Muncie Problem or Clutch?
Muncie Problem or Clutch?
So I got the engine running on the 67 442 project. I fiddled with the clutch adjustment and it feels good. Here is the problem. While the engine is running I cannot shift into any gear. If I force the shifter the gears grind. I can only get the car to move by shifting while the engine is off then starting the engine with the clutch to the floor. I let out the clutch and it grabs about midway off the floor. If I remember correctly I cannot get it out of gear to neutral unless the engine is off. Everything is new with the clutch however the throwout bearing is rather noisy and sounds dry and I am pretty sure I have all the correct components in there with a new disc and diaphram pressure plate. I notice too that when I start the engine with clutch pressed the car will move very slightly...like the 1/4 inch and then stop. So is my clutch dragging somehow and not giving full release or is the trans bad or some other clutch component not right. I never had a problem such as this before and the condition of the trans is unknown. Thanks
If not simply adjustment, the clutch hub can be bent. This commonly happens when the weight of the tranny is "hung" off the input while engaged in the disk but not installed that last half inch into the pilot bearing. I always use 4" bolts with the heads cut off, ends chamferred and saw cut so a screwdriver can turn them, as alignment dowels to install the trans.
A second contributor is bell housing misalignment, a very common occurrence. use a dial indicator and get the big hole as close to dead on as possible; I shoot for not over .001" or so total indicator readout with a dial indicator. You can drill and tap the factory dowels 5/16 x 18 and pull with a slide hammer and use the offset Lakewood dowels to get the housing aligned (drill and tap them too so you can remove them the same way).
A second contributor is bell housing misalignment, a very common occurrence. use a dial indicator and get the big hole as close to dead on as possible; I shoot for not over .001" or so total indicator readout with a dial indicator. You can drill and tap the factory dowels 5/16 x 18 and pull with a slide hammer and use the offset Lakewood dowels to get the housing aligned (drill and tap them too so you can remove them the same way).
I doubt it is an adjustment problem at this point because at first the clutch was right at the floor for release. Now I have good pedal travel off floor before clutch grabs but I will try one more time to see. Thanks RR for the advice on alignment..... So it is probably not the trans itself I am assuming...
Are you positive the t/b is installed all the way into the clip on the clutch fork, if it's not maybe that's why it sounds "dry". I'd pull the tranny out and follow Rund's recommendation, as well as check everything else. Are all of the parts OEM Olds, aftermarket clutch forks generally don't work on our cars.
Remember the spring clips go into the groove of the t.o. bearing along with the fork fingers. Your problem is not in the trans. The pressure plate is also suspect as is the t.o. brg. because of the change in release height on the pedal.
So I pulled the trans today and the Throw Out bearing. It is the short one as I have in my other cars. In the picture its the one on the right. The other is an old one and the third is a new Hays 70-101 which is the proper one for my 67 442. The clutch is a diaphram unit and the disc a standard not overly fat disc. The fork and linkage is 67 442 as compared to the other set I have from a 67 442 I parted. The bearing I took out was very noisy when the clutch was depressed while the eng was running. For now I am gonna try the new Hays bearing and see.
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; Aug 14, 2011 at 05:33 PM. Reason: picture added
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