Looking for Advice
May 15th, 2014, 09:24 AM
#41
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 5,016
Although its somewhat of a let down about the W30 status you still have a nice sharp looking piece of automotive history. If in fact the vin starts out as 344 that indicates 442 status. Though not as rare as one of 563, W30s, it is one of 5302 total (34487, coupes) produced for 71. Thats considered to be on the lower end of production which still makes it a desirable car.
Your vin says its a true 442. 71 was the last year of the 68-71 models in which the 442 was a separate model and not a trim/drivetrain option on a Cutlass which was the case before and aft of these years.
Same things still apply regarding the parts. Save all of them. Now this car may very well have some true factory W30 parts on it. Said parts are in high demand and the prices reflect that accordingly. Trans, engine, heads, rear end, red fender wells, carb, real OAI factory hood and air cleaner assembly, 442 grills, wing on the trunk etc...Someone could have stripped a wrecked or rotten W30 and installed all the goodies in your 442? Parts are being cloned too so caution applies here as well. Most of us here can tell the real stuff from the re-stamped forgeries.
So heres my advice...Insure it with a classic car insurance company as a 71, 442. Its value is somewhere between 20 & 35K...IMO. 35K is for a real and I mean real clean rust free example. Have it professionally appraised by an appraiser keenly familiar with Muscle cars. Keep it in good shape with regular maintenance. Store it properly (clean, dry, rodent free garage with stabilizer in the gas) Keep it out of the rain and snow. Drive it, be proud of it and enjoy it as your dad would have. You still have a very nice car.
ps autocolorlibrary.com has the paint exterior & interior codes
Your vin says its a true 442. 71 was the last year of the 68-71 models in which the 442 was a separate model and not a trim/drivetrain option on a Cutlass which was the case before and aft of these years.
Same things still apply regarding the parts. Save all of them. Now this car may very well have some true factory W30 parts on it. Said parts are in high demand and the prices reflect that accordingly. Trans, engine, heads, rear end, red fender wells, carb, real OAI factory hood and air cleaner assembly, 442 grills, wing on the trunk etc...Someone could have stripped a wrecked or rotten W30 and installed all the goodies in your 442? Parts are being cloned too so caution applies here as well. Most of us here can tell the real stuff from the re-stamped forgeries.
So heres my advice...Insure it with a classic car insurance company as a 71, 442. Its value is somewhere between 20 & 35K...IMO. 35K is for a real and I mean real clean rust free example. Have it professionally appraised by an appraiser keenly familiar with Muscle cars. Keep it in good shape with regular maintenance. Store it properly (clean, dry, rodent free garage with stabilizer in the gas) Keep it out of the rain and snow. Drive it, be proud of it and enjoy it as your dad would have. You still have a very nice car.
ps autocolorlibrary.com has the paint exterior & interior codes
May 15th, 2014, 09:35 AM
#42
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,269
Same things still apply regarding the parts. Save all of them. Now this car may very well have some true factory W30 parts on it. Said parts are in high demand and the prices reflect that accordingly. Trans, engine, heads, rear end, red fender wells, carb, real OAI factory hood and air cleaner assembly, 442 grills, wing on the trunk etc...Someone could have stripped a wrecked or rotten W30 and installed all the goodies in your 442? Parts are being cloned too so caution applies here as well. Most of us here can tell the real stuff from the re-stamped forgeries.
We don't know if it's the original engine and heads, a real W-motor (of unknown year), or what. If the car does have an OW trans, that clearly isn't original, but it's worth something.
May 15th, 2014, 02:13 PM
#43
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 11
May 15th, 2014, 04:04 PM
#46
Old School Olds
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Marble Falls TX
Posts: 9,029
Meg, your video homework
is due tomorrow morning...
A walk around the car would be
awesome. We can help figure out
the noises on idel and a little revving
I would wager. You already get an A+
on just having this beauty.
The latter is for extra points...
is due tomorrow morning...
A walk around the car would be
awesome. We can help figure out
the noises on idel and a little revving
I would wager. You already get an A+
on just having this beauty.
The latter is for extra points...
Last edited by tru-blue 442; May 15th, 2014 at 04:07 PM.
May 16th, 2014, 07:40 AM
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 26
Hey guys got a chance to finally get my car fired up and running. Turns out it was two problems, we were able to get a better listen to where exactly the tick/knocks were coming from through the suggestion of a homemade stethoscope. Luckily it is just a exhaust leak and lifter getting stuck. Thank you all for all your help, I was able to learn more about this car in a few days then anyone in my family ever knew! What a great source this site is!
May 16th, 2014, 07:43 AM
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 26
Sorry couldn't get you a video today though it is pouring here! This weekend for sure
May 16th, 2014, 07:52 AM
#49
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 26
Although its somewhat of a let down about the W30 status you still have a nice sharp looking piece of automotive history. If in fact the vin starts out as 344 that indicates 442 status. Though not as rare as one of 563, W30s, it is one of 5302 total (34487, coupes) produced for 71. Thats considered to be on the lower end of production which still makes it a desirable car.
Your vin says its a true 442. 71 was the last year of the 68-71 models in which the 442 was a separate model and not a trim/drivetrain option on a Cutlass which was the case before and aft of these years.
Same things still apply regarding the parts. Save all of them. Now this car may very well have some true factory W30 parts on it. Said parts are in high demand and the prices reflect that accordingly. Trans, engine, heads, rear end, red fender wells, carb, real OAI factory hood and air cleaner assembly, 442 grills, wing on the trunk etc...Someone could have stripped a wrecked or rotten W30 and installed all the goodies in your 442? Parts are being cloned too so caution applies here as well. Most of us here can tell the real stuff from the re-stamped forgeries.
So heres my advice...Insure it with a classic car insurance company as a 71, 442. Its value is somewhere between 20 & 35K...IMO. 35K is for a real and I mean real clean rust free example. Have it professionally appraised by an appraiser keenly familiar with Muscle cars. Keep it in good shape with regular maintenance. Store it properly (clean, dry, rodent free garage with stabilizer in the gas) Keep it out of the rain and snow. Drive it, be proud of it and enjoy it as your dad would have. You still have a very nice car.
ps autocolorlibrary.com has the paint exterior & interior codes
Your vin says its a true 442. 71 was the last year of the 68-71 models in which the 442 was a separate model and not a trim/drivetrain option on a Cutlass which was the case before and aft of these years.
Same things still apply regarding the parts. Save all of them. Now this car may very well have some true factory W30 parts on it. Said parts are in high demand and the prices reflect that accordingly. Trans, engine, heads, rear end, red fender wells, carb, real OAI factory hood and air cleaner assembly, 442 grills, wing on the trunk etc...Someone could have stripped a wrecked or rotten W30 and installed all the goodies in your 442? Parts are being cloned too so caution applies here as well. Most of us here can tell the real stuff from the re-stamped forgeries.
So heres my advice...Insure it with a classic car insurance company as a 71, 442. Its value is somewhere between 20 & 35K...IMO. 35K is for a real and I mean real clean rust free example. Have it professionally appraised by an appraiser keenly familiar with Muscle cars. Keep it in good shape with regular maintenance. Store it properly (clean, dry, rodent free garage with stabilizer in the gas) Keep it out of the rain and snow. Drive it, be proud of it and enjoy it as your dad would have. You still have a very nice car.
ps autocolorlibrary.com has the paint exterior & interior codes
I was thinking the same thing about someone modifying using a wrecked W-30. Would make sense. Now that we know more we will be taking the time to try and find out which things have been replaced and which are original to the car. I still have the stock rims, although they are not on the car they are stored safely.
I have it insured with Hagerty for some where around 20K, and it is currently in a temperature controlled garage. Going to head down to the car show this weekend and ask around to some of the local guys for a very reputable mechanic that I can trust.
May 16th, 2014, 08:02 AM
#50
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 41,079
Meg, Meg, Meg, one of the Joys of owning an older car is working on it. They are very easy and most projects just require basic hand tools. Why pay big $$'s for things that you can learn to do on your own.
May 16th, 2014, 08:03 AM
#51
I would be curious to see if the engine was swapped for a W30 as the trans was. Does the intake manifold look to be silver/aluminum and stamped 455 or W30? Also on the drivers side cylinder head there is a casting letter by the 1st spark plug hole. A w30 head for 1971 would have an H cast just to the left of that spark plug hole.
May 16th, 2014, 08:23 AM
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 26
I think the engine is the same bc a few years back my boyfriend checked a number (it was the same number one of you suggested we check the other day), and it did match the serial number to the car. Not sure about any of the other parts I will certainly have him look at the casting letter on the cylinder tomorrow as well as the intake manifold.
@oldcutlass, I do take pride in helping work on my car, my brother and boyfriend have done almost all the repairs/maintenance to the car since I assumed ownership. While I may not physically help them, I am always there watching and learning. I want to know as much as I can about it the car. They actually suggested both of the problem we determined but as a female I worry a lot and need a little reassurance. Hence knowing a good mechanic in my area will help significantly for any future concerns. But I do prefer we do the work ourselves as much as possible bc I know they truly care about the car as much as I do.
@oldcutlass, I do take pride in helping work on my car, my brother and boyfriend have done almost all the repairs/maintenance to the car since I assumed ownership. While I may not physically help them, I am always there watching and learning. I want to know as much as I can about it the car. They actually suggested both of the problem we determined but as a female I worry a lot and need a little reassurance. Hence knowing a good mechanic in my area will help significantly for any future concerns. But I do prefer we do the work ourselves as much as possible bc I know they truly care about the car as much as I do.
May 16th, 2014, 08:46 AM
#54
71 cutlass convertible
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trappe, MD
Posts: 2,063
What part of Delaware are you in? I'm on the Eastern Shore outside of Easton. I will be in OC on Sat. Maybe I will see you around?
There are 2 mechanics around me that I would trust. Both have and built several old cars. One is into Buick Gran Sports the other is more of a hot rodder both have good shops. I use them when I get over my head.
If you want there numbers shoot me a PM.
Larry
There are 2 mechanics around me that I would trust. Both have and built several old cars. One is into Buick Gran Sports the other is more of a hot rodder both have good shops. I use them when I get over my head.
If you want there numbers shoot me a PM.
Larry
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