Any trick to changing a fuel pump in a 394?
#1
Any trick to changing a fuel pump in a 394?
I got a new rebuilt fuel pump for my 62 Starfire. I just wanted to ask if there is anything special I need to do before switching it out with my old one. I have never done anything like this before so I thought it would be best to ask. It is basically just unbolting the old one, taking it off, gluing new gasket to block, and putting on new pump?? I just don't want to risk messing anything up since I am quite new to all of this. It would be nice to get the car running again without a leaky fuel pump Any help would be great!!
#2
Other than the back bolt being aggravating to access, it's a pretty straightforward job. Just make sure the lever is under the fuel pump drive eccentric on the cam when you install the new one. I like a wobble extension to do the back bolt. Sears has 'em.
Best to loosen the fuel line to carb before you start unbolting it.
Is the new pump set up for modern crap gas? if it isn't you'll probably be doing the job again in a few hundred miles.
Best to loosen the fuel line to carb before you start unbolting it.
Is the new pump set up for modern crap gas? if it isn't you'll probably be doing the job again in a few hundred miles.
#3
Do I have to drain the oil or anything?? Wobble extension eh..I have heard that somewhere before. I haven't really looked too close at my existing fuel pump, other than a visual inspection and saw that it was leaking. I will have to take some reference pictures before I dive into it, and see if I have any of the proper tools anymore (inlaws kids kind of liked to borrow them, and they would never come back).
As far as I know it should be set up for modern gas. I ordered it from Fusicks. It was either that or USA parts supply. I appreciate the info. I was reading the 61 shop manual and it was talking about using a jumper wire to bump the engine so the distro rotor was pointing toward the cowl...but I don't know why this would make the job easier. Trying to cover things from all angles so I don't screw up my new car
As far as I know it should be set up for modern gas. I ordered it from Fusicks. It was either that or USA parts supply. I appreciate the info. I was reading the 61 shop manual and it was talking about using a jumper wire to bump the engine so the distro rotor was pointing toward the cowl...but I don't know why this would make the job easier. Trying to cover things from all angles so I don't screw up my new car
#4
What that does is rotate the cam to where the fuel pump eccentric is up top. Makes it a little easier to get the new pump in.
Hey, at least you ain't gotta fool with that fuel pump pushrod that always falls out like the Chevy guys do.
Hey, at least you ain't gotta fool with that fuel pump pushrod that always falls out like the Chevy guys do.
#6
Humm.. so where do I use a jumper wire? I am not sure about the whole process. I assume that I need to pop the distro cap off. You are talking to a complete rookie when it comes to the mechanical stuff on a car. I could prob take a whole car apart and reassemble it.. but if you needed me to fix something mechanical, I would be totally (and am) lost lol. The shop manuals don't go into a lot of detail either on the "simple" stuff. Do I have to lube the new fuel pump arm or anything? I just assumed that you just kind of stuck the new one where the old one use to be.
Baugher, I believe that your setup is basically the same as mine. Hopefully we can both figure this out
Baugher, I believe that your setup is basically the same as mine. Hopefully we can both figure this out
#8
Thanks! I haven't really messed with my car all that much. The battery it came with ended up dying on me. So far I have just been buying small parts (mostly light bulbs/switches) to get things going. Hopefully I can figure out why my heater isn't kicking on, as well as the wipers. I have only had the car for a bit over a month or so now. Needs a headliner, front seats recovered, and front control arm bushings to be really OK for now. I don't plan on making it a show car, just a nice looking driver, which it pretty much is already.
I hope you post pictures of your car. I would love to see engine pictures without the air filter. Hopefully I can hold off on the carb rebuild. I think the fuel pump had the worst leaks. I have yet to replace any of the rubber fuel lines, but those will be on the list as well.
I hope you post pictures of your car. I would love to see engine pictures without the air filter. Hopefully I can hold off on the carb rebuild. I think the fuel pump had the worst leaks. I have yet to replace any of the rubber fuel lines, but those will be on the list as well.
#9
Don't worry about a jumper cable - just take off the distributor cap and keep getting in the car, bumping the starter switch for a fraction of a second, and getting out again to see where the rotor is pointing. You'll get it to point in the right direction after a few tries.
- Eric
- Eric
#10
#11
I was thinking of having them rebuild my carb when I get that done down the road. Thanks for that info. That is good to know!!!
Thanks for that info as well Eric. I figured that might be the easiest way to do it, or have my wife sit in there At least in this car, she can kind of see over the dashboard lol.
Thanks for that info as well Eric. I figured that might be the easiest way to do it, or have my wife sit in there At least in this car, she can kind of see over the dashboard lol.
#12
The fuel pump and all fuel lines were changed out without any problems. Those wobble extensions REALLY came in handy in a number of places. Thanks to everyone for the helpful information!
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