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Well did some lookin into those bearings,If I would read directions lol theres a paper in box with them its like a graphite coating or some dry lube? Ya wont remove it I guess
Well did some lookin into those bearings, If I would read directions lol theres a paper in box with them its like a graphite coating or some dry lube? Ya wont remove it I guess
Has anyone tried 455 pistons in a 394? I saw some with a 1.750 compression and a lot of nice features that caught my eye.
No, the pin to crown height is different, I believe.
Besides which the 455 used a pressed in piston pin, where the 394 had a full floating pin which was retained by clips.
Those D.S.S. pistons will work or any with those dimensions. The 1.750 compression height is more popular than the factory height because the pistons sit deep. There’s only a .015 difference in compression height from a 394. I’ll mill a little of the deck, intake, and use thicker gaskets. That’s all that needs to be done. The valve angles are different, but they’re so big and deep it shouldn’t matter.
I’m in the planning phase of my build now. I figured out most of the valve train parts and everything is off the shelf. I’ll spend a bit more on machine work, but I’m more interested in parts availability and not being chained to a few vendors. Rocker Arms Unlimited has a nice roller rocker setup.
Ya jetstar with those pistons for 455 are ya gonna bush the rods? The 394 is full float,might want consider cost anyway got my 394 closer to turn key go zoom,heres a few pics of the beast!
Yes. Most quality after market pistons are bushed. Some are either or. As far as cost is considered the D.S.S pistons along with many others are only a little more than the cast piston replacements and much more advanced than anything Ross sells. His pistons are still using 5/64 rings. The the 750 dollars Ross is charging for a piston designed in the 1980’s is ridiculous. There are many better 455 forged pistons with 1/16 ring packs without skirt coatings between 600-650 dollars. Metric rings would be better but 1/16 are a huge improvement over 5/64 rings. There’s also hypereutectic pistons for stock cast prices with skirt coatings. They have 5/65 rings but are much light than the factory diesel pistons.
I’m going with a custom cam too the symmetrical high performance designs being sold for stock heads don’t make sense. Even Oldsmobile put a tad more duration on the exhaust side. I may go symmetrical if I can get 85% flow from the exhaust. Only time and the flow bench will tell.
Your engine is coming along nicely. A big block Oldsmobile double roller timing chain can be used with three holes added and enlarged center for much less than one for a 394.
I’m going old school hot rodder and figuring out what works. After what I’ve read on other forums, read here, and experienced in person; I’ll never buy anything from Ross or Fusicks.
With a little machine work and patience, off the shelf parts can be used. I’m bushing the lifters to .904 and using stainless steel LS1 8mm valves. It’s not right how Oldsmobile enthusiasts are price gouged by Ross and Fusicks. I’m sure there are more, but I stopped looking for the Oldsmobile gurus after dealing with them. With shipping Fusicks charged me 18 dollars for a 2.99 PCV valve from NAPA for a 425.
Ya I like them bushed rods,I got .30 over from egge machine plus had .921 lifters reground,those new pistons only weigh 3 oz more than stock ones,my 1st try I cam walked had 2 heavy valve springs guy said they work fine ya right plus spin rod bearing so try again ya ross sold me a oil slinger only 1 who had it,fusick kinda high plus some parts no good! I sent specs on that cam not too crazy right?
I like floating pistons too. They make at home installation a lot easier and less friction is alway good too.
I agree with you about Fusicks part quality. The guy I bought my car from had the fuel pump and master cylinder rebuilt by them. I drove it home and stored it for two years. When I went to start it after doing everything required after two years of storage, the fuel pump and master cylinder didn’t work. I learned quickly they were an over priced distributor. It takes time, but if you call the part manufacturers that made replacement parts for them, they are more than happy to help.
Your cam isn’t crazy at all. The stock cam is .451 lift on both lobes with 206 degrees of duration at .050 on the intake and 208 degrees on the exhaust. The LSA is 111 degrees. Your new cam will build a lot of low speed cylinder pressure like the stock cam. I would recommend using 110 leaded and the original valve springs for the initial break in. I’m sorry you were given bad information about cam break in the first time around. It happens to often. Use high quality break in oil from Penn or Amsoil and not just the additive. They both make high quality oil specifically for old engines with flat lifter cams.
Would you mind if I asked how much it cost to regrind the lifters?
I’m glad you’re happy with the quality. Plus the shipping those were over 200 dollars two years ago. Prices like that encourage me to go the the Mopar .904 route. There are several benefits besides availability. Weight, modern lifter technology, pushrod oiling, and the machine shop can get the lifter angles perfect. Make sure you measure pushrod length. The stock ones will be too long after decking and milling. Chrome moly is lighter and stronger than the factory pushrods too.
Ya how do ya measure those pushrods? Never thought of that! Those 394' are a different beast! Theres a few on here built one real nice I took nfo from his build! Anyway ha! Dont think they milled the block! Does that pic show deck milled?
They are different. But not the mystery some make them out to be. I saw the builds and they were great! It helped me get a look inside. The head pictures were awesome!
The pushrods are adjustable for measuring length. You can buy them anywhere. The pushrod is lengthened until the proper lifter preload and then measured. There are YouTube videos that will help you. I recommend a quality dial indicator for the job. You only get one chance to get it right while it’s easy to work on. Check the length on both sides. The deck hasn’t been machined in the pictures. Put a straight edge across them to make sure they’re flat. I learned the hard way. One side is usually higher than the other if not machined. I don’t know about these engines. You could compensate with head gasket thickness if they are available or use a longer pushrod.
Set them on the block so that the head guide studs line up with a hole, and they are centered on the cylinders.
There is a passageway in the block that brings oil up to the rockers thru the head.
Make sure that that passageway lines up with a hole in the head gasket.
July 10th, 2022, 07:45 AM
