I ask of him for stroke and/or more bearing clearance.

At at this point, I am at a dilemma. The Arias 23cc dished pistons came off the press fit pins on the Mondello rods just fine. So, we will probably have to re-use them, unless.... I am working on acquiring some other newer/lighter forged pistons in the background.....

I also just discovered that there is s brand new fuel station that has E85 only 2 miles from me......

my target compression was going to be 10.5:1 for non ethanol pump gas nearby, but this is really making me want much more compression......

That is E85 for $2.149 near Bandimere today 6/25/2018

Last edited by Battenrunner; June 26th, 2018 at 03:54 PM.
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Old June 26th, 2018, 04:03 PM
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To do the stroker setup will cost $500 minimum for machine work from Dave at Mile High crankshafts, not including Nitriding, which would add another $175.
To balance the crank would be pushing $500 for the balance ($190) and it only takes four pieces of Mallory at $75 ($300)....
That would be $1,000 in the crank..... plus machine work on 6.635 BBC rods...... possibly $250 or so more.

So, that is $1250+ dollars to try and make 21 more cubic inches..... Not sure it is worth it when adding things up.

Using a stroker crank would require grinding or machining the Big Block Chevy 6.635 rods to be narrower on the little end by .062 and the big ends will have to be narrowed as well to fit within the journal width and the bearings machined to match the rods.
I am thinking that because we want a chamfer on the outer sides of the rods, that maybe we only machine the inner parts of the rods and bearings to fit within the crank journal. Does anyone see any issues offhand with this?

Also, we would have to buy new small end rod bushings to have pressed in and honed for a .980 olds wrist pin.

For now, I am trying to get some numbers on the cost to machine the rods with these mods.


I hope to get the flow numbers tomorrow for the heads with and without the intake attached.

I am also checking on the cost of machining for the 2.125 valves..... or 2.18's and going to .311 stems on the intakes










Might be better off getting more airflow out of the heads (If they are weaksauce), going with Eagle Olds Rods, getting it balanced externally, having the crank ground for more clearance and milling the heads for more compression (and deciding how much to mill and if we are going to run E85 or not).


We will see what the head numbers show, and if we want to risk the E85 tune..... the injectors I have are large enough, and I have plenty of fuel volume and pressure available with my dual 044 pumps and swirl pot for delivery. I can up the pressure if the duty cycle required is more than what they can flow at 44psi. Because of our elevation, I don't think it will need that much E85 even....









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Old June 26th, 2018, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
To do the stroker setup will cost $500 minimum for machine work from Dave at Mile High crankshafts, not including Nitriding, does little to nothing for strength, just for wear. which would add another $175.
To balance the crank would be pushing $500 for the balance ($190) and it only takes four pieces of Mallory at $75 ($300)....
That would be $1,000 in the crank..... plus machine work on 6.635 BBC rods...... possibly $250 or so more.

So, that is $1250+ dollars to try and make 21 more cubic inches..... Not sure it is worth it when adding things up.

Using a stroker crank would require grinding or machining the Big Block Chevy 6.635 rods to be narrower on the little end by .062 and the big ends will have to be narrowed as well to fit within the journal width and the bearings machined to match the rods.
I am thinking that because we want a chamfer on the outer sides of the rods, that maybe we only machine the inner parts of the rods and bearings to fit within the crank journal. Does anyone see any issues offhand with this? It'll depend how the small end does or does not interfere with the piston pin boss.

I am also checking on the cost of machining for the 2.125 valves..... or 2.18's and going to .311 stems on the intakes. 2.18's probably won't fit with the existing 1.71 exhausts. Plus you'll need to make sure the seats will accept a valve that big.

Might be better off getting more airflow out of the heads (If they are weaksauce), going with Eagle Olds Rods, getting it balanced externally, having the crank ground for more clearance and milling the heads for more compression (and deciding how much to mill and if we are going to run E85 or not). I'd run E85 in a minute.

We will see what the head numbers show, and if we want to risk the E85 tune..... the injectors I have are large enough, and I have plenty of fuel volume and pressure available with my dual 044 pumps and swirl pot for delivery. I can up the pressure if the duty cycle required is more than what they can flow at 44psi. Because of our elevation, I don't think it will need that much E85 even....How much power do you think it will make?
Hope this helps.

Last edited by cutlassefi; June 26th, 2018 at 06:17 PM.
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Old June 26th, 2018, 09:43 PM
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Thank You CutlassEFI for the thoughts and E85 opinion. Do you know what kind of compression ratio and head airflow numbers would be required for a typical 550hp olds build? a 600hp build?


Tonight, Dad and I sat down and talked this over pretty extensively, and the budget and schedule has decided that we will be staying with the stock stroke length.

This may also allow us enough room to play some with the heads if the numbers aren't enough to hit our goal of 550hp crank horsepower at sea level, which would equate to about 450 crank horsepower here at 6,000 feet. Also, if the intake is really killing the flow, we may look seriously at doing a Victor and converting it to EFI.

I feel like there may be 50hp of potential in the heads/intake system with the increased intake valve size and Victor Intake. Since this is a fuel injected engine, and it will be high compression, I don't feel that the responsiveness will be hurt as bad as it would if it were a carb'd engine. What are your thoughts Cutlass EFI?

Depending on if we stay with the ARIAS 23cc dished pistons or my other source works out for a higher compression set at an awesome deal, this will determine if we switch pistons or not.

Also, if we switch to higher compression pistons, we won't have to mill the heads, and we will gain a lighter piston as well.

The decision to build a high compression engine is being mulled over. Apparently, we can make a 10.5:1 compression engine live on 91 octane gas here (there are two pumps with non-ethanol only .5 miles away from us), and E85 could potentially run as high as 14:1 in a max effort system. Theoretically, we probably wouldn't go over 12.5:1 with any combination.

Once we have the head airflow data (hopefully tomorrow or very soon), that should tell us where we should be at with power potential, and it won't be all bench racing at that time...
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Old June 27th, 2018, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Thank You CutlassEFI for the thoughts and E85 opinion. Do you know what kind of compression ratio and head airflow numbers would be required for a typical 550hp olds build? a 600hp build?


Tonight, Dad and I sat down and talked this over pretty extensively, and the budget and schedule has decided that we will be staying with the stock stroke length.

This may also allow us enough room to play some with the heads if the numbers aren't enough to hit our goal of 550hp crank horsepower at sea level, which would equate to about 450 crank horsepower here at 6,000 feet. Also, if the intake is really killing the flow, we may look seriously at doing a Victor and converting it to EFI.

I feel like there may be 50hp of potential in the heads/intake system with the increased intake valve size and Victor Intake. Since this is a fuel injected engine, and it will be high compression, I don't feel that the responsiveness will be hurt as bad as it would if it were a carb'd engine. What are your thoughts Cutlass EFI?

Depending on if we stay with the ARIAS 23cc dished pistons or my other source works out for a higher compression set at an awesome deal, this will determine if we switch pistons or not.

Also, if we switch to higher compression pistons, we won't have to mill the heads, and we will gain a lighter piston as well.

The decision to build a high compression engine is being mulled over. Apparently, we can make a 10.5:1 compression engine live on 91 octane gas here (there are two pumps with non-ethanol only .5 miles away from us), and E85 could potentially run as high as 14:1 in a max effort system. Theoretically, we probably wouldn't go over 12.5:1 with any combination.

Once we have the head airflow data (hopefully tomorrow or very soon), that should tell us where we should be at with power potential, and it won't be all bench racing at that time...
6000 feet= 25% HP loss. My dyno sits @ 6400 feet, 23.50 baro, Bandimere typically a 24.30 baro, A 650 STP corrected HP engine makes 460s-470s observed in the room HP depending on the time of year. A 650 HP engine runs 10.50s @ Bandimere in my 3720 pound car and 9.90 in close to sea level conditions. I have a dyno/drag test coming very soon of a 650 HP street engine in my 3720 pound car.


Past dyno/drag tests:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-p...drag-test.html


The last Olds 455 we did ran 119 MPH with 3.23 gears, Turbo 475. Unknown exact weight, but it was 1970 442 convertible loaded, in less than sea level conditions, showing over 500 observed HPh

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Old June 27th, 2018, 08:11 PM
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Thank you for that VORTECPRO! awesome run in the video!
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Old June 27th, 2018, 08:42 PM
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So...... I received a call from the cylinder head shop/ flowbench test operator today.....

Anyone want to guess the numbers on the Intake and exhausts before I post them up tomorrow night, when I actually go over and get the spreadsheet from him?

Here is a hint, the 2.055 intake valve is definitely a choke point for the numbers, but the exhaust flows pretty darn good.


More to come of the test results tomorrow afternoon/night.....
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Old June 29th, 2018, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Anyone want to guess the numbers on the Intake and exhausts before I post them up tomorrow night, when I actually go over and get the spreadsheet from him?..
270 on the intake, 210 on the exhaust, both at .700 lift.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 05:22 AM
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Getting warm.....

I am picking up the flow test sheet today to show the numbers with and without the intake.

I will post that later today.

There isnít enough clearance between the valves to go to anything much larger than a 2.07-2.08, so we arenít going to spend the money for the tiny gain that would give. Looks like an offset guide, rocker arm, etc. is the only way to increase the valve size and we canít do all that right now....

Head CC is 69CCís and piston dish is 23ccís and currently .013 down the hole with a .040 head gasket gets me 10.2 compression. If I go to .027 Cometic gaskets, that should get the quench to .040 and bump compression to 10.5:1, which I am told can run fine on 91 octane premium here in Denver. It would also run fine on E85 obviously, but because my Dad is afraid of committing to an E85-only compression ratio, we will probably stick with 10.5:1.

Dad asked me last night if we could do rear mount Turboís later on, or even a 150 Hp nitrous kit with 10.5:1. I told him with E85 or race gas, we could still do either one safely until block/bearing failure without a girdle.

looking at a custom Howard cams hyd roller grind with 235/241 @.050 .640/.603 lift 112LSA to get the cam up into the lift range where we can make use of the heads and also the 112LSA for boost or nitrous later. Our springs are good and plenty stout for that size cam, and we are double checking for coil bind setup height now with some new proper fitting retainers and +.050 locks and spring locators. Mondello had used some crap stock locks on the valves... and the retainers are a sloppy fit... these springs we have are 160lbs at 1.800 and 370lbs at 1.050, which is what Howard cams suggested.

Last edited by Battenrunner; June 29th, 2018 at 05:49 AM.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 06:34 AM
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Whos doing the flow work?
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Old June 29th, 2018, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by VORTECPRO View Post
Whos doing the flow work?
Dave Sarno of SCH in Arvada, he is really awesome and has very fair prices


http://schracingheads.net/index.html

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Old June 29th, 2018, 04:40 PM
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Here attached is the flow data for Ports on number 7 cylinder. He also tested Cylinder 3, and he is testing number 1 on Monday as well.
Attached Files
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Old June 29th, 2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Here attached is the flow data for Ports on number 7 cylinder. He also tested Cylinder 3, and he is testing number 1 on Monday as well.
Warm? Hell I was pretty damn close, 4 on the intake and 7 on the exhaust. Thatís within 2-3%. Didnít see anyone else do that! 😎
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Old June 29th, 2018, 06:04 PM
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Thanks for sharing your build.
If you are going to run restrictors you might want to upgrade to the screw in style V the pound in Mondello style.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi View Post

Warm? Hell I was pretty damn close, 4 on the intake and 7 on the exhaust. Thatís within 2-3%. Didnít see anyone else do that! 😎

that is why I had to tease you a little!!!
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Old June 29th, 2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bernhard View Post
Thanks for sharing your build.
If you are going to run restrictors you might want to upgrade to the screw in style V the pound in Mondello style.
Happy to do so, I hope this works out great. This will be the last Oldsmobile we ever get to build, so trying to make it count!

If my Mondello restrictors are still tight, should I go ahead and pull and replace them with the threaded ones?

is that a real failure point now as well? I guess I would need to thread the aluminum plugs to try and pull them out with a screw? Or is there another way? Maybe a wood screw of appropriate size...

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Old June 29th, 2018, 07:42 PM
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Has anyone seen a flow test of the Edelbrock Victor intake to see what numbers and runner to runner variation is?
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Old June 29th, 2018, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post


Happy to do so, I hope this works out great. This will be the last Oldsmobile we ever get to build, so trying to make it count!

If my Mondello restrictors are still tight, should I go ahead and pull and replace them with the threaded ones?

is that a real failure point now as well? I guess I would need to thread the aluminum plugs to try and pull them out with a screw? Or is there another way? Maybe a wood screw of appropriate size...
Your going to be cleaning the block so I think it would be a good idea to remove them for cleaning.
They also come in different sizes orifices depending on what you are running.
Like many things Oldsmobile there are different views on running restrictors
I'm not a fan of anything Mondello!
BTR wrote a how two book on Oldsmobile engines building. Rocket racing is another source of Oldsmobile engine building and parts.
There is also a Real Oldspower forum member named Milian that is also known for building big block Oldsmobiles.
Not taking anything away from others on this board or ROP just giving you a few more places to look for information.
Check out ROP engine build section as well.
Good luck with your build.

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Old June 29th, 2018, 09:59 PM
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Thank you Sir


I am wondering what size restrictors to use for the street and thinner/hotter oil....

I have been checking into others building practices, but it is so tough to find what numbers others use, as everything is treated as secretive and "black magic" and each builder has their own recipe...
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Old June 30th, 2018, 05:08 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Bernhard View Post
Your going to be cleaning the block so I think it would be a good idea to remove them for cleaning.
They also come in different sizes orifices depending on what you are running.
Like many things Oldsmobile there are different views on running restrictors
I'm not a fan of anything Mondello!
BTR wrote a how two book on Oldsmobile engines building. Rocket racing is another source of Oldsmobile engine building and parts.
There is also a Real Oldspower forum member named Milian that is also known for building big block Oldsmobiles.
Not taking anything away from others on this board or ROP just giving you a few more places to look for information.
Check out ROP engine build section as well.
Good luck with your build.
Thanks for pointing out ROP.........some very interesting reading over there for sure. I worked with Bill Travoto on my last Olds build.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/real...fi-t13676.html

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Old June 30th, 2018, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Thank you Sir
I am wondering what size restrictors to use for the street and thinner/hotter oil....
I have been checking into others building practices, but it is so tough to find what numbers others use, as everything is treated as secretive and "black magic" and each builder has their own recipe...
Donít use restrictors at all, use the back cut Durabond 06-B cam bearing installed at 3 oíclock when looking at the front of the block.
For main bearings use the federal Mogul 108M. Itís only a 5/8-3/4 groove instead of a full groove like the Clevite. Much better bearing..

Last edited by cutlassefi; June 30th, 2018 at 08:48 AM.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Battenrunner View Post
Thank you Sir


I am wondering what size restrictors to use for the street and thinner/hotter oil....

I have been checking into others building practices, but it is so tough to find what numbers others use, as everything is treated as secretive and "black magic" and each builder has their own recipe...
What ever recipe you use I would not mix and match clearances between builders.
There was a build on here were restrictors solved a oiling issue.
I'm not saying run or don't run restrictors that's your call.
Check out Milan's oiling mods on ROP as well as his builds.

Last edited by Bernhard; June 30th, 2018 at 08:45 AM.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 05:31 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi View Post

Donít use restrictors at all, use the back cut Durabond 06-B cam bearing installed at 3 oíclock when looking at the front of the block.
For main bearings use the federal Mogul 108M. Itís only a 5/8-3/4 groove instead of a full groove like the Clevite. Much better bearing..
do you see the full grooved clevite bearings as a real weak point with this much bearing diameter though?

I may may cut my own cam bearings on a lathe... I have some speed pro 683S cam bearings coming already....

So, turning the feed hole to 3 oíclock gives better oiling and effectively acts as the restrictor to the cam bearings if using the bearings with grooves on the rear for the oil circuit?

The ďblueprintedĒ Mondello oil pump wouldn't turn when I tried it, so I figured we better take it apart also and check it out. It had a little dent/ding on the gears, and the bottom plate had so much Indian head/shellac sealant on it that it had stuck the gears to the lower plate, and that crap was hard as a rock and tiny pieces broke off as I finally got the gears to turn, just one more thing to put crap through the oil circuit and ruin something...

We are working on pulling out the restrictors today, after working on cleaning and removing the hard black crud from the pistons and rings. Removed all the rings and cleaned each one and itís groove. I am going to check the ring gaps and open them up some, depending on where they are at, to allow some more heat from Nitrous or boost in the future.

I like to open the second ring up about .002 more than the top ring, to keep the top ring from unloading/fluttering, where Mondelloís blueprint sheet shows that he had the second ring tighter on this build originally.


For the heads, I am disappointed in the flow numbers on the intake side, and being at elevation, we need all we can get. I am thinking that maybe we can turn the exhaust valves smaller, as they are really sitting proud of the seats anyways, and try to stick a 2.125 or 2.15 intake valve in there... what is the minimum safe clearance recommended between valve heads in the chamber? .010? .020?

Last edited by Battenrunner; June 30th, 2018 at 05:40 PM.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 05:41 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Bernhard View Post
What ever recipe you use I would not mix and match clearances between builders.
There was a build on here were restrictors solved a oiling issue.
I'm not saying run or don't run restrictors that's your call.
Check out Milan's oiling mods on ROP as well as his builds.

understood and agreed! Thanks!
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Old June 30th, 2018, 06:56 PM
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"Check out Milan's oiling mods on ROP as well as his builds"


Great advice, get with the right people.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 08:17 PM
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I think a lot of builders run Durabond cam bearings.
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