thatguy32567

I was wondering if anyone knows a reasonably priced body shop in denver area who would do a nice job painting my car. I've been looking for almost 3 months and everywhere I call the lowest price they have is average around $4000.00(may be normal price not sure thats why im asking). But if anyone know somebody please let me know. I want to make it All Yellow again.

Olds64

You should ask these body shops if the $4000.00 price tag includes taping off pieces such as chrome, stainless, door handles etc. If it does this is something you can do to save cost. Remove all of the trim and the bumpers so all the shop has to do is tape off the wheels and windows.

Additionally, you can save money by sanding yourself. Ask the shop if they would completely strip the car or simply sand and then spray the new paint. By doing some of the prep work yourself you should be able to save some money.

gearheads78

What do you need done? Bodywork? Rust repair and metal work? Scuff and shoot?

The best way to get a decent paint job cheap is to the labor yourself for all the assembly and disassembly. Not show quality but you should be able to get some minimal body work done and car painted for $5000-6000.00
If you have the shop take it apart price will jump up quick.

If you really want show quality expect to pay someone 12,000-15,000
Keep in mind its not hard to tie up 2000.00 in just quality materials before you blink.

-Richard

Allan R

I know what you mean. Just the paint material (read can of paint) for my car ran close to almost $1200.00 and that didn't include clear coat or any labor or paint booth time. Not to mention the wet sanding and final polishing and then reinstalling all the rubber and metal parts. All said and done it cost me $8600.00 and that was in 1987!!! I'm betting the same paint job now would be easily double. Only reason I let the shop do the work for reinstalling was that if they screwed it up, they would have to absorb the cost of their mistake to make it right. I'm lucky, my bodyman was a pro named Ken Budjak. He has 2 middle names : Guaranteed Satisfaction

hamm36

I have been quoted a price at $250 a panel. Little more for hood and + $60 per panel if i want the life time clear coat warranty. Shop is family owned for 40 yrs. Striped to the metal, epoxy primer, three coats of color and two coats of clear. He is not charging for the headlight doors, stone shield, sport mirrors and quarter extensions. He also stated if I was not in a hurry he would work with me. The finders and hood have been there for two months (out of my way) while I have had to redo some parts, gas tank and radiator. Est. at 2790 on low end. Only thing on the car is the doors and trunk lid. I did the rest. Try to work a deal before taking your car in.

gearheads78

That sounds awfull cheap 2250.00 for 9 panels will barley pay for cheap materials in a strip to metal job.

You might check with Tommy in the South Bucker area. I have seen some pretty decent cheap work from his shop. (but not that cheap)

joe_padavano

A quality paint job is about 90% labor. The other 10% is materials and as others have noted, the cost of paint is skyrocketing. EPA requirements have driven a lot of this. A gallon of quality automotive paint runs upwards of $150. Add primer, sealer, clear coat, sandpaper, filler, etc and materials alone can run well over $1,000 for quality materials. $4,000 is on the low side.

gearheads78

You guys think its high now just wait a few years. Waterborn will be required. I know a big production shop that is switching early and changes to booth and spray equipment is over $300,000 and they still are not done. This shop has 8 booths running all the time so it was a lot of booths to change but the little guy with one booth will not be able to afford it.

Olds64

You could always get your car sprayed at Macco for $699.

Gary's 2 442-S

I talked with a painter where I live and showed him the pictures of the work I am doing. All I wanted him to do was to shoot the paint. I was going to bring him the car with all the body work being done and with no chrome or windows.He gave me a price of exactly 4,000 and I provide him the paint which is going to be another maybe 1,000. So what I am going to do is paint it myself.

gearheads78

No priming and blocking ?? To just shoot that sounds real high.

Allan R

Richard,
You are right on the money. The body shop I use just installed the new waterborn system 2 weeks ago. (I'm not sure but I think this is something to do with legislation and containment of airborn particulates??? Someone will let us know) Anyway, the cost of a repair to my 98 - rear quarters went from 1200 to 2295. Yes, most of the repair was based on labor. But there's no doubt that I'm helping pay the cost of the waterfall booth. I'm still committed to do the repairs because:
1. I love my Oldsmobile.
2. An Oldsmobile on the road is better than one in the wreckers.
3. You can't get a replacement Oldsmobile anymore.
4. My Oldsmobile hasn't let me down in all the time I've owned it.
5. Dad always said to treat your car right, and it would last forever.
6. I'd rather fix a good car and keep it on the road for 2295 than have to fork out 30000 for another ride. (that would buy a lot of gas now that its coming down in price).

justinj

For what it's worth, I was talking about this with my college instructor who has been in the auto body industry since the late 70s. Apparently the manufacturers of equipment and paint are trying to cash in on the hype, trying to aggressively sell shops a lot of stuff they don't really require to support the new technology.

It makes sense - when the technology changes, it's a great time to start selling. Obviously there is some equipment that they must upgrade, but not all of it is necessary.

-Justin

gearheads78

The shop I am taling about has been testing with it for several months. The reason they have to upgrade is drying time. The base takes 3-4 times longer to dry than a solvent based. That just won't fly in a production based shop.

Olds64

I know one thing about paint. In the mid 90s Detroit manufacturers used a LOW quality paint. All you have to do is look at a mid 90s Ford Taurus, Buick LeSaber, Chevy Celebrity, etc. to see them peeling and cracking. It is a wonder that the paint quality was so low. Some 60s cars have paint that is top notch after 40+ years.

BLUE72RAGTOP

I took off bumpers, hood, fenders, doors, & deck lid. Sanded my hands off. Trimmed it out. Put it all back together. Sprayed a guide coat. Sanded some more. Paid the shop for 10 hours to block sand. Sealed, primed, and finally painted. $3000 total which included the sanding labor and about $1200 in materials. Gave the painter and body guy who helped each a $100 tip. It would have been about $6500 without the stuff I did or had done on the side. I had a bunch of help from two friends in the business. Without them it would not have been completed. I can't imagine getting a quality job for any less with a color change, but you could get it done for about $3500 or so if repainting same color and not doing all the tear down.

Allan R

Great to hear. Please put up some pics so we can see how it turned out. Doesn't matter if it's still being put back together. That's half the fun.

gearheads78

Sounds like a fair deal to get some good work..now lets see the pics

citcapp

You guys are scaring me to death. My 1957 is going into the body shop on November 15th to get new lower door panel metal (only rust on the whole car) on both doors and a little on the hood. The black on the car is perfect no work required, but when he does the doors and the hood I wanted him to shoot all of the white so it matches all of the way around. I am in Seattle Washington, What should I expect.

ijasond

There is a lot of fussing going on about the waterborne basecoat systems. Contrary to popular belief, the only equipment required to make the transition is a new paint gun(which a good painter replaces every couple of years anyway) and some hand held dryers. The dryers look like little more than your wife's hair dryer and 4 of them mounted on a stand will dry half a car in far less time than solvent borne base coats would require. Most shops that have already made the transition are reporting 10% - 20% decrease in cycle times. Meaning an increase in production. European auto makers have been using it for years and the quality has proven to be superior. If you've seen a Volkswagen, Mercedes, BMW, Saab, Audi, etc. produced in Europe in the last 10 years, you've seen waterborne and it actually looks better. Body shops are repairing these cars without even knowing whether waterborne was used at the factory or not. Any one who has worked in or around the auto body industry knows how stubborn we can be when it comes to change. There was a time when we thought basecoat/clearcoat was straight from the devil himself, but that turned out ok(granted there were a couple kinks in the beginning). The bottom line is, no new booths are going to be required, the paint doesn't even require a system of agitators like the current systems do. A few hundred dollars and a few hours of training(which is required every two years anyway to maintain painter certification) and the switch will be easy as pie. The biggest problem is that we fear change.
Now, whether or not it is better for the environment? Some say yes, some say no. The yes's sit in the big oak chairs in D.C., so it doesn't really matter.

ijasond

Another common misconception is that it is a water based paint, Waterborne is not water based. That doesn't make much sense, but if it were water based, you wouldn't be able to keep using the solvent borne clears. The materials and equipment still have to be compatible. The idea that a guy will have to spend $300,000 is ludicrous. The only thing they recommend as far as paint booths go is that you have a downdraft with heat. If you are still using a crossdraft booth, you should have changed it out 15 years ago. It will be less productive, but not impossible to keep using the old cross draft booths. Sorry, I didn't mean to go off on a waterborne tangent, it's just that being in the auto body industry, I get tired of guys whining and raising hell about having to change before they even know what they are changing to. This will be a far easier transition than when we went from single stage to two-stage base/clear paint.

Techmaven

Exactly why I do it all myself.

OLD SKL 69

I agree. I am still doing mechanical and metal work right now. My car needs minor bodywork and then hopefully it will be ready for paint this fall or next spring. Either way, I am doing it myself. There is no way I would pay someone that kind of money. I am just going to look to rent a spray booth because I do not want that stink/poison sprayed in my garage.

MN71W30

The way I learned was to have my Uncle who is a very good local painter stop by now and then and give me direction... This is critical... It seems a guy can get lost on what to do next and needs to learn some things about when to stop sanding. He taught me this by having me always prime 2 different colors, then sand one color off with a long block sander "dummy stick" as he called it, and then repair the spots left over and then repeat the process over and over. Also the primer fillers available out there are better than ever.
You can do it,
It's like riding a bike, once you learn..it's easy
Good luck,