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I have a BBc that "could" run this stuff. It was built with F.A.S.T. "STOCK APPEARING" in mind, but has headers. I spoke to a bunch of those who run that and got some tips, plus with the experience of friends running NHRA and MMPS Pro Stock classes, we did pretty good I think.FYI, mine is a 1969 ZL1 that will find it's way into a '69 Vette. Plan is to try and run 8.999 or better with pretty much the stock appearing rules but use headers and slicks.
Now not knowing much about Olds engines, I see this thing being stroke to the max, ported to the max heads, intake and ex manifolds. ONLY difference is the cost to do the engine goes WAY up as manifolds are usually in the $3000/$3500 range. I have seen a few on here that run in the high 10's with some nice parts, not maxed out and even flat tappet cams.
It's really not that hard to get these to run low 11's like that, just a lot of $$$$. For example, look at Stock Eliminator. Not take that ADD cubic inches,proller cams and porting to the max. An HONEST 600Hp will get you there.
I have a BBc that "could" run this stuff. It was built with F.A.S.T. "STOCK APPEARING" in mind, but has headers. I spoke to a bunch of those who run that and got some tips, plus with the experience of friends running NHRA and MMPS Pro Stock classes, we did pretty good I think.FYI, mine is a 1969 ZL1 that will find it's way into a '69 Vette. Plan is to try and run 8.999 or better with pretty much the stock appearing rules but use headers and slicks.
Now not knowing much about Olds engines, I see this thing being stroke to the max, ported to the max heads, intake and ex manifolds. ONLY difference is the cost to do the engine goes WAY up as manifolds are usually in the $3000/$3500 range. I have seen a few on here that run in the high 10's with some nice parts, not maxed out and even flat tappet cams.
It's really not that hard to get these to run low 11's like that, just a lot of $$$$. For example, look at Stock Eliminator. Not take that ADD cubic inches,proller cams and porting to the max. An HONEST 600Hp will get you there.
Bernhard wrote:
What makes this stock appearing build impressive is that its the bore restricted 400 G block. { If the information provided is correct? } Some have claimed to have gone .125 over on the G block giving it a 4" bore.
I would like to know more about the build as it is highly unconventional .
Bernhard wrote:
What makes this stock appearing build impressive is that its the bore restricted 400 G block. { If the information provided is correct? } Some have claimed to have gone .125 over on the G block giving it a 4" bore.
I would like to know more about the build as it is highly unconventional .
they can go +.140” if it’s good on the core shift. With a 4.5 stroke you’re talking 455.
11.5 is a full second slower than the quickest F.A.S.T. Small block car. They have work to do
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; Sep 25, 2023 at 04:05 PM.
I have a BBc that "could" run this stuff. It was built with F.A.S.T. "STOCK APPEARING" in mind, but has headers. I spoke to a bunch of those who run that and got some tips, plus with the experience of friends running NHRA and MMPS Pro Stock classes, we did pretty good I think.FYI, mine is a 1969 ZL1 that will find it's way into a '69 Vette. Plan is to try and run 8.999 or better with pretty much the stock appearing rules but use headers and slicks.
Now not knowing much about Olds engines, I see this thing being stroke to the max, ported to the max heads, intake and ex manifolds. ONLY difference is the cost to do the engine goes WAY up as manifolds are usually in the $3000/$3500 range. I have seen a few on here that run in the high 10's with some nice parts, not maxed out and even flat tappet cams.
It's really not that hard to get these to run low 11's like that, just a lot of $$$$. For example, look at Stock Eliminator. Not take that ADD cubic inches,proller cams and porting to the max. An HONEST 600Hp will get you there.
and the max compression you can stuff into it..minimum 15.5 or you leave power on the table
high first gear in the trans and not much rear gear to prevent breaking the tires loose off the line..you want to kill the TQ down low . power has to come on slow like a turbo car way after the 60’ and be pulling like a freight train by the 330” .
soft 1 to 2 shift and a harder 2 to 3 so it doesnt break the tires loose…more like a stock shifting tranny
and the max compression you can stuff into it..minimum 15.5 or you leave power on the table
high first gear in the trans and not much rear gear to prevent breaking the tires loose off the line..you want to kill the TQ down low . power has to come on slow like a turbo car way after the 60’ and be pulling like a freight train by the 330” .
soft 1 to 2 shift and a harder 2 to 3 so it doesnt break the tires loose…more like a stock shifting tranny
Bernhard wrote:
Could you archive 15.5 compression ratio with that bore stroke ratio?
The post says that the car twisted so bad that it caused issues with the column shift, resulting in a miss shift 1 to 2, going straight to 3 that resulted in a large rpm drop.
The post says that the car twisted so bad that it caused issues with the column shift, resulting in a miss shift 1 to 2, going straight to 3 that resulted in a large rpm drop.
If it was floor shift car 100%. Column shift car with the rod connected to the steering column and bolted to the firewall maybe?
was it build to compete in F.A.S.T.?
Information on the car and build is very limited and it was the first time out for the car. It's an unconventional build if it was built for F.A.S.T
When I think of F.A.S.T Oldsmobile build.
Going to have to mill an oil filler tube hole in the block.
Dale have you ever thought about doing a F.A.S.T build?
Last edited by Bernhard; Sep 27, 2023 at 07:12 PM.
Information on the car and build is very limited and it was the first time out for the car. It's an unconventional build if it was built for F.A.S.T
When I think of F.A.S.T Oldsmobile build.
Going to have to mill an oil filler tube hole in the block.
Dale have you ever thought about doing a F.A.S.T build?
yes..it’s past the thought stage. Been doing it off and on for a while but other builds keep slowing me down..I’ve got the body which will be a 69 H/O clone and will be able to switch back and forth from the big block class to small block 69 W31
it’s costly because it will be competitive. Stock block for each build. Big Block has billet caps&girdle , it will get this Moldex billet 4.850” crank, with a 4.200” bore for 538”. GRP al rods. Big comp 800” sr, offset cup crower lifters. Lots of welding on the D heads. The cast iron intake has been cut down in weight from 80 to about 40lbs…can’t show pics of that until it’s finished 😉 and closed back up.
yes..it’s past the thought stage. Been doing it off and on for a while but other builds keep slowing me down..I’ve got the body which will be a 69 H/O clone and will be able to switch back and forth from the big block class to small block 69 W31
it’s costly because it will be competitive. Stock block for each build. Big Block has billet caps&girdle , it will get this Moldex billet 4.850” crank, with a 4.200” bore for 538”. GRP al rods. Big comp 800” sr, offset cup crower lifters. Lots of welding on the D heads. The cast iron intake has been cut down in weight from 80 to about 40lbs…can’t show pics of that until it’s finished 😉 and closed back up.
yes..it’s past the thought stage. Been doing it off and on for a while but other builds keep slowing me down..I’ve got the body which will be a 69 H/O clone and will be able to switch back and forth from the big block class to small block 69 W31
it’s costly because it will be competitive. Stock block for each build. Big Block has billet caps&girdle , it will get this Moldex billet 4.850” crank, with a 4.200” bore for 538”. GRP al rods. Big comp 800” sr, offset cup crower lifters. Lots of welding on the D heads. The cast iron intake has been cut down in weight from 80 to about 40lbs…can’t show pics of that until it’s finished 😉 and closed back up.
Nice max effort F.A.S.T build!
What transmission are you going to run?
I assume the offset lifters allowed you to move the push-rod location in the heads to maximize cylinder head flow? Are the lifters custom or were you able to use an existing lifter?
I assume the offset lifters allowed you to move the push-rod location in the heads to maximize cylinder head flow? Are the lifters custom or were you able to use an existing lifter?
Yes on the reason..custom .180” offset high cup location
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; Sep 29, 2023 at 09:18 PM.
I have no idea if either of those trans would handle the TQ I plan on making without costing a fortune?
Send my any info you have on them behind a big TQ big block and I’ll read up on them
Bernhard wrote:
There are a few popular builders and many have spares in the trailer. I know they are expensive and reliability is ... . I have not seen a tech article on how to build one to live behind a stock or super stock car.
I agree the 400 is the most capable to handle the TQ of a Dale big block Oldsmobile coupled with the weight of a GM A body.
When cars had to run the transmission that the car was manufacture with in stock and super stock. They ran lightened factory parts to reduce rotating mass inside the transmission. I don't know what is available today for the turbo 400, as far as light weight internal parts
Last edited by Bernhard; Sep 30, 2023 at 03:12 PM.
