New. Saved a 98 convertible and made it a manual
#1
New. Saved a 98 convertible and made it a manual
I have read a few of these forums and great questions and info shared here. So I thought I would join since I have now have a 64 98 vert. That I saved or am in the middle of saving. Was show car 18 years ago. I saw the pictures and trophies and sadly enough I found it sitting in a field just west of where I live. No engine and missing one skirt. A family member took it for a joy ride and blew engine and just a series of bad events ended with car sitting, tore apart and rotting and engine basically disappearing. My original plan was an olds motor, not a 394 but may be 455 with 400 and just make it a nice cruiser. Unfortunately my financial situation is not as good as it was when I owned my own shop a few years ago and now have 3 grandkids under my roof. So I had a lot of things still left over from decades of fixing and restoring old cars but usually ones that were easier to find donors or transfer parts to.
Anyway. I used clutch pedals from a nova and thanks to my plasma cutter made them fit. Used a booster and master from a ranger so I had small booster but still have power brakes, it also let rod clear through firewall, I used a Muncie 4 speed and a 350 chevy 60 over. I made engine mount bases from 1/4 inch steel (lowes) and gate hardware(lowes) so engine and trans would sit low enough and be on plain with rear end. I used late 60s engine mounts. I had to cut floor for shifter and linkage clearance. I used a cross member from a crown vic and drilled holes to accomodate the 2 hole trans mount. I made perches for cross member from 1/4 steel and 90 degree steel pieces (lowes) and it worked out great. Now clutch ball on side of block or bell housing would not clear column. If had money to blow, maybe a hydraulic set up could have worked but I used what I had. I used z bar from 74 novab cut part of it, re drilled hole in top arm, drilled a hole lower on clutch lever and made a plate to relocate pivot ball to clear steering column. I cut a hole in drivers fender well and made a bracket for z bar from original power steering bracket. Drill, cut, twist and attach to frame. Clutch works great. I put in a new 12 inch clutch setup before engine and trans in. I also had to cut 3/4 of am inch of thread off of adjustment for clutch so I have a bit of free play. Now exhaust was an issue as z bar in back and gear box close so. I used center drop iron exhaust manifolds from corvette or chevelle I had laying around. And they clear everything perfect.even my Speedo cable to left front wheel. I used a setup like 71 chevelle 350 so I have long water pump, power steering and the big a6 air conditioning compressor so I still will have A/C. As of today, I am pulling it all back out to weld in platesb trim and paint engine compartment single stage gloss black. Outside paint will be mettalic red, mettalic black and silver. Interior black with saddle colored seats and have done parts of dash mettalic black, gold and wood grain trim.
Anyway. I used clutch pedals from a nova and thanks to my plasma cutter made them fit. Used a booster and master from a ranger so I had small booster but still have power brakes, it also let rod clear through firewall, I used a Muncie 4 speed and a 350 chevy 60 over. I made engine mount bases from 1/4 inch steel (lowes) and gate hardware(lowes) so engine and trans would sit low enough and be on plain with rear end. I used late 60s engine mounts. I had to cut floor for shifter and linkage clearance. I used a cross member from a crown vic and drilled holes to accomodate the 2 hole trans mount. I made perches for cross member from 1/4 steel and 90 degree steel pieces (lowes) and it worked out great. Now clutch ball on side of block or bell housing would not clear column. If had money to blow, maybe a hydraulic set up could have worked but I used what I had. I used z bar from 74 novab cut part of it, re drilled hole in top arm, drilled a hole lower on clutch lever and made a plate to relocate pivot ball to clear steering column. I cut a hole in drivers fender well and made a bracket for z bar from original power steering bracket. Drill, cut, twist and attach to frame. Clutch works great. I put in a new 12 inch clutch setup before engine and trans in. I also had to cut 3/4 of am inch of thread off of adjustment for clutch so I have a bit of free play. Now exhaust was an issue as z bar in back and gear box close so. I used center drop iron exhaust manifolds from corvette or chevelle I had laying around. And they clear everything perfect.even my Speedo cable to left front wheel. I used a setup like 71 chevelle 350 so I have long water pump, power steering and the big a6 air conditioning compressor so I still will have A/C. As of today, I am pulling it all back out to weld in platesb trim and paint engine compartment single stage gloss black. Outside paint will be mettalic red, mettalic black and silver. Interior black with saddle colored seats and have done parts of dash mettalic black, gold and wood grain trim.
Last edited by 6498HO4speed; May 10th, 2018 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Unfinished
#7
#9
Updated 4 speed 98 pics
i posted some pics under non olds powered but here is a few of rough mock up. pedal in, engine on 'HO" MADE mount stands and crossmember from crown vic holding trans, etc... i have more pics and can send one if you want to see something in particular.
Last edited by 6498HO4speed; February 4th, 2023 at 10:02 AM.
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