I'm not sure how to answer posts suggesting "highway robbery " among other things. I'd welcome you to come work for me for a couple of weeks and get a feel for the cost of labor, overhead, materials and how much profit is made for the work we do. Then I would believe you know what you are talking about. Otherwise it comes off as bashing some very hard working people in the body business. ~BOB

 

 

My simple re paint labor wise was about 130 hrs. Plus 1600 for parts, door skins, donor door, fiberglass parts. Then about 2500 for materials using economy stuff. At a labor rate of 50 to 70 do the math. And my car has an alreadt good canvas . I have 20 hrs alone on the door skins between putting them on , fitting and what not.

 

ya know i gotta say i have respect for guys that can do body work everyday for a living.i have to be in the zone to do it.when i am i will go hog wild but then it's like i hit a wall and say to hell with it.i just have to get away from it.got into my 66 last feb pulled trunk floor and both left and 1 right wheelhouse got em in and fit and screwed in place and i had enough and it sat pretty much untouched til august-sept.then got busy at work an didn't get back to it til about a month ago.so i'm back at it and hopefully get it all sealed and in primer before the wall comes calling.speaking of "the wall" think i will go crank up the turntable and relax with some beers and some floyd!

 

I haven't been on the site for a while and this thread caught my eye even though it is mostly old. Prices are all over the map because the quality is all over the map also. Their are so many details that go into the high end stuff to ensure it looks the same in 20 years.

Any of the higher end paint jobs aren't going to go over someone else's bodywork or primer. Every part will be stripped to bare metal and proper techniques used. Parts aren't going to be sanded and then just blown off with an air gun and shot with paint. Lots of extra prep involved and their won't be overspray under the wheel wells or frame.

We can't compete with a bodyshop for speed and they can't compete with a resto shop for quality. If they try they will be broke and if we try for their speed we will be out of work because our quality/detail isn't going to be there.

Makes me smile to think of some of the comments about getting a frame off for 30k. Even in 2013 money their wasn't a lot of people waiting around to work for nothing.

 

Interesting thread. I painted my 71 98 for about $1500 a few years ago. The best way to do body work is to take an auto body course in the evenings and do the work yourself. I painted my car with a single stage paint I got from a professional auto body shop. It looks pretty darn good (even though I would never be invited to Pebble Beach).

 

I'll add my $.02. Cost will also be driven by region. Some areas just cost more to do business. I had mine sprayed last summer. Minimal body work. Only rust was in the lower front fenders. That was cut out & new metal welded in. The heels of the fenders were in good shape. Car was taken to bare metal & most chrome removed. Vinyl top stayed on. Jams weren't painted because all that was original & in good shape. Stripes were painted on. I'd rather not say what I paid but I feel I was treated fairly. Bets way to save $$ at the body shop is start with the cleanest car you can find.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/158535685@N07/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/158535685@N07/, on Flickr

Side stripes were done later
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/158535685@N07/, on Flickr

 

Droptopron, thanks for sharing. This helps me explain the possible differences in pricing. Your car looks like it came out great. But here is a possible difference that adds up to more labor.

That fender patch doesn't appear to be completely seam welded. If filler is applied over it then it absorbs moisture and pushes out bubbles under the finish. It would be one winter if it was a winter car. It will last longer since it won't be driven in salt but it can absorb moisture from the backside. A resto shop doing that job would pull the fender, fully seam weld/shrink disc/metal finish, blast the backside, pour epoxy into the back brace until it runs out all over the place.

This is where the costs add up. All the extra details take man hours.

I have no skin in this game. I restore mostly pre-war and brass stuff but I'm doing a 68'442 for my dad on the side. Haven't done a muscle car in at least a decade. I just wanted to educate some that a paint job that costs 30k then it might not be highway robbery but it might be all the hidden details and rotten underneath. The 5k for materials is usually what I run into also on a top to bottom job.

I don't estimate jobs. It's a good way to close shop. To many variables that we can't afford to eat and keep the quality as high as possible. Their is a huge spectrum of paint shops and a shop ripping people off won't be around long in todays world.

 

[QUOTE=Brad J.;1093241]Droptopron, thanks for sharing. This helps me explain the possible differences in pricing. Your car looks like it came out great. But here is a possible difference that adds up to more labor.

That fender patch doesn't appear to be completely seam welded. If filler is applied over it then it absorbs moisture and pushes out bubbles under the finish. It would be one winter if it was a winter car. It will last longer since it won't be driven in salt but it can absorb moisture from the backside. A resto shop doing that job would pull the fender, fully seam weld/shrink disc/metal finish, blast the backside, pour epoxy into the back brace until it runs out all over the place.

This is where the costs add up. All the extra details take man hours.

I have no skin in this game. I restore mostly pre-war and brass stuff but I'm doing a 68'442 for my dad on the side. Haven't done a muscle car in at least a decade. I just wanted to educate some that a paint job that costs 30k then it might not be highway robbery but it might be all the hidden details and rotten underneath. The 5k for materials is usually what I run into also on a top to bottom job.

I don't estimate jobs. It's a good way to close shop. To many variables that we can't afford to eat and keep the quality as high as possible. Their is a huge spectrum of paint shops and a shop ripping people off won't be around long in todays world.


I agree with you post.
One of our top shops have a two year wait list.
30K Can does not include metal work!

 

What I have found is the old saying "you get what you pay for.." is more true here than anything. I originally located a budget shop to do my car for $10k all in. After a nightmare experience I decided to move it to a top of the line shop where it will cost me 3x's that. But, believe me it is well worth it to have a highly experienced shop to do your car. Also, when comparing a $10k versus $30k job up close it is night and day. Everything is gapped, smooth and without any imperfections.

Sean

 

The body, floors and trunk on this 64 F-85 Post Car was about gone. Brought in from New Mexico rust free from fellow Club member "Run to Rund" both doors, left front fender radiator core and the section between the tail lights on the 64 F-85. The rest was metal patch pieces as needed. I replaced the rear deck, floor and trunk braces, floor and trunk pans myself. I agree with a lot of guys, you get what you pay for, cant afford it WAIT this could be your dream ride-like mine its going to be my RV!. Please keep in mind this is a 100 percent rotisserie build. This cost North of 20K. Car is hitting the road in 2019 look forward to meeting a lot of you guys. If I don't retire next year I will have a 425 built....

 

unfortunately, sometimes Dollars & Cents and not everyone can swing a $30K paint job, and some cars don't warrant it.

 

 

nice big improvement

I get razzed about my cars paint all the time...its not great, but its all one color and i dont worry about chips or door dings to much !!!