Its getting to cold here in Lansing, MI to be outside working on the project car so I've recently put it away for the winter. Looking for some help with engine parts as far as what is missing and what I should replace! Just got my free Catalog in the mail from Original Parts Group. Very nice catalog for being free, tons of parts!

Check out the pics and I'd appreciate it if you could leave me a list of parts any of you see that are missing. I appologize that these are the only two pics of it that I have, wanted to get some more detailed pics of it but I put it up before thinking about taking a few more detailed pics. Any help is appreciated! Thanks

 

Well, the air cleaner's the wrong color, you're missing the hot air tube from the right side exhaust manifold to the air cleaner, the spark plug wires are the wrong color, you're missing the PCV plumbing from the left valve cover to the air cleaner, and you're missing your A/C compressor, brackets, and high-pressure line, for starters.

- Eric

 

Yeah the Air cleaner I repainted and ordered that decal for it, not sure if I'm going to paint it black and re order the decal or just leave it, depends on what my dad wants to do.

Thanks for the list! I'm going through the catalog now!

As far as the compressor missing, if I plan on doing an A/C delete and buying the cover for it will I really need the compressor? We live in MI, never really gets hot enough to use the AC, windows down, the wind blowing and some speed is about as much AC as we would need

-R.J.

 

If you don't want the A/C, then you don't need the A/C parts (though you may want the heater parts).

I was just playing "Where's Waldo."

- Eric

 

And be careful with that OPG catalog. Just because they say a part is for an Olds of a particular year, it might not be. They often list Chevy parts as being used on Olds, usually minor parts. Brothers and Parts place have done this also.

 

Washer pump hoses missing from pump to resevoir & to squirters on hood, inner fender seals(rubber flaps), rubber fuel line from pump to 2 bbl carb, should be preformed steel line.

 

I belive that a 72 with air should have a fan shroud and upper radiator hose clamp also.

 

If you remove the A/c box under the hood and install the A/C delete plate you can still use your heater. Just keep the heater hoses hooked up and the controls on the dash working. Fresh air will come thru the A/C vents when A/C mode.

Gene

 

Awesome! It also looks like going the route of doing an A/C delete will be cheaper anyways.

Thanks for playin Eric!

- R.J.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I'll have to try to read a few reviews before ordering then to make sure. I also downloaded the Fusick catalog to my comp, would you suggest Fusick over OPGI?

Thanks

- R.J.

 

Packrat,

yes I think you are talking about the A-Arms seals, I have been looking around for some but I think I will go ahead and buy brand new ones. Good catch! Thanks for playing! Sounds like I'm missing a lot of hoses. Not sure what the guy before me was doing with the thing but its in good hands now!

- R.J.

 

Yes sir I pulled the fan shroud out when I cleaned up the motor when i first brought it home. I ended up selling it, planning on buying a new one, depending on what my dad wants to do we may end up buying all new radiator equipment.

 

Nice! Thanks for the tip! have you ever done an A/C delete? Just from looking it over with the bare eye it doesnt seem like it would be to hard to do, then again I cant read a book by its cover. Hoping its not something too difficult to handle, we've got plenty of tools.

 

Found an Ebrock 750 online, used. The guy wants $150.00 for it but I havent seen a pic of it yet. Will I need an adapter to fit this carb on there? And is it a good buy? He says its like new but could be cleaned and comes with the manual and DVD

Thanks

- R.J.

 

If that is a stock 350 the 750 carb is going to be to big. IMO 600-650 CFM should be plenty. be that as it may, IF the carb is in good shape that is a good buy. (again IMO)

 

Here is a few of my 70 350 engine bay, besides typical replacement parts, this roughly 95% unmolested factory.
Yes, the brake booster and master could use a cleanup and replate also hose clamps are not factory and push pin for upper radiator hose support is not in place, like I said mainly unmolested. reference orignal factory tune up decal and whats left of the radiator cap factory seal also has a dealer decal for prep for delivery (not in picture)

Pat

 

So, you want to change from 2-bbl to 4-bbl carb?

I can tell you where to get a proper factory QJet here in Lansing

 

Oh ok, I'll have to keep an eye out for one of those! Thanks

- R.J.

 

Thanks for the pics! I think it may be warm enough here in Lansing to get outside tomorrow and compare these pics, and maybe do a little shopping at the parts store to pic up some of these missing items! Thanks!

- R.J.

 

Yes, I've got the stock 2-bbl rochester carb on there at the moment. I've been thinking about pulling it off and buying a rebuilt kit for it, but I also want to upgrade. Will I need an adapter of some kind to switch my carb?

 

No, you'll need an intake manifold.

- Eric

 

Ok, well looks like I'm getting myself into a little more than I thought with changing out this carb, I thought there may have been an adapter or something wasnt aware I'd have to get a new intake manifold as well. May just pull it off and get a rebuild kit for now.

I'm sure we will end up rebuilding this thing, new carb, cam, pistons, headers, etc. the motor runs just fine as is, not trying to make it a drag car, but I want it run/sound better than a grocery getter, and get it a little more HP out of it.