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Also BTW---where do you live in CO? I am on the outskirts of Parker and could loan you a cherry picker that will work if need be.
Thanks for the offer! I’m in Loveland, so an hour and change on a good day.
I’m going to have a new boom made that’s about 20” longer, they can drill the holes also. It only needs to survive the lift twice.
Thanks for the offer! I’m in Loveland, so an hour and change on a good day.
I’m going to have a new boom made that’s about 20” longer, they can drill the holes also. It only needs to survive the lift twice.
If the boom is longer, where will that put the lift point ? If its past the wheels, it will tip over ? There's a reason the heavier lift costs more. Think about it.
If the boom is longer, where will that put the lift point ? If its past the wheels, it will tip over ? There's a reason the heavier lift costs more. Think about it.
Valid point, but I’m sure I’ll feel it get tippy once it’s an inch above the motor mounts.
I just came across your thread. You might check if the extra holes in the door line up with power door locks. They were vacuum operated in 1968. Have you checked the vin number on the transmission with the car? Does the vin look correct for a 442, not just a Cutlass?
One more thing, is the radiator a 4 row? If so can you share the codes on the tanks so we can help key out if its the original one? If you decide not to use 4 row tanks with the correct codes are in demand and could go a long way toward paying for an aftermarket one.
Looking through the pictures again. The convertible looks to have the original master cylinder for disc brakes. The 1968 had 4 piston disc calipers. For someone restoring a 1968 to original those too are hard to find parts. Let me ask, does it have the vacuum power trunk release? If it does the key rod with swivel is another tough item to find.
I just came across your thread. You might check if the extra holes in the door line up with power door locks. They were vacuum operated in 1968. Have you checked the vin number on the transmission with the car? Does the vin look correct for a 442, not just a Cutlass?
The trim tag and vin reads out as a Lansing built V8 Cutlass Holiday Coupe, 33687. The trans is a 67 Pontiac.
The trim tag and vin reads out as a Lansing built V8 Cutlass Holiday Coupe, 33687. The trans is a 67 Pontiac.
OK, if you've checked the vin. It was common for the 1968 442's to have trim tags for the Cutlass. What car had the OG transmission? That should be an Olds 442 code.
OK, if you've checked the vin. It was common for the 1968 442's to have trim tags for the Cutlass. What car had the OG transmission? That should be an Olds 442 code.
And there is a vin number stamped on the drivers side of the transmission.
One more thing, is the radiator a 4 row? If so can you share the codes on the tanks so we can help key out if its the original one? If you decide not to use 4 row tanks with the correct codes are in demand and could go a long way toward paying for an aftermarket one.
Looking through the pictures again. The convertible looks to have the original master cylinder for disc brakes. The 1968 had 4 piston disc calipers. For someone restoring a 1968 to original those too are hard to find parts. Let me ask, does it have the vacuum power trunk release? If it does the key rod with swivel is another tough item to find.
The coupe doesn’t have the original radiator but is a 4 row. The vert has a Harrison 4 row with EC, but the motor from that car is the ultra desirable 73, so I assume the rad came from the same car as the motor.
Yes the vert has stock disc brakes. I don’t believe either car had the power trunk release.
OK, if you've checked the vin. It was common for the 1968 442's to have trim tags for the Cutlass. What car had the OG transmission? That should be an Olds 442 code.
Correct, the OG trans is in the convertible. Good point and you just taught me something to boot! The convertible vin is a 34467. I only looked at the trim tag.
Correct, the OG trans is in the convertible. Good point and you just taught me something to boot! The convertible vin is a 34467. I only looked at the trim tag.
If the boom is longer, where will that put the lift point ? If its past the wheels, it will tip over ? There's a reason the heavier lift costs more. Think about it.
I wanted to circle back to this because it’s a good point. The boom fully extended is 50”, the legs are roughly 62” to the same point.
If anyone has a 2ton harbor freight special, it would be cool to know how long the legs are on it for comparison.
The coupe doesn’t have the original radiator but is a 4 row. The vert has a Harrison 4 row with EC, but the motor from that car is the ultra desirable 73, so I assume the rad came from the same car as the motor.
Yes the vert has stock disc brakes. I don’t believe either car had the power trunk release.
A long time coming, almost there now. I was able to pick up a 2 ton hoist with leveler for $50, a steal. It’s been 97 degrees this week, so I was motivated enough to get the new hoist in place of the old and get it hooked up, but I have stuff I need to move behind the car so I can roll it back when I lift it. And that’s gonna suck a little, so I’m going to try and wait til this weekend to move stuff when it’s cooler.
Sub'd
My 68 442 post is just a slightly darker Hugger Orange , of course the previous owner just couldn't repaint the correct Burgundy Mist - and yes he was very thorough (got every inch ORNG !)
Clean-up and reuse this engine or..? What are your plans for it ?
Yes I plan on giving it a once-over to make sure there’s nothing major wrong I see, and cleaning it up and throwing some new gaskets on since I’m thinking of running synthetic oil. I thought about trying to bring it back to stock but it’s been in this configuration for a long time, so I’ll keep the edelbrock intake and chrome valve covers etc.
Been working hard on it, just not posting about it. Got the block cleaned up, looks good. Or at least better than it did in my opinion. Man it’s a lot of work to clean this thing by hand in the garage, I bet have 30 hours into cleaning to prep for paint. It’s not the $35 shipped correct gold color and I’m ok with that.
Pistons are 2264P stamped, so not stock. I don’t see any irregular marks on the cylinders. Lots of soot on them though, which isn’t a surprise considering when I dropped the oil pan, it smelled like gasoline. Running super duper rich.
Hopefully about mid October I’ll be done with this, and have a nice looking freshly sealed engine, and then on to cleaning the engine bay up some.
Props to the nut-and-bolt 7 year resto folks out there.
Nice and straight, as you can see by the quality chroming job. That being said, and since you asked...I'm not much of chrome guy. For my $.02, I'd rather see the original OEM paint. To each his own, and it looks well executed.
