How about an Olds engine masters style competition?
I've been a machinist for 20 years I've always wanted to build performance engines. I have one Im about to start on, so I read everything posted I take in everything. All you guys have info that can be beneficial, being a machinist I'm very precise so even though this my first engine it'll be done right because of my work ethics. Just know I'm new to this I come here to gain knowledge from all you guys preferably the ones best at it. So to me all of you are valuable with tons of knowledge, some I'll consider, some I may not but the answer to your question in hear to learn all I can from you guys that build great power.
Last edited by Tederra; Aug 10, 2022 at 05:41 AM.
I've been a machinist for 20 years I've always wanted to build performance engines. I have one Im about to start on, so I read everything posted I take in everything. All you guys have info that can be beneficial, being a machinist I'm very precise so even though this my first engine it'll be done right because of my work ethics. Just know I'm new to this I come here to gain knowledge from all you guys preferably the ones best at it. So to me all of you are valuable with tons of knowledge, some I'll consider, some I may not but the answer to your question in hear to learn all I can from you guys that build great power.
NICE, me too. I got my first Lic in 1987 for Millwright. Well back and got Mold maker in the mid '90's. Even though I'm from Canada, I too worked on parts for the US Military. Parts where I had to be interviewed in Pittsburgh PA, and both Canadian and US lawyer there for me to sign my contract. It stated that if I falsified any info with the job, I WILL BE charged in US court. I was machine turbine wheels, housing and other related parts for the US nuclear sub program.
lol you're questioning my expertise, you'd drill them out then ream it then press new ones in. Put it like this I machine parts for the people that protect this very land we live on. I take it extremely serious I try make sure my parts dnt fail them. I just haven't built a engine before, but with specs I can machine anything.
I'm not questioning your expertise, just trying to see if I agree with your process. So you are a machinist just not an automotive machinist, thats a good thing. Do you have a big enough lathe to get a crank in? I always ask about valve guide procedures because I guess you could call me stickler when it comes to valve guides.
Tederra This is a good starting point you can then decided if you want to go in this direction or in an other. Bearing clearance is always a hot topic discussion.
There are other good Oldsmobile engine builders this one just chose to share his knowledge in a book.
FYI - I was able to digitally checkout the Trovato book on Hoopla. My local library card gives me free access to Hoopla. https://www.hoopladigital.com/title/11855626
Oldsmobile V-8 Engines
Oldsmobile V-8 Engines
Tederra This is a good starting point you can then decided if you want to go in this direction or in an other. Bearing clearance is always a hot topic discussion.
There are other good Oldsmobile engine builders this one just chose to share his knowledge in a book.
Last edited by Tederra; Aug 10, 2022 at 07:18 PM.
Thanks, I've read it have it on my kindle. I know some builders don't agree with his recommended tolerances I'm not skilled enough to comment on that. I do know better material and precision machining are more stable. I worked in batch heat treatment years before machining. Oldsmobile is a small base community with very few skillful builders. They're all good at what they do methods will vary but that's racing that's the beauty of competition. As a rookie that I am lol I watch and learn from them all my final decision will be a personal one based on the knowledge of all the great builders I know of, picking what method to use along the build I'm comfortable with that'll better serve the purpose of my build. Again to me all you guys are very valuable. And thanks for your passion and knowledge in the oldsmobile community.
depends on material b scale is used for softer material c scale harder material. When the material is bought from a supplier it should come with material makeup and specs. So with connecting rods the manufacturer should know these specs before production. Me personally wouldn't be grinding my connecting rods to see the hardness of them. A true test would not only testing the outside of material but also the middle which again should be done when bought from supplier.
depends on material b scale is used for softer material c scale harder material. When the material is bought from a supplier it should come with material makeup and specs. So with connecting rods the manufacturer should know these specs before production. Me personally wouldn't be grinding my connecting rods. to see the hardness of them. A true test would not only testing the outside of material but also the middle which again should be done when bought from supplier.
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; Aug 10, 2022 at 09:35 PM.
Thanks, I've read it have it on my kindle. I know some builders don't agree with his recommended tolerances I'm not skilled enough to comment on that. I do know better material and precision machining are more stable. I worked in batch heat treatment years before machining. Oldsmobile is a small base community with very few skillful builders. They're all good at what they do methods will vary but that's racing that's the beauty of competition. As a rookie that I am lol I watch and learn from them all my final decision will be a personal one based on the knowledge of all the great builders I know of, picking what method to use along the build I'm comfortable with that'll better serve the purpose of my build. Again to me all you guys are very valuable. And thanks for your passion and knowledge in the oldsmobile community.
Generally believed is that if its hardness is R"C" 30 and above, use the "C" scale. Hardnesses measured below R"C" 30 would require switching to R"B" for a more accurate hardness reading. I was referring to hardness checking stock OEM (from the factory) connecting rods. Since we can not get new replacements, I am curious what the hardness for a typical used 350 and 455 connecting rod is.
if you have a rockwell you can check it or know someone with one. It's a diamond tip that punches a tiny indention
lol you're questioning my expertise, you'd drill them out then ream it then press new ones in. Put it like this I machine parts for the people that protect this very land we live on. I take it extremely serious I try make sure my parts dnt fail them. I just haven't built a engine before, but with specs I can machine anything.
I don’t think you need help in that department…you need to read some engine theory books . A good one to start with is called the Horsepower Chain. There isn’t a single thing in it about machining …it’s all about how to make horsepower.
Last edited by Tederra; Aug 10, 2022 at 10:21 PM.
Trust me, I know R"C". Many years ago I machined punches and die pots that were R"C" 58-60. AISI A-2, A-9, O-1, D-2, D-5, M-2, T-15.
I am no longer working, so I don't have access to a Wilson Hardness tester.
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; Aug 10, 2022 at 10:28 PM.
I am not sure what the actual hardness of a connecting rods is. I'm sure they must be well over R"C" 30. But no one can quote a hardness number. If I recall correctly they are 1170 steel. I am thinking the connecting rods are about R"C" 45.
Trust me, I know R"C". Many years ago I machined punches and die pots that were R"C" 58-60. AISI A-2, A-9, O-1, D-2, D-5, M-2, T-15.
I am no longer working, so I don't have access to a Wilson Hardness tester.
Trust me, I know R"C". Many years ago I machined punches and die pots that were R"C" 58-60. AISI A-2, A-9, O-1, D-2, D-5, M-2, T-15.
I am no longer working, so I don't have access to a Wilson Hardness tester.
So you want specs from guys on here so you can machine it precisely?
I don’t think you need help in that department…you need to read some engine theory books . A good one to start with is called the Horsepower Chain. There isn’t a single thing in it about machining …it’s all about how to make horsepower.
I don’t think you need help in that department…you need to read some engine theory books . A good one to start with is called the Horsepower Chain. There isn’t a single thing in it about machining …it’s all about how to make horsepower.
Agreed you can't quote it why when you can test it, but based off what the part will be used for you can give a educational guess what range they may be between. I can bet you they're no where near 58-60 that's pretty hard I'd think for a rod under that amount of heat and stress. Again I only have a educational guess but 1170 material also has a higher carbon percentage that's 70% carbon. Last company I worked for used inconell for their dies. But they had 4500 and 6500 ton presses.
Inconel is some tough stuff to machine. Annealed is not bad, but heat treated is way different. I've machined Inconel 718, 750, and 901. What kind of dies were they using it for ? Forming dies ? Bending dies ?
I first bought a 425 but ended up finding a brand new crate 350DX long block. Ima do the Dx I have a 84 hurst olds ima put it in. My goal is 600hp or more on 93 octane street motor, so far I have a 4" stroke crank I purchase from Mark. I have the new edelbrock heads I'll get worked and I have the new LUNATI lightweight X BEAM RODS. I have the canton oil pan don't know what cam to get yet and I'm going to bore the lifters out to .937 and use a shaft mounted setup. I know some will say for that level it's not needed. But I know how addicted speed is so I want to build the bottom end stronger than my current goals as well as valve train, just incase I wanted to step it up a notch in the future. Again I'm new to this so I'm going off what I've researched hoping I'm going in the right direction. I like to do things right the first time take my time not be in such a rush ive been there done that before.
BTR turbo DX Build


