1970 442 W30 Restoration - ap6954 - ClassicOldsmobile.com


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Old January 16th, 2016, 06:04 PM   #1  
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1970 442 W30 Restoration - ap6954

Starting this thread to share the progress on the restoration of the car I found and shared in another post.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ker-legit.html

I am sure I will solicit help from many of you over the next year or two as I tear down, rebuild, and reassemble this project. I still have to work a full time job so I won't be able to make quick progress!

Today I power blasted inside and out. There was dirt, spiders, and crud under and in the interior from sitting for 30 years. I Inventoried loose parts. Removed seats. Front seats are mint newly covered, and never installed and I have a new matching cover for the back seat they never installed. Dash and console are mint. Seat belts, carpet, door panels, headliner are bad, and all interior panels need recovering. Body analysis. Rust behind the window is the worse. I have a complete filler panel to replace it. Needs a new deck lid. Patches needed on passenger front fender and rear quarter, but looks like I don't need full quarters or fenders. Doors and rockers are excellent. Drivers sail panel and door gutter need work. Fiberglass hood needs a few small repairs. Roof has a few small dents but totally fixable. Needs trunk pan. And front footwell pans. Rest of the floorboards look good. Windshield cowl looks great other than one small hole that can be patched. I have repaired much worse. Core support by battery looks rough and may not be salvageable. Will know when I tear it down. Because the car was partially disassembled I will need a manual for sure. I have a 1969 442 so I can use it as a guide as I am sure many parts are similar. Stay tuned.

















































Last edited by Ap6954; January 17th, 2016 at 08:40 PM.
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Old January 16th, 2016, 06:24 PM   #2  
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Sweet! looks like a great project, subscribed.
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Old January 16th, 2016, 08:22 PM   #3  
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Wow, sweet project! I love that color combo.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 07:28 AM   #4  
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Me too. :-)
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Old January 17th, 2016, 08:11 AM   #5  
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Nice color combo... Can't wait to see it finished...
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Old January 17th, 2016, 08:17 AM   #6  
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Not the worst start I've seen. Looks like a fun project.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 09:55 AM   #7  
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Looks like a great project. Along for the ride.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 10:19 AM   #8  
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Diego, I presume you have one with the same color combo? If so post me a few pics or point me to a thread to inspire me. The beginning of a build is the toughest cause you can't see the end.
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Me too. :-)
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Old January 17th, 2016, 12:36 PM   #9  
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Looks like a great project. Along for the ride.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 01:42 PM   #10  
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Diego, I presume you have one with the same color combo? If so post me a few pics or point me to a thread to inspire me. The beginning of a build is the toughest cause you can't see the end.
The pics don't do it justice. When clean, with low light (like after a storm), the blue really shines, almost looking like toothpaste gel. I've seen very few cars with blue stripes, but they seem to pop up on occasion (likely they're more popular than I believe, with the rate of attrition and repaints ruining the chances of seeing another one). Strangely, I think Azure Blue may be the most popular color I've seen with blue stripes, as Azure Blue doesn't seem to be the most performance-oriented color). Also have seen them with dark blue and silver cars, although I know they were available with a few other colors.

Interestingly, other brands were using the same color (or something close to it). I am guessing the paint companies were peddling what they thought was the trend at the time.
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File Type: jpg bluestripedRT.JPG (272.7 KB, 102 views)
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Old January 17th, 2016, 03:01 PM   #11  
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Wink

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The pics don't do it justice. When clean, with low light (like after a storm), the blue really shines, almost looking like toothpaste gel. I've seen very few cars with blue stripes, but they seem to pop up on occasion (likely they're more popular than I believe, with the rate of attrition and repaints ruining the chances of seeing another one). Strangely, I think Azure Blue may be the most popular color I've seen with blue stripes, as Azure Blue doesn't seem to be the most performance-oriented color). Also have seen them with dark blue and silver cars, although I know they were available with a few other colors.

Interestingly, other brands were using the same color (or something close to it). I am guessing the paint companies were peddling what they thought was the trend at the time.
Wait ,what the stripe color isn't "azure blue"
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Old January 17th, 2016, 03:02 PM   #12  
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Nope. You're not the first person to think it was.

Besides, how can you have an Azure stripe on an Azure car?
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Old January 17th, 2016, 03:07 PM   #13  
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Nope. You're not the first person to think it was.

Besides, how can you have an Azure stripe on an Azure car?
just messin with ya, I know that gets you riled up a bit.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 03:09 PM   #14  
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:-)
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Old January 17th, 2016, 03:36 PM   #15  
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Does look familiar ... doesn't it ?? lol
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Old January 17th, 2016, 04:57 PM   #16  
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Thanks Diego for the picture. Nice! I did a little more cleaning and cataloging today. The rust is really not that bad on the fender and quarter behind the wheels and all 4 fender lips are excellent. And the doors and rockers are amazingly clean. I looked in the doors and there is zero rust at the seam. Crazy. Wonder why the doors are so clean. They are original doors. One of the pictures shows the spot in the door where the rubber plug is that I removed. Why did they have those plugs in the doors anyways? Got all the interior trim panels out and headliner. No data tags or build sheet. Bummer. Still have not dropped the gas tank yet though or pulled the bucket seat backs off.








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Old January 17th, 2016, 07:59 PM   #17  
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Very nice Olds, looks like a great start on a rare car.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 08:31 PM   #18  
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Progress update

Have spent the last few weekends disassembling and bagging and tagging parts. Got the front clip off. Passenger fender needs no metal work. Drivers fender needs just an outer patch behind the wheel, as the inner fender brace is fine. The fiberglass hood has a few small cracks that will attention and a little rust on the inner structure at the nose. The core support is pretty bad under the battery so a new one is probably in order. As I proceed to getting the rest disassembed I have a question for the experienced frame off resto guys as this is my first full frame off. I think I am going to send the body off to be worked while I do the chassis restoration. I can do the easy metal work on fenders and such, but the body straightening work is best left to the pros. What have others found to be the best process for this method? Send the body to the shop on a dolly for them to blast, straighten and work and then mate up the primered body to the finished chassis for final panel fit and paint? I want to do most of the reassembly and detail work but want the final body and paint work done by the pros. Also any recommendation for a shop in the south Louisiana area?

Last edited by Ap6954; January 26th, 2016 at 04:31 AM.
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Old March 6th, 2016, 03:39 PM   #19  
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Trunk metal work update

Project update. Got some time this weekend to do some of the metal work on the trunk. Fit and tacked in the new rear window channel, and new weatherstrip channel around three sides. Thanks for the parts oldspackrat! Just need my son to come and tig weld it all up. He lays a much prettier bead than me.







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Old March 6th, 2016, 03:49 PM   #20  
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Trunk lid. Repair or replace?

What would you do? The trunk lid I have is the original "flat" lid without the circles stamped into the inner structure. But......it has rust damage in the inner structure by the lock mechanism, and pop through rust at a few spots at the lower outer lid that can easily be cut out and replaced with new metal. The seams all around the lid are real nice, with only light surface rust elsewhere. I have been unable to locate a nice original lid and am trying to avoid using repro parts of possible. Would you buy a repop and use a part of the inner structure to repair this lid, or just use a repop lid and trash this one?







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Old March 7th, 2016, 06:44 AM   #21  
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I think that one is a little too far gone. I'd keep searching for a good solid original before going with an aftermarket.
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Old March 28th, 2016, 08:17 PM   #22  
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Thumbs up Nice!

I just stumbled across your build thread. Looks like a really cool car! Have fun with the restoration. I'm going to join the crowd and follow along
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Old April 17th, 2016, 02:58 PM   #23  
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Progress update- patch welding and date code search

Progress in the last few weeks has been limited to finishing adding a few small patches to repair some rust in the rear window channel, and pulling the fuel tank to allow patching a few small spots in the trunk pan. Under the spare tire and by the front edge. No paperwork under the tank. There was not the usual anti squeak mat under the tank like I thought should be there.






I did get under and look for the date stamp on he w27 axle. It's not where Stefano showed me. The only stamp is a faint "L" on the left side shown in he picture below. Any ideas what that means?





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Old April 17th, 2016, 04:30 PM   #24  
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I did get under and look for the date stamp on he w27 axle. It's not where Stefano showed me. The only stamp is a faint "L" on the left side shown in he picture below. Any ideas what that means?





WOW. that makes the car worth restoring no matter how bad the rest is. In my opinion that's the holy grail!
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Old February 11th, 2018, 02:27 PM   #25  
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Mounting Body to Rotisseree

Have not posted in a while. Life gets in the way as everyone knows. I have all the major rust repair done except welding out the replacement front floor pans. I Will be mounting the body on a rotisseree shortly to finish the welding on the front floor pans and blast and finish the underside. This is the first A body I have done but I assume it will be ok to mount the body to the rotisseree using the front body to frame mounts in he front and the rear body to frame mounts in he back. Is this how others do this? The mounts are in great shape so I assume they are strong enough.
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Old February 11th, 2018, 05:45 PM   #26  
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Yes



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Old February 11th, 2018, 06:03 PM   #27  
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Watch out for assume (***). just look for cracks or rusted out mount.
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Old February 12th, 2018, 07:49 AM   #28  
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Appreciate the photos and heads up. I will be sure to inspect the mounts well first and then plan on using them if all looks good

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Watch out for assume (***). just look for cracks or rusted out mount.
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Old February 12th, 2018, 02:55 PM   #29  
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What did you wind up with regarding the engine and trans with this car? I read back through this and your other thread but I didn't notice. Forgive me if I overlooked it.
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Old February 12th, 2018, 08:10 PM   #30  
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Itís not the original motor or trans. I knew that when I bought it. It has a Fa block right now. The original engine and trans were pulled when the car was stolen back in the 70ís from the original owner. I need to find a 70 date coded block for it. Thatís as close as I can get unless some miracle drops the original block in my lap.
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What did you wind up with regarding the engine and trans with this car? I read back through this and your other thread but I didn't notice. Forgive me if I overlooked it.
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Old February 13th, 2018, 12:13 PM   #31  
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Saw your window sticker and also your build date of 12A. Added them to my W-30 file. Yeah, it is tough not having the engine or trans. Still a great find with that W-27. Did you find any identifying marks on the inside of the fenders?
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Old February 18th, 2018, 07:29 AM   #32  
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The only markings I found on the inner front fenders was this fainting marking which looks like a grease pencil mark. Hard to make it out. Didnít they write w30 or W on the inner fender of many w30 builds? This picture kind of looks like it could it but tough to make it out. It is the original flat top 1970 fender.



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Saw your window sticker and also your build date of 12A. Added them to my W-30 file. Yeah, it is tough not having the engine or trans. Still a great find with that W-27. Did you find any identifying marks on the inside of the fenders?
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Old February 18th, 2018, 03:10 PM   #33  
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The only markings I found on the inner front fenders was this fainting marking which looks like a grease pencil mark. Hard to make it out. Didnít they write w30 or W on the inner fender of many w30 builds? This picture kind of looks like it could it but tough to make it out. It is the original flat top 1970 fender.
Go to this page below and look at Stefano's pictures. It was awesome to see those markings and I'm glad he shared them.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-track-13.html
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Old March 5th, 2018, 09:04 PM   #34  
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Finally got the body on the rotiseree and did some code searching. Found some great info to document. Found a great clean partial matching VIN stamped on the drivers side frame just in front of the rear tire. Found the AO Smith frame stamping in the drivers rear behind the rear wheels. 11 18 date for a 12A build car is about right. Also did some more wiping dirt off the inner front fender and found a W30 chalk mark near the emblem holes. Only thing I did not find is there is no date code on the W27 axle chunk. Kinda odd unless it was stamped real light. I guess a detailed search is in order when I get the axle on the bench. Will need someone to rebuild it for me either way

Inner fender mark
On the rotiseree
Frame manufacturer stamp
Frame partial VIN
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