After 47 years the old brake booster/master cylinder is being replaced with a nice shiny new one, should I clear coat it to preserve the new look?

 

I would.

I use a wire brush to clean them first. Then wipe it down with thinner and use a good quality catalyzed clear or the brake fluid will eat it.

 

What clear do you use?

 

I use PPGs DCU2021

 

It's my understanding that brake fluid will eat through pretty much anything. If that PPG clear coat can resist brake fluid then that's awesome!

 

I have had good luck with high temp engine clear coat for most applications...

 

I use Krylon clear coat.

 

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-gra...sol-13-oz.html


Maybe check this out

 

I used the Eastwood brake grey. It came out really nice looking and doesn't look like silver spray paint it looks more like the original finish, I haven't spilled any brake fluid on it so I can't comment on that, but it does look nice. I'll try to get a pic of it.

 

You must always use clear coat in these kinds of situations!

 

I don't know about 67 Olds, but most GM masters were black as far as I know.

 

I've never seen a black one unless someone painted it. I think they were all installed natural finish and rusted shortly there after

 

Been my experience that brake fluid will eventually melt through most all finishes, especially single stage unhardened products like spray paint bombs.The issue is why are your parts getting wet with brake fluid. If nothing is leaking there should be no problem... Tedd

 

The Toronado boosters in 1967 were black.

 

I use Cast Blast on my cast iron manifolds. I sold my 70 Cutlass W-31 in 1999 and bought it back 2 yrs. ago and manifolds look just like the day I painted them. Should work on master cyl. too.

 

Friend of mine (professional mechanic with show winning car) suggested WD40. Give it a spray, wipe off the excess, touch up every once in a while.


I haven't tried it yet myself but plan to when I install the new master cylinder in my '70 this winter. Anybody tried this?

 

I have heard many people using WD40 as well as Europeans using kerosene on the underneath of their cars as protection from corrosion.

I myself used a high temp powder coat on my master cylinder, can't wait to install it.

 

Cast blast here too, I’ve had MC look perfect for 5-7 years with this stuff. I’ve mostly used silicone dot5 fluid in my nice cars though.

Dot3 will ruin whatever it touches......

 

Lots of good info in this thread.

My rolling restoration has developed some modest light rust in places after 4 years and 20k miles of driving and a couple dozen washes, and knowing well how rust operates, I do not want rust intruding on any paint or glass or mechanical areas!

I love kerosene for lamps and cleaning certain parts but it's too light and too smelly for serious corrosion protection. WD40 is out of the question.

The reason I'm driving a solid frame 1976 car and not a rusted hulk is Asphalt undercoating that can shed rocks and gravel while sealing out salt.

Short of that, 30W motor oil is also good for halting rust in problem areas like chrome bumpers, trunks, and hard to reach underbody areas.

I am also spraying down trouble areas with Kroil. It smells sweet and far less offensive than most petroleum products. If you make sure the car is thoroughly dry, this oil seeps into dark, rusty corners like nobody's business.

Short of full restoration, sometimes all you can do is try to halt rust and Kroil is a better move to preserve originality than spray paint in many bare metal and netherworld regions of the car!

I may actually have to go around the roof line where the vinyl top meets the metal. This is because I can feel a little raised rust around the edges of my vinyl top and chrome window drip sills now 4 years after a full professional replacement. I fear the glass rusting out and I know only a good *creeping oil* and keeping the car out of the rain and the carwash has a chance to slow the rust short of full restoration.

If you know there is rust in the cracks and crevices that you can't get at to sand or paint, I advise spraying this expensive product on it, even though it is not a traditional rust preventative. Any wire brushing you do is going to go a along way. I am not kidding when I say I've used brass brushes for well over 50 hours on my 6,020 lb car. My car has seen at least half a can of this stuff!



I also like Permatex for serious undercoating areas. This is the Asphalt undercoating, not the rubberized version. Kroil is penetrating oil for cracks and crevices and places where you should not use awful smelling stuff -> like around the passenger compartment and trunk!