Installed headlight dimmer switch and brake light switch. I am waiting for my DS Hood spring to arrive and still no instrument panel lights - only the backlight for the fan switch comes on.... I've replaced a couple bulbs I can reach but no effect.... Any ideas?

 

Some pics of the windshield channel. Hope to get the replacement metal from OPGI by this weekend.

 

Have you rotated the light dimmer switch a few times back and forth, the rheostat may be dirty.

 

I have, i pulled the IP yesterday and found several black bulbs. I replaced all th fuses. No ruling out a bad switch yet. Ive got a continuity tester somewhere.

 

Update - installed a new clutch and bearing. Took the car for a spin for the first time and was pleasantly surprised by the pull this little 330 has. Unfortunately I cannot drive until I get this repaired. Rear window is worse. Looking forward to getting this car back on the road soon. Purchased a radiator, battery, coil, fuel pump and radiator cover and rebuilt the carb. fired up and quickly settled into a nice idle. It appears the car was abandoned because of the fuel pump. Not a bad buy for $400

 

I have seen the same thing on a 1965 Starfire 4 speed car, confirmed to be a factory 4speeder based on cowl tag code. I concluded then that either the throttle linkage was changed at one point due to failure (I suppose that is possible) or somehow it came with the auto piece from the factory.

 

All signs seem to point to the car being a standard 3 on tree originally from the dash pod, steering column, no hole in the floor, z-bar bracket, pedals. Your example at least lends to the possibility that it was put on by the factory although seems improbable right?

 

A 3 on the tree manual would not have had the kickdown switch either, so same possibilities apply?

 

A friend has a theory that it may have been added to utilize an electric overdrive transmission that were available back in the day. He doesn't recall it being an option on the cutlass but he had a 67 GMC Suburban with this setup as a 3 on the tree with Electric Overdrive...


Edit: 3 on the tree

 

Could be a neutral safety switch specific to the 3 on the tree tranny.

My car is a dearborn HD3, and it has a similar round box like that down by the transmission, and its the neutral safety.

 

Neutral safety switches wouldn't be connected to throttle linkage... right?

 

Back up light switch on your trans.

Henry

 

Chevrolet 55-69 and GMC 67-69 was the only GM product line that offered the overdrive manual transmission.

Henry

 

Here is a better picture of the attachment.

 

Very nice findnd great price good luck with her

 

I placed the order for these today to rebuild my fuseblock. ridiculously impossible to find these clips anywhere!!!


GM is aware they made these right?

 

That is the throttle linkage for an automatic with a switch pitch trans. It controls the variable vane torque converter and is a kickdown switch. Someone must have put that on at some time or another. It will work fine just don't connect it electrically. I never heard of anything electrically used on a manual o.d. trans on the throttle linkage.

 

I finished putting the new clips into the old fuseblock. Going to look for the fuse bars next or sandblast the old ones.

 

Nice job on the fusebox
Please make a point of sharing details like where you found these terminals that were so hard to find.

Be sure to check every wire all around inside there too for chafing as they rub against one another.

 

Fuse Clips were found at www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com - To get these clips you actually have to call them and ask for them. They don't sell them through their website. They absolutely fit perfectly into the fuseblock and are an exact match. Be careful to find a very small flat but strong tool to remove the old clips by pressing in the locking tab. My fuseblock has become somewhat brittle and so I actually broke a small divider wall. I glued it back in place and its not noticeable but. After I found a much smaller tool - the clips came out easier. If at all possible a thin (very) flat tool should be used to allow the clips to slide by the small ledge that retains the clips. The clips released rather easily after that. I am planning on getting a clear resin epoxy that I am going to pour over the backside of the fuse clips to prevent any future moisture. I don't expect to have to remove this fuseblock again and I'm going to do a little weatherproofing. I will post pictures as I finish.

 

Here is what I came up with to replace the unavailable buss bars for the 2, 3, 4 linked fuse clips on the fuseblock. As long as I use the correct size wire and produce a solid crimp I feel this will be sufficient for this car.

 

I completed the fuseblock by drilling out the rivets on the buss bar. Clearances are tight but they fit. I may seal all the connections with a rubber/tar sealant to prevent any further corrosion. Used $6 worth of nuts/bolts to complete the job plus the $30 for the clips and shipping.

 

Another picture of the front side

 

Nice job, can't wait to see power through it! Hopefully, solves much of your issues.

 

your bk/or wire has come out of its insulation grip.
I know you probably real worried about that. [not]
The yellow crimp-on terminal should be soldered as well. Glue lined heat shrink over the whole terminal and part of the wire would have been a good idea.

You can take those screws out and de-rust them
I know, it's just an old car.

I don't think sealing the fusebox would be necessary after you stop the influx of water above.

Nice job, and ingenious solution.
Oh and THANKS for sharing the procurement advice on the secret terminals/ fuse grips.

 

Thanks - looking forward to putting this back on the car.


As for the heat shrink - still a possibility as the wire is now bolted on and can be removed rather easily thanks for the advice. As for sealing.. I think you're spot on there. Maybe I'll put a gutter on it just to be safe.

 

This wiring harness does not have the orange wire with black stripe that connects in the transmission fuse position. I suspect now that the car is an original 3 on the tree and the kickdown swirch must have been added later or is the result of a mid production order change. Alas i will never know for sure!

 

Put my rebuilt fuse block on the bench and tested the lights using the headlight switch. All seems to be working properly. When im done sealing the windshield i will put it on the car permanently. I know i need a new turn signal switch but using a test lead showed me the lights turn on when power is applied.