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Definitely a nice looking job... What a difference from what you started with...
Thanks, I really wasn't expecting this kind of rot there but at least new panels are available. I need to weld in the glass channel. Spent some time fitting it today.
Had some time to jump into the right side quarter repair. Since the inner lip as well as the outer were rotted away I sourced a cut panel from a fellow member here. Then I realized I needed to separate the inner from the outer on the sourced panel for an easy fit. It worked out well, more patching is needed on the rear lower. I removed EXCESSIVE bondo from most of the rear quarter. It is relatively straight and I see no need for all the bondo that was there. So it seems I am off to a good start so far with this job. I was surprised to find a bit of rot high on the quarter near the tail light.
Had some time to jump into the right side quarter repair. Since the inner lip as well as the outer were rotted away I sourced a cut panel from a fellow member here. Then I realized I needed to separate the inner from the outer on the sourced panel for an easy fit. It worked out well, more patching is needed on the rear lower. I removed EXCESSIVE bondo from most of the rear quarter. It is relatively straight and I see no need for all the bondo that was there. So it seems I am off to a good start so far with this job. I was surprised to find a bit of rot high on the quarter near the tail light.
Nice
I like your method of keeping as much original sheet metal as possible.
Some like swaping out large sections of sheet metal during a car restoration not a fan of this method unless necessary.
Thanks for sharing.
Nice
I like your method of keeping as much original sheet metal as possible.
Some like swaping out large sections of sheet metal during a car restoration not a fan of this method unless necessary.
Thanks for sharing.
Yes, as little molestation as possible of the factory build is what I like.
Decided to pull the rear for ease of welding inner wheelhouse and want to swap the 355 P type into it. Rear springs were too tall so they will also be swapped. Thankfully none of the bolts were frozen to the bushing sleeves but the impact gun was a lifesaver! Acquired a repop grill bar that had a bit of flaking on the red 4, Testors red as suggested was a perfect match. I also found a nos Accel Chevy starter that I converted to an Olds unit.
Decided to pull the rear for ease of welding inner wheelhouse and want to swap the 355 P type into it. Rear springs were too tall so they will also be swapped. Thankfully none of the bolts were frozen to the bushing sleeves but the impact gun was a lifesaver! Acquired a repop grill bar that had a bit of flaking on the red 4, Testors red as suggested was a perfect match. I also found a nos Accel Chevy starter that I converted to an Olds unit.
Th machine shop called and said the pin area of the rods on the 400 E block had been ground oversize (for some reason in the past) so I ended up giving him another set of rods. I picked up everything and now I can start assembly. The price for the block and crank work came to 1600 dollars. The crank only needed a polish and it is still standard but I did have them machine the back end for the pilot bearing. The car is stick and this core engine was an auto. The block was bored 30 over, decked, new core plugs, magnafluxed, bore alignment checked, big end of the rods trued, new pistons pressed. My only complaint is that they replaced the threaded plug behind the little core plug at the rear of engine with a solid one, no hole. Lucky for me is they gave me all the original old stuff and the original one was there so I installed the correct one. Always check I have learned. I installed the cam bearings today, have main bearings on order. I also have a set of C heads ready to go.
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; Mar 10, 2021 at 02:59 PM.
I bolted the crank in today, plastigage says all is well with .002 oil clearance on mains with # 5 at around .003. I need to get rings and rod bearings still. I worked a little more on the rt quarter, its getting there.
Got the lower windshield channel repaired. There was more rot and thin spots than expected, (there always is). In reality this panel probably should have been replaced but its good now. I was happy to see the top channel and sides had no rot and next to no rust either. I removed the Z bar and found the bushing/rubber grommet was toast. It had the factory type that was rubber with the metal sleeve. My 4speed Delta also had this type. The other end had the linkage hole worn egg shaped and the pin for the adjusting rod worn sloppy as well. Perhaps this is why the clutch pedal felt so mushy when pressed.... Since the 400 is coming along assembly wise I will be pulling the 455 and Muncie soon.
Thanks Eddie and Cruzin66! Well today the 400 got dressed a bit more and A Fireball bump stick! Yeah I know there are better choices but no sense making it garage wall art!
Thanks Eddie and Cruzin66! Well today the 400 got dressed a bit more and A Fireball bump stick! Yeah I know there are better choices but no sense making it garage wall art!
Hey man I remember when they were the In thing.... lol all the guys be like yeahgot me a 3/4 cam LOL....
I have been ordering parts, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, brake hoses, ball joints, shocks. Funny how ya can't move forward without spending cash! I got back the coil springs I had on the red 67, I liked the way it sat with those. With today's rain I worked a bit on the 400. Oil pan is on and one cylinder head. I used the factory style steel shim gaskets that I had laying around. Also came across a set of nos blue stripe valve springs aka W30 springs.
Starting to make ready for the 455 removal. The right side exhaust manifold gave me some trouble. The bolts were super tight and when I finally got them loose, two pieces of the manifold dropped to the ground...its toast. On the other side 3 of the bolts are not moving. I will wait till the engine is out to work on getting this manifold off. I pulled the Muncie, its the wide ratio trans. The clutch looks brand new so at least I can reuse that. I am not sure the crank is a factory drilled unit. There is a weird looking bushing in there that almost looks like 2 pieces, the inner and outer. Just past the opening in the bushing I can feel gouges and the hole in the crank seems to go in pretty deep.
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; May 24, 2020 at 06:22 PM.
Reason: spelling
Really awesome so see what youve done so far! Gives me a lot of hope since the bondo-bubbles in the rear window channel on mine started to burst. So IT IS possible! Respect!
Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac
Spent some time patching rot and cleaning up things at rear glass. I also cut out the bad metal around the left quarter wheel opening.
Have been working on the front suspension, changing out springs, new ball joints, shocks, brake hoses, wheel cylinders. I found the upper control arm bushings bad on the driver's side so they are on order. I pulled the front fenders and was very surprised to see absolutely no rot on the lowers where they always rot. I am wondering if the fenders were upgraded sometime and perhaps even replaced with NOS. I have pulled my share of 67 fenders and have never found fenders in this condition. They will need some straightening though at the front edges. The holes for the 442 fender badges are there but were bondoed over. The last Pa. inspection was 1983, maybe the 442 badges were not widely reproduced then... I also got the 455 out, as said my brother wants to put it in a 71 Cutlass with a 4spd conversion.
Still plugging away on the project. Am calling the quarters done for now where the patches were installed. More sanding, checking and primer will be needed before color. I worked on the front edge of the driver's fender using the end cap as a guide. It was bent over pretty good. I needed to drill the spot welds on the bracing there to get the metal to move where it had to go then re-weld. It came out decent. Upon removing paint from the rest of the fender I did find some old repairs but nothing major. And once again this fender is unbelievably solid.
Had some time to start on the passenger fender, a few dings and dents (old repairs) were found under the paint. The front edge too was bent in a bit so that took some hammering. One small rot hole appeared at the lower edge. There was also some deep pitting here and there that needed filling. I use a dremel with a small ball shaped diamond bit to clean all the rust out of the pits before filling.
Work continues, got the hood in primer, trunk lid, fenders, and gasket channel for trunk. Pieces will be stored away for winter. I hope come spring the painting process will begin. By that time if all goes as planned the car will be drivable. Since I sacrificed the radiator for the 67 wagon I had the manual trans one from the wagon recored to use in the 442. Wow price was 580 bucks, it is a 3 row, and was wondering if new cores were even available, well my wallet says that they are at least for now.
There is a chill in the air, a bit early for NJ, but since Mother Nature is giving me a hint of what is to come I figured it is time to move the 442 inside. Its a great feeling to get it out from under the tarps in the yard. Since the space is kinda tight and the engine is together I guess I should just put it where it belongs so that will be the 1st job now.
