Eric if you have pics of the original tags please email them to me.

 

Thanks guys. Eric, my set decals pre cut peel and stick. Looks like my set they sold me is indeed completely mislabeled for my car - I think now it is definately for the W-31 application they have (OOD7003) but it is labeled for a 70 442. I went back and checked my invoice - the OOD7001 is what I ordered.

I am going to go through every decal I use and check for its accuracy against the PIM/CSM, and make - like I did on the calipers and drum sticker - my own for every one that is incorrect.

I know that most of these tags should have been removed in the assembly process. The only ones I found on my car during disassembly was the remnants of one on the rear springs, and the booster one (WK) mounted in the CORRECT place - which is sandwiched between the check valve and booster check valve grommet with the hole in the tag going over the nipple of the check valve. It does not hang from the steel booster to intake tube like I have seen so many others do. Also, my original speedo cable has the "CR" inkstamped in white on the cable - it does NOT have a label on it like provided in the kit.

Hope you guys got some goodies today.

 

Copy me too!

 

yes eric copy to me three
thanks ray

 

Me four

 

X2 on the CD being printed on the speedo cable. The AY was also ink stamped on the alternator and no decal. These pictures are the only I have on the computer. I will see if I can get some more pictures of the other tags that I have.

Front brake cable AB
Wire harness FG
Spring RK

 

I had the original spiral front shocks and couldn't read the decals but you can see the location of where they were located here. Also the CD speedometer cable.

I would like to get the correct drum and rear end decal but other than that I am not going to install them all. I even have a couple that I installed and ripped in half, leaving some remains behind.

I know i have at least 5 or 6 more decals that I need to get pictures of.

 

Joe, it has been a while and I just spent several hours catching up.
The blank space that follows is my only reaction. Speechless! Keep up the remarkable work!

 

Eric, I'll be glad to make you an extra SF drum sticker, and if I wind up having to make a tube decal you can have one of those as well. Thanks for posting the pics. Your speedo cable is CD? Mine is CR.

 

joe would u do me a SF sticker and a TT tube sticker also
thanks ray

 

That would be great! Thanks.

 

Ray, Eric,

I spent some time today cross checking the tag codes and P/N's on my set of stickers as well as the pics Ray posted of his set. I am even more confused on my kit, because though a lot of the tags could be construed as designed for a W-31, a couple of tags, like the negative battery cable are correct for a 442 and not for a W-31. My kit is a complete mish mash of different applications, and just plain wrong info. For example, no Olds application I see has a "Y" P/S gearbox decal - it should either be a AY or a HP. (like Ray has in his kit)

On your kit Ray, assuming you have a 70 W-30 Coupe AT with A/C car, these are the things wrong with your kit I see according to the info in the PIM and CSM:

Front Sway Bar - code letter should be a "B" instead of the "HI". The number interestingly is correct

Oil Filler Tube - as you know, it should be a TT

Rear Control Arms - both uppers should be a NJ, and both lowers should be a NZ

Front Control Arms - I don't know about these. My kit does not offer them at all, but my kit says you should have two uppers and lower REARS in the kit.

Axle Tube & Brake Drum - both should be SF. Even more interesting is that ILT says it should be on the RH drum, but the PIM says it should be placed on the LH drum!!!

Disc Brake Caliper - your code is right (OM) but the P/N's are wrong. They should be 405138 - R and 405139 - L.

Fuel Line - should be 406355

Fuel Line Return - should be 406357

Fuel Tank Sender Assy - should be 6428573 - the 6428005 in the kit does not appear at all in the PIM.

Still you kit has the following items RIGHT with it mine does not have:

Rear Springs
Positive Battery Cable
Alternator Tag - but like Eric says, do not use!!
Front Brake Cable
Center Brake Cable
Booster Tag (the one with the hole) - however, they sell a separate one - much more correct which is thicker and made out of cardboard stock.

And mine has one item RIGHT with it yours does not have:

Fuel Tank - mine is 405096 (not sure about the code letter B)

Most crazy is the trans cooling lines. Both our kits have the codes "OA" and "CB". The PIM lists codes "OA" and "OB", but these are for the L6 cars or 350 CID cars without A/C. The ones for 350 with A/C and 455 cars do not have a code listed next to the description at all - very confusing!!!

The rear parking brake cables I can't find a P/N anywhere for at all, but ours are the same - 1382429, so I believe this is correct.

I believe the throttle cable is correct and proportioning stickers are correct, the speedo should be inkstamped as previously discussed but the code is correct, and the gauges for yours is correct if your car does not have the gauge option.

I don't know what the 3886154 "pump" sticker is for and the approved by, steering linkage, engine mount, wiring harness stickers I am not going to even try researching since I won't be using.

Will find out more after I call ILT. Hope this helps.

 

joe I hope u are in good standings with ILT, the body mount kit I got from them has the wrong set of mounts in the kit . I decided to bring them with me to the nationals this year to ck. if they were the wright kit for my car. my car only has 6 bolts holding the main body to the frame ( not counting the radiator support). I tried to explain this to the guy working the ILT tent and he was so rude I had to just walk away. he would not even listen to what I had to say and told me I would have to talk to the guy that sold them to me. the assembly manual show variation in the mounts used which the kit does not accommodate. wish I had got this guys name he seem to be mad at the world . I hate when I get things from a company that is suppose to be on top of these things. seems like they could do the research that u are doing to get these tag sheets wright. but I think with some things it is all about sales and the correctness of the item suffers and for many of us we are just a small cry in a large forest.
thanks for all the time and effort u put into getting our car correct
ray

 

You are welcome Ray.

On this and my last project, my total largest spend with the Specialty Olds vendors has been with ILT. On the other car, everything went well. On this car to date, not so much. I hardly ever return anything, but I also had a issue with the body bushings (marked as Chevrolet because I did not buy the premium kit) and bought a fender brace that the quality and originality of was laughable. You just can't call and get a return authorized - you now have to wait till someone calls you back usually within 24 hours to process your request. I waited and waited, nothing. Called back again three days later and was told to leave another message. Still never got a call back so I sent an e-mail to the general office inbox explaining the situation and got a call back within an hour.

Also, the shipping within 24 hours standard has slipped. When I placed that order, I told them I needed certain parts no more than a week later. They said it will ship within 24 hours - no problem. Well, a week later no parts. After holding forever, someone told me it was shipping that day because one of the brake lines had to be fabricated. Of course I asked why had not the balance of the order already shipped, and they said they don't do that. I said then why, when I specifically asked about the delivery and told them the parts I needed, they had not called to let me know? "We Can't Do That" is what I heard.

I take pride in knowing something about customer service. I own a company Enginetech that is a 25Mil internal engine parts supplier primarily to production engine builders and machine shops. Recently, Rock Auto has become a customer of ours. In six months, we have become one of their largest suppliers period, and take great pride in receiving our monthly report card from them telling us there is only one, out of hundreds of other suppliers they have, that does a better job in their key measurements of customer service. In addition to them, we do buisness with 1200 other repeat customers every month and engine builders do not put up with much of anything for long. Do you know how fast I would lose everything we have worked so hard to achieve if we were to begin treating customers much as ILT, let alone Brothers seems to regularly do? They get away with it by having products no one else has. My experience says that won't last forever - someone will soon come along who will have a lower cost of doing business, know where the sources are, be hungry to grow, and will do so by taking care of their customers when there is a problem. Those issues are opportunities to make customers for life!
I guess it is back to Fusick wherever I can because I suspect you are right - when I call on this issue no one will want to do anything to make it right unless I somehow get upper management involved, and I'm too busy for that BS nowadays - this is supposed to be fun!

Sorry for the rant. These problems are all so completely avoidable - it drives me CRAZY!

 

Joe your business philosophy is spot on, you can have the best ship in the world , but it can founder if there isnt someone able at the rudder, great job on your resto really enjoying it.

 

joe got the column tag in today thanks a bunch for sending it to me and let me know if I can do anything for you. good to hear your company is growing, if your company work ethic is as good as your work ethic on your W-30 it has no way to go put up.
thanks again: Ray

 

Today I called ILT about the issue. I began by carefully explaining the problems I was having with the decal kit (i.e. W-31 oil tube sticker in the 70 442 kit) and the representative said "Oh, these kits are meant for all the parts on the underside of the car - no one ever sees the oil tube sticker" (I am not making this up). With that, I knew I wasn't getting anywhere with this guy so I asked if he could just e-mail me some pics of what the other two decal kits contain to see if I could pick out which one is more correct (like the one Ray bought) and then if I have to, buy that one as well. The rep says he cannot do that, but says he can transfer me to his supervisor's desk to leave a message to see if he can help me, but he is out and won't be back until Monday.

So, I decided to go ahead and make my own. In the attached pic, here are some sample sheets printed on regular paper. You can see the incorrect ILT sticker, marked with an X in a circle, next to the ones I made up. Mine are correct with the info I found yesterday and I've come as close as I can on fonts, proportions, and colors as I can. Tonight I bought some good quality label stock, and tomorrow I will try printing them - hopefully everything will remain the same when printed.

I will probably go back and make up templates for all my stickers - even the few that were correct in the kit - so that way I can print my own whenever I need new ones. Best of all, I can go back and simply change the text for any other applications I might want to do and print them out in minutes.

You are welcome Ray, and thanks Eddie.

 

joe I did my seat belt tags on the computer, paint brush program and I have made decals for my candy and gum machines that I have restored in the past.

 

Ray, I had 70POST clean my belts with the original labels on them - they came out fantastic. I didn't do these myself because I have no experience cleaning them and I didn't want to ruin the labels. He also reworked a couple of the covers (mine are the standard black plastic covers - not the deluxe like yours) and fixed a couple of the GM emblems.

 

Joe - Your covers are metal, just like the deluxe buckles but with a textured finish stamped into the outside metal surface.

 

I make all my own PN labels. That way they are correct and if I need a new one all I have to do is print it. I used to use label paper but now I just spray regular paper with 3M adhesive. The Inline sheets are generic and not worth buying.

 

Kind of sad that a guy 220 miles away knows my own car's parts better than myself with them sitting 15 feet from where I am typing this.

 

These aren't just generic - some are just completely wrong. You would think they would be able to have a simple query type of spreadsheet set up to where they fill in the blanks on your car's equipment for those items that have variation, and then print & ship. They could charge 75.00 for this level of specificity and most I believe would pay it - or more.

I'm waiting on a pic of that VIN label. Will send it to you by Monday evening if I don't go see the painter this weekend and get it myself.

 

Joe just a thought they make full sheet vinyl type labels for a laser printer, its pricey around 40 bucks for a hundred sheets but it would be fairly weather proof you can scan a sheet and use a high dpi highest you can find above 600 x 600 dpi it makes it crisper printing, and have sheets printed at kinkos, I have also made laser printed waterslide decals this way. Once I also suggest giving the sheets a dusting of clear lacquer out of a spraycan should be nearly indestructable. Thinking about it as I type they also make fabric labels which might work for seatbelts and such. You can have kinkos do the printing if you do not have a laser printer just thinking out loud.

 

Pics of the corrected labels I made up last night. These, as noted above, are correct as to the part numbers and codes for the way my car was equipped. Obviously the label formats (colors, sizes, fonts) are matched to what the ILT kit provides.
Not sure about using black or red for the filler tube, and I made plenty of extras in case I mess up cutting them out.

 

Just curious, as Inline doesn't quite cut it, how do Dr. Decal's products match up?

 

Dr Decal doesnt make these decals.

 

1st place I looked.

Actually, for the reasons mentioned above, I'm glad I had to make them.

 

Actual work session (3 hours)

I don't know why but I never log the hours spent in parts hunting, research, and things like label making. Come to think of it, I don't want to know.

Today was indoor work on interior soft goods.

Front door panels - these babies are mint. The chrome Mylar tape is in excellent condition (years ago I messed up a set in perfect shapeby rubbing the tape right off), no rips, or worn spots. On the RH one I re glued the bottom edge - the strip that runs below the carpet panel - to the cardboard backing, scrubbed with a light tension brush and mild interior cleaner. Saw "687" scribbled on the backs in red crayon. Carpeting panel looks good, but it might be a tiny bit faded. Will see how it matches with the original carpet I intend to use before dyeing it.

Rear upper panels - pretty much the same as fronts. On the RH side, there was a 1 1/2 X 7 inch piece of cardboard glue to the back of it. Might be a spacer, but looks pretty jury rigged. The LH one had a spot in it where something had got on it and dried very hard. Had to get out a magnifying glass and a pin and dig the gunk out of the individual crevices, but it came out nice.

Rear lower panels - you know the stereotype of the line worker, collecting a check, and not giving a damn? This guy did my lower panels. Super sloppy cuts, adhesive everywhere, poor fit because of not relieving the material by cutting in the right places. Did my best to re glue these into presentable condition, but it's not the end of the world since the problem areas are hidden by the lower seat cushion.

Sun Visor - again just a light cleaning. Some extra thread had to be trimmed off the RH side one, and the metal caps at the stitching ends needed a little polishing. The "bushings" at the end of the rod - the ones that go into the rear view mirror support thing are tan colored. All the repos I have seen are gray. Mine are borderline to use, but I like the originality of it and they don't show much anyway.

Door welts - to me, the nicest parts on the whole interior since they are in perfect condition, originals are usually torn, badly scratched, cracked, grain worn off, and the repos suck. Again, just a good deep cleaning with detergent and a medium tension brush and a very light coat of Armor All - the yellow foam that shows on the end of the tubing was nice as well.

 

Visor and welting pics

 

I have used sem landau black on the lower carpet on the door panels with great results. I felt like it matched very well to the original color. Glad to see that you are able to reuse most of the interior. I will have to replace most all of mine.

 

Eric, hopefully I won't have to paint. They carpet looks faded in the pic because - again - my cell phone camera makes everything look so washed out. If you look in that pic, you can see in the area below where the reflector sat it is almost the same color as the rest of panel and it was protected for 43 years! (The table the panel was on in the pic is an orange color in real life!)

The challenge will be to see how the carpet comes out.

 

joe this car had to have stayed in a garage all of its life except for when it was in use. this interior is unreal for 45 years old I have to replace every thing in mine. like u said for the window sweep's to still be good is amazing, with the interior in this condition u saved yourself a bundle.

 

Undercarriage doodling and setting up for the last major part to do (2 1/2 hours)

Today I wirewheeled (with the surface grinder) the bell drums I bought. Shot a "messier" semi gloss paint job across the front face. Because of the shape, more overspray did indeed get on the sides of these more than the finned ones I had previously done. Put the SF sticker on the LEFT hand side drum - as per the PIM - and done with this issue.

Had a great long discussion about the bell vs. finned on 70 thing with 70Post. The PIM "Chart - Axle Assembly" (page 9) references both types, with no distinction as to which application is intended for each, other than not for 4800 series (wagons)

The bell type is the M.W. or Motor Wheel type - I believe Motor Wheel was the manufacturer name. They have a left and right hand part number 398457 and 398456 respectively. The are called the "Centrifugal Cast Drum With Sheet Metal Flange." The PIM states it has a green stripe on the LH drum. Since it would be there before the SS wheel blackout, I ran the stripe on the bell edge. At some point something was there, but I don't know if it was a paint marking or not.

The finned type is referred to on the same page as K.H. (Kelsey Hayes) 9788681 - same for both sides. It is identified as "Composite Cast Drum - 3" Overall Depth".

The date on the page (P/N 405237) is August 5, 1969. There is a notation on March 14, 1970 saying the chart was retyped and revised, but no specific data on what was changed. So, it looks like either drum is correct - per the PIM - for a 70 Olds A body non wagon application.

Replaced my caliper pin bolts with the silver cad bolts. Also finished printing my correct stickers to replace all the bogus ones in the ILT and, as expected, no phone call back today from them.

Got out the carpeting to begin assessing what I am going to have to do to it to get it in acceptable condition. I still think it is salvagable - there are no tears, or badly worn spots in it anywhere. I believe it will definately need to be dyed, so I will have to go back and do the door panel carpet strips as well.

 

joe my car has the original bell drums and was built 11 A, I did not see any markings on them but there was a good amount of surface rust on them.
thanks ray

 

No update - just wishing everyone the happiest of The New Year.

Joe

 

You too Joe!

 

Same to you and your family Joe. I cannot wait to see what 2015 brings to your project.

 

Thanks joe and to you and yours

 

No work, but some progress nonetheless (0 hours)

Today got a line on a vintage spare tire. Going to use the repro Wide Ovals for the road wheels.

Spoke today with the painter. He sounds ready to get it in gear and get this project finished. I wrote out a list of over 15 detail items to go over him with when we meet on Monday on things such as window installation technique (butyl tape), upper dash finish texture (thanks 70Post), whether to install the middle body mount bolts since mine were never originally installed, striping technique, and what trim items and factory markings/scribbles need to be installed on the fenders prior to hanging them.

STILL have not received the 406768 70 442 M/T cam I need to reassemble the engine. I have been screwing with this since August. Maybe it is a sign since that cam will be the only component on the whole car that is not correct for it - bad Juju? Just a little more rump at idle.....

Went through the PIM again from cover to cover looking for more details I may have missed before in order to get the reassembly correct for everything I did not document during the teardown. Found a few goodies here and there.

Decided to use Gardner for the exhaust. If the engine is completed before I have to take the rolling frame back to the painter, I now plan on putting in the motor and trans along with the exhaust. I'll cocoon everything, and then, just prior to body drop, go to the paint shop and install the firewall pad, speedo cable, inside heater box and outside evap case. That way the evap case will not be damaged trying to wrestle it in after the motor is installed - it just drops into place.