1966 98 AC questions

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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 01:38 PM
  #1  
The Flash's Avatar
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From: Dallas
1966 98 AC questions

1966 olds 98 convertible with 425 ( ya i know drop the top if your hot)

The car has factory AC and i wanted to get it working
changed all the orings, receiver drier and recharged it but it lasted only one week and it was not very cold before the Freon leaked out.
i know the POA valve has to be adjusted and mine does have the screw
i tried to adjust it but then i found out that the condenser is not very good for 134a as well
so
i was going to buy a rebuilt POA from classic autoair a new S6 compressor that is supposed to work with 134A and a new condenser, expansion valve and evaporator
questions
1. if i replace all these parts can i loose the 2 ac mufflers on the passenger side fender? to clean up the bay
2. where can i get a condenser that is going to fit with out modifying the connections.
3. where can i find a new evaporator core in the AC box
4. anyone referb theirs and have part numbers or links i can take a look at
or advice
thanks
Old Jan 25, 2016 | 07:30 PM
  #2  
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First thing is to find out where the leak is . Put enough freon in the system to pressurize it.
Get an electronic leak detector and go over the system thouroghly. Freon is heavier than air so try to run the detector under the components. If the evaporator is leaking the leak should be detected at the evaporator drain . oil will often leak along with freon so look for oily spots especially at the compressor clutch area. Repair or replace any leaking components.
Who told you that the condenser was not good for 134A ? If the condenser is in good condition it will work with R-134A just fine.
If you're converting a R-12 system to R-134A the system must be thoroughly flushed and all the old mineral oil used with the R-12 must be removed from the entire system . The compressor must be drained and all components must be thoughly flushed with mineral spirits . After the system is re-assembled pull a vacuum for at least two hours to make sure all the mineral spirits are removed.
The compressor should be refilled to spec with PAG oil.
The fifty year old hoses may be leaking and probably should be replaced with new ones anyway that are more compatible with R-134. The hose mufflers can be eliminated but be prepared for some strange noises as they were put there for a reason.
If you decide to buy a new POA valve , tell Classi autoair that you are going to R-134 so they can adjust it for you. Same thing with the expansion valve.
If the receiver-dryer was exposed to mineral oil it should be replaced with another new one.
Unless the original evaporator is leaking it should be just fine.

Last edited by Charlie Jones; Jan 25, 2016 at 07:39 PM.
Old Mar 8, 2016 | 04:59 AM
  #3  
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its been a while but i put dye in it and cant find the leak.
Also the actuator for the heater door in the middle of the dash is broken where can i find one or something that will work.

This compressor any good? Pro6TEN, A6 Upgrade, H.P., 1 Groove, Natural Aluminum or should i just stick with a stock one.
thanks
Old Mar 8, 2016 | 05:08 AM
  #4  
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It is normal for the compressor seal to leak just a little but it could be bad and that could be your leak. Before charging with refrigerant you need to pull a vacuum and then see if the system holds for at least an hour to be sure you have no big leaks. Not sure but I think the 66 used an expansion valve for the metering device. If your compressor is 66 vintage it would not be a bad idea to replace it but I would go with a stock style compressor.
Old Mar 8, 2016 | 06:50 PM
  #5  
Charlie Jones's Avatar
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The dye is ok for big leaks in places where it can be easily seen. But , an electronic leak detector is much more efficient. If you are going to do your own A/C work then beg, borrow, or buy one.
If I were you, I wouldn't waste any money on a new compressor until you are sure that the old one is defective.
With a properly charged system, on a 75 degree day, the high side pressure should be between 150 to 175 PSI and the low side should be between 30 to 45 PSI. On a really hot 95+ day the high side could go as high as 250 PSI. The low side should never be more than 45 PSI with the system running. Anything outside of these parameters could indicate compressor failure.
If you do replace the compressor it is best to stick with a stock one.

Is this the door actuator you are looking for?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-19...PpY00Q&vxp=mtr

Last edited by Charlie Jones; Mar 8, 2016 at 06:56 PM.
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