jensenracing77

If I had to do it over I would not powder coat either. I am lucky though, My powder coater is incredible at getting the inside. Most do not get the inside much if any.

NDERISE

could not post pics. of my frame blasting and painting I did over the week end as my internet service was down but is now up and working. finally got some sunshine in our area to do some blasting and painting. got the frame blasted between Friday and Saturday and put some etch primer and gray primer on it Sunday. there is very little pitting on the frame. there are two areas that have some pitting, at the l. f. frame horn battery area and below the master cyl. area no scaling just very small pits. three are four coats of primer should cover them with sanding in between. I will have to do some epoxy work at the drivers side rear lower rail, and a few other nicks and scrapes.

NDERISE

got a major order in today from legendary 2 wrong parts and dash and console wood grain that is off from the original texture and look will send them back. ordered the outside window sweeps and they sent me a complete kit I don't need the inside sweep's as I ordered the assembled door panels. anyone know were is the best place to get the best wood grain.


thanks ray

jensenracing77

Just yesterday I was told that H&H has the best wood grain. I personally have not compared H&H to other brands but I am happy with the wood grain from him I installed on my car. I did have other product from him that I was not happy with but not a problem with the wood grain.

NDERISE

thanks for the input eric, I did buy the dual-gate shift cover from him at the 2013 national and it is close as u said I guess I will order the remaining set from him.
thanks ray

NDERISE

call legendary today to return parts that were wrong and the one I did not like. I always try to deal with the same person I order with that helps when returning parts. I returned a pair of stainless trim for the arm rest bases that they sent me instead of the actual bases. I got my door panel assembly's with them as they come with the window sweeps, so I needed the outside window sweeps and they only come in a kit with the inner and outer sweeps. I told him I don't need the inners as I got the assemble door panels with them and he agreed with me but could not help me with just the outers (sucks). also got the wrong seat back panels as they sent me ones for a 69 with the button hole on the side. also sent back the wood grain I/P panels and console panel. all went smooth took every think back with no hassle just like it should be. just wish they would get it right the first time.

NDERISE

these are all the frame stampings I found on my frame and the locations of them if anyone what to know were to find there serial #s and frame #s and there locations. the first one is in the center of the passenger side rail about in the middle of the frame and is stamped IL, the second pic. is also in the middle of the frame but on the driver side and is stamped II. the third pic. is the vin and is also stamped on the driver side about 1 foot back from the outer frame rail and the 4th pic. is the vin. stamped again on the drivers side about 1 foot forward of the outer frame rail. take note that the vin # in pic 4 has the last digit very high the tool used to stamp the numbers must have been a rotary dial system. the 5th pic is the frame vin and date code.
more pics on next post

NDERISE

first pic is an O stampd at the very last frame cross member (at the back end of the frame) just to the right of the center. the second pic is C2 and is located on the rear second cross member (spring cross member) it faces inwards and is near were the right upper diff. swing arm mounts. all the stamping face outwards of the frame, hope this help someone that is looking for frame and vin #s.

rob1960

I saw the pics you posted on Jan 28 of your frame stamping #s. I see your frame has "272" stamped on the L-R rail, that's the sequence # of the frame & components as they came down the chassis line. My own '68 442 has "39" on the frame. While cleaning & detailing the rear end I could still see the matching "39" hand written on top of the center section in red or orange & a white blob of paint on the top right behind the pinion flange.I wasn't going for a total factory correct marking resto but I thought it was cool that I could still make out the markings after all these years so I put them back on. I just thought it might be a detail you'd like to add since your're doing such an awesome resto on your W30 Sorry the pic with the frame #s doesn't blow up with good detail

NDERISE

thanks for sharing this info rob1960 looking for all the marking possible to put back on my car. do u have any pics. of the original marking u could maybe post. your diff. looks ausome
thanks ray

rob1960

Sorry Ray, I got a new computer last year & I lost allot of pics when things were transferred over,plus I went from windows xp to windows 8.1,that took some getting use to!!! It pissed me off,I lost a whole file on some of the tear down pics,but I did put that #39 back on just like I found it. I still have my old hard-drive & when I have some time I plan to hook it back up & see if I can recover some more of the pics & other things that didn't get transferred over. I had some nice clear pics of the restored exhaust manifolds,intake manifold,valve covers etc. I hope I can get them back!!!

NDERISE

finally got some good weather to finish my frame. after 2 weeks of body work and sanding and priming I got to finish laying some 2k satin black on it all came out to my liking the more it dries the more satin it gets

costpenn

Very very nice. Do you have anymore info on exactly where in North Texas car this came from? There was one here in Carrollton until the mid eighties that I have always wondered where it went - was owned by a guy named Bob Joel.

NDERISE

more pictures of the frame I took today after letting it dry in the sun most of the day

starfire65

Was talking to costpenn yesterday and he told me about your 70 w-30 you are doing and said it was from N.texas After looking at the pics. I recognize that it came from Carrollton by the seat covers that were redone. The original owners last name was Montz and was purchased new by them they lived at 2808 arcadia ln. He ordered it new and was an original W-27 rear car. I see it's not in it any more. In the 70's his wife drove it most of the time it was her daily driver. I drove it once in the 80's when they were looking at selling it. It had the W-27 in it at the time. Was very fast at the time. Good luck on your resto. Hope I did not disappoint you with the W-27 news.

NDERISE

started to load up the frame with suspension parts today. got the front a-arms installed without any serious scratches. hope the pics. will help some one on how to install the a-arms which is not the easiest thing to do. I made a spring compressor out of a 1/2" all threaded stainless rod and made an adapter out of a piece of 1/2" metal that I drilled two 5/16 holes in for the lower shock mounting holes and a 1/2" hole for the all threaded rod. mounted it to the lower a-arm shock hole and used the two lower 5/16 nut as a spacer to keep the adapter off of the a-arm as not to scratch it, see first pic. all went together well, applied Vaseline to the bushings to ease sliding the bushings into the frame slots.

NDERISE

installed the steering gear box , idle arm, and tie rod ends/adjuster sleeves. also installed a few torque marks. will not install much more as I was thinking I may reinstall the body back on the on the frame for body alignment and body work after I complete the bottom of the body, trunk, and floors. will see what my body man wants me to do.

NDERISE

put my body on my jig today, had some trouble to determine where the center of gravity would be. this is something I needed to know because I only had 2.5 inch's of adjustment up and down on my jig and this is the first time I put one on a body. had to get it close because I had to fabricate the brackets, and weld them together, came out o k but the front is at the down limit but I still have some adjustment left on the back. all I need is some good weather to start blasting and painting. the first two pics. can be used a reference to the center of gravity of the body. got a really good look a the bottom of the car and it looks very good for 45 years old. the last pic. is that mysterious tape they put on the body mounts

Octania

"the last pic. is that mysterious tape they put on the body mounts"

Evidently, yes. Remember that in reworking a car you are losing all the originality. So, you get one chance to document details like that as best you can- multiple photos, good resolution, save a piece of the tape, etc.

Nice project, great progress.

wagonmaster

great thread. Gives me some info for a model I am working on. I love the color of your car. Same as my 71 Sportwagon.

Tim

NDERISE

thanks Tim actually the car was repainted a little darker that the actual color which is galleon gold. I was looking for a 70 w-30 for about three years that was as this one is gold on gold a/c p/s p/b and found it on this forum after being a member for only 2 weeks. just go to show u all u have to do is look in the wright place. I see u must be new to our olds forum with only 7 post but a member since 2003 maybe u could post some picture of your car.

wagonmaster

I am more of a Buick fan than Olds. My best friend has been into Olds forever. Maybe it was the fact that his Dad was an Olds exec. you can guess the discussions we have had. He has a 70 Rallye 350 that is getting rebuilt. I am building a 1/25 scale model of it for him. making it as authentic as possible. I think if I wasn't into Buicks I would be into Olds. My wagon is first year of Cortez Gold ( Olds Saturn Gold)

Tim

70Post

Tim - We all veer off the righteous path from time to time. We understand as it's a confused world out there today. There is still time to redeem yourself.

Old Chinese Proverb:

Time is short for the lost soul...redemption, however, can bring back time and those souls entwined in its fate.

NDERISE

well all I can say tim is that u are not far off the path at lest u like G M and Buick is in the family, I would say Buick is like maybe a little brother

NDERISE

started repairing small rust spot on the left rear fender this weekend. the fender had a small spot of rust coming through the lower part of the rear well just a spot about 1" by 1 1/2". after cutting it out and cleaning out the dauber be hide it, it turned out that the back side metal was in farther than I expected, it was in need of metal replacement. so I had to fabricate a patch for the back inner fender well. hopefully I will have it done by this week end and will post pictures of the progress

NDERISE

finished up with the left rear quarter repair this week end

NDERISE

had to cut out some cancer on my left hand upper door were rust had taken under the weather striping which I did not know of until I pulled off the door weather striping got it all cut out and repaired but will have to do some more rust repairs on the front lower sections of the same door.

NDERISE

well friends I finally got some fair weather that will permit an old fellow as myself to get some work done on his car. I finish the body work and primed the right front floor replacement panels I installed many month's back. know looking for some more dry and low humidity weather to blast and paint the bottom of the car. also got to paint many of my interior parts of which I will be posting pics of this week.
thanks ray

Cincinnati Rick

Glad your posting again Ray. I've missed seeing your progress.

Rick

jensenracing77

X2 Ray! Will you be at the nationals in 2016? We were missing you this year.

NDERISE

very glad to hear from u guys, I do look at the forum just about every day, and I have been doing a few things to the car, I really got motivated by finding myself a true 1111979 dist. (not a restamp) and have my name on a 7040258 carb. original. also sent my radio to joes classic radio repair for repair and it carries a lifetime warranty. also painted many of my interior parts over the weekend and I am very pleased with the match on the seat skirts and seat backs my seats are now fully dress. sorry to hear that u are trying to sell your car eric but a mans got to do what a mans got to do. hope u get what u are asking it is worth that and more in my opinion. yes I am trying to make the nationals for 2016, thank God they are much closer to home. I found someone that wants to do the paint and body work and will try to get started on it as soon as I get good weather to blast and paint the bottom of the car. later
thanks again ray

Cincinnati Rick

I will be at the Nationals again next year and look forward to meeting you and seeing the car. This year's Nationals were fantastic. Eric and Joe's W30's were outstanding. Pretty cool seeing them built on this forum and then in person. There were some other really nice W30's as well. The other 400 and something cars were really cool too!
Congratulations on your dist. and carb finds. That is some serious motivation.

BTW, there was a car exactly like yours at the Nationals that was all original with 67k on the odometer. The only modification was a set of chrome valve covers. (He kept the originals) IMO it was one of the nicest untouched cars there. I have a picture of it as my screen saver on my computer at the office.

Rick

NDERISE

yes rick wish I could have made the nationals but for me the trip is from the bottom of the u s to the top, quite a distance. I saw pictures of all the cars and yes there were many w-30s there, hope mine will be one of them in 2016.

costpenn

Great to see you back at it Ray. That is going to be an amazing car. For those of you reading who don't know, by a bizarre set of circumstances I found out Ray's car was bought new by someone here in Carrollton, Texas. I used to see it all the time, and I went for a wild ride in it in 1985.

About the distance to the Nats this year - I was surprised to find out that the distance to Kingsport from Dallas is only about 50 miles less than going to Milwaukee!

NDERISE

painted most of my interior parts last week here are a few pics of the seat back and seat skirt. did all the prep. work in the following steps. wash all the parts twice with super clean degreaser, scuffed with scotch bright (maroon) pad, wiped them down good with wax and grease remover, then sprayed two coats of dupli-color adhesion promoter followed by 4 coats of interior semi gloss lacquer. the seat skirts were original ones I got from Patton and the seat backs were from legendary interiors.

NDERISE

joe are u talking about Milwaukee Wisconsin that's a lot more than 50 mile deferens.

easyd

Looking good Ray! Just a few more weeks before my restoration is complete! Keep up the good work. I will call you the next day or so.

NDERISE

good to hear from u doug wish u had a build thread on your car I am shore it would be a good one. looking forward to hearing from you
thanks ray

costpenn

Ray, I wish it wasn't - according to Yahoo maps it is 954 miles to Kingsport for me, and 1028 to Milwaukee!! I didn't believe it myself at first.

NDERISE

just did map quest Joe for me it is 1179 miles to Milwaukee and 832 to Kingsport a diff. of 247 miles wow just seems to me that Milwaukee would be much more farther.