You're making good progress. You must have located or built that drive pulley if you are going to fire it up in a few weeks.

 

Actually no luck on the pulley/balancer -- it's a 1.5 inch shaft & 5" pulley if anyone has one laying around...

Short of that I'm threatening to get silly with some JB weld....

 

Take a photo and post it on this thread and on parts wanted. I assume you have called all of the usual suspects like vintage wrecking yards and are checking Hemmings and other sources. It might be possible to find one with the correct diameter and belt groove but a different shaft size and have a machine shop either sleeve or enlarge the shaft hole to get a fit. Does it have the rubber insert or is it all steel?
Jerry

 

That motor looks great. The whole car looks more like more than it did in that barn. I think it's a really stylish car just the way it is.I'd make a running car out it then decide whether to dive in on the resto or just go for the "patina" look.

 

That's because the 34-37 GMC 1 & 1/2 ton trucks used an Olds 6 cyl engine.
From the late twenties until 1938 GMC used Buick, Olds , or Pontiac engines in their smaller (less than 3 tons) trucks.
In 1939 GMC got it's own engine (228-302) six cylinder .
In the fifties GMC again "borrowed" Olds and Pontiac V-8 engines for their trucks.
When I was in the Air Force during the Vietnam War we had a couple of big fuel tanker trucks , 57 GMC's, that had a 371 Oldsmobile engine and a huge 8 speed Hydramatic transmission.

 

That car is awesome - I am so glad you are saving it.

 

Glad to see the progress. I think you have done well to keep it original and whole.

You might give Damper Dudes in Anderson Ca. a call as they deal in front pulleys and dampers they may be able to help or at least give you a lead on a replacement if yours is not rebuildable....Tedd..http://www.damperdudes.net/

 

Very nice.

I like that car.

- Eric

 

Outstanding progress, kudos for keeping the driveline original.

 

Thought I'd post a few update pics--it's now a "frame-off" thing. Found a balancer with the obsolete olds guy & it should be here early next week.

 

Great luck finding that balancer and the project looks very nice. Keep on going.
Jerry

 

Nice progress with the car.
For the interior , check with the LeBaron - Bonney company.
They specialize in 30's, 40's, and 50's interior fabrics and kits.

http://www.lebaronbonney.com/

Also try Rhode Island Wiring for original wiring.

http://www.riwire.com/Pages/contact.htm

 

If you don't have the seats, I think that the seats from a 35 or 36 Pontiac, 36 Oldsmobile, or Buick Special or Century from 1936 would be the same.

 

Couple more pics of the frame and the motor with generator, radiator, & starter installed.

Having one hell of a time getting the brake drums off of the rear axle--I'm about ready to cut them off and buy new drums--somebody talk me down!

 

Very nice.

You've cut the brake lines and turned in the adjusters, right? And applied penetrating oil liberally?

Next step is lots of heat, like enough to make the drums almost start being red.

- Eric

 

X2 what Eric said. Patience is key here. Sometimes a couple of days of letting penetrating oil soak in is required along with tapping with small ball peen hammer to set up vibrations that help the oil penetrate.

I couldn't help but notice the distributor. Have you checked it out for wear? The reason I ask is because there is a company, Philbin, in Portland, OR. that specializes in rebuilding old distributors. http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm They have done a couple for me and I always find their work more than satisfactory. They are very capable of making those obsolete parts that no one has any longer.
Jerry

 

Before you "heat and beat" get a service manual like this one here;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Oldsmob...d7f5fa&vxp=mtr

I have a Chilton manual ( C 1937) that has a list of commonly replaced parts. I noticed that the rear hub and drum was a separate part from the rear axle shaft.
It could be that the axle is tapered on the end and the hub is also tapered. Similar to an early Ford V-8 or an AMC.
In any case the service manual will explain all. The Chilton book was more like a flat rate manual and didn't have much service info except tune-up and alignment specs. but it did have the parts info.
If you want, I could send you copies of the pages that pertain to your car. Just send me your address in a PM.

 

Good point: I'm familiar with the old F_rds - If it has a spindle nut in the center of the hub with a cotter pin through it, then treat it like a front drum on many GM cars, where the hub and drum are on in the same.

Which reminds me: In the good old days, brake drum pullers were common tools. You may need one.

- Eric

 

The axles are tapered and the threads on the passenger side are reversed. Couple of good whacks on the side of the hub should break it apart.

 

Finally got there--ended up taking the rear axle to a local clutch & brake place. They pulled the drums & found me some new shoes & cylinders. The fronts came off so easy I thought I'd broken something. Put in new brake lines over the weekend.

It may not run yet but it sure will stop.....

 

______________________________________________
Good show. Did you happen to see how they pulled the rear drums or ask them? It would be good information to post on this forum. I'm always amazed at how many years/models some parts were used on various cars including Oldsmobile. Not unusual to find some parts that are identical on cars over a 10 year period.
Jerry

 

So it ends up it has tapered spindles all-around. The guys at Central Coast Brake & Clutch (who are awesome if you need anything clutch/brake on California's central coast) had the setup that uses a slide hammer & bolts up to the wheel studs.

For the front I pulled the spindle nuts, bolted a wheel back on and used my big pulley puller by hooking the jaws into openings in the wheel--popped them right off.

Unfortunately, I'm now shopping for at least one drum. Just too much rust on the one that had sunk too far into the mud in the barn. They're 12 inch/5 lug. I'm sure there are a million out there but trying to search by make/model on the car isn't working.

Any suggestions?

 

Parts book shows different numbers for F35 drums and L35 drums. 11-1/16 dia shown in Hollanders for F35 drums.

Hollanders says 35 and 36 6 cyl. brake drums are interchangeable. That's not much to go on but it gives you one more year to look at.
Jerry

 

Making some progress on the body work. The main tub is intact, clean and now under some primer.

 

Not bad.

- Eric

 

Looking good, inspect your rear axles for cracks before putting it all back together. Don't ask me how I know.

 

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Its only been five months since I commented on what you'd just started as a project. I'd say you are making great progress. Keep it up and keep posting progress pictures.

I looked at the picture of your 36 humpback in the driveway and started missing my 36 Chevy of the same body style. Sniff...

 

Thanks--I've had the axle off/cleaned up and painted--glad I didn't find any cracks

 

I suppose I would miss this also...

 

Do you remember where the grill came from? Mine is shot

 

________________________________________

It was a used aftermarket grille in bare steel. Originally made in Argentina after Chevy quit making them. Prep and Chroming from Oregon Plating in Portland.

A place called Alumicraft, alumicraft.com makes reproduction grilles for a number of 30s and 40s cars. The 36 Chevy grille is similar to your 35 Olds grille if I remember correctly but not identical. A call to Alumicraft would likely get you some information.

There is/was a guy in Twin Falls ID who makes custom stainless grilles that look terrific. Price is commensurate. I have no idea how to find him. Google maybe?
Good luck. That's a great project.

 

Best custom/rod I ever built. Corvette C4 suspension all around incl. rear end. 94 Corvette LT1 and 4L60e power train. Literally dozens of modifications. Of course it would have been a better car with Olds power but I wanted to experiment with computer controlled engine and transmission. A real learning curve.