1935 Project decision
October 28th, 2013, 07:18 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
1935 Project decision
Greetings all:
This is Eric in Santa Maria, CA & my family has offered the opportunity to restore a 1935 that has been sitting in a barn since 1950.
Its a 4-door/6-cyl & really has been just left to slowly sink into the dirt.
I'm looking for some help in:
1) Identifying specific model
2) Deciding if I should invest the time & money (understand it will not be a money-maker, I'd like to stay married tho....)
3) Advice on what to keep and what to upgrade (disk brake conversion, TBI, etc.)
4) Where to go for parts
5) Suggestions on how to best clean/lube/grease the engine before trying to fire it up (assuming it isn't seized--they say they drove it in there).
Any suggestions/wisdom/lessons learned would be appreciated!
This is Eric in Santa Maria, CA & my family has offered the opportunity to restore a 1935 that has been sitting in a barn since 1950.
Its a 4-door/6-cyl & really has been just left to slowly sink into the dirt.
I'm looking for some help in:
1) Identifying specific model
2) Deciding if I should invest the time & money (understand it will not be a money-maker, I'd like to stay married tho....)
3) Advice on what to keep and what to upgrade (disk brake conversion, TBI, etc.)
4) Where to go for parts
5) Suggestions on how to best clean/lube/grease the engine before trying to fire it up (assuming it isn't seized--they say they drove it in there).
Any suggestions/wisdom/lessons learned would be appreciated!
October 28th, 2013, 07:44 AM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,551
Welcome, it seems solid. There is another member on here with one that we have been trying to get road worthy. See links
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ldsmobile.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ldsmobile.html
October 28th, 2013, 09:17 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,717
If it were mine I would first pull it out of the barn and pressure wash the hell out of it and see what all you have to work with, take an inventory of whats missing wore rusted or broken and see what can be found or will need to be fabricated. Sort of do a WAG of projected costs then double it because it will end up with that number or more anyway.
This will at least give you an idea if you want to go stock or build a street rod. Stock trim parts and some hard parts( engine, brake and electrical) will be some what of a problem but stuff is out there if you have the time and money but it not easy or cheep especially on your first build( it takes awhile to build up a source for parts).
A street rod will probably be easier parts wise but probably not any cheaper because you are using only the body shell and most likely only part of the frame the rest will have to be sourced. All of the running gear steering and suspension can be bought over the counter but this adds up quickly. I don't know your skills but what you don't know will have to be out sourced by someone else so go in with your eyes and wallet open.
I don't want to scare you away from your project but so many people get started and lose their desire or can't afford what they have started. I would make up a budget and try to keep to it(I never could) so you don't break the bank or pi$$ off the better half.
My vote would be to keep it stock not for costs or ease of build but just for the fact there are so few 35 Old's left out there unmolested. I would hate to lose another though it would make a neat street rod, it tis your car to do with what you want.......Just my thoughts and ramblings....Tedd
This will at least give you an idea if you want to go stock or build a street rod. Stock trim parts and some hard parts( engine, brake and electrical) will be some what of a problem but stuff is out there if you have the time and money but it not easy or cheep especially on your first build( it takes awhile to build up a source for parts).
A street rod will probably be easier parts wise but probably not any cheaper because you are using only the body shell and most likely only part of the frame the rest will have to be sourced. All of the running gear steering and suspension can be bought over the counter but this adds up quickly. I don't know your skills but what you don't know will have to be out sourced by someone else so go in with your eyes and wallet open.
I don't want to scare you away from your project but so many people get started and lose their desire or can't afford what they have started. I would make up a budget and try to keep to it(I never could) so you don't break the bank or pi$$ off the better half.
My vote would be to keep it stock not for costs or ease of build but just for the fact there are so few 35 Old's left out there unmolested. I would hate to lose another though it would make a neat street rod, it tis your car to do with what you want.......Just my thoughts and ramblings....Tedd
October 28th, 2013, 11:16 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
Thanks all--intent is to keep it stock. I should be able to do everything myself. Just finished an old Landcruiser I've been working on & got pretty good at welding sheet metal, basic body work & paint. My biggest concern is the interior--nothing remains of the seats & all the other soft interior stuff has been eaten by critters.
October 28th, 2013, 04:11 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,717
I think keeping it original is the way to go, keep in mind while you are looking over your project that any GM product from 1936 and later have wooden frame work for doors and structural parts of the body shell if yours are still in good shape that is a major plus. I think you have a model F 35 if it is a 8 cylinder it would be a L 35.
You might drop on down to the vintage forum and check in there where a bunch of pre war guys hang out and get acquainted, good info spread around there from time to time.
Here what I do on a seized up or a long time no runner.
# 1 Clean everything up so you can see what missing or leaking.
#2 pull the plugs and dump a good squirt of marvel mystery oil or 1/2 acetone and auto transmission oil down each plug hole, let sit overnight.
#3 Clean the gas lines and probably the tank or use a remote gas can for start up.
#4 Check the battery, switch, distributor, wires, cap and points and see if you have fire from all ares or if the points or anything else need replacing or need adjusting.
#5 Check all fluid levels (I would change them before startup if you think this thing is really going to go).I use 10/40 Pens but any good oil will work and you will probably be changing it soon anyway after it bust up any old sludge left after 25 years of slumber. This is also a good time to check if there is any water in the old oil or if the radiator will hold water also check if the radiator hoses and belt are useable for at least start up time.
#6 Spin it over( if it will) with out the plugs or coil wire attached. Clean up the mess you have just made if it turned over( always a good day if it spins over. Button it up with new plugs or the old ones if they look good and see if it will still turn over. Take off the air cleaner and drop a little gas down the throat. Attach all the wires and say a few hail Maries. , you are almost ready for take off.
#5 Put a fire extinguisher near by(you may need it) and fire it up. probably will smoke like a dragon for a while but what a good feeling to resurrect something that has sat idle for years . If using a 12 volt jumped to a 6volt don't spin it long or bad things will happen to the starter. Keep us posted on how it goes....Best of luck in your endeavors....Lost in the fifties ..Tedd
You might drop on down to the vintage forum and check in there where a bunch of pre war guys hang out and get acquainted, good info spread around there from time to time.
Here what I do on a seized up or a long time no runner.
# 1 Clean everything up so you can see what missing or leaking.
#2 pull the plugs and dump a good squirt of marvel mystery oil or 1/2 acetone and auto transmission oil down each plug hole, let sit overnight.
#3 Clean the gas lines and probably the tank or use a remote gas can for start up.
#4 Check the battery, switch, distributor, wires, cap and points and see if you have fire from all ares or if the points or anything else need replacing or need adjusting.
#5 Check all fluid levels (I would change them before startup if you think this thing is really going to go).I use 10/40 Pens but any good oil will work and you will probably be changing it soon anyway after it bust up any old sludge left after 25 years of slumber. This is also a good time to check if there is any water in the old oil or if the radiator will hold water also check if the radiator hoses and belt are useable for at least start up time.
#6 Spin it over( if it will) with out the plugs or coil wire attached. Clean up the mess you have just made if it turned over( always a good day if it spins over. Button it up with new plugs or the old ones if they look good and see if it will still turn over. Take off the air cleaner and drop a little gas down the throat. Attach all the wires and say a few hail Maries. , you are almost ready for take off.
#5 Put a fire extinguisher near by(you may need it) and fire it up. probably will smoke like a dragon for a while but what a good feeling to resurrect something that has sat idle for years . If using a 12 volt jumped to a 6volt don't spin it long or bad things will happen to the starter. Keep us posted on how it goes....Best of luck in your endeavors....Lost in the fifties ..Tedd
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; October 28th, 2013 at 04:23 PM.
October 28th, 2013, 05:18 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 14,166
We know three things. It's a 1935 model, it's got a 6-cylinder engine, and it's a four-door sedan.
Olds made only two basic models, one with a Six and one with inline 8, through most of the '30s. The Sixes were called ""Model F-XX" and the Eights were called "Model L-XX" where XX was the model year. So yours is a 1935 Model F-35.
In 1935, Olds made two four-door models, a "Touring" sedan and a 4-door sedan in both the F- and L- lines. I believe yours is the Touring sedan. One difference between the two is that the Touring sedan has a bulge in the rear of the car for more storage space while the 4-door sedan has a more steeply angled rear end. Note the difference in the two photos below, which are from a 1935 Olds brochure. Note the bulge in the rear by the guy in the plaid suit and striped tie (what was he thinking!) standing at the back holding the briefcase.
We can't see the rear of your car in any of the photos, but the last photo, which I think is of the rear seat area of the interior, does seem to show a space behind the seat under the window.
Interestingly, the Touring sedan was the most expensive F-series Olds that year, even more than the convertible by $20. Base price of your car was $820. It has a 115 inch wheelbase, is 188 inches long, and has a curb weight of 3,285 lbs. The engine is a 213 cubic-inch L-head Six rated at 90 hp.
Also interesting, even though the Touring sedan was the most expensive F- model, it also saw the highest production of any Olds that year, F- or L- series, at 34,959 units. In fact, with Olds production for 1935 totaling 132,042, The F-35 Touring sedan accounted for more than 25% of all Oldsmobile produced that year. This might very well explain why the one you found is an F-35 Touring. With one out of every four Oldsmobiles built that year being one of these, the odds are that, if you randomly find a '35 Oldsmobile, it's more likely to be an F-35 Touring sedan than any other model.
Olds made only two basic models, one with a Six and one with inline 8, through most of the '30s. The Sixes were called ""Model F-XX" and the Eights were called "Model L-XX" where XX was the model year. So yours is a 1935 Model F-35.
In 1935, Olds made two four-door models, a "Touring" sedan and a 4-door sedan in both the F- and L- lines. I believe yours is the Touring sedan. One difference between the two is that the Touring sedan has a bulge in the rear of the car for more storage space while the 4-door sedan has a more steeply angled rear end. Note the difference in the two photos below, which are from a 1935 Olds brochure. Note the bulge in the rear by the guy in the plaid suit and striped tie (what was he thinking!) standing at the back holding the briefcase.
We can't see the rear of your car in any of the photos, but the last photo, which I think is of the rear seat area of the interior, does seem to show a space behind the seat under the window.
Interestingly, the Touring sedan was the most expensive F-series Olds that year, even more than the convertible by $20. Base price of your car was $820. It has a 115 inch wheelbase, is 188 inches long, and has a curb weight of 3,285 lbs. The engine is a 213 cubic-inch L-head Six rated at 90 hp.
Also interesting, even though the Touring sedan was the most expensive F- model, it also saw the highest production of any Olds that year, F- or L- series, at 34,959 units. In fact, with Olds production for 1935 totaling 132,042, The F-35 Touring sedan accounted for more than 25% of all Oldsmobile produced that year. This might very well explain why the one you found is an F-35 Touring. With one out of every four Oldsmobiles built that year being one of these, the odds are that, if you randomly find a '35 Oldsmobile, it's more likely to be an F-35 Touring sedan than any other model.
Last edited by jaunty75; October 28th, 2013 at 05:21 PM.
October 29th, 2013, 01:08 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
So it's a F-35. I'm surprised it only weighs 3,285--I could tow that with my minvan! I guess the next step is to go get it. It's in a barn in Richmond, IN.
Don't suppose anyone is driving from Indiana to California in the next few weeks with any empty trailer?
I'm hearing I can get it shipped for about $800-$1,000.
Don't suppose anyone is driving from Indiana to California in the next few weeks with any empty trailer?
I'm hearing I can get it shipped for about $800-$1,000.
October 29th, 2013, 02:46 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
If the seat frames aren't around are there after-market options?
They really don't build them like they used to....
I bet it would be tough to build them from scratch.
October 29th, 2013, 02:48 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
I am too--It can't be that complicated. Even if it's relatively intact I may want to replace everything just to be sure. Not a lot of cost, just a lot of headaches.
Did I hear on an earlier post that it has a 6v system? Might want to get rid of that as well.
Did I hear on an earlier post that it has a 6v system? Might want to get rid of that as well.
October 29th, 2013, 03:35 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mo-Ray-Al, K-Bec.
Posts: 1,815
the wiring is certainly fabric covered ... there aren't many people about who are practiced with that stuff anymore. I know a guy in NC who's supposed to be one of the best left ... did a bunch of work for Hendrick on his collection.
October 29th, 2013, 05:00 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 14,166
On a '30s car? For sure. I think most manufacturers were using 6 volt systems well into the 1950s. At least, I've seen ads and brochures for mid-50s cars touting the fact that they have 12 volt systems. They wouldn't be doing that if it weren't a relatively recent development.
October 29th, 2013, 05:43 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,717
Nothing wrong with a 6 volt system if it is set up correctly(we started cars for fifty years on 6 volts) but to change to 12 volt would require changing all the gauges and lights or getting a voltage step down so you don't smoke them. A rewire will probably be in order as those old fabric covered wires are no doubt brittle and bare in spots. You might check with Painless or AAW Classic Up Date for a rewire kit and see if they have one for your car.
There are a bunch of issues that will crop up that we(you) either don't know about yet or haven't ever experienced, I would concentrate on just getting it to run and stop good at first other wise one can be over come with a huge amount of work that lies ahead. One doesn't even know at this time what problems the first two issues will entail. After all they quit running this car for a reason back in the day...Tedd
There are a bunch of issues that will crop up that we(you) either don't know about yet or haven't ever experienced, I would concentrate on just getting it to run and stop good at first other wise one can be over come with a huge amount of work that lies ahead. One doesn't even know at this time what problems the first two issues will entail. After all they quit running this car for a reason back in the day...Tedd
October 29th, 2013, 10:08 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
Nothing wrong with a 6 volt system if it is set up correctly(we started cars for fifty years on 6 volts) but to change to 12 volt would require changing all the gauges and lights or getting a voltage step down so you don't smoke them. A rewire will probably be in order as those old fabric covered wires are no doubt brittle and bare in spots. You might check with Painless or AAW Classic Up Date for a rewire kit and see if they have one for your car.
There are a bunch of issues that will crop up that we(you) either don't know about yet or haven't ever experienced, I would concentrate on just getting it to run and stop good at first other wise one can be over come with a huge amount of work that lies ahead. One doesn't even know at this time what problems the first two issues will entail. After all they quit running this car for a reason back in the day...Tedd
There are a bunch of issues that will crop up that we(you) either don't know about yet or haven't ever experienced, I would concentrate on just getting it to run and stop good at first other wise one can be over come with a huge amount of work that lies ahead. One doesn't even know at this time what problems the first two issues will entail. After all they quit running this car for a reason back in the day...Tedd
October 30th, 2013, 02:23 AM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodland WA
Posts: 1,009
restoring 35 Oldsmobile
General question: Why are you fixated on this particular four door sedan? Is it free? Has it been in your family forever? Why go 2/3 of the way across the country when you can locate a better project closer to home in rust free California?
With regard to your question #2:
I would pass it up, particularly as a restoration. If you just want to get it running and driveable it would still be expensive and time consuming. Just finding the necessary parts can take months. Plus, if it needs to be shipped, who is going to heft that non-running 3300 lb. of inert metal up onto a car transport? It would be good to figure that one out before making any commitments.
As a SWAG I would estimate a minimum of $15,000 to do an OK but not high quality restoration. It could double the amount and that doesn't count your time or wear and tear on your tools and marital relationship. Very few guys have all the necessary skill sets and a lot of work tends to get farmed out and costs go up commensurately.
Four door sedans are the models least in demand and bring far less than coupes, convertibles and even two door sedans. Even for the more popular models you would be lucky to get 35-40 percent of what you put in it in terms of what it would sell for. I know you have no expectation of profit but you don't want to get in way over your head either.
With regard to your question #2:
I would pass it up, particularly as a restoration. If you just want to get it running and driveable it would still be expensive and time consuming. Just finding the necessary parts can take months. Plus, if it needs to be shipped, who is going to heft that non-running 3300 lb. of inert metal up onto a car transport? It would be good to figure that one out before making any commitments.
As a SWAG I would estimate a minimum of $15,000 to do an OK but not high quality restoration. It could double the amount and that doesn't count your time or wear and tear on your tools and marital relationship. Very few guys have all the necessary skill sets and a lot of work tends to get farmed out and costs go up commensurately.
Four door sedans are the models least in demand and bring far less than coupes, convertibles and even two door sedans. Even for the more popular models you would be lucky to get 35-40 percent of what you put in it in terms of what it would sell for. I know you have no expectation of profit but you don't want to get in way over your head either.
October 30th, 2013, 04:49 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
General question: Why are you fixated on this particular four door sedan? Is it free? Has it been in your family forever? Why go 2/3 of the way across the country when you can locate a better project closer to home in rust free California?
With regard to your question #2:
I would pass it up, particularly as a restoration. If you just want to get it running and driveable it would still be expensive and time consuming. Just finding the necessary parts can take months. Plus, if it needs to be shipped, who is going to heft that non-running 3300 lb. of inert metal up onto a car transport? It would be good to figure that one out before making any commitments.
As a SWAG I would estimate a minimum of $15,000 to do an OK but not high quality restoration. It could double the amount and that doesn't count your time or wear and tear on your tools and marital relationship. Very few guys have all the necessary skill sets and a lot of work tends to get farmed out and costs go up commensurately.
Four door sedans are the models least in demand and bring far less than coupes, convertibles and even two door sedans. Even for the more popular models you would be lucky to get 35-40 percent of what you put in it in terms of what it would sell for. I know you have no expectation of profit but you don't want to get in way over your head either.
With regard to your question #2:
I would pass it up, particularly as a restoration. If you just want to get it running and driveable it would still be expensive and time consuming. Just finding the necessary parts can take months. Plus, if it needs to be shipped, who is going to heft that non-running 3300 lb. of inert metal up onto a car transport? It would be good to figure that one out before making any commitments.
As a SWAG I would estimate a minimum of $15,000 to do an OK but not high quality restoration. It could double the amount and that doesn't count your time or wear and tear on your tools and marital relationship. Very few guys have all the necessary skill sets and a lot of work tends to get farmed out and costs go up commensurately.
Four door sedans are the models least in demand and bring far less than coupes, convertibles and even two door sedans. Even for the more popular models you would be lucky to get 35-40 percent of what you put in it in terms of what it would sell for. I know you have no expectation of profit but you don't want to get in way over your head either.
I'm not planning on a full restoration and can do most of it myself--hopefully the budget will stay pretty low and the marriage will survive.
October 30th, 2013, 06:13 AM
#27
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,551
It all depends on how deep you get into restoration. If you have some skill, mechanical finesse, an imagination, and some extra cash, I bet you can get it road worthy rather easily. It is a pretty simple car to work on.
October 30th, 2013, 07:41 AM
#28
Proud Viet Nam Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 9,945
Considering the condition of this car and the missing interior, I would make a street rod in a heartbeat. You can pickup a 350 SBC (okay go ahead and start the hate mail) and a turbo 350 pretty cheap plus a ten bolt rear and you have your drive line. Put a clip under the frontend and you are in business. I think the 4-door makes a great street rod since you can put friends, kids or grandkids in the backseat. I think the car is probably too far gone for a restoration. It would be neat to use a 350 Olds but it will probably cost a little more. Keeping it all Oldsmobile would be cool.
October 30th, 2013, 10:19 AM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodland WA
Posts: 1,009
Restoring the 35
It's mostly free and it is a family car. My uncle drove it in high school and parked it in the barn when he went to college. Before that it was the family car so it's been in the family since new.
I'm not planning on a full restoration and can do most of it myself--hopefully the budget will stay pretty low and the marriage will survive.
I'm not planning on a full restoration and can do most of it myself--hopefully the budget will stay pretty low and the marriage will survive.
Being in the family a lifetime makes a huge difference in the 'value' and since it sounds like you just want it to be a runner it will help keep costs down.
Before deciding to take on the project try to find a good grille. That is the one piece I can see in the pics that clearly needs replacement and you probably can't build yourself. There is a business that reproduces some old car grilles http://alumicraft.com/ or get very familiar with craigslist and ebay on the internet to find a good used grille.
Also, does it come with a title? If not will the State it is in issue a title? From what I read California is tough as nails on titling and registration. It would be good to check out and be sure once the car is a runner that you can license it and drive it. Good luck if you decide to go ahead
Jerry
October 30th, 2013, 10:33 PM
#30
Be sure do a lot of research on this car. there is a lot of wood in that car is not easy to fix, nor cheap. make all the notes for and against, decide from there.
For i know, i had one and got it home and found out it was beyond me. Sold it to a guy who had a bunch of them and had the means to fix it.
So do research and way the pros and cons, and how much money do have fix this car. It will take work and lots of money.
Gene
For i know, i had one and got it home and found out it was beyond me. Sold it to a guy who had a bunch of them and had the means to fix it.
So do research and way the pros and cons, and how much money do have fix this car. It will take work and lots of money.
Gene
Last edited by 64Rocket; October 30th, 2013 at 10:35 PM.
October 31st, 2013, 03:21 AM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
________________________________________________
Being in the family a lifetime makes a huge difference in the 'value' and since it sounds like you just want it to be a runner it will help keep costs down.
Before deciding to take on the project try to find a good grille. That is the one piece I can see in the pics that clearly needs replacement and you probably can't build yourself. There is a business that reproduces some old car grilles http://alumicraft.com/ or get very familiar with craigslist and ebay on the internet to find a good used grille.
Also, does it come with a title? If not will the State it is in issue a title? From what I read California is tough as nails on titling and registration. It would be good to check out and be sure once the car is a runner that you can license it and drive it. Good luck if you decide to go ahead
Jerry
Being in the family a lifetime makes a huge difference in the 'value' and since it sounds like you just want it to be a runner it will help keep costs down.
Before deciding to take on the project try to find a good grille. That is the one piece I can see in the pics that clearly needs replacement and you probably can't build yourself. There is a business that reproduces some old car grilles http://alumicraft.com/ or get very familiar with craigslist and ebay on the internet to find a good used grille.
Also, does it come with a title? If not will the State it is in issue a title? From what I read California is tough as nails on titling and registration. It would be good to check out and be sure once the car is a runner that you can license it and drive it. Good luck if you decide to go ahead
Jerry
I'm with you on the grille concern--I'm pretty sure that is one thing that is clearly beyond my fab skills.
I was thinking about approaching one of those shops with a computer driven plasma cutter & coming up with a design that could be cut out of some fairly heavy stock and then bent into the right shape and powder-coated....if that makes any sense.
October 31st, 2013, 06:35 AM
#32
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,551
Be sure do a lot of research on this car. there is a lot of wood in that car is not easy to fix, nor cheap. make all the notes for and against, decide from there.
For i know, i had one and got it home and found out it was beyond me. Sold it to a guy who had a bunch of them and had the means to fix it.
So do research and way the pros and cons, and how much money do have fix this car. It will take work and lots of money.
Gene
For i know, i had one and got it home and found out it was beyond me. Sold it to a guy who had a bunch of them and had the means to fix it.
So do research and way the pros and cons, and how much money do have fix this car. It will take work and lots of money.
Gene
October 31st, 2013, 06:38 AM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,659
Turns out that one of our NTOC members just picked up a '35, might be a little help/info..
http://clubs.hemmings.com/ntexasoca/...et_1013web.pdf
Here's the link to our Oct. issue of the Rocket with the whole story
)
http://clubs.hemmings.com/ntexasoca/...et_1013web.pdf
Here's the link to our Oct. issue of the Rocket with the whole story
)
August 24th, 2014, 07:05 PM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
Been a long time....
Greetings all:
I made my first post more than a year ago and it has taken that long to get the Olds here.
Here it is minus the 50-years of raccoon crap & other nastiness.
I now have the whole front end torn down & have pulled the head.
Aside from a lot of cleaning and some surface rust in the cylinders that had an open valve, things are looking pretty good. I had to pull a couple valves to clean them up & get them moving properly but I think I can bring the old 6 back to life.
I made my first post more than a year ago and it has taken that long to get the Olds here.
Here it is minus the 50-years of raccoon crap & other nastiness.
I now have the whole front end torn down & have pulled the head.
Aside from a lot of cleaning and some surface rust in the cylinders that had an open valve, things are looking pretty good. I had to pull a couple valves to clean them up & get them moving properly but I think I can bring the old 6 back to life.
August 24th, 2014, 08:46 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,584
Very cool car, I built a 37 Chevy Sedan Delivery back in the mid to late 80's from a rusted hull of a body and a frame. I built a street rod took 5.5 years. It won 2 awards in the world of wheels car show when it came through. I love street rods but original is cool too. I also had to remake some of the wood framing inside but it wasnt hard i just used the old as patterns. There are numerous vendors that specialize in 30's cars, but that grill? That might be hard to find, probably not alot of repro Olds grills but then I really dont know. Maybe you will get lucky. I got a grill from a guy named Jay Jolly somewhere in Ca. back in the mid 80's for my Chebby it was perfect, he just put new grill bars in an old frame and had it chromed. I think any GM seat for that style and year would be the same frame perhaps with different upholstery per car brand.
Good luck
Steve
Good luck
Steve
August 25th, 2014, 06:37 AM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 430
Very cool!! I just finished a '37 L-37 Touring Sedan. Your's is much more solid, and more complete than what I started with.
One way to go would be to just get it running & drivable, and leave the body all original, as found.
The AACA, and the hobby in general has come to value original cars more & more. The AACA has a class for cars like that called HPOF (Historic Preservation of Original Features).
Regards, Jerry
One way to go would be to just get it running & drivable, and leave the body all original, as found.
The AACA, and the hobby in general has come to value original cars more & more. The AACA has a class for cars like that called HPOF (Historic Preservation of Original Features).
Regards, Jerry
August 26th, 2014, 02:44 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
Thanks all--making some real progress on the front end but I managed to wreck the drive pulley when I pulled it off.
Anyone know a good source for a replacement?
I've had great luck with Egge machine down near LA for engine parts (head gasket, timing chain, etc.) but they don't carry externa engine stuff.
Anyone know a good source for a replacement?
I've had great luck with Egge machine down near LA for engine parts (head gasket, timing chain, etc.) but they don't carry externa engine stuff.
August 26th, 2014, 03:04 PM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodland WA
Posts: 1,009
Replacement Crank Pulley
Thanks all--making some real progress on the front end but I managed to wreck the drive pulley when I pulled it off.
Anyone know a good source for a replacement?
I've had great luck with Egge machine down near LA for engine parts (head gasket, timing chain, etc.) but they don't carry externa engine stuff.
Anyone know a good source for a replacement?
I've had great luck with Egge machine down near LA for engine parts (head gasket, timing chain, etc.) but they don't carry externa engine stuff.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; August 26th, 2014 at 03:09 PM. Reason: add text to reply
