nderise 70 w-30 restoration
January 2nd, 2015, 06:35 PM
#81
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Ray, allstate gasketvsellnred rubber gasket material in different thicknesses
www.allstategasket.com you could use a piece of copper pipe in the right diameter to cut the holes just chamfer the end with a sander or grinder just a thought..
www.allstategasket.com you could use a piece of copper pipe in the right diameter to cut the holes just chamfer the end with a sander or grinder just a thought..
January 2nd, 2015, 06:50 PM
#82
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grangers
Ray, allstate gasketvsellnred rubber gasket material in different thicknesses
www.allstategasket.com you could use a piece of copper pipe in the right diameter to cut the holes just chamfer the end with a sander or grinder just a thought..
www.allstategasket.com you could use a piece of copper pipe in the right diameter to cut the holes just chamfer the end with a sander or grinder just a thought..
thanks again ray
January 3rd, 2015, 06:25 AM
#84
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date coded replacement glass
joe this is for your attention I know u replace a glass and anyone that has replaced any date coded glass. I plan on replacing all the glass on my car as my original glass has scratches on them and the windshield was cracked (was a replacement one anyway). can anyone share there experience with me on who supplys the best date coded glass.
Last edited by NDERISE; January 3rd, 2015 at 11:30 AM.
January 3rd, 2015, 01:25 PM
#85
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Beautiful work on your restoration. I am in the process of restoring my 71 442 and will have to tackle the seat belts soon. How do you remove the buckle covers? I notice Ames performance (pontiac) sell the deluxe seat belt buckle covers for $15.00 apiece. Mine have small pits coming through the satin silver finish. I would love to replace them, but I don't know if they are of decent quality or not.
By the way, I always loved that 70 gold interior color.
By the way, I always loved that 70 gold interior color.
January 4th, 2015, 04:28 PM
#86
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Beautiful work on your restoration. I am in the process of restoring my 71 442 and will have to tackle the seat belts soon. How do you remove the buckle covers? I notice Ames performance (pontiac) sell the deluxe seat belt buckle covers for $15.00 apiece. Mine have small pits coming through the satin silver finish. I would love to replace them, but I don't know if they are of decent quality or not.
By the way, I always loved that 70 gold interior color.
By the way, I always loved that 70 gold interior color.
hope this helps u ray
January 5th, 2015, 05:50 AM
#87
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Thanks for the instructions. Based on the fact you said they came apart, I went at it yesterday and did figure it out. Glad I read this thread. I repainted the GM logo push button area and cleaned up the buckles on a few of them. I would like to replace a couple of the large satin covers but overall it's going well. I even used SEM spray to freshen up the black webbing. I'll keep watching your progress. Cheers.
January 7th, 2015, 04:56 PM
#88
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a/c cond.
reconditioned my a/c cond. many months ago but decided to post a couple of pics. for the people flowing my thread. I have about 8 hours just in time to straighten the finds that were bent not counting cleaning and painting. I have been working on my frame lately and will post pics. of it shortly, weather permitting progress.
January 9th, 2015, 04:30 AM
#89
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tire press tag
had to replace the metal at my speaker openings as some one had bougered (cut out the middle section) them up thanks to my parts car I have the replacement metal I needed to do the repairs
my tire press. tag is diff. from costpenn and I am having trouble to find a replacement one. mine has 4 4 2 on it only. I like the word (cool) in prentices instead of the way tags read on most car of today, they read cold instead of cool sound like the common word the kids use now a days instead of saying good or great they just say cool.
also found frame stamping at the left rear frame rail.
my tire press. tag is diff. from costpenn and I am having trouble to find a replacement one. mine has 4 4 2 on it only. I like the word (cool) in prentices instead of the way tags read on most car of today, they read cold instead of cool sound like the common word the kids use now a days instead of saying good or great they just say cool.
also found frame stamping at the left rear frame rail.
Last edited by NDERISE; January 9th, 2015 at 04:41 AM. Reason: add
January 9th, 2015, 05:15 AM
#90
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very nice..
Very nice metal work yourself Ray, I think I have that same sticker on one of the replacement doors I bought?
As for cool and cold, cold is the look the missus gives you when you come home with a new project, cool is what your buddies say when you come home with a new project lol
As for cool and cold, cold is the look the missus gives you when you come home with a new project, cool is what your buddies say when you come home with a new project lol
January 9th, 2015, 05:50 AM
#91
I think I will start posting a few pics. of my progress on my car as now I have a phone that I can take decent pictures of my restoration on my car.
this are my inner fender which were in poor condition. I had to repair a few holes on the drivers side one and some spots that had a small crack, the small cracks I repaired by drilling 1/32 hold throw the cracked area and pushing stainless steel rods into the holds which prevents the crack from moving. also had to repair a couple of speed nut holes where they bolt up under the fender wheel opening. I used 3-m plastic bumper repair epoxy for the repairs. sanded the epoxy as u would bondo and primed with sems plastic primer. made my staples for the splash shields out of some stainless rod stock and located the staples in the original holes. worked on these inner fender for 4 weekends. I think they came out satisfactory considering the condition they were in. I considered using replacements but they are just not as good as the originals
ray
this are my inner fender which were in poor condition. I had to repair a few holes on the drivers side one and some spots that had a small crack, the small cracks I repaired by drilling 1/32 hold throw the cracked area and pushing stainless steel rods into the holds which prevents the crack from moving. also had to repair a couple of speed nut holes where they bolt up under the fender wheel opening. I used 3-m plastic bumper repair epoxy for the repairs. sanded the epoxy as u would bondo and primed with sems plastic primer. made my staples for the splash shields out of some stainless rod stock and located the staples in the original holes. worked on these inner fender for 4 weekends. I think they came out satisfactory considering the condition they were in. I considered using replacements but they are just not as good as the originals
ray
January 9th, 2015, 02:53 PM
#92
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If you're referring to the vertical vs. horizontal tire pressure sticker, this has been discussed here before. Sorry, I don't have a link. The vertical sticker was used before a certain date during the 1970 model year; the horizontal sticker after. There was a change in the door itself as well. Perhaps this was a Federally-required safety change to the door, resulting in a change to the sticker?
January 9th, 2015, 03:18 PM
#93
If you're referring to the vertical vs. horizontal tire pressure sticker, this has been discussed here before. Sorry, I don't have a link. The vertical sticker was used before a certain date during the 1970 model year; the horizontal sticker after. There was a change in the door itself as well. Perhaps this was a Federally-required safety change to the door, resulting in a change to the sticker?
Last edited by costpenn; January 9th, 2015 at 03:22 PM.
January 9th, 2015, 08:44 PM
#95
drdecal.com - Mark Cornea reproductions - makes one like yours but I don't know if it will be close enough for your standards. As I was thinking, Cornea catalogs it for 1969. Apparently Olds used the '69 stickers until they ran out on early production 70 cars so sometime between mid November and late January they switched over to the "70" design.
January 10th, 2015, 05:37 AM
#97
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Led
THANKS FOR THE LED ON DR DECAL JOE I WHENT ON HIS WEB SITE AND U ARE WRIGHT HE HAS A TAG THAT IS CLOSE BUT IT HAS A DIFF. TIRE PRESS. AND THE WRONG I. D. CODE EVERY THING ELSE LOOKS TO BE THE SAME.
ERICE THANKS FOR THE PICTURE OF YOURS, JUST OUT OF curiosity WHAT ARE U GOING TO REPLACE YOURS WITH. I THINK I WILL E-MAIL DR. DECAL TO SEE IF HE CAN REPRODUCE OUR TAGS.
ERICE THANKS FOR THE PICTURE OF YOURS, JUST OUT OF curiosity WHAT ARE U GOING TO REPLACE YOURS WITH. I THINK I WILL E-MAIL DR. DECAL TO SEE IF HE CAN REPRODUCE OUR TAGS.
Last edited by NDERISE; January 10th, 2015 at 07:31 AM.
January 10th, 2015, 05:44 AM
#98
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I have not looked into it till this morning when I seen the topic come up. I had not known there was a difference till now. I will have to look into it further before I order any decals.
January 10th, 2015, 06:46 AM
#99
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If you get him to make them just like these I will take two of them. Don't look like there is anything even close to this from what I am finding. Even the ones with the wrong pressure on them have several tire options and ours has G 70 X 14 only.
January 10th, 2015, 07:26 AM
#100
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Emailed
I just sent mark cornea an email with the different between the 69 tag and ours and a picture of my tag, will let u know if I get a responds from him.
January 10th, 2015, 08:48 AM
#101
Shoveling Snow
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Not muckup the thread too much this was on my 70 442 conv.
DSC07674_zpsbeef4fb0.jpg
And I'm not sure what this fits but I only collected 70 A body at one time so I think this is 70.
DSC07673_zps18486aad.jpg
DSC07674_zpsbeef4fb0.jpg
And I'm not sure what this fits but I only collected 70 A body at one time so I think this is 70.
DSC07673_zps18486aad.jpg
January 10th, 2015, 11:16 AM
#102
[ATTACH]
[/ATTACH]
Paul, the OA is the '70 L6 and 350 V-8 non wagon A body sticker according to the PIM. On the other one, it is not correct per the PIM, but so many cars have it that either someone in Lansing didnt get the memo about the part change until sometime between late Nov. and mid Jan., or a revision in the drawing dated Nov. 20 1969 changed it to the OB style. (It is revision J, but it does not state what actually was revised on that date)
BTW - this info comes from that legible PIM I bought from you.
[/ATTACH]
BTW - this info comes from that legible PIM I bought from you.
Last edited by costpenn; January 10th, 2015 at 11:22 AM.
January 10th, 2015, 01:42 PM
#105
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reply
eric I got a reply back from mark at dr decal he said the they are not doing the 1st version of the 70 tire tag. I email him back and asked him how many I would have to order for him to start printing them, wait for a reply. I might try to make a few for us, wish I new how joe did the other parts tags so quickly
January 10th, 2015, 08:51 PM
#106
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tire tag
worked on this tag for 3 hrs think its close enough. now I need to find something to print it onto. looking for any suggestions on were to get a weather proof material to print onto preferably with a adhesive back
Last edited by NDERISE; January 11th, 2015 at 06:20 AM.
January 11th, 2015, 06:45 AM
#107
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I saw laser because I think an inkjet label will runwhen wet,
Again you can spray with lacquer from a rattlecan after before putting on
January 11th, 2015, 10:26 AM
#108
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tire tag
had to do some maintenances on my printer this morning as the picture I posted last night was small and blurry. but got my printer to print like it should. these are pics of my original tag and my repo. its not perfect but close, don't think u could tell the diff. unless u had the original one and the repo. side by side, also cleaned up my eng. to frame pads yesterday and found good indication of the gray phosphate coatings they had on them. now just need some material to print on and as eddie said someone with a laser printer.
thanks for the info. eddie
thanks for the info. eddie
Last edited by NDERISE; January 11th, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
January 11th, 2015, 10:46 AM
#109
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You forgot to put "psi" next to each of the large red "24" tire pressure numbers and there's a period (.) dot missing down on the bottom right number (after the "950"). Sorry, I spent a lot of time re-reading/proofing, etc materials in prior careers so I can't help myself!
Very nice work!....really enjoy seeing your detailed work and efforts.
Very nice work!....really enjoy seeing your detailed work and efforts.
Last edited by 70Post; January 11th, 2015 at 10:54 AM.
January 11th, 2015, 11:47 AM
#110
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thanks patton
thanks patton for the cking u did no need to apologize I need someone to proof read it my eyes were starting to cross at about 11:00 last night I new I had to do the psi and forgot but did miss the (.) period. I also reworked the dots in the 4 4 2 at the top as they were to large and the O I code. here is a pic with the corrections
Last edited by NDERISE; January 11th, 2015 at 11:50 AM.
January 11th, 2015, 01:34 PM
#112
Shoveling Snow
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Look at spacing between the original and your proof. Look at letter alignment up down and side to side.
Look at other fonts available to help with this. Choose a darker red your a little light on saturation.
The 442 is a little large at the top. Looks very good for the first try at it.
Look at other fonts available to help with this. Choose a darker red your a little light on saturation.
The 442 is a little large at the top. Looks very good for the first try at it.
Last edited by Hairy Olds; January 11th, 2015 at 01:36 PM.
January 11th, 2015, 01:59 PM
#113
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no photocopy
this not a photocopy, and if the original was on one car and the repo. on another car I think no one would question either one as these tags are only 1.80" by 2.45" in size they are small and the fonts on them even smaller. I did go throw my fonts list and what I used is as close as I could find. maybe if I had additional fonts software I might find something but I don't, this will do for me
January 11th, 2015, 02:34 PM
#114
Shoveling Snow
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And theres not a problem with that your in the ball park. But with a little fine tuning it could be perfect, well as close as one can be with todays fonts.
Take a look at my trans ID tag decal it's not perfect and I did that for a reason.
Take your file to a sign printer and they should be able to help you. Make sure they use a UV coating with a satin clear.
Take a look at my trans ID tag decal it's not perfect and I did that for a reason.
Take your file to a sign printer and they should be able to help you. Make sure they use a UV coating with a satin clear.
dark red
January 11th, 2015, 06:46 PM
#117
January 11th, 2015, 09:42 PM
#118
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I was wondering about your eyes when you mentioned earlier "this is what I have after 3 hours on the computer".......I could feel the pain when I read that and figured yours eyes were probably bugging out!! That's some serious tenacity and persistence....especially when it comes to messing with computers.
January 18th, 2015, 05:18 PM
#119
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ewww la la!! That's nice!
I was wondering about your eyes when you mentioned earlier "this is what I have after 3 hours on the computer".......I could feel the pain when I read that and figured yours eyes were probably bugging out!! That's some serious tenacity and persistence....especially when it comes to messing with computers.
I was wondering about your eyes when you mentioned earlier "this is what I have after 3 hours on the computer".......I could feel the pain when I read that and figured yours eyes were probably bugging out!! That's some serious tenacity and persistence....especially when it comes to messing with computers.
January 18th, 2015, 05:26 PM
#120
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Frame
Worked on blasting my frame this weekend got it dome Saturday sorry no powder coating for me I am old School I etch primed it and then 2k primed so I can do the necessary body work I need to do on it. It came out very well with hardly any pitting got to Love a north Texas car except for the area under the master cyl. Will post pics later my main internet is down
Last edited by NDERISE; January 18th, 2015 at 05:52 PM.
