Into the unknown - Underhood restoration!
March 31st, 2014, 06:36 PM
#601
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Yep I had that issue too.
I searched all over and still could not find it. Also interesting that the pictures I took are lost on my computer! Did I dream this thread?
I will search the master photo archive on a separate drive. I think i did that late 2012 as the POA I tested was for a Pinto (same exact one as the Cutlass!)
Great! Start a thread so I can be a spectator.
Do you need an anti-MAW helmet to go with that?
I searched all over and still could not find it. Also interesting that the pictures I took are lost on my computer! Did I dream this thread?
I will search the master photo archive on a separate drive. I think i did that late 2012 as the POA I tested was for a Pinto (same exact one as the Cutlass!)
Great! Start a thread so I can be a spectator.
Do you need an anti-MAW helmet to go with that?
April 1st, 2014, 05:04 AM
#602
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
If you are converting to 134a, I highly recommend replacing the condenser with a parallel flow condenser from Classic Auto Air. The weak point in 134a in an original system is the condenser. The original condenser can't cool the refrigerant enough, and the system won't cool as well, especially when at a light. The parallel flow is designed to run with 134a. They can also rebuild and recalibrate the POA for 134a. An rebuilt POA works much better than the POA "updates" they sell. My Cutlass puts out 30 degree air. I replaced all the O-rings, flushed everything, replaced the expansion valve, rebuilt and recalibrated the POA and put on the parallel flow condenser. I am still running the compressor that was on the car when I bought it in 2006. Incidentally, the parallel flow condenser is exactly the same size and mounts identically as the original, using the same hardware.
Remember too that 134 operates at a higher psi, and even if it doesn't leak now, it could once you jack the pressure. (hose ends too)
One thing on the compressors, it should say on the sticker or somewhere on the box what type of oil it shipped with, and the type of seals. Something like 'R12 Only' or 'R134 Compatible' or something like that. R12 oil doesn't mix with R134a oil, unless it's the specific dual-compatible oil (and I forget which that is at the moment). If it was purchased beyond a certain date, then chances are it's compatible with both.
.
April 1st, 2014, 03:02 PM
#603
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
Yep I had that issue too.
I searched all over and still could not find it. Also interesting that the pictures I took are lost on my computer! Did I dream this thread?
I will search the master photo archive on a separate drive. I think i did that late 2012 as the POA I tested was for a Pinto (same exact one as the Cutlass!)
Great! Start a thread so I can be a spectator.
Do you need an anti-MAW helmet to go with that?
I searched all over and still could not find it. Also interesting that the pictures I took are lost on my computer! Did I dream this thread?
I will search the master photo archive on a separate drive. I think i did that late 2012 as the POA I tested was for a Pinto (same exact one as the Cutlass!)
Great! Start a thread so I can be a spectator.
Do you need an anti-MAW helmet to go with that?
April 1st, 2014, 06:47 PM
#605
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I am going with my original condenser to use with R134, just to see how it does. I know there will be some performance lack but I have heard others say it was acceptable. R134 is cheap and I plan to charge myself, so not much loss if it fails.
I like having as many original parts on the car as possible as long as they work.
Sounds like you got my competitor's cheap version, or you put it on upside down...
I like having as many original parts on the car as possible as long as they work.
Sounds like you got my competitor's cheap version, or you put it on upside down...
April 2nd, 2014, 02:44 PM
#607
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
I am going with my original condenser to use with R134, just to see how it does. I know there will be some performance lack but I have heard others say it was acceptable. R134 is cheap and I plan to charge myself, so not much loss if it fails.
I like having as many original parts on the car as possible as long as they work.
Sounds like you got my competitor's cheap version, or you put it on upside down...
I like having as many original parts on the car as possible as long as they work.
Sounds like you got my competitor's cheap version, or you put it on upside down...
Any luck finding your POA calibration thread? I still can't find it. The abbreviated version was helpful though.
April 2nd, 2014, 06:54 PM
#609
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I will try to remember to make a new one this weekend. I know I have the pics archived. PM me if I do not do so by saturday.
We can coach you if needed - it is what we are here for. We all have different skill levels. It is a hobby for most of us, not a career.
April 2nd, 2014, 07:51 PM
#610
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
I've come across a few posts on other sites on the subject, and if I can find one that I think is clear enough, I'll post a link to it here, probably tomorrow.
- Eric
April 3rd, 2014, 03:14 PM
#611
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
No, I was either on something when I said i made it or it is loster than lost...
I will try to remember to make a new one this weekend. I know I have the pics archived. PM me if I do not do so by saturday.
Don't worry about that - it was my first time also and was surprised how good I did. Snafus did come up but I got through them.
We can coach you if needed - it is what we are here for. We all have different skill levels. It is a hobby for most of us, not a career.
I will try to remember to make a new one this weekend. I know I have the pics archived. PM me if I do not do so by saturday.
Don't worry about that - it was my first time also and was surprised how good I did. Snafus did come up but I got through them.
We can coach you if needed - it is what we are here for. We all have different skill levels. It is a hobby for most of us, not a career.
May 9th, 2014, 03:42 PM
#612
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
Hey Rob, is this thing supposed to be mounted in it's plate? Mine wants to fall into the evap box (hence the wire) so I'm not sure how I'm supposed to get the plug on it once the box is together and mounted.
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Last edited by Macadoo; May 9th, 2014 at 03:44 PM.
May 10th, 2014, 08:05 AM
#613
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Mac that is the ambient temperature sensor. It disables the compressor when air temps inside the AC box is below freezing. If it wants to fall into the plenum, then take the two screws out, and extract the whole piece and figure out why it will not stay together. It should all be one piece. Look for clips that used to clamp it to the brown plate. It might have been glued even. If AC is needed now, you can remove the plate, push the plug onto it, and then screw it back to the plenum. However, if someone yanks the plug off of it later, guess where it falls....
These are easily found used.
These are easily found used.
May 10th, 2014, 09:41 AM
#614
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
Thanks for the reply Rob. That's exactly what I did. I looked at it with a keener eye and discovered it used to be glued. I just used a little epoxy and it's good to go now. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why that needed to be unmounted to its plate.
I've just finished up my AC box and am getting ready to install. I used your socket trick for winding the extra (extremely extra) copper tubing. The non-sensor-bulb end of the tubing seems to be a little awkward though. How it comes out of the right of the expansion valve but needs to go to the left. Oh well. Thanks for the help...and the write up!
I've just finished up my AC box and am getting ready to install. I used your socket trick for winding the extra (extremely extra) copper tubing. The non-sensor-bulb end of the tubing seems to be a little awkward though. How it comes out of the right of the expansion valve but needs to go to the left. Oh well. Thanks for the help...and the write up!
May 10th, 2014, 03:02 PM
#616
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
OPGI I believe - just a 2" long thin rubber tube (like bike tube thickness) with the end mashed closed to keep crap from entering and air from escaping. Contrary to their description the clam did come with it.
It's dusty up top and plastered with bugs below. 
However, a sprit bottle of water and a bunch of white rads or old socks get the top cleaned up well for shows. The bugs show that she is driven like she likes.
The crappy parts-place fan clutch leaked last year so i replaced it with a NOS AC Delco one. I think that was all that went 'wrong'.
I hear a very faint click at the right front wheel (like when driving close to a fence) but I think it was because I did not clinch the brake pads tight enough. I checked it all last year and the outboard one is loose. I don't worry about it though. I will reclinch it when i rotate the tires.
However, a sprit bottle of water and a bunch of white rads or old socks get the top cleaned up well for shows. The bugs show that she is driven like she likes.
The crappy parts-place fan clutch leaked last year so i replaced it with a NOS AC Delco one. I think that was all that went 'wrong'.
I hear a very faint click at the right front wheel (like when driving close to a fence) but I think it was because I did not clinch the brake pads tight enough. I checked it all last year and the outboard one is loose. I don't worry about it though. I will reclinch it when i rotate the tires.
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