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If you need to program the key fob of your classic Oldsmobile with OBD 2, VATS & Series 2 NA 3.8l. Easy peasy ham and cheesy!
1) Jumper ports 8 and 4 of your ALDL (keep it installed for the entire procedure)
2) Insert the key
3) Move the ignition to the RUN position
4) The doors will lock indicating the car is in programming mode
5) Depress the lock & unlock buttons on your key fob for approximately 15 seconds
6) The doors will lock indicating the key fob is programmed
I've gotten alot done on my 96 recently. I actually just posted my first video featuring a drive around town in one of my money pi... I mean projects.
Oldsguy mentioned to me that the Sea Foam engine cleaner works well. He used it on his 2017 F250 with a 6.2l. I used it on my 96 and it seemed to work well and stabilized the idle. Of course, I could have gone all the way and disassembled the engine to de-sludge the throttle body and IAC, but you can't beat a $15 engine treatment.
I didn't find a link to the Sea Foam at O'Reilly's with a quick search. I never shop at Auto Zone, the folks locally are jokers. Like I mentioned in my video, O'Reilly's is my favorite place in town.
I didn't find a link to the Sea Foam at O'Reilly's with a quick search. I never shop at Auto Zone, the folks locally are jokers. Like I mentioned in my video, O'Reilly's is my favorite place in town.
So, it turns out the thermostat was bad that I had before rebuilding the heads on my 455. That's why the parts store cheapie radiator I had in the car exploded.
I ended up replacing it with a Stant 45358 thermostat. This was actually the 2nd thermostat I've had fail on me. The first one was a Motorcraft one I had in my Bullnose truck.
Here's a pic of the engine running after 5 minutes with the bad thermostat. Mmm steam! Luckily I didn't destroy another radiator. 🤯
Thankfully the engine is in good health. I did a compression test and started it with the good thermostat and a new parts store cheapie radiator. Here are the dry compression numbers:
Here are a few pics I took replacing the spark plugs & wires on my 96 98. I didn't want to replace the spark plug wires at the time, but the boot seperated from the wire when I removed it. At least I had a lifetime warranty from the parts store. The parts store cheapies lasted 50k miles.
I've read 3.8l forums that say you can get to the rear spark plugs from below. I did 1 spark plug from below, but truthfully it's easier to get at them from above. Even if you don't remove the upper intake manifold. Of course, it was tight but I could easily reach since I'm 7ft. tall.
My 71 was surely jealous this afternoon because instead of setting the timing and carburetor on the 455, I started a cylinder leak down test on the spare 7.3l IDI I've had in the garage for years.
Last edited by Olds64; July 14th, 2023 at 07:55 AM.
Workin' on the 96 again. This weekend I'll have no excuse but to work on the 71.
I fixed some door panels. Specifically the passenger's side front door switch panel that I broke last year while filming my 2nd YouTube video. I also repaired the rear passenger's power window. The mechanism was jammed due to a stripped mounting stud. Here's a pic from when I bench tested the power window motor.
I replaced the thermostat housing gasket on the 455 in my 71. I got ahead of myself when I reassembled it. I pinched the ground wire to the NO thermostatic switch for my electric fan under the thermostat housing. Of course it caused a leak.
We'll see what I get done this weekend. I should fabricate a new fuel line to the carburetor and tune the engine.
Well, I fabricated a new fuel line but it never worked. I blame the parts store cheapie flaring kit I tried to use. Looks like I'd have to buy a better flaring tool if I want to make a steel fuel line from my fuel pump to the carburetor on my 71.
I'm not sure what it is, but I can't get the 71 to idle for more than 5 or 10 minutes. It starts and idles effortlessly.
I started it and tried to tune it after fixing the fuel leak. The first time I was trying to belch the air out of the radiator. I think the thermostat never opened so the coolant just started to overflow when it boiled. When I shut off the engine it made a huge mess.
After cleaning up the mess my 71 decided it liked sitting in the garage so much that it decided to make another mess. I started the engine with the radiator full and the cap secured. After idling for about 5 minutes the radiator cap blew off of the radiator.
I've since done another compression test. Is that 4 or 5 times now? The compression is still good.
1,3,5,7: 152 psi
2,4,6,8: 155 psi
I also removed and tested the thermostat. I poured boiling water on it and it never opened!That's 3 bad thermostats in a row?😡
I haven't put the spark plugs back in after the compression test. I guess my next step is to remove the alternator and PS belts to test the water pump. Even if I have to replace the water pump I don't think I'm going to run a thermostat in it. At least for awhile, if not forever more.
There's an active thread now on using Thermocure to eliminate the rust and corrosion in the water jacket of your engine. Might be a good idea. Especially if I end up replacing the water pump.
I decided to replace the water pump on the engine in the 71 even though the bearing wasn't grumbling. Here's a pic of the water pump I removed from the 71 (back) and the water pump from my spare 455 (front).
The water pump from my spare 455 was painted Chrysler blue with POR-15. I scuffed the surface and covered it with the same rattle can Chrysler blue I painted the valve covers and oil fill tube with.
Here's a pic of the water pump from the 71 and a new spare I got at the auto parts store. They had to order it from the manufacturer, but it's the same water pump. I actually bought the water pump from the 71 in 2008. I still had a legible receipt so they let me do a warranty exchange.
Last edited by Olds64; August 22nd, 2023 at 06:09 AM.
Per Permatex's directions, I put sealer on both sides of the water pump and thermostat housing gaskets. I installed the thermostat housing without a thermostat. I suppose they were a good idea from the factory, but at least 3 bad thermostats in a row have sort of turned me off from them for awhile. I need to get some Thermocure to run through the water jacket, but the engine is otherwise ready to start.
I'm about tired of trying to get the 71 running again. I keep thinking I need to sell or trade in my 86 Ford truck so I can get another Oldsmobile.
Hi , the Thermocure worked great in my 98 and the car runs ok now . But it,s a little colder here now
and i have not driving the car idling in trafficstops yet. 90-ties Oldsmobiles is not often to se here , i
don´t think i have seen anybody in real life.
The radiator in my 71 is a brand new parts store cheapie, but I figure the Thermocure couldn't hurt. The engine had been sitting on an engine stand for 8+ years less than 500 miles ago.
I finally drove my 71! It was only a drive of 5-8 miles, but I didn't have to tow it. No tricks or shenanigans.
Here's the required pic:
If you watch any of my videos it really should be the latest one. Just to make sure I'm not lying to you.
The transaxle on my 96 is TOAST, so apparently all of my energy from here on out will go to my 71 or my Bullnose truck. I have a truck video upcoming, but we'll see what I do next.
Watched the video this morning, very gratifying to see that the car is running and driving well and to hear it again. Look forward to a ride in it next visit up there. Also, good to read that you are over the '96 at least for now, good for you.
April 7th, 2023, 10:27 AM
