buff swirls

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Old March 26th, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
archeryshooter's Avatar
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Tony
 
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From: wisconsin
buff swirls

ok now that im done buffing how do I make the swirls go away?
Old March 26th, 2011 | 10:08 AM
  #2  
rocketraider's Avatar
Oldsdruid
 
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From: Southside Vajenya
I know that both 3M and Meguiars make a swirl remover polish. You'll probably have to get it at a body & paint supply.

Next, what color? That deep red in your avatar? sometimes dark colors are impossible to get all the swirl marks but the above products will sure reduce them.
Old March 26th, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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A variable speed buffer with a foam pad and Meguiars Mirror Glaze #9 swirl remover, the stuff in the tan bottles.
It depends on what you used to buff it out with too.
If you used a wool pad with a more aggressive compound you may need the #2 fine cut cleaner followed up with #9, don't use the same pad and don't let the material dry on the surface.
Old March 26th, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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I'm going to assume you buffed it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. If so, you need to go over it with a foam polishing pad and polishing compound. 3M Perfect It III products work very well for this. When you use the polishing pad keep the buffer RPMs down to 1400 or less and work in small areas and do not let the material dry. Keep the pad clean or have an extra one on hand while the other one dries after you rinse it out. When you finish that, may need to go over the entire surface by hand using the same polishing compound and a soft cloth and do not work in circles. When that is done, you can use a final glaze or products like Final Inspection that get sprayed on and wiped off. Good luck.
Old March 27th, 2011 | 01:15 AM
  #5  
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Just a hopefully non- thread- interruptive question please. What is that red paint color ??
mike
Old March 27th, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #6  
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Tony
 
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Its candyred house of color 3 coats over silver matalic
Old March 27th, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #7  
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Tony
 
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From: wisconsin
Originally Posted by 69442C
I'm going to assume you buffed it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. If so, you need to go over it with a foam polishing pad and polishing compound. 3M Perfect It III products work very well for this. When you use the polishing pad keep the buffer RPMs down to 1400 or less and work in small areas and do not let the material dry. Keep the pad clean or have an extra one on hand while the other one dries after you rinse it out. When you finish that, may need to go over the entire surface by hand using the same polishing compound and a soft cloth and do not work in circles. When that is done, you can use a final glaze or products like Final Inspection that get sprayed on and wiped off. Good luck.
Thanks Tony
Old March 29th, 2011 | 02:00 AM
  #8  
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Just today at the local paint shop I was given foam pad 05737 and a 2kg pail of 3m perfect it. Told to keep the revs under 1400 rpm and go mad like a novice --not quite . Was also given 1200wd to start with . Now I am not sure except the job is coming out real smooth and zero edge burns or swirl marks .The wee mica things are shining . My short term experience absolutely concurs with above comments.
mike
Old March 29th, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 69442C
I'm going to assume you buffed it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. If so, you need to go over it with a foam polishing pad and polishing compound. 3M Perfect It III products work very well for this. When you use the polishing pad keep the buffer RPMs down to 1400 or less and work in small areas and do not let the material dry. Keep the pad clean or have an extra one on hand while the other one dries after you rinse it out. When you finish that, may need to go over the entire surface by hand using the same polishing compound and a soft cloth and do not work in circles. When that is done, you can use a final glaze or products like Final Inspection that get sprayed on and wiped off. Good luck.
Tony, this" Final inspection " you mention .Is it a substitute for wax or is it pre the wax ?
Thanks
mike
Old March 29th, 2011 | 04:26 AM
  #10  
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This has been posted here before, but here is a site that is a wealth of information on this subject

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=7&start=0
Old March 29th, 2011 | 05:28 AM
  #11  
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Tony, this" Final inspection " you mention .Is it a substitute for wax or is it pre the wax ?
Thanks
mike


The Final Inspection is really neither. It's a quick detailer to add gloss and I suspect it has a additive that will hide very fine swirl marks. The car should still be waxed after the new paint cures for 30 days as a minimum. And whenever you want to give it a quick detail, hit it with a little Final Inspection.

I should have mentioned, when using the Perfect It product and the foam pad; don't lean on the buffer and move the buffer over the work area slowly to allow the product to work. Don't let it dry and wipe it off with a clean soft cloth or micro fiber cloth.

Lastly, not sure where Tony came from but it's Brian.
Old March 29th, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #12  
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Tony
 
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From: wisconsin
[quote=69442C;266379]Tony, this" Final inspection " you mention .Is it a substitute for wax or is it pre the wax ?
Thanks
mike

The Final Inspection is really neither. It's a quick detailer to add gloss and I suspect it has a additive that will hide very fine swirl marks. The car should still be waxed after the new paint cures for 30 days as a minimum. And whenever you want to give it a quick detail, hit it with a little Final Inspection.

I should have mentioned, when using the Perfect It product and the foam pad; don't lean on the buffer and move the buffer over the work area slowly to allow the product to work. Don't let it dry and wipe it off with a clean soft cloth or micro fiber cloth.

Lastly, not sure where Tony came from but it's Brian.[/quote
Thanks again Ill give it a whirl (no pun intended) When the weather warms Now I have heard some paint guys say they dont like to wax at all
Old March 29th, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #13  
archeryshooter's Avatar
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Tony
 
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From: wisconsin
Originally Posted by yammiman
This has been posted here before, but here is a site that is a wealth of information on this subject

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=7&start=0
Thanks for the info
Old June 21st, 2011 | 08:24 PM
  #14  
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I washed my black 68 with cornstarch a few times and the swirled went away. Read it on the internet. Try googling to see for yourself.
Old June 21st, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #15  
rocketraider's Avatar
Oldsdruid
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,606
From: Southside Vajenya
Ah, cornstarch. A very fine, very forgiving abrasive that will sure bring out the shine. I tried that trick a few times and it does work.
Old June 22nd, 2011 | 06:20 AM
  #16  
archeryshooter's Avatar
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Tony
 
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: wisconsin
Originally Posted by Crusineagle
I washed my black 68 with cornstarch a few times and the swirled went away. Read it on the internet. Try googling to see for yourself.
Thanks I will give it a try
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