I had a MAW last night...

Wanted to replace my rear shocks because i noticed that the driver side was seeping a bit of fluid.

I also decided that since i was under there, i would replace my fuel sending unit.

Have you guys dropped your gas tanks yet, because HOLY COW those strap bolts are fused in place....

 

Only had the tank out once back in 85. The filler neck was leaking. You probably need an extension to reach up and tet the one at the front of the car. Make sure you empty your tank first and have it well supported - block it with wood right to the tank so it doesn't put extra stress on the bolts when you're removing them. Soak those bolts with penetrating oil. This is one area where you obviously don't want to use flame to loosen them. Tap the bolt after using fluid to help it get into the threads as much as you can.

Don't forget Tony, if you are doing your sending unit, this is the perfect time to get under the car and replace the rubber fuel lines at the rear. ILT has a kit for them

BTW I'd also replace all the bolts and spring clips on the support straps. There's great pics in the AM that shows everything. Heres a link to WAC that has the info showing all the stuff you'll need: http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe..._8__Part-1.pdf Starts on page 102

 

I'm definitely going to be replacing every rubber line I can get at!

I'm thinking it's probably all 3/8'' ?? Hopefully because I have a couple extra feet lying around somewhere in my box of extra parts. I already have the single outlet fuel sending unit from rockauto. Bought it at the same time as the transmission filter and gasket set ( which I MAW install someday)

Eric gave me the idea of using a jack to let her down easy. I'll probably support it with a wood jig while I loosen the bolts up.

I have my hopes up that I'll find the world's first Lansing build sheet under the tank

 

The info about the fuel hose is in Section 8, Page 104 of the AM. You will need 3/8 and 5/16. DONT FORGET to do the fuel line that runs from the fuel pump on the engine to the frame rail connection. Best time will be when you have the front suspension off and have tons of room to work with. You will get wet from the gas so have a catch pail for it when it's draining, or have a good plug ready to use.

 

Tony, looks like your fun just keeps a going! You will need 3/8 and 5/16" hose for the rear lines. The ones up front are 3/8. Here is Lady's rear-end thread - it might help you...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ancements.html
You will need to start a thread on this gas tank pull, as in place of your hopefull build sheet, there will be hundreds of little MAWs up there that will scatter when the tank comes down.
Kinds like popping open a spider's egg sac and seeing all the tiny spiders scatter!

Can I interest you in an anti-MAW helmet?

 

Put me down for a couple! Do they work better in series or parallel??

Oh man, I havnt even gotten the gas tank out and the MAW's started piling up... Decided I MAW take out the old shocks since I'm going to replace them anyway. I kind of want to wirebrush the mounting points... But I could get at them so much better if I took the body off the frame

I already took some pictures, they shall be uploaded to my build thread shortly.. Holy cow is there rust up there.

 

They work best in parallel (stacked).
I have you down for an order of six - you will need them all.
You want the Super Duct Tape option also?

 

Can i get the MAW W-30 edition? I'd be willing to pay the couple extra bucks for an emblem tagged on the side

 

Dangerous words to live by.....
I'll be doing my rear suspension this year too. I noticed that when the car was up in the air this summer that I don't have spring isolators on the rear coils. Ride height is ok though.

 

Al,

I'll let you know how my parts match up when i install them. i ordered everything AC/DELCO to get it as authentic as i could afford.

You dont have insulators? were your springs replaced before you bought the car in the 80's? I know i've seen that insulators were standard as per the Assy' manual.

 

Actually, my Dad bought the car in 74 at Edmonton motors with 40344 actual miles on it. I guess you could say I 'bought' the car in the 80's. For $1.00 off my bro. The springs were replaced back in 85 at Scona Spring Works. Someone there must have overlooked that. Before the replacement, the car sat so low at the rear it was like watching a dog drag his butt across a carpet. After new springs it felt like you were sitting 'downhill' till you got used to it.

 

Just to bring this thread up to date, the heater box was pulled in early February so i could replace the heater core with it's crushed hose nipples.
While it is out, it was a good time to disassemble the box, clean it up, and do any minor resto up under the dash while there is room to work.
Here are the details on the heater box:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post362172

I would love to have stripped out those decrepid cowl insulator pads that turn to dust by simply looking at them. However, that will be way too messy, so they will stay in. I did use some spray adhesive to resecure the right-hand side pad.

The firewall around the core pipes was a little rusty, so I hit it with a wirebrush on the dremel and POR15ed it.
Firewall pad was in okay shape and was cleaned up a bit.

 

You'll be sorry you didn't do it now.....order in the stuff and replace it. This is not the R.Y. I know.. Besides, you're not driving her right now anyway.

But what is that I see on the right side kickpanel area???? An unrestored dashpot??? You know you wanna fix that bud> Plus you can run all new rubber lines to make sure all the vacuum is tight. You must be wearing your MAW helmet on this build....

 

I used a shop vac for the cowl pad, or forward dash, whatever you call it. Sucked it right off, rubbed it with the hose end of the vac, went pretty easy.

.

 

I maybe shoulda did all this when i had the interior out, but I kept my promise that the dash would stay in...
In all, the pads are up there in one piece, so I think they will stay. Not wanting to make a mess of everything right now.

The vacuum lines are still soft and pliable - quite surprising, so they will stay, too.
Air door will get cleaned up soon. It will not come out now the evap box is in, so it stays in.

I thought about replacing the radio, but I want to wait until the Retrosound Model Two comes out later this year.

Yes, the MAW helmet is working; just gets in the way...

 

I heard that if you take it off and put it on the floor pointy end down, it will collect 'evil and dark thoughts' just as effectively as if they would slide off from above??? Oh, you have to prop it up so the thoughts won't 'spill' out Just remember to avert you eyes from the helmet and you'll be fine...

 

Maybe I missed it, but how did you refurb/descale the top of the fenderwells?

You are a rock star!

C.J.

 

Thanks Red...
The tops of my wells were not too bad from the start.
After cleaning the whole things with oven cleaner, not much was left on them.
What scale and overspray did remain was scuffed off with fine scotchbrite (the non-scratch ones made for pots and pans). Fine steel wool may work, too. Afterwards, i used plastic polish on the topsides and sprayed the wheel sides with undercoat.


The helmet need to shield your brain from the evil thoughts. The only way it would work set away from your head is if you lost your mind...

 

ummmm, ahhhhh, geeeee, weeeeellllll, how do I say this?????

 

Any idea why they used undercoating on plastic fender wells? Certainly not needed to inhibit corrosion. Maybe sound dampening or...?

C.J.

 

Texasred,
The inner liners on these cars did not come with undercoating on them. If you have that on your car, it was likely sprayed on there by another previous owner. My inner liners are original, and like you guessed, they don't have any undercoating.

You wouldn't need to coat them for sound deadening in these cars. All the sound absorbing is done by jute matts on the firewall, and sound deadener laid under the carpets

 

Hey Rob - you are our resident expert on Dynamat; can you put Dynamat up under the cowl and then apply the regular cowl insulation. Will the cowl insulation stick to it?
I am thinking of putting Dynamat from the cowl all the way down the firewall, then installing the regular cowl pad and firewall pad on top of it.

 

My guess it that the salesman sold the "undercoating" package to the new buyer and was applied at the dealer. You know, one of those fast high-profit deals, like the paint sealer, fabric stain blocker, and stuff. Who cares if it really does what the salesman says it will do!
This nasty stuff was on my car for a long time. Most had come off. The wheel wells were discolored so I figured that reapplying undercoat was a good way to cover it all up again.

Not an expert by any means, but I think this will work. Use lots of 3M 8090 trim adhesive and follow its directions well. Just like sticking the pads to the metal itself.

 

Cheers Rob

 

I need a drink, first!

 

ohhhhhh , great work there master Rob ! I see a blower motor repair/replacement in my future , and I will refer to this thread for guidance .

 

Lots of resto can and should be done when getting up in there!

 

Yes Bryon! FEEEELL the POOWER of the Force. Millions of Mitichlorians within the essence of your CS are screaming in agony, waiting for salvation in the form of: A Front End Rebuild Once you start down the path to the dark side, there is NO GOING BACK. I know, I have become a slave to the evil insidious Dark Lord myself. No amount of MAW controls will be able to save you from his evil and constant desires. Watch your threads carefully. Eventually you will see things like this popping up:

DO THE BUSHINGS!
DO THE BUSHINGS!
DO THE BUSHINGS!


From there my friend, fate will not be able to save you. Throw down your light saber in defeat and succumb to the Sith Lord. Gotta say though - the dark side does have a great support network and is there when you need it.

 

Rob,

Thanks for the write up on the heater core I just finished mines and it wasnt all that bad , Thanks to your detailed write up. Now on to the next project, Total front end rebuild. I just received my entire front end order from Rockauto. New shocks, ball joints, springs , tire rods, centerlink etc... I will be tackling that before this Texas heat start cooking my garage...

 

I sure hope I don't have to do the bushings , I got six out of the eight control arm bushings replaced already .... The problem is they will be rusty by now so I may have to .

 

Just two more to go - you can do it!
You do not want the rust to get any worse, or break a rusty bolt or such.........

 

I am dissapointed Rob. Whats with the surface rust on that lower dash brace.

 

Hey Rob, can you point me to Water pump \timing cover section of this thread?
What water pump did you end up going with?
Im there, and been combing the threads...but seems so much confusion on the pumps. I know I need a 6 inch long shaft pump for my 72' 455. Read all about the
cast iron, open vs closed impellars, GMB and all the rebranded stuff, was hoping to
see your input here on your thread. Thx.

 

I didn't read the entire thread here but I dropped my tank to replace some fuel lines from the tank itself and i used an air wrench, worked quite nicely.

 

Water pump was replaced earlier before I was even at Classic Olds.
My flickr pics tell some on the job.
I used a new open impeller unit from Rockauto. Do not use a reman, as it will leak just past the warranty.

Lengths are a big question - here are some threads to help with that:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...p-lengths.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...mp-issues.html

Here is some topics on closed vs open...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html

Hope this helps!

 

Thx Rob. Yes, Ive seen those threads, and many more on this topic. Just wanted to see if you had the w\p documented somewhere in your thread as you really go the extra mile in documentation.

No real step by step w/p replacement on CO it seems, though for many its pretty straight forward.
Maybe I will step up here and document w/p replacement from a 101 pov for the newbie doing 455 w/p.

 

I did the water pump before I started the in-depth documentaries... At that point I was in git-er-dun mode! This forum (and digital cameras) changed the way I do repairs and projects....

 

Well, I was supposed to have finished the underhood resto this past spring, but it did not happen due to home repairs and improvements.
Fall is here and so is the need for a working heater.
I had rebuilt the heater box but never hooked it back up.
So this required the following parts to be installed, along with some hose:


I siphoned out one gallon of coolant from the radiator. The smaller hose was crammed on to the water pump as a temporary bypass, so i just cut off the end from the pump and attached it to the heater core, through the POA bracket clamp. I smeared some coolant on the heater core nipples to help the hoses slide on.
The top AC compressor bracket was installed loosely.
The larger hose, though new, was cleaned up to remove dirt, white residue and shipping tape remains. It was installed per the assembly manual through the AC bracket clamp and to the water pump. Its length was around 40" or so.
The hose bracket bolt went through the AC bracket and all bolts tightened to spec.
All hose clamps were positioned and tightened with a nut driver. I used worm drive clamps as i never cared for the tower style. I may try them again later for originality sake...
So a few more parts towards completion!


So I dumped the gallon of coolant back into the radiator and started her up, turning on the heater to the hot position to open the coolant valve.
I kept adding coolant and water, alternating between them. When she was pretty warm, I blipped the throttle a few times, which burped the system, allowing more coolant to be added. A few more repetitions of this and I was done. No leaks so far!!

So we are now officially ready for our annual Christmas light cruise coming up next month!

 

One step closer Rob, good job

 

Always a good feeling! Looks great!