buff swirls
#2
I know that both 3M and Meguiars make a swirl remover polish. You'll probably have to get it at a body & paint supply.
Next, what color? That deep red in your avatar? sometimes dark colors are impossible to get all the swirl marks but the above products will sure reduce them.
Next, what color? That deep red in your avatar? sometimes dark colors are impossible to get all the swirl marks but the above products will sure reduce them.
#3
A variable speed buffer with a foam pad and Meguiars Mirror Glaze #9 swirl remover, the stuff in the tan bottles.
It depends on what you used to buff it out with too.
If you used a wool pad with a more aggressive compound you may need the #2 fine cut cleaner followed up with #9, don't use the same pad and don't let the material dry on the surface.
It depends on what you used to buff it out with too.
If you used a wool pad with a more aggressive compound you may need the #2 fine cut cleaner followed up with #9, don't use the same pad and don't let the material dry on the surface.
#4
I'm going to assume you buffed it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. If so, you need to go over it with a foam polishing pad and polishing compound. 3M Perfect It III products work very well for this. When you use the polishing pad keep the buffer RPMs down to 1400 or less and work in small areas and do not let the material dry. Keep the pad clean or have an extra one on hand while the other one dries after you rinse it out. When you finish that, may need to go over the entire surface by hand using the same polishing compound and a soft cloth and do not work in circles. When that is done, you can use a final glaze or products like Final Inspection that get sprayed on and wiped off. Good luck.
#7
I'm going to assume you buffed it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. If so, you need to go over it with a foam polishing pad and polishing compound. 3M Perfect It III products work very well for this. When you use the polishing pad keep the buffer RPMs down to 1400 or less and work in small areas and do not let the material dry. Keep the pad clean or have an extra one on hand while the other one dries after you rinse it out. When you finish that, may need to go over the entire surface by hand using the same polishing compound and a soft cloth and do not work in circles. When that is done, you can use a final glaze or products like Final Inspection that get sprayed on and wiped off. Good luck.
#8
Just today at the local paint shop I was given foam pad 05737 and a 2kg pail of 3m perfect it. Told to keep the revs under 1400 rpm and go mad like a novice --not quite . Was also given 1200wd to start with . Now I am not sure except the job is coming out real smooth and zero edge burns or swirl marks .The wee mica things are shining . My short term experience absolutely concurs with above comments.
mike
mike
#9
I'm going to assume you buffed it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. If so, you need to go over it with a foam polishing pad and polishing compound. 3M Perfect It III products work very well for this. When you use the polishing pad keep the buffer RPMs down to 1400 or less and work in small areas and do not let the material dry. Keep the pad clean or have an extra one on hand while the other one dries after you rinse it out. When you finish that, may need to go over the entire surface by hand using the same polishing compound and a soft cloth and do not work in circles. When that is done, you can use a final glaze or products like Final Inspection that get sprayed on and wiped off. Good luck.
Thanks
mike
#10
This has been posted here before, but here is a site that is a wealth of information on this subject
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=7&start=0
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=7&start=0
#11
Tony, this" Final inspection " you mention .Is it a substitute for wax or is it pre the wax ?
Thanks
mike
The Final Inspection is really neither. It's a quick detailer to add gloss and I suspect it has a additive that will hide very fine swirl marks. The car should still be waxed after the new paint cures for 30 days as a minimum. And whenever you want to give it a quick detail, hit it with a little Final Inspection.
I should have mentioned, when using the Perfect It product and the foam pad; don't lean on the buffer and move the buffer over the work area slowly to allow the product to work. Don't let it dry and wipe it off with a clean soft cloth or micro fiber cloth.
Lastly, not sure where Tony came from but it's Brian.
Thanks
mike
The Final Inspection is really neither. It's a quick detailer to add gloss and I suspect it has a additive that will hide very fine swirl marks. The car should still be waxed after the new paint cures for 30 days as a minimum. And whenever you want to give it a quick detail, hit it with a little Final Inspection.
I should have mentioned, when using the Perfect It product and the foam pad; don't lean on the buffer and move the buffer over the work area slowly to allow the product to work. Don't let it dry and wipe it off with a clean soft cloth or micro fiber cloth.
Lastly, not sure where Tony came from but it's Brian.
#12
[quote=69442C;266379]Tony, this" Final inspection " you mention .Is it a substitute for wax or is it pre the wax ?
Thanks
mike
The Final Inspection is really neither. It's a quick detailer to add gloss and I suspect it has a additive that will hide very fine swirl marks. The car should still be waxed after the new paint cures for 30 days as a minimum. And whenever you want to give it a quick detail, hit it with a little Final Inspection.
I should have mentioned, when using the Perfect It product and the foam pad; don't lean on the buffer and move the buffer over the work area slowly to allow the product to work. Don't let it dry and wipe it off with a clean soft cloth or micro fiber cloth.
Lastly, not sure where Tony came from but it's Brian.[/quote
Thanks again Ill give it a whirl (no pun intended) When the weather warms Now I have heard some paint guys say they dont like to wax at all
Thanks
mike
The Final Inspection is really neither. It's a quick detailer to add gloss and I suspect it has a additive that will hide very fine swirl marks. The car should still be waxed after the new paint cures for 30 days as a minimum. And whenever you want to give it a quick detail, hit it with a little Final Inspection.
I should have mentioned, when using the Perfect It product and the foam pad; don't lean on the buffer and move the buffer over the work area slowly to allow the product to work. Don't let it dry and wipe it off with a clean soft cloth or micro fiber cloth.
Lastly, not sure where Tony came from but it's Brian.[/quote
Thanks again Ill give it a whirl (no pun intended) When the weather warms Now I have heard some paint guys say they dont like to wax at all
#13
This has been posted here before, but here is a site that is a wealth of information on this subject
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=7&start=0
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=7&start=0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bluexr7
Parts Wanted
1
June 27th, 2012 09:15 PM