This is going to be a longg restoration. Money, time, space, etc. etc.

Some starter pics...

Sat here for a year after blowing the trans on the highway.



Moved from spot above (pulled by rear bumper which was big mistake - you can see 1/4 damage in subsequent pics) and sat in this spot for over 5 years.

 

Within the past week... some boring pics.


























I am not sure how this rust hole happened. I blasted the core support and painted it a few times over the years. Rust always comes back though.

 

Looks pretty straight! I hope there's not too much rust under that vinyl top. I've had a couple cars that had very little rust except for under a vinyl top!

I think several of us can relate to limited time and money! Keep the pictures coming though so we can walk through the process with you

John

 

I managed to get the pass. side fender off late tonight. It was not really fun. For one, either factory (or someone did it afterwards), but the bottom of the fender was welded to the rocker (about 4-5mm or so) I had to chisel it off.

It was also pretty nasty under the rocker trim, moisture and such, and the two bolts were very hard to get out. Bottom part of firewall is all rotted also. Will post more pics tomorrow. I am trying to salvage what I can and need (ie. front control arms, spindles, backing plates, caliper brackets, steering gear box, stuff like that - frame is toast - so is roof pretty much), and put on the new frame.

 

Missed a pic... This is a warning of things to come, LOL.

 

My front seats are prob worth more than the whole car

 

This will make a great car. I love 72 Supremes. I have had two of them. Just take you time, do it right and walk away sometimes when you get discouraged. I am not surprised by the rust under the vinyl top when you said it sat outside for 5 years. Keep us up to date.

 

Thx. I am only giving the rust/roof etc. related issues every chance to be fixed b/c it was my grandmothers car. I have had it for 20 years now. If it were not sentimental, I would have scrapped it long ago, and looked for another shell (preferably a 442) instead.

 

looking good!

Mine sat outside broken for a couple of years as well and I was also suprised how quickly things deteriorated.

keep at it andf keep the pics coming!

 

Hey,
Mine didn't happen overnight either.I just kept at it.If you need those front lower bodymount towers on the firewall,I should still have some.I had a few pairs that were real nice,and had the lower fender mounts on the sides.

 

So this is the one you were talking with me about!
Looks like a good project - straight anyway. The roof will be challenging, but many have dealt with them.
Great before pictures and i do see some progress. It will be slow, but most are.
Keep up the good work and take breaks when needed.
The interior looks pretty good sans the carpet. Any monsters lurking about under there??
BTW, why the wheel spacers in the front?

 

Oh.... the poor old thing! Glad you're gonna restore her. I love the 72's!! She'll be beautiful again one day!

 

Some more pics. In re to the front spacers, I had them on b/c the front tires would rub against things on the inside.




Rotted









More rotted stuff. The bottom of the fender was rotted also, and also around the bottom edges underneath the trim molding. You can see the bolt/nut left still there on the bottom left. I also broke off the head of the bolt holding the fender when you open the door. Will have to drill the rest out.

 

Front end out today. All my wires although good 5 years ago were really bad after all that time sitting outside. Most were chewed away by critters. On a related note, how do the wire harness(es) pop off the firewall? Appears you have to pry it up?

 

You're a brave man! What's up with the frame wrapped up! Did you get a replacement? Keep up the dedicated work!

 

It is a southern frame that I got around 13 years ago from a local Olds guy. I had it blasted and primered. I then POR-15'ed it by brush shortly after (it was then that I realized just how nasty POR-15 was to the skin ) It then sat out in a backyard for those 13 years exposed to the sun. The POR-15 faded off completely (with the odd dull black spot still visible) and left the primer intact. Not a spot of rust came out during that time.

I then had a friend who works in a powdercoating shop do it again late last year. He zinced and powedercoated it (I am assuming it was dipped before hand but not 100% sure), then wrapped it up in certain sports so it wouldn't get all marked up during transport. When I get my stands/milk cartons to raise it up a bit, I will then remove the foam wrapping.

EDIT: Yes, it is a replacement The one on the car is shot. I recall years ago when the frame completely broke in half on both sides under the rear wheel well. That was fun. Prob explains why the body is a bit out of whack/contour/alignment.

 

nice car man good luck fixing it up

 

Thx.

BTW, it has an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on there now. I will getting rid of it once the engine is pulled in case anyone is interested. One thing though... I could never get the one hole on the intake to line up with the A/C mounting bracket. I am putting a stock intake back on eventually.

 

You have a project on your hands - I will be watching your pictures and posts to see how some things or handled. Which area of Ontario are you from????

 

Yow! Mucho rust...
You do have a challenge there, but you seem to have a good plan.
What are you going to do with the rusted body? Repair with repro parts or cut pieces from a donor car?
Keep the thread going!

Not sure how the harness disconnects - I could barely see mine way down there.

 

I knew my drivers side spindle would not be the greatest. Is it salvageable? The dark spots where the front/outer bearing goes are gouges.

The bearings I had on there were fine, and it seemed to ride ok the last time I changed them (about 17 years ago). I had to change them b/c one day on my way to work, there was a terribly horrifying grinding sound coming from the drivers side wheel. The bearing (can't recall if inner or outer was shot). I drove with that grinding sound for about 20 minutes.











In to the rusted body, don't know yet. I would prefer original donor parts though. ie. an original roof.

 

Should I be looking for a new spindle?

 

Hey, On the harness there is a screw that scres the inner part (fuse block) to the outer side. undo that screw and the connector will release. Good luck with the car

 

Yup. Looks like a bad wheel bearing at some point. A/F/X body spindles are available repro now.

 

I wanted to avoid Taiwan/Chinese or whatever made spindles though. I wonder how good/bad they are.

What about the front backing plate and caliper brackets? Should I just say fuggit and get Taiwanese made stuff b/c they are all new and shiny, and b/c I will unlikely use 14" rims?

 

I'd say stick to American made. I don't like telling people I have chinese parts on a classic oldsmobile. Just my opinion. Even though they're cheaper there's a reason for it.

 

ok, so I need a decent original drivers side spindle (not sure on pass side yet).

I also need a drivers side rear backing plate for my 8.5 10" corporate rear end. I screwed up one of the wheel cylinder mounting holes when I had to chisel the bolt off.

Who gots?

 

Also... what is the trick in getting that big top bolt off above the spindle? The backing plate locking tab seems really tight on the left side of the bolt head.

 

If you can't get behind it with a thin blade screwdriver, then try a sharp chisel to bend the tabs flat...if they're not too rusty! Then either use an impact gun, or if you don't have access to that, you can try heating with a torch...should break loose then! Use a breaker bar or pipe for leverage, and also keep safety in mind!

 

Thx.

If I break the locking tab, does that pretty much mean I should start looking for another backing plate? The tab on the right is no where near the bolt head, it is just the left one that is really tight.

 

No...if I'm not mistaken, that tab is a separate piece! just slips on the bolt before you install it! Probably would want to replace anyway...check Fusick...they probably sell 'em!

 

Looks like you've got a solid project, keep us posted!

 

Nope, the locking tabs are part of the backing plate. I finally got them off. I almost broke the 1st one off. The pass. side came off fairly easy though with flat head screwdriver and hammer.

Engine pulling question to all... a friend lent me one of those engine pulling brackets that mount to the same holes as the carb. I have an Edelbrock Performer alum. intake though. Can an engine/trans be safely lifted with an 'aluminum' intake?

 

Also, how do I disconnect the power steering box shaft? There appears to be a 12-point head bolt holding it on?

EDIT: a 12-point 7/16" socket took it off easy.

 

My lower front control arms are being stubborn. I managed to get the nuts off, but I can't even knock the bolts out with a club hammer. Will have to heat up I guess.

I took the A/C stuff off the firewall. Nice n brand new looking Harrison decal underneath. I also noticed 'YY' in green on the firewall right underneath the A/C gasket seal thing. Any idea what it stands for? thx

 

Unfortunately, this is common when the bolt rusts to the sleeve in the center of the bushing. Be careful with heat. If you apply enough heat to get the bolt loose, you'll set the rubber bushing on fire. What's worked for me is to flood the bolt with penetrating oil from the threaded end. Let that soak then try turning the head of the bolt to break the rust free. Failing that, use a hacksaw between the bushing and the frame tabs to cut the bolt. You might want to upgrade to a sawzall, however.

[/QUOTE]I took the A/C stuff off the firewall. Nice n brand new looking Harrison decal underneath. I also noticed 'YY' in green on the firewall right underneath the A/C gasket seal thing. Any idea what it stands for? thx[/QUOTE]

That's just an assembly line quality stamp.

 

I got one bolt out. Two of the other bolts just 'spin' and the other won't budge yet.

One bolt is obviously stuck on the rubber bushing somewhere, since as I loosen it and let go... the ratchet springs back a bit. As for the other bolt that spins... the mounting part of the frame is warped outwards a bit, so the holes must be not be perfectly straight or something.. So I turn the bolt with a ratchet and bang on the threaded end with a club hammer at the same time... still nothing. Tons of fun.

 

On a related note, my pass. side upper control arm had NO rubber bushings left at all. I always wondered why that side was noisy banging around (metal on metal sound). I assumed it was the fender b/c the lower bracket was loose. Must have been that way for many years.

 

Had my rear backing plates powdercoated. They came out so smoooooth don't you agree.

 

hmm, maybe it's the lighting, but it almost looks like wrinkle paint or cast iron.