My 1968 Olds 98 convt came with keys that do not fit in the door locks. Bottom line, I cannot lock the doors. I have called around to auto locksmith but none want to touch the car. One recommended that I buy off ebay new door locks and he will charge me $135 per door panel to replace the new locks. I wanted to see how difficult it is to removal the door panel and then replace the door locks. I did a search but could not find any threads on this topic on the forum.

 

You are trying the ignition key in the door locks, not the trunk key, right?

 

None of the keys work in both the door locks. The ignition key works in the trunk lock.

 

A 1968 Oldsmobile should use a "C" code octagonal key blank for the ignition and door locks and a round (some say pear-shaped) "D" code key blank for the trunk and glovebox. If that's not the case, your locks have been mucked with.

 

Yes they have been mucked with. Now it seems the only way to sort it is to spend $35.00 for a new set of door locks and then any additional amount for removal of the door panel.

 

Removing the door panel is easy. Does the car have power or manual windows?

 

It has power windows

 

Pictures of the front door (inside view)

 

Ah, you still have a vent window crank. You'll need this tool to release that crank from the shaft.



After that, you need to find all the phillips head screws holding the door panel on. There are 4-5 hidden in the carpet at the bottom, along with a number of them sprinkled around the arm rest and the pull handle. The Fisher Body Manual will guide you. This is an example page from the 1967 FBM.

 

Thanks Joe. I will look into the FBM for 1968. Is there a chance that the retaining nail and the plastic retainer cup might get damaged (old age). Do I need to order some of these and keep them on hand. Once the door panel is removed, is any special tool required to remove the door lock and replace with new one.

 

I'm not sure if your 68 used the nail style retainers or the formed clips like this:


I've never had a problem with this style, but I have had some of the nail style retainers come apart. In either case, replacements are available. Your biggest problem is that you need to very carefully pull the door panel away from the shell to separate those retainers. It's easy to tear the cardboard where the retainer clips in. Use one of the trim separator tools if possible.



The door lock is held to the door skin with a flat U-shaped retainer that slides in on the backside. I use a channel lock pliers to pull it out.

 

I had the same problem with my cutlass. I took the door lock cylinder with the key to my local lock smith and had them re-key the lock. I think it was $25 to do it. I am thinking the locksmith doesn't want to take your door apart.

 

Joe is right on the money as always...You have the nail style. The plastic arm rest bases are pretty fragile, so I wanted to point out that there are hidden screws under those brushed aluminum trim pieces. Remove the visible Phillips screws that hold them, and slide the trim off. Don’t pry on them...they slide on. Once removed, you will see some holes that contain Phillips screws that you will need to remove. Having 2 of these cars, I probably can do this in my sleep...It’s not hard, and I think I’ve got most of what you need to do, Here is a list of things to remove: (window glass up and battery disconnected)

-lock **** - unscrew—
-inside door handle (2 screws)—
- if equipped, remote mirror bezel...2 screws and then the plastic c-clip that holds the **** Assy. to the bezel,—
-vent window crank as Joe showed you
-screws for door-pull
-screws for the two brushed aluminum trim pieces...slide the trim pieces off.
-screws under those trim pieces
-one screw in the door handle pocket (behind the now removed handle)
-2 screws on power window/seat controls bezel...lift it up and remove connectors from the switches. If you have power door locks, also remove vacuum hoses from the switch. They should be color coded but look before you remove. Take pictures and mark the hoses if you are not sure.
-remove 4 or 5 screws at the bottom of the door panel In the carpet area.
-pry the sides loose working from the bottom up...this is where the “nails” hold the panels against the door
-lift the panel enough so that you can disconnect the door courtesy lamp wiring connector (orange/white wires)
-lift the panel off of the door...it might want to stay connected across the top so be patient.

Now you can remove the water shield paper and get your arm contorted to reach the lock cylinder clip that Joe showed. Hope this helps...Dave