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peter, how did your new aftermarket pan line up to the lip on the rear seat pan? seems like there was a decent lip on the old pan, versus my new pan. the lip is no bigger than the width of the brace itself. seems like there should be another half inch or more of a lip to overlap the two panels. looking at your picture of your drilled spot welds, the lip is wider than the brace. can you snap a picture of how that lined up for you?
Last edited by 65droptop; Jul 18, 2022 at 07:25 PM.
Looking back at my pics…that’s the same amount of ledge that mine had.
The deck went to the edge of the brace and no further.
Are you coming up short?
I did put a number of tacks on top as well just to be safe…but it reached the rear edge of the seat pan.
The original lip coming off my rear seat pan was rotted in the corners, and after drilling spot welds and pulling it apart, it was pretty rough so I cut it off. I planned on using the lip from the one piece floor pan I bought to replace that lip but I guess it’s a little wider than the original more I look at the pics. I’m going to put the pan in and check fit before I cut anymore material. I cut the new pan on the flat side, just before the brace spot welds. I cut the existing trunk about an inch below the turn on the up slope, so I should have some wiggle room. I’m setting it back on the frame before I weld anything, that way I know it’s right.
Slow going for sure.
-Got more of the suspension sorted.
-Starting to wire wheel and remove the paint from the engine im using.(67 400 with A heads)
-got rid of the parts car finally
Just sorted all the bolts, brackets and such for the 400.
Sprayed with Fusicks after some VHT primer.
After it dried it the shine went away and it got really dull. It may have been a little to humid to spray?
Note sure but I’ll give the VC’s another coat on a sunny warm day.
Yay! Got some work done.
The engine is installed and the American Racing Headers fit like a glove...a VERY tight glove. But they don't rub anywhere.
No idea if the steering shaft will complicate things.
Cleaned up the TH400 with a GV unit and gave it a nice coat of aluminum. It's a little bright...but will be OK for me.
Switching to a convertible frame AFTER mocking up this engine and trans in the old car adds a little complexity.
The factory crossmember is so far off from where it needs to be and the GV unit doesn't allow for a factory member without modification anyway.
Started mocking it all up and I think I have the solve.
DOES ANYONE KNOW THE ANGLE OF THE ENGINE AND TRANS IN RELATION TO THE FRAME?
Thanks!
Last edited by Rallye469; Nov 7, 2022 at 07:46 AM.
I'm glad your headers fit. The last set of American Racing headers I installed were on a '66 442 and I had to cut and modify two of the pipes on the right side at the frame.
This is about the tenth time I've seen the cylinder heads on the wrong side
I always heard you put a level on the carb mount surface, it should be level. Usually the engine ends up tilted- a little higher in front. BUT- you don't have your sheet metal attached so that won't work well for you... I wonder if you could put the old tail housing back on trans with original crossmember. Figure out what degree the engine is and duplicate that???
I always heard you put a level on the carb mount surface, it should be level. Usually the engine ends up tilted- a little higher in front. BUT- you don't have your sheet metal attached so that won't work well for you... I wonder if you could put the old tail housing back on trans with original crossmember. Figure out what degree the engine is and duplicate that???
Thank you...and great points.
I was going to take the engine angle I have now and subtract the current frame angle to get it close...
What I'm now going to do is build in a touch of adjustability in the trans mount...so I can raise or lower a little once the body's back on the frame.
Thinking about using the carb mounting pad is a great idea.
I can't say I disagree with you for this build Peter, but be prepared for folks to call it out. It is a real deal 442 engine, you may want to flaunt it and reconsider popping those heads while it's still fairly easy.
I agree that the engine is supposed to be "tilted up a little" in the front as installed. It is to work the air in the heads out of the cooling system. I have some detailed information on irrigation engines, I may be able to prove my point. I'll have a look at it and get back to you.
Originally Posted by Rallye469
I bought this engine assembled.
It irks me that the #'s are in the wrong place as well...but not enough to start popping the heads off.
Last edited by Rocketguy; Nov 8, 2022 at 04:13 PM.
Getting the engine ready for start up!
Distributor, plugs, wires, carb are all on.
Just waiting on the pump to carb fuel line and the coil bracket.
Any comments on what's right or wrong here are welcome.
ALSO...I'm looking for the wire loom piece that sits on the bracket on the left side of engine.
The water pump bypass hose and the lower alternator bracket were on an undressed engine assembly when it was painted.
The bolt at the front of the lift strap is supposed to have an accessory stud.
You should have one more wire harness bracket on the right valve cover.
I'm sure you know this but the plastic plug wire holder is missing from the bracket for the left side plug wires. I'll sent you an NOS one for free if you like.
You need another plug wire clip on the right side (like in the below pic).
If you have power brakes, the hose bracket is missing from the L side valve cover; it's there to keep the hose away from the throttle linkage.
Your plug wires are on wrong. The number one wire is in the wrong place, and they are supposed to cross over the cap like this pic.
Richard, thank you for all the helpful tips.
I love your engine, and the wiring is super clean!
I was following a diagram that put #1 lead on the distributor closest to the firewall on the drivers side...so YOU got that look by putting it up at the front of the motor on the same side?
It definitely looks better than mine.
I'll get ahold of you about the wire loom...I think I have one coming??? But if it's not right I'll be in touch.
As for the bypass hose, I realize it should be painted, but as a driver I know it will begin to fleck off and look ratty so I opted not to paint it.
And this is a manual brake car so no need for the big vacuum line and locating bracket.
You're welcome, and I appreciate your compliments.
I don't know where you got that diagram but always use factory issued literature first.
With the number one piston at TDC compression and the damper mark at zero, the rotor should be pointing toward the no 1 cylinder. That puts the distributor in the correct position and the cap/wires follow.
Look in the CSM on page 13-37, fig 13-76. There's also a pic of the cap and wires on page 12 1.5 of the '65 PIM; it shows how to mount, wire and index the coil as well. While your there, look what it says to do with the trans switch wire
The cap and wires were the same on all A body V8s for years. If you have a '67 CSM there's a pic on page 6B-46 that I find helpful.
The wires after the retaining clips were all in line with the cylinders. I believe one reason for this was so a dealer or service tech could easily pull all the wires, change the plugs at once and then reconnect them.
I say not painting the hose was a good choice. When the paint starts to flake off it looks so crappy, and there's not much you can do with it at that point.
Originally Posted by Rallye469
Richard, thank you for all the helpful tips.
I love your engine, and the wiring is super clean!
I was following a diagram that put #1 lead on the distributor closest to the firewall on the drivers side...so YOU got that look by putting it up at the front of the motor on the same side?
It definitely looks better than mine.
I'll get ahold of you about the wire loom...I think I have one coming??? But if it's not right I'll be in touch.
As for the bypass hose, I realize it should be painted, but as a driver I know it will begin to fleck off and look ratty so I opted not to paint it.
And this is a manual brake car so no need for the big vacuum line and locating bracket.
With the number one piston at TDC compression and the damper mark at zero, the rotor should be pointing toward the no 1 cylinder. That puts the distributor in the correct position and the cap/wires follow.
Do you mean it should physically have the rotor tip pointing at the first spark plug?
Or just that it should point toward the terminal in the cap that leads to the wire that goes to the first cylinder?
I have a feeling it was the first and that's why I have a mess.
I just always did the latter and called it a day.
That's not going to happen unfortunately.
This is a MSD ready to run distributor with an old style cap that I painted black.
(Why they only make them in maroon is beyond me...chevy thing?)
The caps only have 1 locator tab and go on in one position and this is it.
Plus the door is black plastic.
Fired it up tonight!!!
I can’t believe how quickly it started.
I made a little video to show how to start an engine up in a frame as a stand alone unit.
Rallye469, glad to "hear" and see that 67 400E still runs great.Many years ago I bought a 67 CS and made my own 442 clone and as you know your 400E motor was in this 67 before I had built a 455. Lance- DC2x4DRVR wrenched on that motor with me years ago. I'm glad it's all working out for you.
Who knew back when I was watching your build that the particular engine would wind up in my car.
Small world for sure.
I kinda like knowing it’s been around the block so to speak…
Does ANYONE have any good chambered exhaust pictures to share?
Im welding chambered exhaust tail pipes to my pypes system and want to get the angle, length, height right.
I need picts of the tail pipes in relation to the frames and hangers.
Thanks!!!
Had to work the last 17 days straight...but finally got out to the garage this weekend and finish the chassis...for now.
Finished the exhaust off with original 442 tail pipes tack welded on until I have the body and bumpers on to verify placement.
Engine running, suspension done, exhaust on...may have to do some brake line work later.
But time to start on the body!
