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Nice progress and looking good, but you said "Its been slow going" well soon it will be snow going!
Your not kidding Joe..... I was just watching the weather channel and Boston is suppose to get 40 straight hours of snow. I guess we can't complain too much, we have been very lucky this year.
Well we made it to about 37° yesterday so I threw on the coveralls and started poking around on the old girl. I was finishing up my electrical work. By the end of the day I was at the point where I could connect the battery cables....... Prior to connecting the battery I made sure the ignition was off and the keys were not in the ignition. I connected the positive and then the negative and got a surprise. The starter engaged and the motor started to spin. I am thinking it is either the wires are touching down at the starter or a bad ignition switch. I will check the connections first. I guess another possibility is that the larger stud on the starter spun a little when I attached the battery cable and there is a connection happening in the solenoid. It was getting late and I didn't have it in me to start diagnosing the problem last night. Hopefully it is as simple as that. I will keep you posted. If anyone out there in CO land has any other ideas I am all ears. I am running a Powermaster mini starter and it is only using the purple wire. Like I said hopefully it is something simple like a bad connection.
Your going to have to trouble shoot why there is voltage on the purple wire with the key off. The only time there should be voltage there is when the key is turned to the start position.
I am thinking it is either the wires are touching down at the starter or a bad ignition switch. I will check the connections first. I guess another possibility is that the larger stud on the starter spun a little when I attached the battery cable and there is a connection happening in the solenoid.
OK, so it took me all of 2 minutes to find the problem. The terminal end of the battery cable is oval and the end was just barely touching the nut of the other terminal. A quick run on the bench grinder and it is all good. This was a sigh of relief since I'm not strong in electrical. That's all I really had time for today but I will spend some time this week tidying up the engine compartment. I'll post some pics soon. Thanks again for your input Eric and Joe, it's always appreciated.
Ok so this weekend was a big weekend for the Cutlass, I turned over the motor. It still needs a lot of tuning to get it where I want it. I am not sure if I have a timing issue or need to dial the carb in. It took me a bit of time to get it started. These are the steps that I took to get it going.
- Set the crank 15* BTDC (on a compression Stroke).
- Primed the oil pump.
- Set my distributor so that the rotor was pointing in the direction of the #1 cylinder.
- Primed the carb so there was fuel in both bowls.
At this point I attempted to turn the motor over. It took a few minutes, but after some back fires from the exhaust and the carb, it turned over and idled. Once it was running I was able to tweak the initial timing to 18* BTDC. It was spinning about 1000 to 900 RPM at idle. I then dialed my timing light to 36* and ran the motor to 3000 RPM and it was dead on at 36*. At this point I wanted to get it to idle around 750 RPM or so I started to tweak the the carb. It really did not want to get below the 900 mark at idle and run smooth. I ended up shutting it down because one of my piece of crap tower clamps let go and gave the engine compartment a shower in coolant.
Once I cleaned up the mess I tried to get it started again and couldn't. At this point it was getting late so I started cleaning up. I was hoping to get someones thoughts on my situation. I personally think its a timing issue but I am not expert by any means.....
I am running the MSD ready to run distributor. I am using 2 light blue advance springs with the black bushing. My carb is a Quickfuel HR 780 VS. My compression is somewhere in the 10:1 area. I have a Mondello JM20/22 Extreme cam. I have a set of Mondello aluminum heads. The cylinders are bored 0.060. Any guidance/advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Drew
A bigger cam will not want to idle at factory settings, the 900 RPM idle may be what it needs. It is hard to diagnose what is going on on a thread here. I would say check basics. It is kinda strange to have the backfiring while trying to start. I usually just drop dist in at TDC, and #1 on rotor to cap. While cranking I turn the dist a little to get the sweet spot where she fires and runs then set timing.
Readjust your air/fuel mixture at idle for the highest vacuum, make sure its completely warmed up. Are you running vac advance and is on ported or manifold? Just play with it a little more, you'll get it.
A bigger cam will not want to idle at factory settings, the 900 RPM idle may be what it needs.
Yeah I was thinking the same just wasn't sure where it would end up.
Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac
it is hard to diagnose what is going on on a thread here. I would say check basics. It is kinda strange to have the backfiring while trying to start. I usually just drop dist in at TDC, and #1 on rotor to cap. While cranking I turn the dist a little to get the sweet spot where she fires and runs then set timing.
I may just reset it to TDC and reset the distributor. ...
Readjust your air/fuel mixture at idle for the highest vacuum, make sure its completely warmed up. Are you running vac advance and is on ported or manifold? Just play with it a little more, you'll get it.
Eric, I am not running a vac advance, I ended up locking it out. I figure it will take a few more times to get it in area I want it at. Thanks Eric, appreciate your assistance.
Did you break it in? I know your having problems but you mentioned 3000 rpm and such. It's not suppose to idle at first. Get it started and run it up to 1500 or so.
Did you break it in? I know your having problems but you mentioned 3000 rpm and such. It's not suppose to idle at first. Get it started and run it up to 1500 or so.
Yes this cam was broken in when I originally had the motor built. I'll keep at it....
Roger that, just checking. Set TDC, put the distributer in rotor pointed to #1 then turn the cap CW a little. Set the carb screws out the same and let her rip. Set timing play with the screws a little and adjust idle speed. I guess the point is to get it to idle the best you can and when you put it in gear it shouldn't drop more than 100 or so rpms if so richen it up a little. I wouldn't fuss too much with them screws, tweak them till it idles the best and not too rich or not too lean, after idle they're out of the picture.
Roger that, just checking. Set TDC, put the distributer in rotor pointed to #1 then turn the cap CW a little. Set the carb screws out the same and let her rip. Set timing play with the screws a little and adjust idle speed. I guess the point is to get it to idle the best you can and when you put it in gear it shouldn't drop more than 100 or so rpms if so richen it up a little. I wouldn't fuss too much with them screws, tweak them till it idles the best and not too rich or not too lean, after idle they're out of the picture.
Thank Dan, I think I was getting caught up reading all these posts and articles..... I need to keep it simple. I am going to reset the motor to TDC and do as you and Joe advised.
Here are a few pictures of the progress. I put the seats back in. I plan on laying in some dynamat/pad and then the carpet but I will be doing that once we move in the next month. My main goal is to get it running and drivable, and I am very close. Hopefully by the end of next weekend I will have some video of the car running. Stay tuned.....
Looks awesome, did you run your trans lines up and over the wheel well? Is your carb a 2 or 4 corner A/F mixture screw setup? The simplest way to setup your timing is 34-36 degrees @ 3000 rpm. Double check after you set it, that it does not advance anymore after that. Once you do that make a note to what the setting winds up to be at idle. How did you lock out your vac advance? I just disconnect and put a rubber cap on it to keep the dirt out. Are you not running a PCV?
Looks awesome, did you run your trans lines up and over the wheel well?
Thanks Eric, I did run my lines up and over the wheel well. I got the idea from you! I had a buddy who works in a hose shop make me some steel braided lines.
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Is your carb a 2 or 4 corner A/F mixture screw setup?
The Quickfuel HR-780-VS is a 4 corner A/F mixture setup. So far I am very happy with the Quickfuel; however, I haven't had much play time with it yet.
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
The simplest way to setup your timing is 34-36 degrees @ 3000 rpm. Double check after you set it, that it does not advance anymore after that. Once you do that make a note to what the setting winds up to be at idle.
Thanks for the setup tip, I will for sure make note of it.
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
How did you lock out your vac advance? I just disconnect and put a rubber cap on it to keep the dirt out.
The MSD Ready to Run dist. comes with a lock out tab that gets secured in the vac canisters place.
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Are you not running a PCV?
I am not running a PCV. I did a search to see the pros and cons of not running one and didn't come up with to much info. Do you think I should be running one?
A PCV will keep the block from building pressure and also evacuate unwanted gases that may get in there. Without it you may notice some oil vapor build up or an actual puddle around the breathers, oil fill tube, etc... I think its a good idea for the street.
A PCV will keep the block from building pressure and also evacuate unwanted gases that may get in there. Without it you may notice some oil vapor build up or an actual puddle around the breathers, oil fill tube, etc... I think its a good idea for the street.
A PCV will keep the block from building pressure and also evacuate unwanted gases that may get in there. Without it you may notice some oil vapor build up or an actual puddle around the breathers, oil fill tube, etc... I think its a good idea for the street.
He does have breathers on both valve covers, which will alleviate any pressure that may occur. With a new build, there should be very little initially anyway.......
Tonight after work I reset the motor to TDC and reinstalled the distributor as advised. I slightly advanced the distributor and tried to start the motor...... It fired right up! I was able to dial in the timing right in. I have it set at 18* initial and my mechanical is set to 18*. At 3K I am dead on 36*. I still need to fine tune the carb but it was running a million times better then this past weekend. I owe a big thank you to Joe, Eric and Dan; I appreciate your insight into my previous issues. Your recommendations seemed to really make a big difference. I shot some video tonight, I apologize for the poor lighting and quality. I think it is running a little rich because I have a little backfire when I slam on the fun pedal, you can hear it at the end of the video. I will be playing with it more over the weekend.
Cool! Idle seems a little high now and possibly it is not rich but a little lean and your base timing could possible go a little more advanced. Yes its all about playing with stuff and narrowing things down...
Set your idle to about 750. Sounds awesome, you may be able to advance the timing 2 more degrees. Once you get the engine sorted out you'll want to hook up your vacuum advance. I'd limit it to 10 degrees and you should be happy there.
Thanks Joe/Eric.... I will take your advice on the timing and the a/f mixture. I am pretty stoked that it is firing right up and sounding pretty good. I hope to have some better video after the weekend. Thanks again guys.
Well its been a long unproductive week in trying to dial in the motor. I spent about 3 or 4 nights fixing miscellaneous leaks from brake lines and the transmission. I still wasn't able to tune the carb so that it wouldn't backfire through the carb and the exhaust. I went back today to mess with it again with no luck. I was heated and decided to pack it in...... well something told me to check something I should have checked right off the bat, my ignition wires! I had two of them mixed up, what a bonehead. After switching them it fired right up and I was able to get her dialed in pretty good. I still have more tweaking to do but she sounds awesome and is one hell of a torque monster.... I took some videos, first one is of the car at idle, the other is my first trip on the road. Sorry about the crapy reflection of my license plate.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hL0neViLtHI
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qR4yr0jQHbk
Last edited by DLaz70OLDS98; April 4th, 2015 at 04:22 PM.
It has been some time since I went back to this thread but figured now would be a fantastic time since I am getting involved in some pretty big projects on the old girl.
I decided earlier this year that I wanted to convert over to a manual transmission. I landed on the Tremec TKX 5 speed. I sourced the transmission and conversion package from Silver Sport Transmission. This was a super smooth transaction with the team over there. I upgraded the package and am going with the hydraulic throughout bearing instead of the linkage setup. Unfortunately, this project has sent me down a much larger rabbit hole than I anticipated.
I was fully aware I needed to pull the engine so that I could remove the crank to have it machined for the pilot bearing. What I was not anticipating was the unusual wear pattern on the main/connecting rod bearings after only approximately 1500 miles of use after the original build in 2013. I got some great feedback from a few members here and took the crank/block to the machine shop to have both checked out. Fortunately both are fine, and it seems that it is a clearance and balance issue. The shop is going to grind and polish the crank as well as hone the cylinders. They are a bit backed up and have about a 4 week lead time.
I decided that since I am rebuilding the engine again I would reevaluate previous components, specifically the cam. I am currently trying to figure out what would work best for my use and the engine. I am extremely green in the subject so I've been trying to educate myself. Not sure I am doing a good job because I am still clueless as heck! I am leaning towards handing the rebuild over to an engine builder who specializes in Oldsmobile. The local shop I am working with is really good, but they are not overly familiar with Oldsmobile.
Since the engine work is going to take some time I decided I would start installing parts of the manual transmission conversion that I could, pedals, master cylinder, etc. I currently have a clearance issue with the clutch pedal and the flasher fuse.
I am reaching out to Silver Sport today. I am not confident I was sent the correct pedal assembly for a 1967 Cutlass. Not sure if anyone here who has a 67 manual transmission. Can snap a few pictures of thier pedals to help me out.
I will also be tackling some issues with the brake lines. The line that runs from the master to the passenger side was ***** and runs waynto close to the header. I had purchased a line set from Inline Tube. I've been speaking to them to get a bit of feedback.
As you can see I am deep in it now so I'll be posting a bit more!
Last edited by DLaz70OLDS98; July 13th, 2023 at 05:26 AM.
My brake line from classic tube crossed over the crossmember below the motor mount to the front and then up.I believe big block cars had it that way because of getting to close to drivers side exhaust manifold outlet.
My brake line from classic tube crossed over the crossmember below the motor mount to the front and then up.I believe big block cars had it that way because of getting to close to drivers side exhaust manifold outlet.
I saw that in the assembly manual and raised that to the gents at ILT. I got no response other than this is normal, we have no other versions and no one has ever had an issue before.... I just spoke with Classic Tube and what a different story over there! I have to send them over some information so they can work up pricing.
I have another issue with one of the other lines from ILT.
This is the rear line that comes off the back of the proportion valve and connects to the long run that feeds the rear. After seeing this picture the ILT tech said there is nothing wrong. I understand that these line sets will need some massaging but this one is just to dang long.
January 25th, 2015, 06:47 PM
