When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi Gang, Went to the track last Sunday June 4th first time this year, the car starved for fuel at about the 1000 ft mark so we were done for the day, I didn't know that this happened until we got the car home, Well looks like the drivers side motor mount let loose, when we got home pulled it in the garage i could see that the power steering cap pushed up on the hood and left a small dimple on the Outside of the hood, iam showing these 2 pictures could somebody out there tell me ways to hold down the motor with a cable or something of that nature so this wont happen again and if it does at least it wont wreck my hood, there hard to find, one person told me not to use solid ones cuz of vibration, the motor is new 455 dyno 414 hp 520 lbs trq it is in a 1967 olds 442 track pack, Thanks guys john.....................
oldscutlass do you know where i could pick this solid one you are talking about on line, Ebay ?? If i did this would i still need a cable or is the solid mount good enough, thanks john....
Thank you so much Eric for putting the time in and finding out this information for me i really appreciate it, you have helped me out 2 times in a real short period of time, I feel better now knowing i have a way to go with this now, Also setting me straight on the vented gas tank question that i had, john..............
Thank you so much Eric for putting the time in and finding out this information for me i really appreciate it, you have helped me out 2 times in a real short period of time, I feel better now knowing i have a way to go with this now, Also setting me straight on the vented gas tank question that i had, john..............
No problem, just a note that I would still use a secondary cable for racing.
A buddy of mine way back in high school built a RIPPING Mopar. He used solid motor mounts on both sides, and put one more stay on it. He welded a chain link to the engine cross bar, and ran a 3/8" chain between the cross bar and the driver's side head. It eventually stretched the chain and warped the mounts, but he could wheely that Bad SumBitch something fierce!
My first attempt was a tab off of a head stud , cable attached to tab, cable to turnbuckle, turnbuckle to cable to frame. It worked but I did end up switching to solid motor mounts later. The turnbuckle allowed me to adjust the slack out. This was when I was a broke Airman, so my roommate and I made the motor mounts by removing the rubber on my stock worn out ones and welding a spacer in. Good luck.
wr1970 That's what iam going to do with a back up cable just in case, we have only had 3 runs with the car trying to get this flat spot out of it when it leaves the line, on one of my posts on here you can see the car leave the line and what it does, we were at the track last Sunday this drag racer came up and said that i only need 1 inline filter from the fuel pump forward and to take out the one in the carburetor it is a restriction he said that's a good chance this is your problem, still trying to get the bugs out of it, 13.09 at 103 13.03 at 104 12.98 at 105.00
Last edited by john mann; Jun 7, 2023 at 08:21 AM.
I just took the flat spot transition from idle to on the main jet on mine out last weekend. Not saying it is the same as yours but just info. Mine is a new build including new carb, so I am literally at ground zero. Anyway drilling the primary squirters out from 31 to 35 and changing the pump cam to the #2 position solved mine.
wr1970 Tha'ts what iam going to do with a back up cable just in case, we have only had 3 runs with the car trying to get this flat spot out of it when it leaves the line, on one of my posts on here you can see the car leave the line and what it does, we were at the track last Sunday this drag racer came up and said that i only need i inline filter from the fuel pump forward and to take out the one in the carburetor it is a restriction he said that's a good chance this is your problem, still trying to get the bugs out of it, 13.09 at 103 13.01 at 104 12.98 at 105.00
Cool make sure you don't have throttle cable slack any slack is bad. Make sure your floats are in the middle of you have a sight glass. This can cause a bog. Good luck.
Disregard sight glass looks like you have a stock carb. You have plenty left once you get the bugs out.
I just took the flat spot transition from idle to on the main jet on mine out last weekend. Not saying it is the same as yours but just info. Mine is a new build including new carb, so I am literally at ground zero. Anyway drilling the primary squirters out from 31 to 35 and changing the pump cam to the #2 position solved mine.
Back in the 1970s I tried a cable but it stretched, so did chain. I have been making solid mounts out of 1/4" plate since then. Spacing is different on different years and I don't know if anyone makes them commercially for 1966-7.
Back in the 1970s I tried a cable but it stretched, so did chain. I have been making solid mounts out of 1/4" plate since then. Spacing is different on different years and I don't know if anyone makes them commercially for 1966-7.
wr1970 That's what iam going to do with a back up cable just in case, we have only had 3 runs with the car trying to get this flat spot out of it when it leaves the line, on one of my posts on here you can see the car leave the line and what it does, we were at the track last Sunday this drag racer came up and said that i only need 1 inline filter from the fuel pump forward and to take out the one in the carburetor it is a restriction he said that's a good chance this is your problem, still trying to get the bugs out of it, 13.09 at 103 13.03 at 104 12.98 at 105.00
John, is that the same flat spot you had last summer ?
Sunday was pretty hot. Were you running a "cool can" to cool the fuel lines ? Are you running an electric fuel pump ? What carburetor are you using ?
Ralf it took some doings we have a inline filter after the fuel pump and 1 in the inlet, that one with the spring in it, it was twisted and squashed in there, I could barley blow thru the inlet with it in there when i took it off the carb, this racer there told me to disregard that one in the carb and just use my inline filter from the fuel pump to the carb, now that our motor mount need to be replaced plus i would like to hook up either a turnbuckle or cable strap, not sure yet, got lots of people helping me out here with there replies i really appreciate all there help !! john.....
Back in the 1970s I tried a cable but it stretched, so did chain. I have been making solid mounts out of 1/4" plate since then. Spacing is different on different years and I don't know if anyone makes them commercially for 1966-7.
I will take a picture of my mounts both are solid.
Bernhard beat me to it; I was trying to locate a pic of that motor mount which appears to be the best solution for a driver's side mount for an Olds that sees more than just race car duty.
We used to bolt a short piece of chain to the block and the frame. Cheap, worked well and no vibration issues with the solid mount. We used turn buckles also.
WOW !!! Thanks to all above that has chimed in, even at the track there's really only 1 or 2 olds guys, When we were just there i was the only olds guy so its hard to get info when there's not many people around to give you there option on issues that you may have like myself.. Thanks to you also joe p. I am glad all you great people are on this site, thanks again to everybody, john... I will keep every body posted when we can finally get all these bugs out of the car and start getting some good passes at the track !!!
Last edited by john mann; Jun 9, 2023 at 06:43 PM.
Torn up engine mounts were a common thing for me when I raced my car every weekend!
Years ago I fabricated a metal strap the used one of the steering gearbox bolts, wrapped around the frame, and used a turnbuckle from that metal strap to a bolt threaded into the head.
About 10 years ago I put solid mounts in the car and never looked back. I didn’t notice any vibration or roughness. I have no doubt there is an increase, I just can’t feel it.
If you do use solid mounts, do NOT use a solid transmission mount! No matter how stiff you think the frame is, there will always be some flex. If the engine and trans can’t move with the chassis flex, something has to give. The next weak point is the transmission case, resulting in a broken bellhousing. Seen it many times.
