I figured that I would start a build thread for my 1967 Cutlass Supreme “make over”. My plans with this build include swapping out the 330 for 455, install a th400 with a Hurst V shifter, replace the body bushings, complete front and rear suspension, floor pan repairs, brake and fuel lines, Oh yeah and a lot of MAWs I’m sure.

I picked up the CS from Dan (67Olds442X2) in late November. Over the past month or so I’ve started to disassemble the old girl. All the body bushings are totally shot or completely gone. There is some rot in the driver side floor pan and the floor brace ends are shot on the front and middle ones. The front fenders will need some patches behind the wheels as they have been bondoed pretty good.

I know you guys love pictures so I have included some.

 

Some more shots after I removed the front clip and of the rot in the floor. At some point someone made some repairs in the truck with some fiberglass. I will be cutting that out and patching it.

 

I cleaned up the inner fenders and after a little dolly and hammer work they are looking pretty good. I am going to hit them with some POR 15.

 

Well it doesn't look really bad. It will be a fun car with a BB. Your rear is probably a 3:08 open.

 

Nice to see someone else struggling with a 67! Misery loves company they say! Actually I enjoy this stuff and every bit of progress gives satisfaction. I wish you fun and good times with your 67. Keep the progress and pictures coming.

 

Lol. Thanks Joe. I will be sure to keep you all posted.

Thanks for the info Eric.

 

That was a good looking car that I wish was closer and I had $$$ to take home. Its good she went to a loving home. Have fun!

 

What do you mean "was" . Thanks Magna. I fell in love with the car as soon as I laid eyes on it. Ill be sure to keep posting my progress.

 

Great thread....I a watching it close :P

Any window channel rot on your car?

 

The previous owner made some repairs to the lower front windshield area. The rear windshield looks good but will require Further investigation.

 

Mine has some nasty rot....that is what led to that water breach that rotted the
inside floor and the trunk floor...yep, both windows...bummer too.

 

I'll be following along also
Now I'm knee deep into my corvette.

 

Im up here in the salt belt so I beleive that is where most of the rot I see came from.

 

Hey Dan! I'm glad that you have a project to work on and I am glad you will be following this build.

 

Ill be following too, just finished the dash on my 67. Looks pretty good. Hope to build a rotisserie soon so i can do the body and frame. Motor and suspension are done.

 

Awesome! That is what I love to see, love for the 67!

 

Love that color great looking car....I laughed out loud on your maw comment tis true they pop up but to know it and continue that is bravery lol

 

Thanks Eddie, I really like the color too, Burgundy Mist. I am not sure about bravery probably more like stupidity. lol.

 

This cold snowy weather is really slowing down my productivity. So I've been reduced to sand blasting parts and packing them away when it's warmer out so I can paint them. I am hoping to pull the motor and trans out next weekend. I will be mothballing the 330 on the shelf. I have my 455 all built and ready to go but not until I have my long laundry list of other little projects done.

I was out in the garage yesterday and was looking over the break system. This car was originally drum/drum. At some point someone was kind enough to upgrade the front to disc. . They installed an SSBC master cylinder, unnamed single calipers, unnamed caliper brackets and what I believe to be GM disc spindles. The break lines are looking a little cruddy so I figured now is the time to swamp them out for a nose new SS set from Inline Tube. All the reading I have done on this conversion indicates that if you originally had the drum/drum system you need to install a proportioning valve directly under the master if you do not have a hold back valve installed in the line. I looked over the entire line and all I have is the D block bolted to the frame under the master cylinder. My question is:
#1 how did the break system work with out the hold back valve? (I thought the back breaks would have been blown out because of this set up)

#2 As I have read, I will be required to either install a proportioning valve or install a new D block with a hold back valve in the system, correct?

My instincts tell me to buy a proportioning valve and the SS conversion break line set and be done but I am curious what I got going on over here! As always I appreciate anyone's and everyone's feedback/insight!

I will post a few pictures of some of the cleaned up parts later tonight, sorry nothing to exciting.

 

Today I worked on prepping the motor and trans to be pulled next weekend. I disconnected all wires, lines/tubing and the exhaust. I took the air cleaner off for the first time and found a surprise that I never could have imagined! Look! Yup Whoppers! Five to be exact, maybe someone thought I would be hungry when I was tearing the car down. ROFL!

 

Those darn mice...

 

Usually you would expect to find acorns or something along those lines notWhoppers. I am hopping this is the biggest surprise I find.

 

I made some good progress this weekend. I was able to pull the motor and trans out of the car. I was also able to deal will all of the body mounts. I have one nut that is spinning and that is the very back one on the driver’s side. I will cut the bolt and worry about it after I pull the frame out of the way. The four body mounts located directly under the front doors and just behind the doors are completely gone and the frame has a little rot. I will just get some washers and weld them in place to repair this. The two located directly after the axle that are located on the bracket that is welded to the frame are also slightly rotted as well and will require some washers welded in place. I am expecting more things to pop out once I lift the body.


I have a few more items I need to disconnect before I lift the body. I need to disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder, disconnect the E-brake, and disconnect the fuel line from the tank. I do have a question, do I need to remove the fuel tank before I remove the body or is it solely secured to the body?


Here is a few pictures of the progress

 

Nice progress, the tank has wires attached for sender and hose connections but it is only secured by 2 straps that are attached to mounts on the body. It comes out pretty easy if empty and you are gonna remove it anyway so ya may as well remove it 1st and check for build sheet under there if it is not a Lansing car.

 

Thanks for the info Joe. I guess you are right now is the time to drop the tank. It is a Lansing car so I don't suspect a build sheet.

 

Drew,

Don't drop it too hard and have some PB Blaster ready, I've been under there a few times and seen those straps. By the way I lost a couple whoppers that I can't find along with a few other things which I can't remember. All kidding aside, looks like your having fun. Don't know if you have the interior apart or not but I didn't find any paperwork when I had the interior apart to replace the rear package tray. Anyway, my corvette is getting a makeover, hoping to have it and my 442 ready for next year.

Dan

 

Dan I can ship your lost whoppers back down to you, but any money I find its mine!!!! I am going to start spraying down the bolts each night and try to drop it in the next week or so. I have not taken out the interior yet but that will be coming shortly. I wasn't expecting to come across a build sheet since it is a Lancing car. I look forward to seeing that 442 back on the road, that car is one bad son of b@*$h.

 

Nice progress drew glad those were whoppers and not mice nads
Cuz u know those would have been left by the missus mice once they found out their husbands were playing with Old cars again lol .

Seriously nice progress and enjoying your thread

 

Lol. Thanks Eddie. Trying to keep the momentum going.

 

Nice progress!

 

Thanks Eric. I hope to have some More updates in the next 2 weeks. I'm stuck helping the in laws with moving this weekend.

 

Glad to see another Olds fan is trudging on with a build through a nasty N.E. Winter. I am really enjoying your thread as I am tearing through my '66 build, it looks like it's going well. I didn't realize that build sheets are not typically found in Lansing cars, but it explains why I have not found it yet.

Good luck with your project.

 

Drew I hope your in laws are heading south 13 degrees at exit 9 this am lol... they say it is going to get colder and colder. Heck of a weekend to move furniture and stuff....

Larry my car is Lansing built and I scoured every inch including top of tank behind the seats nothing I wonder why , that was with Lansing cars?

Anyway good luck with your build too,

 

thanks Larry, I've been enjoying yours as well. Yes this winter has made it very difficult to really get much done. Hopefully in the next few weeks we start to get some normal temperatures and NO MORE SNOW!

 

Eddie actually they had a house in Little Egg Harbor that they just recently sold. Now we get to go do the grunt work. The things we do to keep our wives from nagging us.

 

I hear you and as they usually live longer , I guess you can call it nagging, tagging and bagging

Someone said 3-6 inches more for Monday? Gotta laugh right

 

Let me know if I can help with a restoration for your Instrument Panel.I have plenty of Orphan cores .Ron

 

What else can we do but laugh. I just heard it is going to be 6 to 12 inches starting on Sunday. We should be thawed out by August. Lol

 

Thanks Ron. I'll keep you in mind. I've seen some of your work on CO, nice work.

 

Well I haven’t made much progress in the garage but I haveordered some much needed parts for the project. I ordered a new set of stainless steel brake lines, proportioning valveand a 3/8 stainless steel fuel line from Inline tube. I received an order from OPGI which had allmy suspension/front end parts. Inaddition I got my new Prothane polyurethane body bushing kit 7-121-BL. I was looking at the body bushing kit and Iam slightly confused with the layout. Iknow that originally on the car there are two solid pucks/side that are “pressed”into the frame (one before the rear axle arch and one on top of the arch). However, my kit does not include these. The instructions also show the bolts beinginstalled from above rather than from underneath. I am wondering if I should just return thekit and get the rubber one from either Inline to OPGI. Has anyone ever used the Prothane kit before