finally painted my console Friday and assembled it today, got to see some final assemble on some component's I have been waiting to see come together. compartment flocking in the console looks nice and factory. still need to do some compartment lid adjusting. also started on the eng. Saturday will post pics. hopefully tomorrow.

 

Console looks great!

 

started the day Friday by removing the gold paint someone put on my 455 which is always blue used paint remover and then pressure washed it with super clean detergent. Saturday I removed the oil pan, timing cover and did some internal cks. the crank had polish only written on it so I guess when the eng. was rebuilt they only had to polish the crank , which is a plus in my book. then I installed the timing cover and my x water pump I got from scott at the 2013 nationals. cleaned up the intake and masked if off sunday alone with installing the notched valve covers and new oil pan which did not fit worth a flip, I had to modify the baffle as it was hitting the oil pump. finally got to put some paint on it Monday afternoon. will install other eng. components during the week tonight is time for boo-ray, food, and fun with my old high school class mates

 

Looking Good !

 

X2, looking forward to the reassembly of all those pretty parts.

 

blasted 40% and primed the lower body and around the back glass and the trunk jam area. The rear fender weal's had only the same paint on them as the lower body did no undercoating at all. also found the TT stamp on the fire wall as it was painted over at one time on its 46 year journey.

 

with more good weather this weekend I got to finish blasting the bottom and fire wall also blasted a few spot on the inside floor. primed all blasted surfaces this 2k primer. and hope for more good weather.

 

thanks to Easyd I now have a set of n o s trim rings for my car. over the last two weekends I have been repairing some cancer I found when sandblasting the bottom of the car at the lower firewall area were the fenders bolt up. I replaced the metal with some galvanized metal I had that was only .005 over the original thickness of .023 had to do both sides. also started on doing some repairs on some older body work that was done to the right hand rear quarter and lower rocker. will post pictures later of the outcome of the quarter repairs
thanks for looking ray

 

The corrosion in the driver's lower cowl area is pretty typical. Your repair is looking very good.. Be careful when welding the galvanized, breathing the smoke is not so good for your health.. Looking forward to the end product, nice car!

 

Looking good Ray! Glad I could help you with the NOS trim rings. We will talk again soon. Your doing a fine job. Keep it up!

 

thanks Funkwagon455 for the heads up on the galvanized welding fumes, I was aware of this as one of my sons got sick welding on some galvanized tank steel while making a water dam in the marsh many years ago. Did some cleaning on my door vent louvers today. Took them apart by using a razor blade to cut of the melted section on all the tabs on the backside and used a small screw driver to separate the flaps and retainer. cleaned them several times with super clean and rinsed them of very well. used some 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the light scratches and set my buffing pad r. p. m. s to 1700 to buff a shine back to the louvers. one coat of wax and reassembled them, just had to snap the retainers back on, no glue and they fit tight on worry of them coming back apart

 

Great work Ray! These kinds of details are what I love. Many people have no idea just how much work it is to do a car to this level.

 

Started on my right rear quarter panel and rocker repairs that were done not so well. I guess when u have the car all apart things are easier to repair. I removed about a quart of bond off of the right rear quarter panel and lower rocker to start doing sheet metal work by straightening the quarter and replacing a section of the lower rocker that was beyond straightening. fabricated a replacement section and welded it in, now all I need my body man will work his magic on doing the finish work.

 

Could not work on the body this weekend but did some engine assembly added the manifolds, p/s and brackets, a/c brackets, alt. and brackets, tcs sw. and tvc valve, vacuum hose kit. also installed the n o s heater cont. valve, choke heat stove and pipes, thermostat housing and by-pass hose, oil sender (original) and temp. sender. crankshaft pulley and w/p pulley. the intake bolts and washers are at brakeboosters.com being recoated.

 

Looking good Ray!

 

thanks for the nice words tru-blue 442. I was in need of a hood latch cover for my t-44 option hood lock. I couldn't find one so Patton (70-post)decided he would make one for me and below are picture of the outcome it is unreal how nice it came out, looks just like and original, even before I paint it. many thanks patton.

 

I had purchased an oai unit a the 2013 nationals (a repop) but just found a decent original unit on epay which I am restoring have the, original foam with it and the vac. motor, but the diagrams is leaking so I may have to replace the motor. blasted, primed and sprayed the housing with gloss lacquer also stamped the date code on the housing which I am very pleased with.


cleaned the lid with a mild soap sanded a few scratches with 400, 600, then 1500 and 2000 then buffed it out with my buffing wheel at a low speed. to bring back the gloss.


clean the heater vacuum regulator and tested it with heat gun and vacuum applied seems to open at about 100 degree's which is correct, the heater vacuum diaphragm holds vacuum and test good, just have to mock up the vacuum hoses and the tee.


the first pic is the lid before I perchased it, the next 3 are of the base after blasting priming and painting with the new date code stampings, the last one is the lid after cleaning and buffing with the original foam.


still have to deal with how to do the foam to get it to look like the light green original finish any suggestions would be appreciated.
as always thanks for looking

 

Started working on my a/c comp. among other things over the last two weeks. tore down the comp. assembly to inspect all the thrust bearings washers and needle bearings, oil pump cyl. walls, rings, shoes and reed plates all look very good.


cleaned and lub. all internal parts and reassembled the internal unit


cleaned and blasted all external parts applied two light coat of gloss lacquer and added r-12 525 viscosity refrigerant oil to the sump reassembled the internal cyl. back into the housing with all new o-rings and front seal.


after assembling the cylinder back into the housing I cleaned the housing good with grease and wax remover and shot a final coat of lacquer


replace the pulley bearing with a new national bearing, and installed the coil, pulley and clutch, sprayed the clutch with nason flat black. the second to last pic. is the date code which is J ( 9th mouth) the 15 day which would be right for a car built 11A . the main tag matches the compressors of joe and erics cars


made up my own final test stamp and pressure test the unit, now it is on the shelve waiting with the other parts to be installed hopefully in the near future.

 

That looks sweet, nice work. I've never seen one apart before. Seems like you've done this before? Any special tools needed for pulling and such? Where did you get all rebuild parts? What else is needed for conversion?

 

Very nice! With me being in the refrigeration business you would think I would have done mine myself but just didn't want my first attempt to be on my W-30. I am looking forward to seeing your car when it is done.

 

Its really coming along nice, you are quite the talent.

 

thanks for all the nice words scrappie, eric and oldcutlass, I decided to disassemble and inspect the internal cyl. on the comp. as back in the early 70s g m had a rash of a/c comp. with bad thrust bearing that would wash out and make a terribly moaning noise. back in those days we had to repair all units (alt., starters. comp. trans. ) anything that would come apart had to be repaired not replaced factory warranty would not pay for a unit replacement without authorization. the overhaul procedure for the comp. overhaul is in the service manual and does require a holding fixture that squeezes the cyl. haves tightly together and the 4 different tools for the front seal. two to remove and install the clutch and two to remove and install the front shaft seal.


thanks ray

 

to answer your question Scrappie I'm staying with R-12. ended up finding a 30# jug at a swap meet of R-12 and the head pressures on R134 are higher.
ray

 

Uh, I'd just like to have some A/C. Ha! Great job on the process and pictures.

 

Looking great Ray - that car is going to be a standard for all others. Did your compressor still have any remnants of that inspection stamp on it before you rebuilt it? I carefully looked mine over and it didn't have any signs of one. I asked a couple of guys about it here on CO and they think the inspection stamp wasn't on 70 cars - the last year was 68 or 69. Let me know if you want to sell one - I need it for my 68 Hurst I'm working on.

 

good to hear from u joe, I see u are working on another car and it is looking good you really must love saving these car. on my stamp, I saw were eric had it on his comp. he got back from classic air and always like this detail on the comp. I did work on many of them back in the days when I was at the olds dealer. I really don't remember seeing the stamp on them, but at that time I my life these thing were not important to me I wanted to get them fixed and out the door. Were they are located it is really hard to see them even if they are there. keep u the good work on your car.


p. s. would really like to have the w-31 Ctls442 has for sale

 

I have a couple used compressors that still have the stamp. I will try to get some pictures tonight.

 

if you could post some original compressor stamps eric that would be great
let us know what year you think they are of off
thanks ray

 

UPS Santa deliver me a present from Californian today
got more parts from brake boosters. com
got in my hood hinges, hood latch (t44)and cover Patton made me, also my eng. to frame mounting pads that I had gray phosphate plated.


also about 300 pieces of nuts, bolts and washers black phosphate plated.


only one gold plated part the master cyl. original cover that I spent about 4 hours polishing out the few rust pits on but it paid off because it came out very nice.


had the horn relay and comp. hold in relay, fuse box bolt, dimmer sw. button (I dismantled my dimmer sw.)4 washer pump bolts, 4 alt. housing bolts, alt. pulley, and fan, starter bolts all clear zinc plated

 

Purdy!

 

Very nice, great work so far!

 

You are doing an exceptional job Ray! I'm curious about the radio, because I was going to send one of mine out to that same place. Is it back yet?

 

You are doing a very nice job! Excellent car to start with, very nice craftsmanship.

 

I sent my radio to joes classic radio I got it back after about 9 weeks and he fixed multiple problems with it the stereo lamp was out, the on off sw. worked at times, the volume was very low and no volume out of the rear speaker. I had cleaned up the face and buttons, they came out very nice. he also tighten the selector bar and adjusted the face switching strings. it now plays very loud on am and fm and catches many stations on fm, the price for a unit with the 2 piece multiplex ran me 400.00 with return shipping included. I think it is 75.00 less for none multiplex the warranty is lifetime if I am not mistaken. he has no ph. # on his website but he did end up calling me.
hope this helps thanks ray

 

Thanks for the radio update Ray. I knew you sent it to Joe's, then I knew you were worried but finally had communicated with them. Sounds good, I'll give them a try on my 1967 FM radio. Glad it worked out for for you.

 

managed to install the eng. on the frame yesterday, after being taken out of it since 2007 by a previous owner, the anchor mounts lined up o k in the front holes but were of 1/4 on the back side. I made some marks remove the eng. and with a cut off bit remove the necessary material and the bouts went right in.


installed the starter with the pos. bat. cable and starter/ign. wire harness. then managed to finish the wire harness to the ign. coil and I had to replace the coil resistor wire that someone had removed and installed a resistor on the fire wall. hopefully to detail the trans. and install it next.


installed the air cleaner tag. with thanks to jstrits for sending me the location of the tag after measuring the location on his original oai cleaner with the O N tag

 

a lot has happen sense my last post.

got all the body striped to the metal and all body parts are etch primed and 2k primed, finish doing the first round of blocking on all body components except for the hood and the l f fender.

finished installing the carb I got from Doug Segal ( no restamp this time verified by Samo), fuel line to carb. with some tweaking, hot air tube. also need to make it fit was to long, dashpot, and mocked up the O A I unit.

also got in my gardener exhaust system yesterday looking to install it during the coming week. hopefully will be firing up the Eng. soon.

cleaned up the trans. scrubbed and brushed on it almost all day while trying deferent cleaners. after brushing it down with supper clean avoiding the original O W stencil marking, this I cleaned with a mild detergent and was amazed how there was still enough of it to show up well without redoing it. also used a small stainless hand brush with some diluted muriatic acid to completely brush the whole housing again with a good hosing for about 10 minuets to make shore all the acid washed off. was on the fence about painting it but the nature finish looked good enough to leave it as is. installed the replated dip stick and tube, and N O S trans. modulator.

 

Looking good Ray! Glad to see that carb on that engine. Ready to hear it purr.

 

WOW! This car is going to be amazing!
Keep up the amazing work.

 

Thanks for the kind words bigin1978 u are doing a fantastic job on your 72 as well