'72 Cutlass Supreme Restoration

Old October 5th, 2010, 12:15 PM
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That's how pathetic the metal was after blasting.
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Old October 6th, 2010, 06:25 AM
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Where can I find concourse type Delco shocks in the orig gray color? I see ILT has them for $80 and $90 each, but then I see Fusick has what appears to be (from the pics at least) 'regular' Delco shocks @ $30 each.
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Old October 6th, 2010, 06:34 AM
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I'm not sure they would qualify as concourse, but Rob had a good solution here: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ancements.html
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Old October 6th, 2010, 04:02 PM
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I painted my newer shocks gray as well. If you want the original style i think inline tube sells them.


Last edited by oldzzy; October 6th, 2010 at 04:10 PM.
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Old October 7th, 2010, 04:10 PM
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ILT's spiral Delco version are made in Asia. I confirmed that with them. I would much rather put my ugly yellow/blue Hotchkis Bilsteins on instead of Asian made air shocks.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 08:48 PM
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I found a local baking soda blasting shop, and am taking my almost gutted rear end in soon to get blasted. Should be much easier to clean inside also if anything gets in there. I believe it is water soluble stuff they use (that particular media anyway). They also have other media type, can adjust PSI, and do not use sand at all.

Have not 100% decided on powdercoating yet. I still cannot get the pinion races out. Will the powdercoat oven warp them even more, and make them even harder to get out?

What color were these rear ends originally? All black, or bare cast iron center/cover with black axle tubes?

Last edited by oldzy; October 8th, 2010 at 08:54 PM.
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Old October 17th, 2010, 11:57 PM
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Some powdercoated frame pics. Not as nice as I expected. Several bare (4 points in particular where frame was sitting obviously) and rough spots that need to be touched up. I also see rust inside some holes. I thought it was dipped and all that crap dissolved, then zinc dipped. Oh well. guess not. I guess I can't complain too much, as it was cheaper than normal (friend of a friend thing).















Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
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Old October 18th, 2010, 05:52 AM
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Looks good! There might be a few spots your not happy with but, it now has a rock hard finish to it that is better than the factory did it. Plus no one is going to probably see those spots when the body is back on the frame. Keep up the good work!
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Old October 18th, 2010, 12:06 PM
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Wow - great work!
Just dab some POR15 ont he bare areas and it will not rust.
The way it turned out was a LOT better than the factory finish.
There is special paint that is "Delco shock gray" - Firewheel classics sells it, but other places do also. Very close to Rustoleum charcoal gray.
Keep it up!
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Old October 25th, 2010, 11:55 AM
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Engine pulled.







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Old October 25th, 2010, 12:24 PM
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...........

Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
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Old October 29th, 2010, 01:47 PM
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You think your trunk floor is bad?







Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Old October 29th, 2010, 02:33 PM
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I feel your pain when I see that trunk pan. Ouch. Have you removed the carpet yet?
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Old October 29th, 2010, 02:35 PM
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Nope, not yet. I think I am more scared about taking the vinyl top off.
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Old October 29th, 2010, 04:22 PM
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Are these bearing caps on the right way? I drew a little diagram before removing, but did not mention orientation of the housing. Doh.

I had the entire rear end powdercoated today. Has a bunch of acne, and remaining oil inside is now all 'gummy'. Better than nothing though.



Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Old October 30th, 2010, 05:55 PM
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Powdercoated rear end with acne. Looks a little too glossy to me. Not sure why, everything was done semi-gloss and the rear backing plates look less glossy.





Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Old October 30th, 2010, 05:59 PM
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Backing plates from 2blu..






My ratty rear bumper.


Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:50 PM.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 04:20 PM
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......

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Old November 6th, 2010, 08:25 PM
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Started ripping apart the dash - oh so fun. A large mirror helped to see the 6 or so speed type nuts. Of course, pulling things off, something always breaks. ie. plastic parts. I also forgot just how much I messed with the wires over the past 20 years - what a mess.



Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
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Old November 14th, 2010, 10:54 PM
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.....

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Old November 16th, 2010, 10:01 PM
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Anyone know how to safely remove these 8 plastic pieces? I see they sell replacements, but I see no mention of how to remove/replace. I want to get these powdercoated, so I need to remove the plastic somehow. At the worst, I will have to paint them.





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Old November 17th, 2010, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by oldzy View Post
Anyone know how to safely remove these 8 plastic pieces? I see they sell replacements, but I see no mention of how to remove/replace. I want to get these powdercoated, so I need to remove the plastic somehow. At the worst, I will have to paint them.
I would drill those rivets out, or grind the backs off of them if you're worried about damaging the plastic, then blind rivet the retainer deals back on.
What does the place that sell them recommend for fastening?
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Old November 19th, 2010, 01:14 PM
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Haven't checked with Fusick yet on how they are installed.

Last edited by oldzy; November 20th, 2010 at 01:41 PM.
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Old November 20th, 2010, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by oldzy View Post
Anyone know how to safely remove these 8 plastic pieces? I see they sell replacements, but I see no mention of how to remove/replace. I want to get these powder coated, so I need to remove the plastic somehow. At the worst, I will have to paint them.




I powder coated most of my parts during my restoration. When it came to these, I just hit mine with Eastwood's Rust Inhibitor and a coat of Eastwood's Epoxy Chassis Black. You can just about tell the difference and the Chassis black holds up well.

Dave

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Old November 20th, 2010, 01:39 PM
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Picked up some GW rear frame braces. I like the looks of them better than the Hotchkis ones I have now b/c the bolt holes do not seem to 'protrude' as much as the Hotchkis. The bolts on the Hotchkis braces get very close if not touching the mufflers.




Power steering stuff back from Chip @ powersteering.com. Rebuild/fast ratio/extreme detailing.








Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:52 PM.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 06:36 AM
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Nice progress, Oldzy! You have a big project going and also the right amount of patience and determination to see it through completion.
Keep up the great work!
I like the way your steering stuff turned out - I will probably send my set to Chip, also next year some time.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 07:56 AM
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Great thread with excellent pictures. I'm going to follow the progress.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 05:34 PM
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Oh my, first thing mounted to the frame.

You can still see the 'dry' spot on the frame to the right of the gearbox. I did spray it a bit with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black, but it was pretty cold out. I thought it would it turn out a bit better but oh well. At least I covered most if not all (that I could see) of the bare spots the powdercoater forgot to do.





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Old November 23rd, 2010, 03:07 AM
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I'm tossing up weather to powder coat or go the POR-15 route and spend the extra money else were, but POR-15 only comes in Black and I was thinking Dark Grey.

Your chassis looks great

How did you get your body off and going to get it back on?
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Old November 23rd, 2010, 06:04 AM
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I must commend you on the fine job you have been doing. I only wish I had the patience and resources to do that to my car. Keep the pictures coming. You are going to have a beautiful car when your done.
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Old November 23rd, 2010, 06:51 PM
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Most of the fuel/vapor lines connected. It was not as easy as I thought it would be (even on a bare frame!) b/c either they are out of spec a bit, or I did not install them right. See how the two gray caps touch each other in the 1st pic. There should be a few inch at least gap per pics in the assembly manual.

Also, at the very back, it says there is a hole to mount a clip for the 3/8" fuel line, but the only hole nearby is a few inches away (circled in red).

Any suggestions? Try to wiggle lines further rear? tx

















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Old November 23rd, 2010, 07:24 PM
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Perhaps it is this hole to use (in pink). They don't even give the right clips anyway, at least not the one that is left (for a 3/8 and 5/16" line) in a t-type position. And this the kit from Fusick and ILT (both the same).


Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:53 PM.
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Old November 24th, 2010, 12:22 AM
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Does this help?
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg
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Old November 24th, 2010, 05:14 AM
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Yep, thx.

Are those original lines?
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Old November 25th, 2010, 04:55 PM
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You must have a ton of patience!! This is a huge project and you are doing everything the way it should be done - no shortcuts. Good for you!!

Wayne
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Old November 25th, 2010, 07:29 PM
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LOL, not really, I was cursing inlinetube earlier this evening. The main fuel line ends touch each other (almost certain my originals had a inch or so gap in between), and I had a hard time squeezing a 2" or so length of 3/8" rubber hose in. Hopefully, it is not an issue. Pics below.





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Old November 30th, 2010, 06:42 PM
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Hotchkis rear control arms with Hotchkis HPS1000 (Bilstein) circus colored shocks. I am hoping my rear end is ready within a few weeks. I should also have my new Edelbrock rear frame braces in a few days (unlikely going to use the Hotchkis or Global West ones b/c I no like the bolts).


Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:53 PM.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 03:38 PM
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Rear end half done...


Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:54 PM.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 04:26 PM
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Half done, but not half assed Looks great!
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Old December 9th, 2010, 05:15 PM
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Great thread! Keep it up...this will be fun to watch all winter.
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