1973 Omega Restoration with Pontiac ohc6 sprint
#82
The disc brakes for the front should come on Monday - I will now used the Right Stuff Conversion Kits for 14 in. Wheels for the orig Drum Brake Spindle
Then I'll screw the front frame together including the steering linkage. It's great that almost every screws are available newly.
Next week also all parts for the rear drum brakes should pop up. I will than paint the disc caliper, drum and carrier plate black with Por-15 Disc Caliper Paint.
Otherwise I'm still a little undecided about how to continue with the rear end!
The axles are worn at the bearing seat, so axles and bearings must definitely be replaced.
The bearing races from the Diff carrier bearings are also run rough -> so going also to replace these bearings.
Pinion and Ring still look very good (according to the service manual and 44k miles should not be an issue either) and Pinon bearing seam still moving good. To be honest, I don't trust myself to swap the Pinion bearings, nor to install the ring and thus another diff.
Will only change the 4 planetary gears from the Open-Diff, including the bolt.
Then the rear axle should run again without much adjustment or measuring work required.
One more final question: orig. Diff cover or ..?
Then I'll screw the front frame together including the steering linkage. It's great that almost every screws are available newly.
Next week also all parts for the rear drum brakes should pop up. I will than paint the disc caliper, drum and carrier plate black with Por-15 Disc Caliper Paint.
Otherwise I'm still a little undecided about how to continue with the rear end!
The axles are worn at the bearing seat, so axles and bearings must definitely be replaced.
The bearing races from the Diff carrier bearings are also run rough -> so going also to replace these bearings.
Pinion and Ring still look very good (according to the service manual and 44k miles should not be an issue either) and Pinon bearing seam still moving good. To be honest, I don't trust myself to swap the Pinion bearings, nor to install the ring and thus another diff.
Will only change the 4 planetary gears from the Open-Diff, including the bolt.
Then the rear axle should run again without much adjustment or measuring work required.
One more final question: orig. Diff cover or ..?
Last edited by exotec; October 13th, 2020 at 03:04 AM.
#84
painted the parts from the Right Stuff disc brake kit for 14 inch. wheels the last days with POR-15 caliper paint and today finally got it installed! was a quite easy fast forward job.
#88
the Pontiac ohc6 230 sprint was rated with 207 hp at 5200 rpm and 228 lb-ft of torque at 3800 rpm. the rebuild and the headers should add a bit, we will dyno the engine when its final assembled.
#90
Now this is exciting, I can hardly wait to see the dyno numbers. I love how Pontiac made a mundane chebby Straight 6, cool today but very pedestrian back then. Pontiac added a hotter Overhead Cam, 4bbl, high compression with dual exhaust manifolds to make it their own. I can't believe you plan on rocking the 3 on the tree, most convert it to the floor. I never learned to drive Dad's old 66 Ford flat front van that ran awesome with the 250 Straight 6, 3 on the tree. Consider the 3 on the tree a theft deterrent. I am surprised they still had 4 wheel drum brakes on the Omega. Everything looks top notch, I am sure you will enjoy it, very much. I love the dare to be different attitude.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; October 28th, 2020 at 05:34 AM.
#93
Nice and shiny. I see you are planning dual exhaust. You can cut off the Y pipe and replace it with a compact X pipe on the back half of your exhaust system. I did that with my Hooker cat back and replaced the awful Olds crossover pipe with 2.5" duals, a noticeable difference with shorty headers. You basically have shorty headers, dual exhaust should boost performance. Curious, will you have custom down pipes on the dyno? That set up looks better than some but dual exhaust is usually a good gain on nearly any stock system. You should easily surpass the stock gross HP and TQ numbers with better exhaust. Are those 2" pipes off the exhaust manifolds? I noticed no bottom end torque loss on my Olds 260 V8 with 2.5" pipes. Don't be shy increasing the pipe size a bit.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; November 3rd, 2020 at 04:28 AM.
#94
A member of the cammers forum was organizing a production run of Primatech headers and luckily Brent but me on his list for a set around Christmas
will than be finalized with dual 2.5" pipes and Magnaflow XL turbo mufflers
will than be finalized with dual 2.5" pipes and Magnaflow XL turbo mufflers
#95
Those look awesome! It is great when someone makes new, better parts available, especially for a super obscure motor like the Pontiac OHC 6. Man, I should have bought the one for sale here.
#101
I think it looks good, with the relatively flat hood and grill / scoop width being close to thesame along with the black stripe extending to the grill it looks sharp.
the tucked in bumpers, front splitter/spoiler and blinkers in the headlights and mirrors modernises the look with out taking away from the classic appeal.
will you paint it blue black like that or something else?
the tucked in bumpers, front splitter/spoiler and blinkers in the headlights and mirrors modernises the look with out taking away from the classic appeal.
will you paint it blue black like that or something else?
#102
Will be painted wedgewood blue with black vynil top
the headlights with integrated blinkers and the sport mirrors with integrated blinkers I will maybe not get legalized in Austria. If not, than the Omega will have 7" Hella H4 headlights, blinkers in the bumpers and fender and the sport mirrors from the SX package.
the headlights with integrated blinkers and the sport mirrors with integrated blinkers I will maybe not get legalized in Austria. If not, than the Omega will have 7" Hella H4 headlights, blinkers in the bumpers and fender and the sport mirrors from the SX package.
Last edited by exotec; November 19th, 2020 at 09:33 AM.
#103
today I pickedup the body from the thermal paint stripping and dropped it in the body shop - they put a first layer of prime on it and Werner, a mate of mine, will take care about the rust
If you are interested about the thermal paint stripping --> https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ripping-150301
If you are interested about the thermal paint stripping --> https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ripping-150301
#104
Looks great. I would suggest to paint the top black rather than vinyl especially in a high humidity climate. Oldsmobile did factory on some cars, go through some threads when the vinyl top is removed. My 88 Cutlass was bad enough, I think throughing paint on it when it started cracking really saved it. It was a picnic compared to some other cars, like cut and replace half the roof.
#105
It had originally a Vinyl top, but this seems was gone already years ago! Therfore only 1 rust spot on the roof area is incredible!
Last edited by exotec; November 21st, 2020 at 08:05 AM.
#110
Extremely lucky. I think the black painted roof will look just as good without worrying if your car is rotting away under a rust hoarding diaper. Make yourself plastic bag underwear. See how your junk looks after a few days not being able to breathe😁. Then think of your cars roof sitting it for years.
#111
I'd stay away from vinyl tops. Back then, this kitschy fad was only some prestige vanity for impressing neighbors. If you absolutely need to duplicate its former style, there's the possibility of using plastic wrap of which shouldn't harbor moisture, if undamaged
#113
For those members from further south, bagging some invasive species anacondas and pythons would not only bring delicious steaks and bounty. Freebie top skins could also be had. For those of them who are too comfortable, fake sheets are also available:
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; November 24th, 2020 at 12:33 PM.
#118
Spent a couple of hours today in West's workshop and then while we had a garage beer he came along with some pictures oh his vintage US car
1929 Studebaker Commander with a inline 8 flathead.
Imported in the 50s by a Viennese master butcher and rescued from a barn by Werner 24 years ago and started a complete restoration. Frame completely dismantled, every single rivet opened and renewed, rims dismantled, got rid off the paint from wooden spokes and set back in just nature, etc.
Unfortunately, the project has been dormant for 8 years since he became self-employed - it just had to be put together and the 6V electrics made new.
1929 Studebaker Commander with a inline 8 flathead.
Imported in the 50s by a Viennese master butcher and rescued from a barn by Werner 24 years ago and started a complete restoration. Frame completely dismantled, every single rivet opened and renewed, rims dismantled, got rid off the paint from wooden spokes and set back in just nature, etc.
Unfortunately, the project has been dormant for 8 years since he became self-employed - it just had to be put together and the 6V electrics made new.