Home Porting Techniques
Here you can see the initial grinding to smooth the valve job into the bowl. I am not trying to open up the bowl, or teardrop the guide, or do any major port work at all. I have been doing this long enough that I'm not really worried about nicking the seat. It soesn't take too long with a nice sharp carbide.
Have you considered using thin wall bronze liners instead of stock iron replacement guides?
I use thin wall liners on everything..it’s much simpler , less work and you end up with a better guide that’s better for the valve stem.
It’s also a quick an easy way to use a smaller stem valve to reduce weight and increase flow, by putting a 5/16 or 8mm liner in the stock 11/32 guide for an 8mm valve.
either K-line or Rapid.
I use thin wall liners on everything..it’s much simpler , less work and you end up with a better guide that’s better for the valve stem.
It’s also a quick an easy way to use a smaller stem valve to reduce weight and increase flow, by putting a 5/16 or 8mm liner in the stock 11/32 guide for an 8mm valve.
either K-line or Rapid.
To address the practice of opening up the throat first, it's difficult to tell where the bottom angle of the valve job will be until you have performed the valve job. Especially if you're using oversized valves and opening up the throat. You can see from the pictures I have chosen a cutter that goes pretty far into the bowl. You can also see that the bowl is not concentric to the seat. This is very hard on the cutter. Basically there will be high spots and low spots as you are cutting. I used to do a secondary cut with a radius cutter, but that just takes more time.
On the first hole you run your valve job and leave it high .005, you then go in and cut the bowl where you want it, you then set the stop and cut the other 3 bowls out, you then you recut the first seat set height, then cut the rest of the seats, thats the best way to do it. While we're on this, rebuilder cast valve guides is not the best way to do this, CHE bronze guides honed to exact size is the best way to do the job. And on that Serdi you better have a perfect round, sized, strait guide and a perfectly sized pilot or you have a less than desirable seat.
Have you considered using thin wall bronze liners instead of stock iron replacement guides?
I use thin wall liners on everything..it’s much simpler , less work and you end up with a better guide that’s better for the valve stem.
It’s also a quick an easy way to use a smaller stem valve to reduce weight and increase flow, by putting a 5/16 or 8mm liner in the stock 11/32 guide for an 8mm valve.
either K-line or Rapid.
I use thin wall liners on everything..it’s much simpler , less work and you end up with a better guide that’s better for the valve stem.
It’s also a quick an easy way to use a smaller stem valve to reduce weight and increase flow, by putting a 5/16 or 8mm liner in the stock 11/32 guide for an 8mm valve.
either K-line or Rapid.
yep…I haven’t used an iron guide since the 90’s on anything.
the thin wall bronze liners also transfers heat better than iron , which is crucial for pulling heat out of the ex valve….that’s where the majority of heat transfer takes place
if anyone is using positive type seals with iron guides on the exhaust in a performance app, they’re taking a chance..unless they up the clearance by another . 001+
the thin wall bronze liners also transfers heat better than iron , which is crucial for pulling heat out of the ex valve….that’s where the majority of heat transfer takes place
if anyone is using positive type seals with iron guides on the exhaust in a performance app, they’re taking a chance..unless they up the clearance by another . 001+
yep…I haven’t used an iron guide since the 90’s on anything.
the thin wall bronze liners also transfers heat better than iron , which is crucial for pulling heat out of the ex valve….that’s where the majority of heat transfer takes place
if anyone is using positive type seals with iron guides on the exhaust in a performance app, they’re taking a chance..unless they up the clearance by another . 001+
the thin wall bronze liners also transfers heat better than iron , which is crucial for pulling heat out of the ex valve….that’s where the majority of heat transfer takes place
if anyone is using positive type seals with iron guides on the exhaust in a performance app, they’re taking a chance..unless they up the clearance by another . 001+
an iron guide can have a twist or bend in it , the ball will just follow that contour and in turn, push out the thin wall liner to that shape …as opposed to a hone which will insure the new liner is straight top to bottom.
so you just have to make sure the old iron guide is reamed straight and true to begin with
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