I did some searching on the forums and didnt really find a clear answer...
Is it possible to install a T5 into my '72 Cutlass Supreme?

I understand the needed parts to convert an auto car to a manual car, but will the T5's bolt up to a BOP bellhousing?

And are there any T5's with the shifter in the stock Cutlass location?

Will a T5 fit under a manual floor hump?

Were there any T5's ever setup with a mechanical clutch or were they all hydraulic?

Any input about this would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, and if you are gentle with it, it might even live to the end of the driveway before it blows up.

GM T5s built prior to about 1992 use the standard Muncie/Saginaw bolt pattern and input shaft. Newer ones used the Ford bolt pattern.

Nope. Your options are the Camaro tailhousing, with the angled shifter, the Mustang tailhousing with the straight shifter (and far rearward location), the S-10 tailhousing (with the far forward shifter), and the rare Astro van tailhousing with the mid-mount shifter. Tailhousings swap easily, but you may need to relocate the speedo drive gear. Try Google, there are a couple of very informative threads at H.A.M.B.

They will fit in the hump, but the shifter likely won't line up.

Don't confuse the integral hydraulic throwout bearing, used on the 1996-up transmissions, with the external hydraulic system that used a conventional throwout bearing and fork. The latter was used on all T5s prior to 1996. As far as the trans is concerned, it neither knows nor cares whether the clutch fork is actuated with a hydraulic cylinder or a mechanical linkage.

Be very aware of the differences between non-world class and world class T5s. The WC T5s with the Muncie bolt pattern were only made for a few years in the late 1980s/early 1990s. These are the strongest but are still only rated at 300 ft-lbs.

 

All of Joe's input is true, If you are going to go to the trouble, time and expense to do the conversion and want an overdrive, do it right the first time with either a T-56 6 speed, or a Tremec TKO 500 5 speed. You'll be very happy with it and won't have any regrets.

 

Plus you can buy a complete bell housing, fllywheel, clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing, kit for the Olds from a number of speed shops the sell the Tremec trans. You will have to modify the floor somewhat.

 

Thank you for all of your input. I guess I couldn't find much on T5 swaps because nobody does it. I assume a T-56 or a TKO 500 will handle more power since you guys recommend them over a T5...

 

There is a reason you could not get one in a 350 Camaro. You had to get a 305 to get one. You will kill it quick with the torque of an Olds.

 

Not sure I'd say that, exactly. Again, you might want to try Google, which would have lead you to this:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=169265

Well, the "500" in TKO 500 stands for 500 ft-lbs. There's also a TKO 600 if you think you need that. Of course, these transmissions AREN'T cheap. Expect to pay $4000 for everything, including a new trans.

 

Go to this site and put together what you want and then get a quote.

http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Basic-Tremec-Kit.aspx

I bought the TKO and all parts for my conversion here Total cost $3,840.00. I bought my mine two years ago

 

Well it is good to know that its pretty easy to do, other than the financial part of it.

 

Well.........I don't know if I'd say "easy", but I will say well worth the effort!!

 

I can't imagine what my 455 would be like bolted up to a 5 speed after driving it with the TH400. The only downer to this swap is that 9 months ago when I put in the 455 I didnt know about the difference in the crankshafts between autos & manuals. So I dont know if my crank has the provision for a pilot bearing or not.

 

Regardless of whether the crank is drilled or not, there are roller bearing provisions that press into the recess in the back of the crank. You can adjust the length of the transmission input shaft accordingly.

 

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You can also use the automatic roller bearing and just drill out a recess in the crank for the transmission shaft clearance and not cut the transmission shaft

 

I did read about guys on here who had tried that and said it didnt last very long. Is that just because they used a cheap bearing?

 

It will work fine as long as you get a quality bearing. The failures are usually due to not having the bell housing centered correctly causing the transmission to be off centered causing premature bearing wear. Use a dial gauge and adjustable dowel pins to make sure the shaft is centered and you will be fine.