Thx Ace this is why I ask the pros...I think this swap would be more than I could handle..so I might have to pay to have it installed. Any links to good pcm flash and wiring guy?? Seen guys on ebay but not sure who's good.

 

There's quite a few options.

www.speartech.com John is THE best, but you pay the highest price.
He's awesome for tech support before and after the work is done. Highest rated everywhere.

www.wait4me.com He's had good reviews, but after 4 phone calls and
never a call back, that proved he lived up to his websites name.

www.lsx-harness.com This is whom I used most recently.
They were inexpensive and had some good reviews on their work.
Half the price of Speartech. I can't give you my review until my engine is running.

www.lt1swap.com is another guy like Gary posted who has shared a WEALTH of free info.

Gary is da man, braving it on his own.
I would have tried, but I didn't feel confident enough.

 

The easiest way to re-do a harness is label all the plugs, remove it from the motor, unwrap 100ft of electrical tape, lay it out where you have lots of room.
The yellow stuff on the link can be removed. Some areas have stricter emission requirements, so I know things like the charcoal canister purge, egr, etc can be kept if necessary. But less stuff = less stuff to go wrong. Get rid of what's not needed.

 

I've seen others for a similar price. I dont see how they do it for that much with all the little stuff. As Aces pointed out, I would expect another $1000 in small parts on top of that price.
As for wiring/ecu, I had wait4me do my harness/ecu corvette, LT1swap did the ecu only on the 442. I was ok with both. LT1swap was really helpful with some custom aspects.

 

Latest project.
Trying to add a higher pulse VSS to get cruise control working better.
I bought a $8 VSS reluctor off ebay, but there's not enough room in the T10 case behind the speedo gear to add it.
But then I noticed a BIG reluctor already there, the reverse gear. Looking to mod the tailstock to add an O ring or screw mounted VSS.
DSCN0411.jpg

 

Thanks guys for the heads up, well I better save my pennies, and put I little more into my car swap fund.

 

Ok I got it now! Thanks Gary

 

Will my driveshaft have to be modified or adjusted? I am going from olds30/th350 tranny and putting in 5.3 lm7 with 4l60e

 

Does your th350 have a dual BOP/Chevy bolt pattern?
1" setback plates will move the trans forward about 1/4". There are plates (Hooker?) the put the trans in original position too. Either way, you should be able to use the original driveshaft.
You must check your driveline angles. Olds set everything up pretty flat. My LM7 ended up angled down. I needed to adjust the rear.

 

Not sure let me check.....thanks for info Gary, how's your car running by the way?? How does the power/torque feel

 

It's just plain fun to drive.......no complaints. I put almost 2000 miles on it over the summer. I am adding the vss to the trans to get the DBW cruise control to work over the winter.
The torque band of the sfi 5.3 is great. Even with the 2.73 rear, I shift into 4th and leave it there down to 1000rpm. It pulls great from there.
On the few occasions I've really revved it, it did seem to run out of hp over 6000rpm, but the LM7 cams are a bit weak there. If you're worried about that get an LS1 cam or LS6 cam and springs. Used LS1 cams are pretty much free though.

 

Update, I added a little aluminum to the case for the VSS bung. Drilled for a 1/4" NPT plug where the reverse gear rides, then tapped the brass plug for the VSS.
DSCN0443.jpg

And picked up a 26 splinr disk for the T10. Nice weather here, might try to swap the trans this weekend.

DSCN0448.jpg

 

hey Gary update took the 03 engine back and got an 02 5.3 out of tahoe. The 03 engine was out of silverado and had the 4.8. So got my ecu flashed and wiring complete. Dropped car of at my buddys shop this past Thursday. Did you change the radiator on your car? I have the f-body water pump can I use my truck accessories like the alternator and p/s pump/ If so do they need to be modified. The guy doing my swap did one one his cutlass but used the truck take and fab his own mount plates so his sits kind of high..

 

The 4 core 455 radiator is huge and works great. The stock hoses were even a good fit.
The only mod to the truck accessories is a smaller power steering pump pulley to clear the steering box. And I relocated the AC compressor from Classic Air with their bracket. If you're using the truck accessories you'll want the truck water pump and tensioner for correct spacing.
I used an LS1 intake for hood clearance, but since then seen a few A body swaps that used the stock truck intake. The truck intake is kinda ugly but actually makes more torque.

 

The T10 experiment continues. I cut a new mounting plate that relocates the shifter about 3/8" to the rear and left. Hoping there wont be any interference issues. The 82/83 f body T10 has the speedo output right ehere the early T10/Muncie shift rods run. Fortunately, I already had the offset speedo adapter.
I was able to reuse the 3/4 and reverse rods. But I had to buy a $10 strait rod off ebay and use a torch to bend it between the speedo output and reverse lever boss.
It's tight in there but it fits and shifts.
DSCN0453.jpg

DSCN0455.jpg

 

The T10 is in. Launching with the T10 3.42 1st gear is much nicer than the Muncies 2.6 1st (running a 2.73 rear). The 1st/2nd spacing is noticably different but the other gears feel about the same.
No more leaks from the Muncie. It will be good not to have newspapers on the floor any more.
Sill working on the speed sensor. The ecu was not picking up the signal with VSS/reluctor (reverse gear) spacing at 0.100". Manufacturer spec is at 0.025" so I'll crank it in a little farther and test drive again.
Oh and the old muncie didn't have the reverse light switch, this one does. Mot a big deal, but I wired it for reverse lights, might as well use it.

 

We have success with the VSS. I cranked it down to 0.020" gap from the reluctor and it's reading a speed now. I have to have the ecu reprogrammed for a 39 tooth reluctor. Right now the ecu is maxed out at 158mph at around 20 mph.
After I get the ecu back, I'll try the cruise control.

 

Major success on cruise control. The VSS is reading correctly from the reverse gear reluctor.
And the cruise control engages and runs smoothly now. Releases when switched off or brakes engaged.
Still have a minor issue with DBW throttle body hanging when gas pedal is released and clutch engaged.

 

cruise sounds nice gary anytime you want to drop by and LSx my olds LMK

 

I'm getting pretty good at this, beginning to think I could knock out a swap in a weekend.

 

A few questions if you don't mind-

1. Where did you get your A/C kit from.....I did not see it on Classic Air

2. On the caprice tank fuel fill, did you use the vent hose (hose above filler neck) and what did you use to extend the filler neck up to the bumper?

3. What fittings did you use on the caprice sending unit?

4. What pitman arm did you use with the jeep box?
Thanks in advance!

 

1. It's their universal kit with the following parts swapped, serpentine belt sanden compressor pulley, Kwik braket (truck), "red dot" heater control valve (keeps the heat/cold lever correct), and trinary switch to control the compressor and fans. Great company to work with.

2. I cut off the 72 Olds neck, added afill vent fitting and bought a 12" piece of fuel fill hose (1 1/2"?) to join them.

3. The 3/8" quick discoonect to -6AN on the fuel outlet. A Dorman 5/16" GM quick disconnect to 5/16 barb for return.

4. I used the cutlass pitman arm on the jeep box.

 

did you use 6an all the way up to the rail? where did you get the vent fitting?

 

ahh sorry one more (for now).....do you have a part number on the fuel pump/sending unit you used?

 

Quick disconnect to -6 AN. Stainless hose to the 02 vette filter/regulatoe. 3/8" hardline to the motor, stainless flex to the rail. If I was going to do it again, I would have bought one of the nylon line kits used on OEM car applications.
I routed the vent to the vapor condensor using 5/16" hose and just vented that through a furl filter.
The fuel level sender from the caprice tank is compatible with the original gauge. Racetronix make a high pressure fuel pump with intank wiring hookup. Link below. Mine came with the intanks harness, be sure to get that. The original intank wiring had a habit of burning up.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...%2D004&eq=&Tp=

 

I see you had a picture of the fuel filter as a breather, but what about that vent above the fillerneck? is it not necessary to use that if you have a breather on the 5/16 line?

 

I tried plugging the vent that goes to the fillerneck on the caprice tank but that resulted in fuel sloshing back and slow fill ups. I drilled a hole in the cutlass neck near the gas cap and put in an AN bulkhead fitting connected to the fill vent hose. Now it fuels up much faster.
DSCN0311.jpg

 

ahhh i gotcha now.....thanks! can you tell what i am doing this weekend?

 

I saw the ansewer to my question a few replys up thanks. Really cool swap. I just got my project running last week and my gas mileage sucks big time. I had considered this swap cuss my buddy had a wrecked tahoe with everything still in it but as I can tell by this awsome thread this swap is absolutley not for the faint of heart. I previously owned a 03 silverado and the gas was great compared to my 350.

 

Funny you should ask that. I was just checking on that. With the 1" setback mounts, the trans will be 1/4 - 1/2" forward. Usually not an issue. However, mine had a GM 10 bolt rear, moving the driveshaft back another 1/2". Again, alone usually not much of an issue. My driveshaft came up 1/2" shorter than the spec for a muncie car. Combine all those and add in the stock yoke on these cars is only 5" long, I found the foeward end of the yoke did not extend all the way through the trans tail bushing, big problem.
I just ordered a new driveshaft 1" longer than stock and the yoke is a little longer too from the guys below. Measure the amount of yoke extending out of the trans. If it's more than 1", consider getting a new one.
http://southwestspeed.com/

 

[QUOTE=garys 68;418698]Funny you should ask that. I was just checking on that. With the 1" setback mounts, the trans will be 1/4 - 1/2" forward. Usually not an issue. However, mine had a GM 10 bolt rear, moving the driveshaft back another 1/2". Again, alone usually not much of an issue. My driveshaft came up 1/2" shorter than the spec for a muncie car. Combine all those and add in the stock yoke on these cars is only 5" long,


Thus new custom length drive shaft = $$$?? . Glad I asked again. I was thinking to my self "Everyone is asking about different things
I wonder what gary used for a drive shaft??"

 

You can have yours modified. But to lengthen, you're usually better off ordering custom. Mine was about $175. Upgrades like TH400 yokes, special length yokes, 1350 U joints will add a few bucks, but not much.

 

175 is not bad at all. I was thinking another 3 to 4 hundred For a custom length. For doing such a pain in the but swap you sure make it look easy and cheap.

 

You can have yours modified too. Locally a tube was $70, labor about the same. I wanted a slightly longer yoke, that was going to be $50. So buying new under $200 was an easy choice.

 

A no brainer.

 

Update, had a problem with the T10 coming out of gear in 4th after the rebuild. The input shaft engagement teeth looked good when I rebuilt (pic in earlier post). The shift forks showed almost no wear.
DSCN0487.jpg

And the sliders really didn't show much wear.
DSCN0485.jpg

But about the only thing that causes that are bad sliders. So, out came the trans last weekend and new torque lock sliders put on. Their internal splines are contoured to hold the engagement teeth.
DSCN0491.jpg

While I was under there, I took another look at the driveshaft. There was nearly 2" of yoke showing from the back of the trans. When I took some measurement, I discovered the front of the yoke was riding inside the tail bushing. A quick look showed a wear line in the bushing and on the yoke.
A 57 1/2" driveshaft ordered (it's about 1 3/8" longer than the one that came with the car). The yoke is also longer, 5 1/2" vs the original 5".
DSCN0490.jpg

And a new bushing and seal pressed on the trans.
DSCN0489.jpg

 

Driveshaft installed with about 3/4" of the yoke exposed. THe new torque lock sliders are holding perfectly. Now my major issue is a whisle from the top of the drivers side window at hiway speed.
DSCN0492.jpg

 

That made me chuckle. Looking really good over there, you make me want to do an LS, too bad my motor was just built...

 

Well I got rid of the rattle from the chrome trim ring on the shifter boot. A little shrink tubing was suggested by someone here. Just trying to get it perfect, for me anyway.

 

OK, I just discovered my favorite aspect of this car. When I got the Classic Auto Air the AC only operated when it was blowing through the vents only, or through the heat/defrost ports. When I put it together, I set it up so defrost (AC enable) worked with both vents and defrost/heat vents working. I would rarely drive it in the winter where defrost would be needed.
It's absolute bliss driving on 105 degrees days in shorts and flip flops with cold air blowing at my feet, through the vents, and even over the top with the defrost ducts.