Feel Guilty! I was huddled next to a duraflame electric heater all day... well, since 1 o clock. Get out there and fix something!

I have a few pictures to follow!

 

Here is the throwout bearing I used, by McLeod 8617. very nice piece, fit perfectly, and isnt a crappy roller bearing for you 4 speed swappers!

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Here is the input shaft engagement. Now this is a 97 LT1 style T56 I installed a longer LS style input from like a 99 style rig. with the addition of the adapter plate to mount the muncie bellhousing, NO DRILLING OF THE CRANKSHAFT! yay

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Also I would like to point out I just ordered parts, and hoped it worked... this isnt on the internet anywhere I have found

 

Here is the clutch... I hope this thing is worth the ridiculous amount of money I spent

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Here is the whole assembly

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I do have one problem though, here is my clutch fork with throwout bearing, (from centerforce ) and its just touching the fingers on the clutch, and I only have like a 1/4 inch of movement before I hit the bellhousing, so you 4 speed experts, what do I do, longer clutch ball? I got this bell from a guy running a pontiac motor, maybe those use a different pivot ball? otherwise I dont know what to do. ( also you can see my custom made extended length dowel for helping aligning this BIG transmission to engine haha, uses a flathead to spin it in and out

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Here is just a picture of the flywheel I skipped, btw, thanks to 2blue442 for giving me such a good deal!

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Well I called center force today, they were convinced I had the wrong ball stud for the application. they recommended lakewood's adjustable one. Guess that is my next move

 

Did some research and found a part number for this longer stud from GM, I installed it and my geometry seems to be great now! I don't really want to go with adjustable... too many horror stories

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Nonhog thank you so much for sending me that spacer! here you can see it sits on the rear motor mount bolt, while the front, has the power steering pump bracket sandwiched between the mount, and the block. Luckily I saved the power steering bracket from the parts car (after throwing out the one off this one, oops )

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No prob! That engine looks so right in there!
Good to see your back at it!

 

Looks like you even have room for the exhaust. Great work.

 

I cant take all the credit, the other guy with the 455 omega found out if you use a rack and pinion, cutlass headers fit. Thats the route im going, only because I found a rack and pinion for CHEAP on ebay haha!

 

I've been following your thread, I've seen a lot of parts are keeping track of $$ or are you like me putting the receipts in stack to afraid to add them up.If the wife only knew.
Railguy

 

Well a little of both, I lose the occasional receipt, I am trying to keep them all. However one of the reasons this is taking so long is because I do a lot of bargain hunting, I have been getting a lot of parts used off ebay, like the rack and pinion, the wheels, the headers I just bought. The trans came from a wrecking yard that wanted about half the normal price, so a little bit of luck and patience is making this car become a reality

 

Just got it running this weekend.
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BBO Omega, could you tell us more? What headers, steering, motor mounts. I am trying to use the mounts from a 79 Trans Am and Headers from a 70 A body.

 

lookin really good! I cant believe you still have a 10 bolt rear end in that car

 

why are you using motor mounts from a t/a? I used the omega frame and motor mounts and the big block fits fine. the a body headers seem to fit the gray omega i saw with a rack and pinion

 

The Trans Am had a 403 and that was what I was told was the best way to put the olds motor in a Omega. The Mount from the Trans am bolts to the motor and the rubber pad bolts to the frame.

 

I still use the Factory Frame Mounts with a stock rubber mount on the Passenger Side and a solid mount from Dick Miller on the Drivers Side along with a limiter bolted to the block behind the Power Steering Pump. The Headers are custom made 2" x 3 1/2" units. The Exhaust is a Pypes 3" Race Flow System [fairly quiet]. And the rear end is a 12 Bolt out of a 69 Camaro.
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Nice! Now where is the video. I want to hear it. Lol. Did you have to do any modifications to the 12 bolt out of the Camaro?

 

I use an AGR 12:1 Steering box which is almost too quick. The Camaro 12 Bolt is a direct "Bolt in" for a 1973 /74 Omega. I did have the tubes welded to the pumpkin, and added S10 Disk Brakes.

 

I went the same route except I went with a 9 inch because I had one, had gm bearing ends welded on, and had special thickness retainer plates made and mounted the s10 brakes on the rear

 

I have good news! I ordered headers... and they fit!

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I got these bad boys used on ebay, they are from m*nd*llo of all places, they are for a big block cutlass, at one point in time I actually payed full price for stainless "omega" headers, and this is what they were, and of course they didnt fit, well now that I have the rack and pinion, they do! The headers were advertised as "used just to check for leaks" and of course they have a small bit of road rash on them... not surprised, but for the price, NOT complaining

 

Almost hear it running.

 

Me too, i need to start getting it ready for paint, luckily i have a set of fenders that are solid, that will shorten the prep time, it will probably be driven around with a tore apart interior for awhile, I just cant wait haha

 

The Jeremiah you said headers for a big block Cutlass, but you didn't say what year. I am hoping 68-72. That was what I was told fit so that is what I ordered to.

 

Yup, big block cutlass between 68 and 72 is what I have, works fine with the rack and pinion!

 

Think I will be ok, mine is a 78 Omega and has the steering box in front of the cross member, both of the cars pictured are earlier years and have the box behind the cross member.

 

This is the mounts that were bolted to a 403 motor in a Trans Am, and what I am using.

 

The rubber insulator bolts to the frame cross member and the long bolt in the motor mount goes through it.

 

Yours will just have that much more room for the exhaust if its a front steer car! Im jealous, those sub frames dont just slide into an earlier car, so i had to dish out some money for a rack and pinion, but its used so no biggie i got a good deal.

the major reason I stuck with the factory style 74 mounts is because a solid one for the driver side was readily available from dick miller.

There really is no good reason to put a big engine like this into such a small car except for complete insanity.. but hey normal is overrated. ha-ha

 

There really is no good reason to put a big engine like this into such a small car except for complete insanity.. but hey normal is overrated. ha-ha[/QUOTE]

When I was younger I put a 350 chevy in a Vega.At the same time a friend of mine put a BB 390 in a Datsun B-210.2 4s and everything.He owned a speed shop and that engine was built.
railguy

 

When I was younger I put a 350 chevy in a Vega.At the same time a friend of mine put a BB 390 in a Datsun B-210.2 4s and everything.He owned a speed shop and that engine was built.
railguy[/QUOTE]

That, is really impressive!

 

trimming some fat tonight

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cut some more fat, its a slower process now that I am a homeowner, not complaining, but it is slower.

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You're driven Man, keep going!

 

Holy smokes! Fat? As in bondo?

 

no just rust, havent found any bondo yet, except in one front fender. but its minimal. my goal was to fix the rusted wheel lips that i found, but there was a nice dent in the fender, that the patch panel would fix, so I just cut the whole thing about the same size as the patch, the other side wont be so extensive!

 

July is almost over. We need updates!

 

Just an interesting tidbit.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=38138

WARNING: Has Nova/Camaro content.

 

I know I saw that done before in Muscle magazine or something.Maybe it was the same car?
railguy