Saying hi and asking for a little help.
Saying hi and asking for a little help.
Hello and thanks to everyone that keeps all of these sites and cars going.
So, about 15 years ago when I was 16 I bought a 1970 Cutlass because I thought it looked cool. It came with a 455 Rocket, Ram Air Hood, Rear spoiler and it was yellow with black stripes. I later found that it was a Rallye 350. After what was an expensive engine rebuild for an 17-18 year old, I drove the car during the summer and to car shows. After about 2500 miles the engine blew. Spun a bearing, or to be precise shattered a bearing. After years of sitting due to my interests changing to other things and now having a wife and kids, I think it is time to sell. I listed it on Craigslist and after talking to a gentleman from FL, we found out that the car is NOT a Rallye 350 but a clone. I just want to get the right price for what the car is without taking anyone for a fool or anyone taking me for a fool. I do not know where else to turn except for all you guys on here that have the years of experience. The car has a solid frame, good interior, and the rust that is on the car is not too bad. The engine is not in the car and is disassembled. I know there are a lot of details that I haven't listed. Any help is greatly appreciated.
So, about 15 years ago when I was 16 I bought a 1970 Cutlass because I thought it looked cool. It came with a 455 Rocket, Ram Air Hood, Rear spoiler and it was yellow with black stripes. I later found that it was a Rallye 350. After what was an expensive engine rebuild for an 17-18 year old, I drove the car during the summer and to car shows. After about 2500 miles the engine blew. Spun a bearing, or to be precise shattered a bearing. After years of sitting due to my interests changing to other things and now having a wife and kids, I think it is time to sell. I listed it on Craigslist and after talking to a gentleman from FL, we found out that the car is NOT a Rallye 350 but a clone. I just want to get the right price for what the car is without taking anyone for a fool or anyone taking me for a fool. I do not know where else to turn except for all you guys on here that have the years of experience. The car has a solid frame, good interior, and the rust that is on the car is not too bad. The engine is not in the car and is disassembled. I know there are a lot of details that I haven't listed. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hard to say without looking closer at the details and options on the car. Is the hood factory? Do you have the complete OAI set up? Buckets & console? A list of options would be helpful.
Limited slip rear and ratio? Interior condition etc...
From what you told us the car is a cutlass with some possible desirable parts. It will inevitably come down to how bad someone wants it. Give us a list of options/parts, details on engine (heads/intake/carb) honest description of rust on body and frame. Maybe post the VIN and cowl tag info also along with any paper work. Price could really range but details would help.
Limited slip rear and ratio? Interior condition etc...
From what you told us the car is a cutlass with some possible desirable parts. It will inevitably come down to how bad someone wants it. Give us a list of options/parts, details on engine (heads/intake/carb) honest description of rust on body and frame. Maybe post the VIN and cowl tag info also along with any paper work. Price could really range but details would help.
The first thing I'd do is post a pic of the cowl tag and ask the experts here. No one was cloning Rallye 350's 15 years ago. Hardly anyone is doing it now. They made over 3000 of them (not particularily rare) and didn't enjoy widespead popularity until recently.
They range in price from about $4k for one needing a restoration to over $25k for a nice one. If it isn't a Rallye the Cutlass' aren't bringing much less money anyway
They range in price from about $4k for one needing a restoration to over $25k for a nice one. If it isn't a Rallye the Cutlass' aren't bringing much less money anyway
I do not have the oai cleaner. I'm not sure if the hood is oem or aftermarket. It has a 12 bolt rear end that I would say is limited slip. It would catch posi every now and then but mostly one wheel burnouts.
Cool car for high school eh
Your body tag shows:
body style 33687=cutlass holiday hardtop (lansing mich. build)
paint code 48 = sherwood green lower body color
paint code 45 = aspen green upper body colour
interior trim 932 = green vinyl bucket seats
a genuine rallye 350 would have a 350 rocket engine, and paint code of 51 (sebring yellow) or no paint code at all.
someone did complete swap over of parts and interior to make your car look like a rallye 350 (ish) but with more horsepower. your hood looks like an original GM part and bumper looks like a GM rallye parts too.
As to value as it sits, can't really say. It is a clone, but has lots of rare parts.
This could be just a case of the parts are worth more than the original car.
Put it on ebay with a reserve price and see how hi the bids go???

Your body tag shows:
body style 33687=cutlass holiday hardtop (lansing mich. build)
paint code 48 = sherwood green lower body color
paint code 45 = aspen green upper body colour
interior trim 932 = green vinyl bucket seats
a genuine rallye 350 would have a 350 rocket engine, and paint code of 51 (sebring yellow) or no paint code at all.
someone did complete swap over of parts and interior to make your car look like a rallye 350 (ish) but with more horsepower. your hood looks like an original GM part and bumper looks like a GM rallye parts too.
As to value as it sits, can't really say. It is a clone, but has lots of rare parts.
This could be just a case of the parts are worth more than the original car.
Put it on ebay with a reserve price and see how hi the bids go???
The sequential number on the cowl tag is the body number used by Fisher Body. It is assigned to the body shell long before the VIN is assigned to the assembled car. There is no connection between the two on ANY GM-built car.
The parts that SHOULD match are the year, body style, and assembly plant, although there is even an exception to that for Oldsmobile. During the 1968-69 model years (and ONLY during those two model years), Olds built 442s that came with 344xxx VINs and 336xxx cowl tags. This is well documented in factory literature from those years.
The parts that SHOULD match are the year, body style, and assembly plant, although there is even an exception to that for Oldsmobile. During the 1968-69 model years (and ONLY during those two model years), Olds built 442s that came with 344xxx VINs and 336xxx cowl tags. This is well documented in factory literature from those years.
Ill throw number out there as noted some rarer parts are on the car, engine in pieces lets assume paint interior sheetmetal etc are driver quality.
ill say between 4-8k as it sits naturally 4k quicker sale 8k would take longer. . theres plenty of similar running cutlasses to be had in that range...good condition OEM OAI hoods sell for 1500-2200 bucks
ill say between 4-8k as it sits naturally 4k quicker sale 8k would take longer. . theres plenty of similar running cutlasses to be had in that range...good condition OEM OAI hoods sell for 1500-2200 bucks
You guys are awesome. Thanks for all the input and the quick responses. I would be very happy to get 6-7k. I really wasn't sure about it. So it looks like I'm not being unreasonable.
oh yeah also has 70 only sport mirrors generally ~250 or more for a complete set-up...if you have some time search cl throw in a running 350 (any year olds motor) and you will likely get more and have a faster sale w a car that at least runs
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