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Hi all from upstate NY!
I finally purchased a classic car, this week, that I can work on myself. I'm not an expert mechanic but I can get around an old car pretty good. I am not good at all with body work, I can figure some things out, but trying to find information on this car is close to impossible.
I bought this car from a retired couple that traded a boat for this about a year and a half ago. They said that since they've owned it, it has been driven less that 100 miles. I saw it on FB marketplace and when I told them I wanted to buy this they said "so I can tell the other guy it's sold?" I said yes and the next day they told me that that guy said "i hope he didn't lowball you on the price. It's a 442 and worth alot more." So i have been trying to do some detective work on the VIN and because it has 13 didgits instead of 17, I am having and issue to tell me more. I did find a place that gave me some info and here is what I got.
Vin starts with 3G37R6M... 3=Olds G=Cutlass S 37=Coup 2 door hardtop R=V8 4b 6=1976 M=Lansing MI
That being said, there has been some restoration and the carpet has been replaced. I am trying to find the build sheet and think it went missing when the carpet was replaced.
I am trying to find out if it has all of the options to actually be a 442? I think it has the suspension, i beleive it's the W27?
It does have the 350 4b, bucket swivel seats, looks like the suspension but don't know where to go from here.
When looking for parts, do I look for Cutlass Supreme, S, or 442? There are some obvious differences like the nose and seats but who knows?
Well, I ramble a bit..LOL
I will post more pictures and look for advice on this forum and thank you in advance!
Sorry for the huge picture, I'll have to figure out how to downsize it. My"first" classic car
Love the color, body shape, and nose. Welcome aboard.
Originally Posted by dtman02
I am trying to find out if it has all of the options to actually be a 442?
Its a Cutlass S, 442s are based on Cutlass S and the 77 version of Cutlass S coupe only had the slant nose when optioned as a 442. So many conflate the 2 and assume all slant noses are 442s...
At the same time the 76/77 Cutlass S coupe and 442 can be virtually identical where it counts, as the option was appearance only. Either or could have the same engine, suspension, handling, etc.
The 1976 Oldsmobile 442 was primarily an appearance and handling package offered on the Cutlass S coupe. The FE-2 suspension was part of that. Beware, all of it is a bolt-on.
FE2 is described as: 442 Rally-Sport suspension. Includes heavy-duty front and rear springs, shock absorbers, and stabilizer bars; and heavy-duty rear suspension control arms (boxed). Some say the wheels were HD too.
If you found the build sheet, window sticker or dealer invoice/order form, it should say W29, which = 442 package. Nothing on the VIN will indicate W29.
A W27 aluminum rear differential was never available as a factory option in 1976.
A Lansing car rarely has the build sheet. Other places it could be are behind the seat backs, under the rear seat, stuffed in a door panel or glovebox area above the gas tank et. al.
99% of the Cutlass S & 442 parts interchange. The exceptions would be for the specific engine trans combo and suspension (The spring & shock rates).
We had this exact car in the late 70s. Silver with the burgundy interior. Had a 350/350 and ran well. It was a Cutlass S with the FE-2.
We had this exact car in the late 70s. Silver with the burgundy interior. Had a 350/350 and ran well. It was a Cutlass S with the FE-2.
Bingo, couldnt of asked for a better follow up to my post if I begged.
Dtman02, the best way to look at it is the Cutlass S was a good car whether it was a 442 or not. Sure it's cooler to say it's a 442 but if you know you know.
Hot Rod Magazine June 1976 conducted a road test of the 76 442 and spoke glowingly of the end result. While at the same time pulling no punches.
Center blurb lays it out. https://www.hotrod.com/features/name-game-june-1976-982-754-103-1
Hot Rods 442 was the 350 version, so you are one of the lucky ones who has a major publications real test results.
Acelarative performance was dead even to a regular S.
Enjoy the article if you haven't seen it yet, and enjoy a very cool car.
The 1976 Oldsmobile 442 was primarily an appearance and handling package offered on the Cutlass S coupe. The FE-2 suspension was part of that. Beware, all of it is a bolt-on.
FE2 is described as: 442 Rally-Sport suspension. Includes heavy-duty front and rear springs, shock absorbers, and stabilizer bars; and heavy-duty rear suspension control arms (boxed). Some say the wheels were HD too.
If you found the build sheet, window sticker or dealer invoice/order form, it should say W29, which = 442 package. Nothing on the VIN will indicate W29.
A W27 aluminum rear differential was never available as a factory option in 1976.
A Lansing car rarely has the build sheet. Other places it could be are behind the seat backs, under the rear seat, stuffed in a door panel or glovebox area above the gas tank et. al.
99% of the Cutlass S & 442 parts interchange. The exceptions would be for the specific engine trans combo and suspension (The spring & shock rates).
We had this exact car in the late 70s. Silver with the burgundy interior. Had a 350/350 and ran well. It was a Cutlass S with the FE-2.
Trying to get the build sheet but finding it difficult. I reached out to GM and they sent me to another area and havent heard back. Looks like the car has been painted and nothing on the doors, glove box or front seats. The carpet has been replaced but still need to check under rear seat.
I did get a tip about sending an email to socialmedia@gm.com and got a response to go to www.gmmediaarchive.com. Went there and sent an email to gmhc@gm.com. Waiting to see what they come up with.Thanks again!
Good afternoon,
I ended up finding out that my 76 is too old for them to find any records and sorry...
Oh well, thank goodness I have people here to help me out.
Here are more pictures. I am still trying to find out what the previous owner did with this car...Apparently it had A/C. Is it easy enough to remove the A/C housing in the engine compartment? I've gone to a few car shows to see what it should look like under the hood but unfortunately haven't seen one like mine, but I looked a few other GM cars and have an idea...
Doing it is the hard part...
Thanks for the help all!
Welcome to the site, nice ride. Looks like you're going to need upper control arm bushings, you may want to give the front suspension and steering a good looking at. What are we doing at the battery?
Trying to get the build sheet but finding it difficult.
Stop trying. You won't find one in the car or anywhere else. What no one has pointed out to you is that Lansing- built cars don't have build sheets in them because that plant was much more conscientious about not leaving build sheets in the cars than the other plants were.
The GM Heritage Center can't help you because their dealer invoice records go back only to 1977. You missed it by one year.
Not sure what's up with the battery. Was that way when I got it. That's why I am trying to find other cars like mine so I can get a clue... Lol
This is my first "classic" car and learning as I go.
Thanks for the reply
Oldcutlass is definitely correct.! The mechanic that I know told me the same thing.
I just got the car about a month ago and plan on getting those done sooner than later.
Does this car have both upper and lower and the same in the rear?
Thanks again!
That's a blast from the past. It's a near clone from the one we owned. Be a real conscience if it actually was our old car.
When you do the front end do everything after a thorough inspection, of course. I can't imagine the BJ and steering linkage boots are any good, but the BJs tie rod center link etc, themselves might be OK.
You can just replace the boots. But if they are shot and have let dirt and water in, you're better off just replacing them.
If you do the work, the best tip I can offer is to mark everything, especially the upper control arm shims. Put those back in exactly how they were removed.
I believe full kits are offered for all the consumable items. Do all the rubber hoses & brake lines too.
That's a blast from the past. It's a near clone from the one we owned. Be a real conscience if it actually was our old car.
When you do the front end do everything after a thorough inspection, of course. I can't imagine the BJ and steering linkage boots are any good, but the BJs tie rod center link etc, themselves might be OK.
You can just replace the boots. But if they are shot and have let dirt and water in, you're better off just replacing them.
If you do the work, the best tip I can offer is to mark everything, especially the upper control arm shims. Put those back in exactly how they were removed.
I believe full kits are offered for all the consumable items. Do all the rubber hoses & brake lines too.
Thank you Dr! Luckily, the brake line have recently been done.
