'72 Cutlass Supreme Restoration
February 11th, 2011, 04:28 PM
#121
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Not much really interesting, but here is a pic of the new heavy duty Hotchkis billet 7075 aluminum front 1 3/8" sway bar mounts. Also a pic of the vapor/charcoal canister bracket I acquired from a member here recently that I just had powdercoated.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:01 PM.
February 17th, 2011, 08:06 PM
#123
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Front Disc Backing Plates and Caliper Brackets back from Steve Gregori @ brakeboosters.com. Still has a bit of an unsightly dent on the bottom of one of the backing plates.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:01 PM.
February 17th, 2011, 08:23 PM
#124
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Crude painting methods of spindles and steering arms using Cast Blast. New Moog tie rods, center link, and idler arm are next.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
February 17th, 2011, 09:15 PM
#125
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Wow, I just sent my backing plates and caliper brackets to Steve for replating this week, and I was going to take my spindle and steering arms to a shop for blasting before painting them grey. I even had a similar dent in one of my backing plates. Kinda freaky man!
Keep up the good work, it motivates me to do the same on mine.
Keep up the good work, it motivates me to do the same on mine.
Last edited by O's_Car; February 17th, 2011 at 09:17 PM.
March 19th, 2011, 04:30 PM
#127
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Springs and spindles finally installed. Nothing is torqued yet.
Also have not yet fixed the rear wallowed out frame ear mount hole on the drivers side lower control arm. Will likely tack weld a washer to the outside of the mount later on.
Also have not yet fixed the rear wallowed out frame ear mount hole on the drivers side lower control arm. Will likely tack weld a washer to the outside of the mount later on.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
March 21st, 2011, 06:42 PM
#129
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Thx. Now I am trying to figure out the best way to address this 'gap' issue. Obviously this mount was stressed quite a bit, as the rearmost hole is wallowed out as well.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
March 22nd, 2011, 06:46 PM
#130
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Torqued spindle castle nuts to ~43 and 73ft lbs top and bottom, and mounted the backing plate/caliper bracket/steering arm (all from '2blu442' BTW) on the pass. side. The top aftermarket spindle bolt has a thick head on it... hoping it clears the rotor fine, as I cannot recall the gap between inside of rotor and backing plate. I was going to have the original bolts replated, but do not really trust 40 year old bolts, especially ones that need to be torqued to 90+ ft lbs.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
June 3rd, 2011, 08:33 PM
#133
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Not much lately. These are about the latest pics, hope to have the front end done within a few weeks, and working on the drivetrain.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
June 14th, 2011, 07:45 PM
#134
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Not much done recently other than my tie rods (too long) don't fit the fancy Hotchkis adj. hex sleeves.
Picked up a set of Rear LCA Currectrac's by Currie. Still not sure if will be using the huge beefy steel Hotchkis ones I have on there now (poly on both ends), or these. These Currectrac's weigh exactly 7.22lbs each. Of course they are purty and all, plus being solid aluminum. Got them directly from Currie.
One of the main reasons I got these ones, is that the Hotchkis arms are wide and hit the axle ears (which forbids any kind of decent 'drooping' to install springs for example). I am 'assuming' these ones won't have that issue since they are so much thinner. But then there is the issue of sway bar fitment.
Picked up a set of Rear LCA Currectrac's by Currie. Still not sure if will be using the huge beefy steel Hotchkis ones I have on there now (poly on both ends), or these. These Currectrac's weigh exactly 7.22lbs each. Of course they are purty and all, plus being solid aluminum. Got them directly from Currie.
One of the main reasons I got these ones, is that the Hotchkis arms are wide and hit the axle ears (which forbids any kind of decent 'drooping' to install springs for example). I am 'assuming' these ones won't have that issue since they are so much thinner. But then there is the issue of sway bar fitment.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
June 19th, 2011, 06:09 PM
#136
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Removed rear Hotchkis LCA's and put on Currie Currectrac's. There is a now a gap and the arms are not hitting the axle ear mounts like they did with the Hotchkis arms.
Hotchkis arms
Currectrac arms
Hotchkis arms
Currectrac arms
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
June 23rd, 2011, 11:37 AM
#138
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Thx.
I just ordered another set of tie rods, this time from AC Delco. Reason was that my Moog tie rods did not work properly withe my Hotchkis adj sleeve (last pic below). Rods seemed too long, and the rotor/disc assembly would not straighten out, even after the rods were threaded in as far as they could go.
The AC Delco (the inner rods anyway) seems about 1/4" shorter. Anyway... it was a nice change to see the below stamp on the inner tie rods.
I just ordered another set of tie rods, this time from AC Delco. Reason was that my Moog tie rods did not work properly withe my Hotchkis adj sleeve (last pic below). Rods seemed too long, and the rotor/disc assembly would not straighten out, even after the rods were threaded in as far as they could go.
The AC Delco (the inner rods anyway) seems about 1/4" shorter. Anyway... it was a nice change to see the below stamp on the inner tie rods.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:05 PM.
June 23rd, 2011, 11:39 AM
#139
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So... if these Delco tie rods work... then I will have a extra set of new inner/outer tie rods that I will prob sell. I cleaned and primered them all, then sprayed with Seymour Cast Blast.
June 23rd, 2011, 08:12 PM
#140
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Intake (from 2blu4u) bead blasted and painted with Fusick Gold. I don't know... it looks a little pale/flat in person. Flash is on in pics as well.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:05 PM.
June 25th, 2011, 06:35 PM
#141
this is not my car lol
Join Date: Feb 2009
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wow what a build! impressive parts list..
FYI the moog tie rods are always too long, and have to be hack sawed to proper length. the secret is running the lock nut onto the tie rod before cuttin. then back off the nut slowly and chase the threads.
keep up the great job!
FYI the moog tie rods are always too long, and have to be hack sawed to proper length. the secret is running the lock nut onto the tie rod before cuttin. then back off the nut slowly and chase the threads.
keep up the great job!
June 26th, 2011, 05:10 PM
#142
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Thanks.
Here is a pic of the thermo housing I just painted with Fusick Gold. You can see what I was talking about in re to the 'pale' look of the intake. The machine shop did it, and looks like they just gave it a light dusting of paint. If there can be that much variation in the turnout... I am actually not certain what the best method is. Several coats... several 'light' coats... a few heavy coats, distance, etc.
Here is a pic of the thermo housing I just painted with Fusick Gold. You can see what I was talking about in re to the 'pale' look of the intake. The machine shop did it, and looks like they just gave it a light dusting of paint. If there can be that much variation in the turnout... I am actually not certain what the best method is. Several coats... several 'light' coats... a few heavy coats, distance, etc.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:06 PM.
June 28th, 2011, 01:01 PM
#143
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Took a valve cover off as was curious how good or bad it looked like. It looked pretty good, same as did 17 years ago when I rebuilt the engine. Still has the orange/red paint on from the machine shop to keep oil moving (they called it loptik, gloptik or something - can't recall for certain the name).
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:06 PM.
June 28th, 2011, 08:44 PM
#145
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Glyptal, that it, thx.
I drove it quite a bit actually, especially back in the college days when it was my only ride.
However, when I took the intake off for the very first time a few years before rebuilding.... there was this most disgusting odor I cannot even really put into words, and this buildup of black 'stuff'. The car was driven daily all year round (lots of salt here in the winter) for at least 16 years before I got it.
I drove it quite a bit actually, especially back in the college days when it was my only ride.
However, when I took the intake off for the very first time a few years before rebuilding.... there was this most disgusting odor I cannot even really put into words, and this buildup of black 'stuff'. The car was driven daily all year round (lots of salt here in the winter) for at least 16 years before I got it.
July 3rd, 2011, 12:12 AM
#148
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Not great quality, but some rear bumper pics. Bumper is NOS from eBay (one of the 1st things I picked up). Even though NOS, the ear mounts for the tail light housings were out of whack. Had to bend most with a pair of pliers just to get them in. One was inward too much about 1/2".
Tail light/reverse/license lenses are repros, and rear tail housings are originals off eBay that were cleaned up a bit. Reverse/License housings and Tail light rock shields are repros as well. License plate bracket is my original.
Just need to paint the tail light screws black, and put in the 4 red inner tail light things.
powdercoated in flat black (seems 'satin' to me)
Tail light/reverse/license lenses are repros, and rear tail housings are originals off eBay that were cleaned up a bit. Reverse/License housings and Tail light rock shields are repros as well. License plate bracket is my original.
Just need to paint the tail light screws black, and put in the 4 red inner tail light things.
powdercoated in flat black (seems 'satin' to me)
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:07 PM.
July 4th, 2011, 03:56 AM
#150
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Remarkable detailing!!!!!!
A pleasure to peruse this thread when you wake up too early some morning and have a lot of time to really "look" at the pictures. You are going to make your Grandmother proud when her/your Oldsmobile is finished!
A pleasure to peruse this thread when you wake up too early some morning and have a lot of time to really "look" at the pictures. You are going to make your Grandmother proud when her/your Oldsmobile is finished!
July 4th, 2011, 09:26 AM
#151
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Thanks.
As for the body, I am leaving it last. It is badly rusted/rotted, so I am going to prob have some body person come out to see if worth while to fix (the shell - rotted roof in particular), then go from there. If it is not really worth while, then I am going to look for a nice rust free shell.
As for the body, I am leaving it last. It is badly rusted/rotted, so I am going to prob have some body person come out to see if worth while to fix (the shell - rotted roof in particular), then go from there. If it is not really worth while, then I am going to look for a nice rust free shell.
July 4th, 2011, 10:22 AM
#152
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excellent job....so when are you going to do my car ?....I wish I had the time....money.....and the place to do mine , but all I can do is keep it from rusting till I either give it to my kid some day or sell it
....I wish I had the time....money.....and the place to do mine , but all I can do is keep it from rusting till I either give it to my kid some day or sell it
July 20th, 2011, 02:33 PM
#153
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Picked up a gaggle of S/S valves (and bronze guides) from 'thevalveguy' off eBay (std. and W31 size valves). Got both sets just in case I decide not to have the bigger valves put in for whatever reason. Can't do much though head wise right now, since I don't have a cam in hand, springs, etc. The plan was to have the heads done by BTR Performance in Rochester, NY, as I am not convinced my local machine shop is a big Olds guy.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:07 PM.
August 10th, 2011, 01:14 PM
#155
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Slowly starting to accumulate some engine parts $ permitting. Picked up my custom ground hyd. roller cam (from BTR Performance), and Harland Sharp pedestal mount roller rockers, as well as BTR's max perf. book.
This roller related stuff is expensive. Roller lifters and pistons are next. I forgot that I posted a question over @ Comp Cams forums asking whether these roller cores were made in the USA. They replied that they were. Will have to take their word for it. Just a bonus if true though.
This roller related stuff is expensive. Roller lifters and pistons are next. I forgot that I posted a question over @ Comp Cams forums asking whether these roller cores were made in the USA. They replied that they were. Will have to take their word for it. Just a bonus if true though.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 10:07 PM.
August 10th, 2011, 01:38 PM
#156
Nice detail work Oldzy! Keep the pics coming.
I would be nice to find some NOS bumpers for my 71 too, don't want to buy the chinesium stuff either.
Pretty sure that all comp cams items are made in the USA. That's the only brand I have been using for 20+ years now.
I would be nice to find some NOS bumpers for my 71 too, don't want to buy the chinesium stuff either.
Pretty sure that all comp cams items are made in the USA. That's the only brand I have been using for 20+ years now.
August 11th, 2011, 08:18 PM
#157
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Thx.
There is a fellow local to me with a NOS 71-72 rear bumper (with cutouts though). He is also a member here. I lucked out finding that NOS one above. It was even shipped in its original GM wrapping (with other padding wrapped around it of course).
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=DSC00548.jpg
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=DSC00557.jpg
There is a fellow local to me with a NOS 71-72 rear bumper (with cutouts though). He is also a member here. I lucked out finding that NOS one above. It was even shipped in its original GM wrapping (with other padding wrapped around it of course).
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=DSC00548.jpg
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=DSC00557.jpg
September 2nd, 2011, 08:17 AM
#159
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Oldzy - I'm starting a 72 442 from the south. In need of a pair of bumpers.....any idea what he wants for his rear nos?
Do you have his contact number or user name on here?
Thx
Ps I'm just east of you near Oshawa, awesome work, I've been following the thread. How much you figure you have in the project thus far?
Do you have his contact number or user name on here?
Thx
Ps I'm just east of you near Oshawa, awesome work, I've been following the thread. How much you figure you have in the project thus far?
September 2nd, 2011, 07:21 PM
#160
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No idea on the price unfortunately.
His uname here is 'madd442' (https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...s/madd442.html)
Steve
905-692-0406
Binbrook ,ON
thecutlassguyu@hotmail.com
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt216/THECUTLASSGUY/
As for cost so far... too much. I will have to sit for a while to figure it out.
His uname here is 'madd442' (https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...s/madd442.html)
Steve
905-692-0406
Binbrook ,ON
thecutlassguyu@hotmail.com
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt216/THECUTLASSGUY/
As for cost so far... too much.
I will have to sit for a while to figure it out.
