What clutch and brake pedals did you use?How did they fit?
railguy

 

Bought the pedals and linkage at a swap meet for 75 bucks. The guy said he bought them for a 68 nova, put them in, then decided to go automatic, so they are brand new basically. Looks like the pedal kit ss396 sells for around 169. That being said, there website says 68 to 72, but the brake pedal is the same shape as the brake pedal i pulled out of my 74. so im sure the only major differences in those years are linkage. Also the clutch pedal lines right up with the hole that is already punched into the firewall for the linkage, but im probably gonna go hydraulic

looks like this kit to me
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=FMCK-69S

 

also, seems to fit very well! I just need to get the bumper that the clutch pedal rests against for 3.99!

 

Definately yes on the red wells. Are you gonna change the sub frame over to a "F" body sub ?

 

lots of people say yes on the red fenderwells, i think ill go ahead and do that since they need to be cleaned up anyway.

I didnt have plans to change the sub frame, what is an "F" body subframe? are you refering to a front steer subframe? if so, those dont fit without a lot of modifications. I did end up getting a rack and pinion kit off ebay for the steering issues these have

 

Figured out what im gonna do with the clutch linkage I think, also planning on making a trip to the local pull a part this weekend, see if i cant find some things I need. Ive been sick so i havent made much progress, did take the tailcone off the T56 and took it to my machinist friend to get worked on ( converting to a cable drive, bought the parts from Jagsthatrun, they dont do the machining anymore apparantly ? :S)

 

this thread is not dead! Just been busy with things (mostly omega related) second guessing my color choice though, thinking about blue now, i just dont know! im starting to like the aegean auqa a lot, and it was a special order color in 70, so I know theres no omega running around with a color like that.

 

Ok update time, finally got out to do some work to the omega, for starters, the girlfriend got me an early Xmas present a nos Oldsmobile omega key tag, don't know what year, but it's still b.a.

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Got the sub frame out and stripped, gonna get it powder coated

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Found this once I got it all apart, luckily I picked up disc brakes and control arms this weekend

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So ive been in astoria since wednesday, no work on the omega, however before I left I tore apart all the stuff I got, the control arm i need to replace is the wrong one, someone rigged an A body control arm or something in there, cause its completely different, the disc brakes are also A body, but you can change the steering arms to make them work

 

Wow, that could have been a potentially dangerous situation. Can we say Trashed A arm due to lack of maintenance??? That bushing has been shot a long time ago huh???

 

Wonder if the Omega smacked a curb? They mentioned needing an alignment when I bought it. What an understatement!

Any color on that car would go well. Blue sounds nice. However skip the red fender wells if you paint it red.(IMO) Which doesn't sound like it.
The reason I say that is mismatched red combo is nasty and a matched red and red would be very eighties.

I'll watch Seattle CL for A-arms.

 

Yea I have no Idea what happened, but the first time i drove it, it drove like a truck, so i knew something was up. Havent decided if i want to go stock, or get some CPP tubular control arms for it with my tax return, thanks for all your help nonhog, i got your email!

On the color side of things, heres my issue. I like red, but like you said the red fender wells dont go well with red body color. so thats out

I saw a silver 1970 nova in my recent car craft issue, and it was ugly. I dont think that body style goes well with that color like the A body does, so im starting to think thats out.

I really like the special order blue color the aegean aqua or whatever its called, but my engine is blue, and i think that will take away from the shiny engine, also I wanted to paint the metal part of my dash to match, and a blue dash bugs me.

That being said im kinda thinking about a bronze, or dark green, both are kinda different, but darker colors, and i really like a bright color that stands out. I need to get photoshop and do some work i think.

So im thinking ming jade poly, aegean auqa, or nugget gold. any thoughts? i think those would look good with the red fender wells. I google the colors and try to imagine, but like i said, i need photoshop.

I could also paint it red white and blue!

 

I need help deciding on color, i think ive narrowed it down to these two, also i have no idea what these colors are, anyone have the color code information? when I get paint, im gonna go to wesco about 30 miles away and get the proper gm color made

first color

 

well crap, i cant make the image work, i googled 70 442, and they have a gold color on some, and a dark green on some. i like those two colors, any idea what they are? (i know this got stupid haha oh well)

 

Never heard of Gold Wheat, but looks nice on a Omega.

Kino

 

that looks like the gold color, cant decide between that and green. ugh

 

this is the green, is this dark green a factory color, which code? thanks guys!

dcp_00062.jpg

 

Sherwood Green, code 48

 

I like the Sherwood green color best personally. I think the color pops better!

 

cool thanks guys, im gonna sleep on it, (got some time, still need to sand car), but ill probably go with that green, i want something that will look good with red fender wells, and wont drown out the blue of the engine when the hood it open. I think this will be sweet.

 

I have the color codes along with the sample chips for the 74 Omega out in my garage is that what your looking for?
railguy

 

no Im gonna go with a color that was available on a 70 model year car (442 for example) because I like those colors better, I think the options in 74 were a little more.. bleck haha!

Hey railguy before you asked me what pedals I used for doing the conversion to manual, did you see I answered you? It was a setup from a nova

 

Yes I saw I wasn't sure about those some sellers said they fit wile some said they didn't.That project is kinda on the back burner now.I'm puting all my extra money in my sons 93 Blazer.Thank for asking and good luck with your project,I'm following your updates.
railguy

 

I'm going to vote for the dark Green too, but then again I'm already biased.

 

Are you still needing the A arms?
I replaced mine with lowered tubular arms and the factory ones are in great shape, ball joints and bushings still look good but should be replaced due to age...

 

I love how your car looks in that color, im hoping mine looks half as good! I think that color makes the red W-30 fender wells pop on the W-30 cars. cant wait until I get that far

 

Well I really only need 1, I need the lower driver side. Mine is completely trashed, I would love it If you could hook me up with one, the only problem is im in Washington state, make me an offer I cant refuse, and If shipping doesnt kill me, I think we can work out a deal!

 

Got a lot of sanding done this weekend, I also got most of the floor peeled up, I got my input shaft, waiting for adapter plate, gonna bolt engine and trans and build a crossmember to mount trans and modify tunnel this week and upcoming weekend.

 

You lose your camera?

 

no haha, I have it, i just get caught up on stuff and forget to take pictures, i got a couple good ones to follow right now!

 

popped the front off trans to change input
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new input shaft on the right
inputshaft_zps77ee9968.jpg

 

starting to mock up the sub frame, tomorrow ill throw trans on and start building a crossmember
overhead_zpsb5b9ca6e.jpg

toronado pan clears rack and pinion!
passside_zps56b7b09c.jpg

here's the driver side, and they said you need a milodon pan!
driverside_zps4941b497.jpg

 

searching around the net after getting my adapter plate for the t56, I found out everyone was buying LS style mid plates to mount the adapter to, I have the LT style, my initial thought was to cut this piece, and when i called the gearbox, they said the same, dont need to spend money on a stupid LS mid plate!
774940_10152440974680158_1971831342_o.jpg

adapter bolted to bellhousing
792277_10152443593575158_623543817_o.jpg

heres the whole setup on the sub frame, next is build a crossmember and see how much i have to take out of the floor!
798176_10152443941895158_259714966_o.jpg

 

Oh i forgot to mention the best part, with this setup, i bolted everything together and the input shaft is about a half of an inch too short, soooo, I DONT HAVE TO DRILL THE CRANKSHAFT HAHAHAHAHAHA... i was excited. I just need to get a big bronze bushing and beat it into the back of the crank!

 

Nice innovation Jeremiah, getting there.

 

If memory serves, when I was an Olds parts guy in the 70's we sold a pilot bearing for the stick shift cars... If I remember correctly, the part number was 907321. Is that still the case?

I do believe the bushing and bearing were interchangeable however.

 

lol, that almost sounds a bit sarcastic! although its hard to tell over text! haha

Not sure, But I measured .590 on the pilot, and 1.704 on the crank, after much searching I found a popular bushing for swapping an old chev from a turbo glide (not powerglide) to a standard trans, the part number was PB656R, however no one can get one, somehow after much searching I found McLeod racing makes the same bushing but its 8617 from them, regardless the diameters are .592 and 1.709, and its slightly extended so you can trim if you need too. cant wait to see if it works!

 

Also I would like to point out that I learned how to multi-quote today, sorry for the double post.

 

Sorry, not meant to be sarcastic at all. I just think you think out of the box at times and I admire that. Maybe it's that I've never been a numbers matching guy and I like new ideas. No sarcasm intended.