Steering wheel medallion removal
Steering wheel medallion removal
I don’t have a shop manual for the Delmont 88 in my hands yet so I don’t know the trick for removing the central steering wheel medallion. I assume the inner horn switch screws are concealed beneath it. I’ve gingerly twisted and pulled and it doesn’t release.
I need to remove the horn switches for cleaning/repairing the intermittent contacts.
I need to remove the horn switches for cleaning/repairing the intermittent contacts.
I don’t have a shop manual for the Delmont 88 in my hands yet so I don’t know the trick for removing the central steering wheel medallion. I assume the inner horn switch screws are concealed beneath it. I’ve gingerly twisted and pulled and it doesn’t release.
I need to remove the horn switches for cleaning/repairing the intermittent contacts.
I need to remove the horn switches for cleaning/repairing the intermittent contacts.
Ran across a photograph of a Delta 88 steering wheel and saw where the clips engage into the steering wheel. Inserted my fingernails, gritted my teeth and pulled. I figured they would snap off first.
I realize now that the clips are made sensibly of steel and there was nothing fragile to break. Contacts are cleaned of oxidation, treated with Vaseline and now it’s honking reliably.
I realize now that the clips are made sensibly of steel and there was nothing fragile to break. Contacts are cleaned of oxidation, treated with Vaseline and now it’s honking reliably.
The retaining ring which retains the plastic trim is made of spring steel which will yield (unclip) under sufficient force. In '66 there were 2 prongs or "ears" that secured the ring/medallion to the column. I suspect, but don't know, they used the same or similar design in 1967.
For reference, the hairline cracks in the plastic medallion are par for the course. If you find one that's crack-free, snap it up. 90% of these medallions cracked up over the past 60 years. Beneath the medallion is a Saginaw-made steering column which shares many design features and some parts with other GM cars of the day. See my posts on the '66 tilt & tele column repair for reference.
Basically, the plastic parts can wear out and crack/break, but the brass contacts, electrical grounds and what not are very durable. If your plastics is/are broken, you're probably buying another column to get good replacements since 196x big Oldsmobile columns are not in high demand. No, Cutlass/442 parts probably won't work.
There are a few people working on 3D printing replacement parts for the long-gone plastic parts. I wouldn't call it a market, but you might just be able to find someone who can reproduce any failed/cracked/broken plastics if you can provide an original part to make a pattern from.
My own approach is a stash of '66 Big Car tilt & tele columns stored under my house to cannibalize as needed.
Cheers
Chris
For reference, the hairline cracks in the plastic medallion are par for the course. If you find one that's crack-free, snap it up. 90% of these medallions cracked up over the past 60 years. Beneath the medallion is a Saginaw-made steering column which shares many design features and some parts with other GM cars of the day. See my posts on the '66 tilt & tele column repair for reference.
Basically, the plastic parts can wear out and crack/break, but the brass contacts, electrical grounds and what not are very durable. If your plastics is/are broken, you're probably buying another column to get good replacements since 196x big Oldsmobile columns are not in high demand. No, Cutlass/442 parts probably won't work.
There are a few people working on 3D printing replacement parts for the long-gone plastic parts. I wouldn't call it a market, but you might just be able to find someone who can reproduce any failed/cracked/broken plastics if you can provide an original part to make a pattern from.
My own approach is a stash of '66 Big Car tilt & tele columns stored under my house to cannibalize as needed.
Cheers
Chris
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