Hi, New guy here with a carb and intake question. My 72 cutlass needs to have the original Rochester 2jet rebuilt but I am wondering if I should rebuild the 2bbl or upgrade to a edelbrock intake and 4bbl carb. The Rocket 350 engine is stock with 57,000 miles on it. A little bit more power would be nice and couldnt I get better gas mileage with a edelbrock setup vs the stock 2bbl setup?

 

I just went the route of the Edelbrock and Quadrajet along with the Edelbrock Performer Camshaft, Hooker Headers, re-worked heads... My car sure seems to run a lot better, but again it was a part of several upgrades. I had the quadrajet that I used restored by Bob Stone of Classic Carbs. I think it might possibly get better gas mileage if I baby it, it couldn't get too much worse. - Steven

 

Don't get me wrong Edelbrock carbs are fine. I think you'll find better performance and economy with a Rochester 4v and it will bolt right up to most Edelbrock manifolds. I've used both.

 

Welcome to CO Robert.

The 2GC carb is fairly reliable and not hard to rebuild. You could always try rebuilding it (low cost and effort) to see if you're overall happy with the performance. Keep in mind that part of the performance is also related to not only carb, but engine health and driveline. Are you sure the engine only has 57K miles? These cars only have a 5 digit odometer so you'd need evidence such as maintenance records to determine true mileage. I'd also do a compression test to see what's up there.

Another factor that can limit performance is the rear gear set in your differential. If it's a 2.56:1, even with a 4 bbl it will be a slug. But if you have a 2.73, 2.93 or 3.08 it will be much peppier.

What's the whole story with your car?

 

I agree with Allan. It would be worth it to rebuild the 2jet before swapping to an aftermarket carburetor. If you do go with an aftermarket carburetor I suggest the Summit carb over the Edelbrock. I run one on my 71 98 and it runs great.

 

I agree with Allan, too.

No big deal or expense to rebuild the 2-Jet, and it's a good, simple carburetor.

There has been debate on this subject, but a low-compression 350 (as opposed to a 455) may not see a significant performance gain from a 2bbl to 4bbl change (yes, if you also add headers, dual exhausts, etc., you may get more of a bump).

- Eric

 

This car was owned by a Old woman for most of its life before I got it so I am almost certain that it has just 57000 on it since she only drove it to get grocerys and rarely drove it anywhere else. I dont know what rear gears the car has but as far as engine health it is strong and runs super smooth. I did replace that crap super quiet single exhaust with a 2.25" true dual setup and that was a big upgrade as it really opened it up and thats why I was thinking about the edelbrock upgrade over the 2jet.

 

I'd still spend the small money (and effort) on the 2-Jet first, and consider the 4bbl after seeing how that works.

You may be happy with it.

- Eric

 

I got a quote from Spark's carbs and he said $235 for a basic rebuild. Is that a good deal? The idea of having the carb cleaned and rebuild by a pro is very appealing since it has years of crude built up on it. But for that kind of money I would have to stick with the 2bbl setup and forget the edelbrock stuff. Is this 2jet simple enough that I could rebuild it myself and actually put it all back together with no experience rebuilding carbs?

 

No disrepect, but you could do it yourself for the price of a carb kit and some carb cleaner. Yes, it's really that easy. You can even check out some how to (DIY) vids on the web if you need that? 2GC carb rebuild link If you're planning on spending that kind of money to have someone rebuild it you may as well just start looking at new intakes and carbs.

Sparky has a great reputation and will stand behind his work, but IMO 235 + shipping for a rebuild is high on a 2GC

 

+1.

Just go out and buy a kit for $20 and a float for $10 and rebuild it.

Don't make this more complicated or expensive than it needs to be.

- Eric

 

I always recommend going to a Holley 500 2BBL, there is a very simple adapter plate and it bolts right on, very little linkage problems and the car will run so much better you won't believe it's the same car.
I have done this on 2 Oldsmobiles and an old Camaro and it worked perfect all 3 times.

 

No. Try to find a buddy that can help you on the weekend for dinner and a case of beer.

 

A case? I'd feel guilty asking for more than a six-pack.

- Eric

 

Ok, I'll take the other 6

 

I've got a box full of these carbs, I know at least one came off a 455. I plan to post a parts for sale ad listing them for $15 each. They would also need a kit but I agree with the other guys that they're a pretty simple carb. If yours has real problems I can provide the application numbers I've got and maybe one of the other guys can help key out the best one. John

 

Try the rebuild if you want to, that is a good carburetor to learn from. What is the symptom that makes it a need a rebuild? I'm not saying that it doesn't as it probably does; but we may be able to help identify what to look for and correct.

Get a kit and float as suggested, follow a manual, take many pictures, study the linkages and mark where they attach before disassembling, remove the venturi cluster and the check ball below and replace the ball with the exact same size, don't throw anything away until you are done, note the position of each gasket and its orientation and compare the old gaskets with the new ones. The holes in the gaskets must be an exact match.

The kits often supply extra parts so expect some unused items.

About better fuel economy, it may be able to be achieved if the replacement four barrel is a spread bore design with small primaries AND... the right foot is kept out of the secondaries/new found power from the four barrel. Otherwise, the fuel economy could be worse.

 

Its hard to start when the engine is warm, I have to hold the pedal to the floor and turn it over for a while before it starts and It has a hesitation at lower rpms and runs kind of rough at speeds about 55 sometimes as well.

 

Has it had a basic tune-up? Plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, filters, timing and dwell adjustments? The hesitation and hard start could be carburetor and/or tune-up related but the rough running at speeds is probably tune-up/ignition related and not the carburetor. If not already done, a tune-up would be the place to start.