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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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98 questions

1. According to 442.com the 1982 computer will work with a 350 as long as the cam isnt too wild. Mine seems to have worked for about 5,000 miles so far. Wouldnt my car be "happier" with the stock electronic q-jet, esp with the cold wi winters? The A4 intake has all the sensors hooked up and, minus the emissions bs, it would then have all the other inputs, so to speak.

2. I know the ECM controls idle speed via the q-jet, and I think part-idle...ive recently read the carb sends the ECM a signal that allows the 200-4R to lock-up...anything else? Im thinking the car will run better and get much better mpg with the q-jet. What do you think? Ive also been told (by a chevy guy) that the 2 connectors that plug into the q-jet, being "un-used", could cause the "limp-home" mode. What do you think of that?

3. Whats the best way to remove a freeze plug? My dad and most others say to drill it and then pull it out with a bolt, others (Mondello) say to tap one side into the block and pull it out. I saw a bottle of "cooling-system stop-leak" at Lowes for about $8. Is it worth a try? Have you tried the new rubber freeze plugs with the bolt that tightens them?

4. Is 750 cfm too much for an Olds 350? Ive heard several numbers but the guy at a local GM place (with Oldsmobile still on their highway sign. thus my call), said that "99% of the GM stock q-jets were roughly 670 cfm".
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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According to 442.com the 1982 computer will work with a 350 as long as the cam isnt too wild.
I don't know about that. IMHO, if you have an aftermarket cam in your car you shouldn't even consider using the ECM.

Ive also been told (by a chevy guy) that the 2 connectors that plug into the q-jet, being "un-used", could cause the "limp-home" mode.
This is true. Your car was running poorly with the CCC Q-jet because it was in "limp-home" mode.

Whats the best way to remove a freeze plug?
With the engine on a stand rotate the engine so the freeze plug is facing up. Tap one side of the freeze plug with a punch and force it to rotate into the block. Then grab the freeze plug with a pair of vise grips and remove it from the block.

saw a bottle of "cooling-system stop-leak" at Lowes for about $8. Is it worth a try?
Might as well. It won't hurt anything, but you will probably have to eventually replace the freeze plug.

Have you tried the new rubber freeze plugs with the bolt that tightens them?
I have not.

Is 750 cfm too much for an Olds 350?
No. The engine will only use as much cfm as it needs.

99% of the GM stock q-jets were roughly 670 cfm
I've never heard that before. As far as I know there were only two Q-jet cfm ratings: 750 and 800 cfm.
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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[quote=Olds64;106882]I don't know about that. IMHO, if you have an aftermarket cam in your car you shouldn't even consider using the ECM.

so i should just yank out the computer? doesnt it still control the distributor?



This is true. Your car was running poorly with the CCC Q-jet because it was in "limp-home" mode.

Ive never actually used the q-jet on the 350. (both of the q-jets from the auto parts store had started leaking, so i tried the edelbrock and have used it since. So I should just stick with the edelbrock?
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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I am confused...

You can't piece together old and new parts on an Olds engine. If you take off one piece of emissions equipment you have to take them all off. This includes the computer controlled distributor. I suggest you use the Edelbrock carb and make sure the points distributor is in your car. This should get you going.
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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Oops. Ive been using the distributor from the 307 for about 4 years now.
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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I may have mis-spoken when I said I removed ALL the emissions stuff. I still have the TPS, coolant temp sensor, the silly fuel evap canister at the front, EGR vavle, Pressure differential sensor, BARO sensor, and Elect Spark Timing. Im 99% sure I have the Oxygen sensor as its upstream of the cat converter, which had a huge hole in the bottom thus me removing it.

Due to no q-jet, I do NOT have the Idle Speed Control nor the Idle Speed Solenoid. The Mixture Control solenoid I suspect isnt working/there because of no q-jet.

With the exception of the a.i.r. pump and the exhaust manifolds "internal extension tubes" being removed, I hope I still have enough to keep my ECU happy. I have all this info from the trusty haynes manual.


The part I meantioned about being on 442.com:



You don't have to dump the 307's computer controlled carb at all. Doug Roe's Rochester Carb book has a good chapter on modifying an electronic Q-jet (which, of course, is computer controlled); highly recommended as a reference for anyone doing work on a Q-jet. Only part-throttle and idle is controlled by the computer, which formerly was controlled by vacuum on a non-electronic Q-jet; everything else (accelerator pump, secondary barrels) is "open loop", so the same mods for an older Q-jet apply there as well. In fact, as long as your 350's cam isn't too wild, the computer should be able to compensate for the extra 43 cubic inches. You could use a stock 307 intake, or probably even a Performer, as long as you have the hookups for the lines and sensors. Whatever the case, even a mild 350 will be a big improvement.
Old Sep 11, 2009 | 06:30 AM
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Good luck. I've already told you what I think and know from experience.
Old Sep 11, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
Good luck. I've already told you what I think and know from experience.
Dont worry, Im stubborn as hell but always admit when Im wrong. So would you just yank out the computer and "run" it all mechanically?

I just REALLY want to keep the computer, if at all possible. Im thinking of buying the 1982-1989ish code reader from the trusty Summit or Jegs catalog and seeing just what problems the ECM is experiencing.
Old Sep 11, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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Im not sure if this means anything at all, but my check engine light has never came on since ive had the 350, which is about 4 years and about 5,000 miles on it. Im wanting to go back to q-jet to keep it as stock as possible and also to help give me a few more mpg's.

Im here to learn.
Old Sep 12, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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You should be able to short the A and B terminal of your data port together with a paper clip to get the ECM to flash codes. The check engine light will flash 1 - 2, 1 - 2, 1 - 2 and then flash any stored codes it has three times. It does codes in sequence until it is done and then flashes 1 -2, 1 - 2, 1 - 2. Code 12 just means that the ECM is functioning and reading codes.
Old Sep 12, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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Oh wow, thank you sir. I have the "code-list" in the Haynes manual so I will do that shortly. So stick one end in A and one end of the paper clip in B and hop in the car with a pen and paper? Do I need to have the key in and turned at all?

I REALLY appreciate your help, good sir.
Old Sep 12, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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I remember back in 1994 when I got my first car, a 1985 Eldorado, I could just press 3 radio buttons to get the code and thought that was pretty cool. I think your little paper clip trick will save me the $30 on the scanner.

Once i do get a q-jet im eager to see the differences in the codes versus the 'brock".
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