Has anyone had there car painted base,clear in code 58 burnished gold lately? Dupont couldn’t get the color even close, PPG still trying , just curious if anyone had a successful mix and who did it?

 

Check out BASF (R-M, Glasurit) they had an excellent match i used quite a few years ago.

 

Following.

 

That’s strange that those two companies couldn’t match it. I use Axalta in my shop(DuPont hasn’t made paint in over a decade) and I can match anything to within a blendable standard. Meaning I could paint your fender and blend into the door and have a match that is not detectable. That said, there is no such thing as a 100% perfect color match. Especially when you’re trying to match a type of material that, for all intents and purposes, no longer exists.

Is it a shop trying to match it or a paint distributor? Did they camera scan something to match or did they just pull the color code and mix it that way? If I couldn’t get an acceptable match from the formula, I would polish up a spot in one of the jambs and camera scan it. If that still didn’t get me close enough, I could tint it by eye. Any painter worth his salt should be able to do that regardless of which paint line he sprays(paint store employees not so much). That’s if you’re trying to match the existing color. This may not be the best method though since those older paints like lacquer and enamel were not very UV stable, so they faded and discolored even in places that don’t get direct sunlight. I would wager that if you had some of the original paint and compared it to the existing, that wouldn’t match either. There are a lot of variables needing to be considered in order to properly answer your question, but ultimately I suspect it’s not about the paint, you just haven’t found the right painter/mixer yet.

When my shop was spraying Sherwin Williams, I could give them a gas cap or something with the color I needed and they would send it back with a proper color match. They had guys who were properly trained to tint paint by eye as a painter would be. Nowadays I don’t know if that’s still the case.

 

they re taking the trunk to the paint supplier, he uses the term DuPont out of old habit, it’s the new owner,( axalta) both spray outs were not close with using old code and camera scanning. I didn’t say PPG couldn’t, said they were trying to work it to match the original lacquer on the underside of the trunk. Still yet to be determined. Hopefully they are successful. There is a Sherwin Williams store in town, I noticed on the cross reference of a paint chart it gives a Sherwin code. The underside of the trunk is perfect, so hopefully we will get success soon. Just curious if someone had done this recently and who the supplier was.

 

this chart shows rm, Sherwin and DuPont

 

thanks, will have him check it out if ppg isn’t successful

 

I just finished a 70 W31 in this color, I didn't have to worry about blending to any original color thou, but it did appear to match the areas of the car where the paint was not faded. The only manufacturer we could get the mix code from was Omni, it was not avaliable in the PPG line.

 

Something to remember is, with base/clear you may be able to get an excellent color match on the base coat, but formulas for clear have changed over the years and getting the tint for it right may be problematic. Also, as always, metallics are more of a headache than solid colors.

 

This is a bit of a stretch. The old clears sometimes had a yellowish or golden hue to them, but it was typically only noticeable in the can. It was sometimes enough to affect a panel color match on white and maybe a handful of other very light colors, but would be negligible on a color like this. Given the fact that these cars were not clear coated from the factory and that modern urethanes are crystal clear and have absolutely no affect on the color match, type of clear is certainly not a factor in the OPs dilemma.

 

Thanks, that looks good. How many coats of base were needed using omni?

 

I'm just speaking from personal experience. In the early '90s I acquired a maroon '68 Camaro SS. In the later '90s I decided to paint it its original color, Sequoia Green (an inky dark metallic green) in PPG base/clear. Around 2004, the car took a small parking lot hit in the driver's side rear quarter, and there were some imperfections on the tail panel and PS quarter I wanted to deal with at the same time as part of the quarter repair.

Long story short, I decided to paint the entire back half of the car. Paint guy matched carefully with a spectroscope, showed me the sample and I agreed it was a good match. Lo and behold, when the work was finished the back-half was much brighter and the metallic was much less subtle.

Paint guy blamed it on a new formulation of clear.

It wasn't actually all that obvious but it bugged me enough that I later sold ths Camaro and came back to Oldsmobile.

 

It did not take color very quickly, that was 5 coats of color, and that was over PPG's primer sealer, the last two coats were fan coats to obtain a very consistent color, the metallic and color wanted to tiger stripe if you didn't finish with the fan coats.

 

Well that makes more sense. Typical of a painter to sell you a line of bullshit rather than take accountability for his work. I can 1,000% assure you, it was not the clear that made the color look different. We always say in the paint business that “there’s no such thing as a perfect color match. A good painter just creates the illusion of a perfect color match”. With basecoat/clearcoat paints this is achieved by blending the basecoat adjacent to the repair, then clear coating the blend panel. This prevents the naked eye from being able to tell where the old paint stops and the new starts.

 

Ppg was able to give a good match finally. Its a touch more gold than the factory burnished gold. Very very close. Using camera and code thats the closest they could get. Will
look fantastic

 

This is PPG shop line, only line they could get the code correct, takes about 6 coats of color as the paint is thin. End result was great.