Painting over fiberglass/gelcoat 101 questions.
#1
Painting over fiberglass/gelcoat 101 questions.
First off, I've never painted anything, so excuse my ignorance.
I've got a not too great fiiting cowl hood on the car below. It has some repairs and/or was sanded through the gelcoat. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it but I want to get a hood on the car to drive it. So I figured just paint it flat black for now. My questions:
-Do I need some bondo over the bare fiberglass spots before I prime?
-Can I then just block it, prime with high build primer, the just apply auto parts store rattle can flat black?
-Is there any reason to use a low gloss clear coat over that? (if it's even available in a spray can).
-If I want to have the hood sprayed to match the car later, can I just remove it and apply a stripper without making a huge mess?
Thanks.
DSCN0113.jpg
I've got a not too great fiiting cowl hood on the car below. It has some repairs and/or was sanded through the gelcoat. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it but I want to get a hood on the car to drive it. So I figured just paint it flat black for now. My questions:
-Do I need some bondo over the bare fiberglass spots before I prime?
-Can I then just block it, prime with high build primer, the just apply auto parts store rattle can flat black?
-Is there any reason to use a low gloss clear coat over that? (if it's even available in a spray can).
-If I want to have the hood sprayed to match the car later, can I just remove it and apply a stripper without making a huge mess?
Thanks.
DSCN0113.jpg
#2
I'd be going to a wholesale paint supply store, and asking those questions.
I believe you need a seperate sealer for the fiberglass, before the primer.
The store should also be able to mix the correct color, and put it in spray cans, too!
Personally, I'd spray it gloss black, to show the bad spots, sand it by hand, with a board until dead straight, seal, sand, prime, sand, and hit it with the correct color and clear.
I believe you need a seperate sealer for the fiberglass, before the primer.
The store should also be able to mix the correct color, and put it in spray cans, too!
Personally, I'd spray it gloss black, to show the bad spots, sand it by hand, with a board until dead straight, seal, sand, prime, sand, and hit it with the correct color and clear.
#3
looks to be the paint on the car is in really good shape, a thought might be to head down to the local paint shop/autobody and ask them how much to spray the hood for you? maybe you could drop it off to them save all that taping etc, might be worth it in the long run...
#4
X2. I agree with that last statement. If you are not familiar with painting and understand what these paint materials cost, you may be wise to let a local shop handle this for you. You have a nice looking car so let someone complete it and paint that hood correctly. As was mentioned, they can probably paint it to match the rest of the car and their work should come with a guarantee. You may also find the price from the shop to do it may be the similar to what you might spend for quality materials and if you goof it up, you get to spend more money on materials. As a side note, don't use any rattle can auto store primers as it will need to be removed before a proper job can be done. As for stripper and fiberglass, again, you need to know what you are doing. Get that engine back in there and drive it to a professional shop, you'll be happier in the long run.
#5
There's a whole deal in the chassis service manual sheet metal section on OAI hood repair. It says nothing about a seperate fiberglass sealer?
Your technique sounds okay as long as the fiberglass is structurally sound.
If there are thin areas and scratches that need filled a 2 part glazing putty may work better than bondo.
I'd prime it with black 2 part epoxy if you want that color for now, you can build it and block it. Wipe it down with prep-sol and before it evaporates the surface will shine like black paint and you'll see any flaws.
All the body shop would have to do is scuff and shoot it when you're ready for paint , no need to strip or seal the hood if there's nothing incompatible with the new finishes on it like lacquer.
Your technique sounds okay as long as the fiberglass is structurally sound.
If there are thin areas and scratches that need filled a 2 part glazing putty may work better than bondo.
I'd prime it with black 2 part epoxy if you want that color for now, you can build it and block it. Wipe it down with prep-sol and before it evaporates the surface will shine like black paint and you'll see any flaws.
All the body shop would have to do is scuff and shoot it when you're ready for paint , no need to strip or seal the hood if there's nothing incompatible with the new finishes on it like lacquer.
#6
It's got areas of glass , some kind of filler, and gelcoat. I hear a sealer is required over different exposed areas. Guess I'll just decide to keep it, drop it off at a shop and have them do it.
#7
I asked at the body shop last night, and was told you have to seal the raw f/glass with resin, let it cure, and form it by sanding. Raw glass won't even take primer!
He's done a lot of 'vettes, and went to a G.M. school to earn all the ins + outs.
Glad your leaving it to the pros, though!
He's done a lot of 'vettes, and went to a G.M. school to earn all the ins + outs.
Glad your leaving it to the pros, though!
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