Fell Into My Lap - Documented 1970 W-30
#1161
Be sure you DO NOT use those screws that come with the NOS hood molding. The ones that come in the box are to long and will damage the molding.
Wish I was going to the nationals this year but I can't get away.
Wish I was going to the nationals this year but I can't get away.
#1162
Sure you cant come down for just a day?
Last edited by costpenn; June 20th, 2019 at 06:43 AM.
#1163
Do your hood moulding bolts have tiny little anchors on them similar to the larger core support bolts?
#1164
I just took a vacation and then another day for Homecoming and have more time off in July for a 3 wheeler MX race I am a crew member on. I can't really take any more time off.
#1166
At the Nationals last week. The Asro Blue really popped indoors under the lights - especially at night. It was a lot of fun meeting all the CO regulars who make it every year including our Canadian and Aussie friends.
Now this one is in Senior Preservation. Learned a few more items to be fixed/corrected such as researching the correct plastic cover color on the alternator positive post, replace the front main bumper to bracket bolts with the cap style, and getting a OEM material LH front arm rest pad. The original rear glass has some light wear scratching that showed up under the lighting. I'll be on the lookout for either an excellent used or NOS piece. Thanks to Texas442 (Ali) for the photo
#1167
The mounting screws I have holding them on have no head marking at all. They were the ones on the car when I got it, but I'm not 100% sure they are correct.
Last edited by costpenn; July 2nd, 2019 at 02:55 AM.
#1168
#1169
Also, hope the air cleaner base made it to you OK. Survived this year's ritualistic trainer tire blowout. Patton turned it into Dan - chain of custody lost after that.
#1171
Congrats on the senior preservation award! Job well done.
#1173
Are you running the new made-in-USA Goodyear trailer tires? They are the Endurance series... haven't heard anything bad about them yet.
For glass scratches that you can't feel, you can try Ceriglass or other options. I've had mediocre success - a lot has cleared up with the polishing, it's just a lot of work and a huge mess. It's hard (impossible?) to find original glass that doesn't have fine scratches from years of cleaning and debris. You'd likely want to remove the rear window to try, as this is a wet process that flings everywhere.
https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html or https://www.autogeek.net/lc-pro-glass-kit.html
For glass scratches that you can't feel, you can try Ceriglass or other options. I've had mediocre success - a lot has cleared up with the polishing, it's just a lot of work and a huge mess. It's hard (impossible?) to find original glass that doesn't have fine scratches from years of cleaning and debris. You'd likely want to remove the rear window to try, as this is a wet process that flings everywhere.
https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html or https://www.autogeek.net/lc-pro-glass-kit.html
#1174
Saw you're car at the show and took pictures of it not knowing it was the car in the thread I follow on CO that was hilarious to me, the car looks great by the way you've done a fantastic job with it!
#1176
Are you running the new made-in-USA Goodyear trailer tires? They are the Endurance series... haven't heard anything bad about them yet.
For glass scratches that you can't feel, you can try Ceriglass or other options. I've had mediocre success - a lot has cleared up with the polishing, it's just a lot of work and a huge mess. It's hard (impossible?) to find original glass that doesn't have fine scratches from years of cleaning and debris. You'd likely want to remove the rear window to try, as this is a wet process that flings everywhere.
https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html or https://www.autogeek.net/lc-pro-glass-kit.html
For glass scratches that you can't feel, you can try Ceriglass or other options. I've had mediocre success - a lot has cleared up with the polishing, it's just a lot of work and a huge mess. It's hard (impossible?) to find original glass that doesn't have fine scratches from years of cleaning and debris. You'd likely want to remove the rear window to try, as this is a wet process that flings everywhere.
https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html or https://www.autogeek.net/lc-pro-glass-kit.html
The tire shop I went to in Wichita could not find a full set of 5 on Saturday, but he did fill me in on the Endurance tires and the reasons for the Marathons being discontinued (what I had on it) Trust me, I will get a set in exactly four years when the Carlisle 10 ply E rated tires I did get will need to be replaced.
Also so thanks for the tips on the back glass. I would remove the frigging thing prior to polishing. I'd still like to find one NOS, but I'm sure it is unobtanium.
#1177
#1180
Hello Luke - missed you at the Nats - maybe MCACN in November?
The tire shop I went to in Wichita could not find a full set of 5 on Saturday, but he did fill me in on the Endurance tires and the reasons for the Marathons being discontinued (what I had on it) Trust me, I will get a set in exactly four years when the Carlisle 10 ply E rated tires I did get will need to be replaced.
Also so thanks for the tips on the back glass. I would remove the frigging thing prior to polishing. I'd still like to find one NOS, but I'm sure it is unobtanium.
The tire shop I went to in Wichita could not find a full set of 5 on Saturday, but he did fill me in on the Endurance tires and the reasons for the Marathons being discontinued (what I had on it) Trust me, I will get a set in exactly four years when the Carlisle 10 ply E rated tires I did get will need to be replaced.
Also so thanks for the tips on the back glass. I would remove the frigging thing prior to polishing. I'd still like to find one NOS, but I'm sure it is unobtanium.
And we missed you at MCACN last year. Sorry for your loss. We'll be at MCACN as it's a local show for us in the windy city.
be thankful you have tinted glass. good original clear glass is unobtainium, hence why the glass on my 31 looks like it does.
I would have liked to been in Wichita, but a) I didn't plan it well b) the W-31 still isn't done.
I'm going to plan TN next year .... with the W-31 ....
Last edited by junior supercar; July 8th, 2019 at 01:38 PM. Reason: added more info
#1181
And we missed you at MCACN last year. Sorry for your loss. We'll be at MCACN as it's a local show for us in the windy city.
be thankful you have tinted glass. good original clear glass is unobtainium, hence why the glass on my 31 looks like it does.
I would have liked to been in Wichita, but a) I didn't plan it well b) the W-31 still isn't done.
I'm going to plan TN next year .... with the W-31 ....
be thankful you have tinted glass. good original clear glass is unobtainium, hence why the glass on my 31 looks like it does.
I would have liked to been in Wichita, but a) I didn't plan it well b) the W-31 still isn't done.
I'm going to plan TN next year .... with the W-31 ....
We'll be up at MCACN. Look forward to it as per usual. I was going to PM you about air cleaner labels fo 72's - the "little" ones that have the air filter P/N on them - do you make these yet?
#1182
Hi Joe, it was great to catch up at the Nationals and meet you and a number of the CO guys. Your car blew me away and is now the benchmark I'm working toward as I progress its White & Gold brother. I think I took a hundred or so pics to reference and confirm things as I approach the tail end of my resto. Reading this tread over the past few years has been inspirational but seeing the car up close was worth the 20 odd hour flight from Australia alone. I can only hope I can deliver a result that is close to your car.
Congrats and well done. Hope we can catch up again when I get back across the Pacific again. Cheers Rohan
Congrats and well done. Hope we can catch up again when I get back across the Pacific again. Cheers Rohan
#1183
Hi Joe, it was great to catch up at the Nationals and meet you and a number of the CO guys. Your car blew me away and is now the benchmark I'm working toward as I progress its White & Gold brother. I think I took a hundred or so pics to reference and confirm things as I approach the tail end of my resto. Reading this tread over the past few years has been inspirational but seeing the car up close was worth the 20 odd hour flight from Australia alone. I can only hope I can deliver a result that is close to your car.
Congrats and well done. Hope we can catch up again when I get back across the Pacific again. Cheers Rohan
Congrats and well done. Hope we can catch up again when I get back across the Pacific again. Cheers Rohan
#1185
PM sent costpenn
Glad the driveshaft sanding is over. (2 1/2 hours)
Wish I had a giant lathe. There is rust powder everywhere from all the sanding I did on that thing. Went 80' then 220 and finally 400 grit, and used the wire wheel to get into the yokes, end welds, and around the balancing weights. I was hoping to leave it bare and just clear it, but again I am hung up on using the original parts off this car if at all possible and there is just too much pitting to leave as is after sanding. After wiping it down with brake cleaner I hung it up and shot the main tube in a new Rustoleum "Dark Metal" paint which is a primer and topcoat all in one. To me, it looks a little closer to bare unpolished steel tube than the Stainless Paint I was going to use, but this stuff is taking forever to dry. Once ready, I'm going to paint the end welds with the Krylon Chrome paint, the yokes with the Cast Iron paint, and the balancing weights will be wire wheeled nude again and shot with clear. Lastly, I'll install the U joints and then paint the stripes.
Got my dash in from the ebay auction I won. It is just as promised with no rips, tears or warpage. (looks like it has a sag above the gauges in the pic - it doesn't - that is from the way I posed it and it wont happen again!!) The guy had already painted it in the SEM Landau Black and installed a new dash bead. This is one time where something off ebay has exceeded my expectations.
Tomorrow I get busy prepping to paint all the loose stuff I had stripped at QPC.
Wish I had a giant lathe. There is rust powder everywhere from all the sanding I did on that thing. Went 80' then 220 and finally 400 grit, and used the wire wheel to get into the yokes, end welds, and around the balancing weights. I was hoping to leave it bare and just clear it, but again I am hung up on using the original parts off this car if at all possible and there is just too much pitting to leave as is after sanding. After wiping it down with brake cleaner I hung it up and shot the main tube in a new Rustoleum "Dark Metal" paint which is a primer and topcoat all in one. To me, it looks a little closer to bare unpolished steel tube than the Stainless Paint I was going to use, but this stuff is taking forever to dry. Once ready, I'm going to paint the end welds with the Krylon Chrome paint, the yokes with the Cast Iron paint, and the balancing weights will be wire wheeled nude again and shot with clear. Lastly, I'll install the U joints and then paint the stripes.
Got my dash in from the ebay auction I won. It is just as promised with no rips, tears or warpage. (looks like it has a sag above the gauges in the pic - it doesn't - that is from the way I posed it and it wont happen again!!) The guy had already painted it in the SEM Landau Black and installed a new dash bead. This is one time where something off ebay has exceeded my expectations.
Tomorrow I get busy prepping to paint all the loose stuff I had stripped at QPC.
#1186
Joe,
I noticed the number '846' scribbled on your original gas tank. Did you see that number anywhere else on the car? What about the grease scribble on the back side of the glove box door? I had what I believe was a '32' on the top of my tank and also saw '32' scribbled on the back side of the glove box door.
I noticed the number '846' scribbled on your original gas tank. Did you see that number anywhere else on the car? What about the grease scribble on the back side of the glove box door? I had what I believe was a '32' on the top of my tank and also saw '32' scribbled on the back side of the glove box door.
#1187
Joe,
I noticed the number '846' scribbled on your original gas tank. Did you see that number anywhere else on the car? What about the grease scribble on the back side of the glove box door? I had what I believe was a '32' on the top of my tank and also saw '32' scribbled on the back side of the glove box door.
I noticed the number '846' scribbled on your original gas tank. Did you see that number anywhere else on the car? What about the grease scribble on the back side of the glove box door? I had what I believe was a '32' on the top of my tank and also saw '32' scribbled on the back side of the glove box door.
#1188
What an amazing restoration and excellent thread telling the story Costpenn! Such and enjoyable read and lots of great reference information.
Did you happen to keep a record of what the original finish is on each part and what paints and processes you used to duplicate the finish on each part? What a wealth of information that would be.
Thanks
Brad
Did you happen to keep a record of what the original finish is on each part and what paints and processes you used to duplicate the finish on each part? What a wealth of information that would be.
Thanks
Brad
Last edited by w30brad; September 10th, 2020 at 04:30 AM.
#1189
What an amazing restoration and excellent thread telling the story Costpenn! Such and enjoyable read and lots of great reference information.
Did you happen to keep a record of what the original finish is on each part and what paints and processes you used to duplicate the finish on each part? What a wealth of information that would be.
Thanks
Brad
Did you happen to keep a record of what the original finish is on each part and what paints and processes you used to duplicate the finish on each part? What a wealth of information that would be.
Thanks
Brad
i didn't keep a record of it per se over and above what I wrote in the work detail. I think I will spreadsheet it on the next one I do - it might make for a guide as to how much you will need of what in further helping quantify the true resto cost. That is something missng in all my expense accounting.
Thanks for the kind words.
Last edited by costpenn; September 10th, 2020 at 06:38 AM.
#1191
At the Nationals last week. The Asro Blue really popped indoors under the lights - especially at night. It was a lot of fun meeting all the CO regulars who make it every year including our Canadian and Aussie friends.
Now this one is in Senior Preservation. Learned a few more items to be fixed/corrected such as researching the correct plastic cover color on the alternator positive post, replace the front main bumper to bracket bolts with the cap style, and getting a OEM material LH front arm rest pad. The original rear glass has some light wear scratching that showed up under the lighting. I'll be on the lookout for either an excellent used or NOS piece. Thanks to Texas442 (Ali) for the photo
So, when is the next Olds restoration project for you?
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