Joe - if you are referring to the body mounts behind the door, mine was missing the same bolts. I also had some other strange things on mine. The core support only had 3 attaching points for the grill, the 4th was never drilled out. It was the same way for where the inner fender well attached. One of the fasteners wasn't drilled out on the core support. My car was built the 5th week of January, so I think they were in a rush to get it out the door and missed a lot of small things

 

Happy New Year John,

My car is also a late January build - VIN sequence 258494. Is the grille to core support hole your car is missing the the lower one on the RH side - right next to the headlamp mounting plate? All mine were there, but that bolt is so close to that headlamp plate I could not get a socket on it, and had to back it off with a open ended wrench - it took forever. Wonder if they were having a problem with that at the factory - especially since our cars are so close together.

I keep trying to search and find the thread I once saw about the whole 6 or 8 body bolt thing. I remember some people saying all the Lansing built W cars were supposed to have the door bolts installed, but the PIM, and my car, show differently.

 

Joe - that is the same one that was never tapped on my car... Mine was built in NJ

 

More info only (0 work hours)

Today went out to Vastine's to check on status of the car, and deliver all the parts I want installed on the car before it coming home - things like 442 & W30 emblems, fender peak and fender leading edge trim, rear hood trim, the final assembly bolts to be used in place of the junk ones being used in the mock up process, etc.. Need to get some good original W30 side stripe and 442 deck lid photos to go along with the PIM drawings and specs. Interestingly, the only width or dimension I can't get from the PIM drawing is the wide W side stripe where it is not going over the wheel wells.

Also took over the lower steering column plate that covers the cutout in the dash since it has perfect undisturbed black paint color and texture. Bryan says he should have no trouble matching this, but I'll check a test sample he's going to prepare.

Took a couple of photos of the original VIN sticker to send to the guy TK-65 turned me onto.

Brian had pulled out those body plugs Ray was just working on. Mine are toast, but the rubber gasket things are still nice.

Added a few more detail items to the front knuckle area.

Sending off my fender headlamp coves for paint and RH side seat headrest to repair a seam separation that was previosly poorly repaired.

Got what I thought was going to be my last ILT order in, but there will always be more needed - it never ends.

 

Send me your email address, I have something that may help.

 

Just awesome, I am amazed, and awed, wow

 

joe these body plugs u have a pic of looks like the floor plugs that go under the rear seat, what I posted pics. of was the trunk well plugs that go wright behind the rear wheel trunk area, facing the frame

 

Ray, these did in fact come from the inner quarters behind the rear wheels. I test fit one one in the hole.

 

Joe, your drain plug is the same style that I found in my trunk floor drop-off panels, and ILT is selling them now with the gaskets.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-70-71-...item255955dcb0

 

Mr. Vapor do you know if the ILT repos are plastic or metal? I can't tell from the ad.

And, just when are you coming down to the DFW area?

Joe

 

I have a set and are metal but not even close to the same as my originals.

 

Yes, they are metal as Eric stated.

I'll come to your area when the Nationals come back to Dallas.

 

Before you paint the car, drill out the emblem holes and use barrel nuts.


Then you can pop off the emblems when you wax the car.

 

More parts procuring, no worky-worky in the garage (0 hours)

Today ordered my exhaust system from Gardner, a battery, 5 cans of the Supercars Unlimited Blue engine paint, and a few other goodies. The Gardner system winds up costing about 400.00 more (delivered) than the ILT kit, but from everything posted on CO it should be worth it. Also, my camshaft supplier tells me my cam is finally on the way - will spin it up on our Cam Doc to make sure they got it right.

Also today went ahead and bit the bullet and bought an enclosed trailer. 24 foot ATC with all the bells and whistles to use this summer going to Wisconsin. Probably a lit more than I really need, but got a smokîng deal on it through a friend of a friend.

Also , yesterday I tried to post on a separate thread dome detail pics of my original carpeting I going to try to reuse. Can't get the hang of how to embed the pic in the post using the "mountain" button, so below - for any other detail nut, here they are:

Pic 1 is of the outboard LH front bucket mounting cut in the carpet. It is a cut, and not a hole with the seat track siting on top of the carpeting.

Pic 2 is the same track, but the rear one. Again, it is a cut, but a different shape.

Pic 3 is a typical seat belt mounting hole. It is bigger than I expected almost like it was die cut

Pic 4 is a short relief cut to help the carpet lay flat. It is located on the carpet leading edge - roughly oriented where the clutch pedal would be.

Pic 5 is the detail around the dimmer switch showing the cut out for the e-brake cable.

There is a lot more to the OE carpet in terms of fitting details that helps explain why it is so hard to make the aftermarket carpet lay just right. Will add a couple more pics on the next post detailling the console area and the rear seat lower hook cutout.

 

Console cut outs and read seat lower hook cut.

 

You'll enjoy installing the exhaust. Ive used them about 8x. (I have that many pieces of glassware from them that they give you). You can install it on the frame and be assured that the body and bumper will fit fine. My only complaint is their mufflers (even if you go with the higher sound ones) . Ilt's have a healthier sound.

 

Ok, all this talk about the plugs in the lower rear quarters got me to peek under mine. Does anyone have plugs that do NOT look like the one costpenn has posted a photo of, or the ones that ILT sells?


Mine have been in place since I owned the car and they are of a completely different design as they are flat on the outside. I highly doubt they were ever changed as the car has all original sheet metal and I've had it for what seems like forever.


Jim

 

Jim, What is your production date? The ones that ILT sells look like mine, and attached is a pic of what Ray's plug and gasket looks like.

 

Jim look at post 79 of NDERISE 70 W-30 RESTORATION I have pics. of mine which which are diff. from costpenns. located at this thread https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html

 

I don't have the car here and keep getting the build date of this and my W31 mixed up but both are later cars, 3rd week of March if my memory is correct.

 

Yup, that's exactly what mine look like!

I thought I had seen a photo of yours somewhere Ray but I must have missed it. Thanks for the link. I wasn't sure what color they were originally. My car was undercoated so everything is sticky black! LOL

FYI, the Chevelle vendors sell the same ones that ILT does.

Jim

 

I have looked into this for the past 4 days. I already found that 1970 is totally inconsistent. My November car has the flat style and my early June car car has the flat style. I have also found two January cars with the inline tube style. Another local guy has a 70 with the flat style but i don't know his date yet.

 

one thing for shore is I would never tell anyone that something is not correct on here car, because G M used a lot of different venders to supply them with parts so u don't know from one week to the next if the part that fits and works as well as the part they used last week will be from a different vender.

 

Not to mention plant to plant on non w cars.

 

hay hairy olds your (442 WERE THE ACTION IS) sticker is down on the left side about 1/2 a bubble


p. s. just kidding

 

Yea just a little so the water runs off.

 

Among other things....

 

Well I have to say , eric, joe, ray and hairy olds, to paraphrase a commercial in the olds world you guys are bringing sexy back, good lord so much cool stuff happening, awe inspiring... thank you all...

 

Finally, a little work (3/4 hour)

Got my excellent used rear quarter OE drain plugs in from CO member AZCHEV. One of them still had a gasket on it, so I thought I'd try to see if I can save the originals. Spent about half an hour gently rubbing against the rubber (while I braced it well), and then used a toothbrush with vinyl cleaner to remove the gunk. Pics show one before and after cleaning, and the other after both are done. They don't quite measure up to my 95% of NOS appearance standard for reusing original "born on the car" parts, but it was kind of fun to save them, they really don't get seen, and the days of this car being in the rain are long behind it.

Also, today I finally got in my 406768 factory grind camshaft I had made by my company's cam supplier. It measured out correctly at lift (.472) and duration at .050,(220 on intake and 221-222 on exhaust) but was about 10-15 degrees short on the mythical advertised (.006 lift) durations. Anyway, it is a hell of a lot closer than any other cam being offered by anybody. This will be the only part on the car that is incorrect, but I just don't think I can handle the 400165 (lack of) cam lope at idle. The 406768 is the 70 442 non W-30 M/T cam, and it splits the difference in overlap between the 400165 and the 402194. I've got the original cam safely tucked away in case anyone ever wants to reinstall it - it is still useable, but the #1 exhaust lobe is down about .008 from factory spec. (measured .464 valve lift)

Lastly, the painter sent me a undercar pic. It was shot in what he calls Matte Black, and looks very, very close in sheen to what the black color was on the trunk floor underside protected by the trunk mat.

Weather looks to be improving, so this weekend I will get some things done!

 

Undercar pic

 

So who says the factory's mythical advertised duration was measured at .006" lift? I know that's a common number thrown around for advertised duration today, but was that what they used back in 1970? What if they considered the seat events to be at .002" lift? Would that gain you back your 10 - 15 degrees?

 

Possibly some, but not likely the whole difference. Some other people have reached out to me to say the OE cams they have analyzed are also a little aggressive in their advertised duration numbers. For example a NOS W-30 M/T cam with 328 degrees advertised duration checked out at only about 314 on a Cam Doc.

 

Got some work in on a beautiful day in Texas (3 hours)

Began today's session outside by giving the OE carpeting I'm going to reuse a second level of cleaning. My appreciation for the original material and the quality of the installation contiues to grow.. Note in the pics that all the cut outs in the material seem to be die stamped, but the console cut outs are kind of rough like they were done by hand (on the assembly line?) I also noticed that the jute backing also has relief slits in it to conform to the firewall rise and trans tunnel. Cleaned and detailled the rubber mat below the pedals, the dimmer switch grommet, and the vinyl wrapped rear edge with the stitching. Gently tried to clean the Fraser Products tag - it is date stamped with Dec 1 for sure, but it might be either Dec 11 or 14. Found another sticker that goes under the rear carpet section, but the numbers are indecipherable. Lastly trimmed with a pair of sharp scissors the edges where the some fuzzies or loose threads are poking out. Will need another round of deep brushing, along with a gentle shampooing before the dyeing.

Next replaced the tie rod sleeve bolts and nuts. I was never very happy how these came out of my resto process, and I had installed them facing the wrong way so I got the ILT kit (the OE bolts are about an 1/4 longer than those in the kit.)

Moved onto give my 15" roller wheels and tires a quick cleaning before installing on the assembled undercarriage. I used a wire wheel on a drill to get all the rust and nastiness off where the rim touches the drums and rotors. Gave the surfaces a quick blast of clear, and mounted them up. Took it off the jackstands, and rolled it outside for the first time - a milestone for this project.

Got a chance to sweep out my garage for the first time in months - had a full garbage bag of leaves in there.

Moved onto wirewheeling my quarter panel plugs. Got a good sample of the green paint to match. As I was wirewheeling it, the familiar "anchor" that I've seen on many bolts emerged from the rust. For those who have the other style, any markings on them? Will finish painting them and begin the engine build tomorrow.

 

Pics of rolling undercarriage outside along with drain plug marking photo

 

Last note for today- received my repro VIN sticker in. They did a great job getting the details right in the font and spacing of the typed numbers. In the pics first is the original (which I'm going to save) and second is the repro.

 

looks good joe but man these guys are exspensive

 

I must have missed it, Where did you get the door decal done at?

 

Engine Reassembly Day (7 1/2 hours)

Spent the day putting the engine together on the stand. I had the machine shop assemble the lower end and cylinder heads, and I assembled the rest of the motor. They used Federal Mogul 369P-030 pistons, Enginetech M41258-030 rings, brass freeze plugs, Enginetech rod and main bearings at .010, Enginetech cam bearings, and a neoprene rear main seal on the block. On the heads, all new SBI W-30 style springs & rotators, intake and exhaust valves, Enginetech premium silicone valve stem seals and keepers. Valve guides were all replaced. Three angle valve job was done on all new hardened seats.

Before beginning today, I chased all bolt holes one more time. Cleaned out cylinder bores using a lint free white cloth.

I today installed the 406768 cam I had manufactured to the correct original specs. Installed all new Enginetech L951X lifters and three piece timing set, Melling push rods and rocker arms. Also installed the standard M22F Melling oil pump, drive shaft, and screen (left 1/4" gap between pick up and the bottom of the pan sump). Drove the original oil dipstick tube back in after cleaning it well.
Used the OE style metal shim head gaskets liberally coated with Hi Tack, and Enginetech gaskets on the balance. Installed the oil fill tube that I had my painter do some body work on because someone in the early 80's used a pair of channel locks to remove it.

Everything went together well - too well. As I was getting to the end today, I realized I had left the front crank seal oil slinger off - after installing the timing cover, water pump and oil pan. Looks like I am going to have to pull the front off to fix. Timing cover isn't too bad, but the oil pan sealing is going to have to be redone - ugh.

Used the high ZDDP concentrate on all cam lobes, and Permatex Ultra Slick on all other friction surfaces - lots of it. Used Permatex Ultra Black silicone for all gasket sealing surfaces.

Took some pics of different factory paint splotches on the driver's side of the block along with some marking that looks like 2 threes or and 8. Also took a picture of the mystery stamping (4972) on the starter mounting pad.

 

Looks great joe looks more of an 8 then a three to me albeit done like a grade schooler with two circles

 

This is stamped on my 67 Toronado 425 block.


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